won't start

[tbeavers]

I have been working on this truck for all most a week I pulled the old exhaust off and put 4inch on it the truck is a 82 chevy with the 6.2 in it I put the new exhaust on it and started it it ran fine then died I thought I ran out of fuel so I looked it up did what I just really don't know what to now everyone said I filled the filters and bleed the injectors iv been bleeding the injectors for about a week I work on it about 5 hours a day and it will only start then die and it looks like I'm getting good fuel to all my injectors then someone told me maybe the exhaust is too big might need to turn up the fuel any thoughts on this it's driving me crazy it ran great befor this I really don't know what to do now and now it seams like I'm some how getting fuel to my injectors but when I crack the outlet line on my filter nuthing comes out

[joeq]

I've had my 83 C-30 for over 20 years, and "most" of the time, the reason is no fuel. Why? Bad lift pump, or bad electric pump, Bad sending unit telling me I have fuel, when in reality, M/T. Bad tank switch, telling me I'm running on the right tank, when really it's the M/T LHS tank.
If it were mine, I'ld put a few gallons of fuel in a tank above your injection pump inlet and gravity feed it, and see if it starts. If so, then the trouble shooting begins. If not, maybe your IP is bad. Hope for the best, and good luck.

[tbeavers]

The thing that gets me is it drove fine in the shop and when I went to pull it out it started all of this I just didn't know if the bigger exhaust pipe maid a difference

[tbeavers]

Oh and I have fuel in my injector pump wouldnt it start and run off of it

[DmaxMaverick]

It should, if it's #2 Diesel. Make sure it isn't something else.

[tbeavers]

It will start and run off WD 40 but as soon as I stop it dies I just don't understand it at all

[Dvldog8793]

Is it possible that you pinched a fuel line during the exhaust work? As stated earlier, maybe run it from a different fuel source eliminating all the other fuel related possibilities.

Check the wire that goes to the top of the injection pump. Turn the key on(run position) and the disconnect the pink wire and you should hear or feel a click in the injection pump.

If both of those are good...
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the drain line and have someone get it going while you spray the WD and see what the fuel pressure is.

Exhaust size has NOTHING to do with this.

[tbeavers]

Not really cause I wasn't that close to any lines with it and when I unplug the wire there's no click or anything other than the wire sparks when I plug or unplug it in

[Dvldog8793]

With the key in run position if you don't hear a click when you disconnect the wire on the TOP of the IP then I would say the Fuel shut off solenoid is suspect. Check to make sure you are getting voltage to the wire.

[tbeavers]

Well like I said I know its got power to it because it sparks when I unplug it but I just put the tester to it to be safe and yes it has power but no click so it's that switch?

[AKMark]

Don't forget the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the block on the old 6.2's. They do fail

[tbeavers]

I pulled the like off of it and turned it over its pumps good fuel

[tbeavers]

Ok when I pull the pink wire off there's no click but it dose click with the green one and I'm getting good fuel

[tbeavers]

Does that meen its the ip

[Dvldog8793]

The Fuel shut off solenoid is the heavier pink wire that goes to a spade connector directly on top of the injection pump.
It should be getting 12v when the ignition switch is on.
If it is not getting 12v then you have a wiring issue some place.
If it is getting 12v and you cant hear it click or feel it click then you may have bad solenoid. It is not a real LOUD click but it should be audible and if you put your finger on the top cover of the pump you should be able to feel it engage.

[tbeavers]

There's no click with that one is the solenoid in the pump and is that something I can bye new

[tbeavers]

Is it normal for them just to quit like that? I meen it trys to start it just wont

[DmaxMaverick]

If you have fuel to the injectors, and it will run on WD40, make sure the "fuel" at the injectors is, in fact, fuel.

In regards to the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid), if it sparks when connecting it, it is getting power, and is completing the circuit. They can fail and short to ground, but it won't "spark" very many times before it blows a fuse or burns a wire.. Not all of them will click loudly, some will click very faintly, and some make no noise (but still work). Loosen a couple injector line nuts. If you crank the engine with the ESS disconnected, it should flow no fuel. If you crank the engine with power to the ESS and it weeps fuel, the ESS is working, and you have fuel to the injectors.

(assuming it ran fine before)
If you have fuel to the injectors, and it doesn't start/run, but will start/run while spraying WD40 into the intake, what you have at the injectors is not fuel. Verify what you have in the tank before trying anything else (as said in post #5).

[tbeavers]

I put normal fule like u buy at the store in there green desiel

[tbeavers]

I suppose I could have go bad fuel I got some at a little store by my house and some at Walmart that would make sense cause I have fuel to the injectors and it trys really hard to start

[tbeavers]

Is it normal for my 2nd filter to have pressure on it

[Dvldog8793]

If you have fuel to the injectors then it is not the ESS. There is a pretty specific way of changing the fuel filters for your truck. They only used the two filter system for 2 years. Do a search on this web sight and make sure you don't have an airlocked fuel system. It might get enough fuel to show at an injector but not to run/start the engine.
Possible that you got a load of bad fuel, we just had local station that had their bulk tank filled with gasoline. But if you said it ran fine before you brought it in the shop, then it should be something that occurred in the shop. Something you did or a component that failed while sitting in your shop.

[DmaxMaverick]

Is it normal for my 2nd filter to have pressure on it

Yes, it is normal. The 1st filter is before the lift pump (suction), the 2nd filter is after the lift pump (pressure). If the 1st filter isn't completely sealed, it will suck air into the system.

