Crank broken at flex plate...

[kingsly]

So I had the worst Saturday.

Next steps toward my engine swap and was prepping to bench start the 6.2
Ran out to grab an oil filter and on the way back the Range Rover overheated dramatically (stuck t-stat). Nursed it back to the house and while my friend drained the coolant I kept working on the diesel. My flex plate came from eBay with a little bag of bolts. Being naïve to the 6.2 I didn't notice they were flywheel bolts.

Breaking the golden rule of "don't force it" (mental state notwithstanding) I wrenched down on the flex plate, and, not noticing the bolts were contacting the rear of the block, managed to crack the mounting ear on the crank and strip a few of the bolt holes.

SO I'm imagining this engine is toast aside from a bottom end rebuild with a new crank? At that point, I'd rather just find another 6.2 or ideal a 6.5 with serp setup.
Any ideas? I'm at wits end...


Bummed doesn't even begin to describe how I feel. I've spent months going through this engine, cleaning, painting, checking and rechecking, all while slowly draining a limited budget. Headed down to Los Angeles the end of July for our baby shower and was kind of relying on this swap to be completed over the next week to drive it down! All undone in 30 seconds. :o

[Robyn]

All is not lost

If the engine was a good runner another crank can be fitted without tearing the entire engine apart.

Get the engine on a stand and upside down.

Remove the timing cover and the pan.

Get the timing gears and chain off.

MARK ALL ROD CAPS ON THE OUTSIDE FACING BOSS AREA AT THE SPLIT LINE

Remove all rod caps and shove the piston/rod assemblies up into the cylinders

PLACE A SHORT CHUNK OF RUBBER GAS HOSE OVER THE ROD BOLTS TO PROTECT THE CRANK FROM GETTING DINGED UP

MARK ALL BEARING SHELLS (BAG THEM IN A BAGGY) AS TO WHERE THEY CAME FROM (UPPER OR LOWER SHELL AND WHICH ROD)

Remove the main caps and mark and bag the bearings to go back EXACTLY WHERE THEY WERE.

Lift the crank out.

Get a good used crank and make sure the journals are the same size.

Replace the rear main seal, replace the crank, bearings and such in reverse order.

If budget permits, new bearings would be advisable.

This is an afternoon job if you have a crank standing by.

Good luck

[kingsly]

Thank you! You've been incredibly helpful on this and my transmission questions, and I really appreciate it!

Since you're somewhat local, do you have any good leads to suggest for sourcing a crank or engine?


My block has a lot of good things going for it - just under 100k, J code, seems very well cared for.
But it also has some bad. I had to repair a cracked starter ear (very slowly, backstitched weld with Ni-rod) and there were the beginnings of some main web cracks in the usual places.
I did a bunch of research on it and couldn't actual find compelling evidence that the webs simply grenade in N/A light duty applications. Obviously if I intended to turbo or something it would be a different story. So I decided to just leave it alone and move forward.

But as the "issues" compound I'm questioning myself. Worth replacing the crank at this point? Unless I can find an inexpensive engine locally (no luck on craigslist or eBay) I might not have a choice...

Also need to find a serp water pump and backing plate so I can keep my Land Rover serp accessories. :o

[Robyn]

With cracked main webs and a starter mounting pad with issues I would shop for another engine.

The main cracks can be repaired, but coupled with a sketchy starter mount, ahhhh not so much.

Buying a used engine can be a challenge.

Craigs list, local U pull it yard

A 6.5 will go right in its place with minimal bother.

I have sound early 6.2 block that's had the mains all repaired with lock and stitch.
will need some other work but its a good foundation.