If you added fuel between the times it ran then didn't, I'd suspect the fuel, first. If the contamination is gasoline, there must be a LOT of it. If it will start on WD40, it should continue to run on 50% gas/Diesel or better. Higher concentrations of gas will run rougher, but it should still run. Water or "other" contamination, not so much.

[tbeavers]

Well my fuel gage dosent work I thought that I'd just ran out cause like I said I pulled it in welded everything up and went to back out all in the same day when backing out it started up fine then died I pulled both filters witch are the spin ons filed them up and put fuel in it and nuthing so I went to bleeding injectors. ...... but last night I did see that the 2nd filter was bubbleling when I was trying to start it so it could be sucking as much air in as I'm trying to get out

[Dvldog8793]

Sounds like you found a problem, hopefully it is THE problem. Make sure both filters have a good tight seal. If It was my vehicle and I was going to keep it, I would switch to a single filter set up.
Good Luck!

[tbeavers]

Thanks for all the help and about the single filter setup do I just by pass the 2nd filter

[Dvldog8793]

That's what was done on my truck. It is probably sufficient but not ideal. There are some really good Racor filter systems.

[tbeavers]

Couldnt I just take that filter off and hook the to lines together

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't bypass the filters, replace both with a new(er) design, or at least the 6.5L (FM100) assembly. Racor is a good brand, with lots of options available, such as heater, primer pump (starter saver), life indicator, clear bowl (better than the WIF lamp), etc. The best part is, they aren't that costly, and can use industry standard filter elements that can be found in any parts store for a lot less than the OEM type filters. With an on-board primer pump, you don't have to pre-fill the element, which risks contamination, and you don't have to crank the engine to prime.

[tbeavers]

Ok now could someone please explain how glow plugs work when I turn on the key what should they do should they keep heating up the hole time or kick on and off I'm only asking because now it won't do anything it won't try to start or anything and after trying to start it I pulled the glow pull out it wasn't hot so I figured I'd plug it in and see if it would get hot and after about 5 minutes it was warm but I could still grab it

[DmaxMaverick]

Glow plugs are plugs that glow. With power to them, they will heat until they are hot enough to glow the metal. If you can still handle it, it ain't glowing, and ain't doing you any good. Bad plug(s). Normally, a glow cycle should give a 6-10 second glow cycle, then cycle on/off after a start for a few cycles, all depending on the ambient temp, and the engine/coolant temp. A key off/on will repeat the cycle. If you are bypassing the GP controller, you may have burned them out. If you are able to remove them, you are ahead of the game. Original GP's (AC9G) will often swell at the tip, making removal very difficult. Replace them with AC60G or Quick Heat plugs (neither will swell). I use Kennedy Quick Heat plugs, which heat very quickly, and I have yet to fail one. AC60G plugs will require a longer cycle to provide similar heat. Before I found the Kennedy Quick Heat plugs, I liked AC11G. They didn't last as long, but didn't swell when they failed. Stay away from the "common" brands, such as Autolite or Champion, if at all possible. No Ebay junk, either. I've heard Bosch Duraterm are good, but I haven't tried them myself.

[Dvldog8793]

There is a TDP article that details a glow plug control update for the older trucks. Might be another worthwhile modification. I have had GREAT experiences with both the duraterm and the quick heats glow plugs. The 60gs are durable and don't swell but they do take longer to heat. I have used them and switched them out to faster plugs due to our cold temps(-40)
You can test glow plugs in the engine with a test light or an ohm meter. A GOOD plug should read pretty close to a short and a bad plug will read an open.
IMHO...If you have ONE bad, then I would replace them all with new. Use Copper never seize on the threads and connectors. Make sure your connectors and wires are in good condition and not heat damaged.

Do you still have air bubbles or did that problem get fixed?

[tbeavers]

Thanks for the help and I'm un sure about the air bubble cause befor it would try to start and now it won't start of wd40or try on its own that's what got me thinking glow plugs

[DmaxMaverick]

Plug in the heater for a few hours and eliminate that as an issue. It should start easily with minimal GP heat, as long as it isn't ridiculously cold.

If you have air contamination, you'll be stuck there with no hope of success. Confirm that fixed before proceeding.

[tbeavers]

The heaters just a block heater not a glow plug heater right

[DmaxMaverick]

Yes. It heats the coolant from the bottom of the block. The heating element is located on the driver/left side of the block, in a freeze plug hole. If you've never used it, or it's been a while, be sure to carefully inspect the cord and AC plug. They deteriorate over time, and can cause issues (such as a fire) if they need replacement.

[tbeavers]

How do i get a stuck glow plug out

[DmaxMaverick]

Soak it with WD40 (or something) and twist-tug-twist-tug. Try to not break it. Most of the time, they will come out. If it doesn't, remove that injector. Plug the pre-cup flash hole with something (I use a tightly rolled piece of innertube-don't let it fall into the cylinder). Break off the plug, poke it into the pre-cup, and blast shop air through the GP hole (wear eye protection), or use a shop-vac through the injector hole. That usually does it. Make sure all the pieces are out. Replace the injector and the GP. Done.

[krazni1]

About 3 months ago I bought an '82 GMC with the 6.2l engine. I am TOTALLY new to diesel, but my new baby came with a Haynes Techbook #10330 (1736) which is very specific to GM and Ford light diesel engines.

I have found this manual to be indispensable in working on the truck, and would highly recommend it for anyone who, like me, is new to this realm of mechanics.