Can the heads be pulled for new gaskets and head studs while engine is in the truck?

[JKlein]

I am @ 200K miles on my K3500 Crew Cab LWB Dually and was just going to replace the injectors and glow plugs (I got the truck with around187K miles and do not know how old the injectors are.

So I posted here and there asking about all kinds of upgrades I wanted to do including 4" exhaust, cold air intake, new turbo, programmed ECM, upgraded cooling system etc... The most consistent feedback was why do all that if you are not installing some new & fresh head gaskets and/or head studs.

Which made me take pause. Now I am curious can the heads be pulled while the engine is still in the truck (I will of course dissamemble everything to get it to that point)? And if so how difficult to install the head studs (ARP) with block in truck. I have heard that the passenger side rear will be a bugger.

The truck will be inside my garage away from the weather and I can take my time with it.

Just looking for some honest feedback please. I appreciate your time.

Thank you,

~GOD BLESS~

john
wrenchin' for 30+ years (mostly on gas engines only about 5 years on diesels)

[guyina4x4]

I just did mine, in truck, not too bad, took a lot of time.

I didn't do studs, just new bolts, couldn't see spending the money on the studs on an engine with 232k miles.

I don't think i'd change them unless they need it.
unless your planning some big mods.

[DmaxMaverick]

Head gaskets on Diesel engines are (generally) considered consumable. The 250K mile range is a good marker for replacement.

Head studs may be a good idea, if you have a need for them (high performance intentions), or intend to routinely pull the heads. The OEM-type TTY head bolts are not reusable, and must be replaced after one use. Studs can be installed with the block in the truck, but getting the threads sealed is difficult (the threads pass through to the coolant jacket). Very tedious and labor intense, but not impossible. I've done both, and studs require a lot more time and effort. Just make a diligent effort to seal the studs at both ends. In some trucks, the engine mounts need to be removed and engine lowered to get the passenger side head lined up. Plan on doing this long before reaching that step. Engine R/R only adds a day of effort, for a DIY'er.

[JKlein]

Thank you both for the feedback. It sounds like it takes time and patience and creative solutions like removing the motor mount bolts etc...

At this point I am planning on doing the following mods:

• Cold Air intake (haven’t decided on which one as of yet)
• Full exhaust change: from turbo into 4” downpipe then 4” out the back with 2.5” crossover
• Cooling upgrade ( I want the full kit that includes fan & clutch upgrade – but haven’t decided if it is best to keep the single thermostat set up I have or go to the dual stat’ set up)
• New upper, lower, crossover hose and any other hose I can see that needs replacement
• New quality hose clamps
• New serpentine belt tensioner & new belt (haven’t decided on which belt yet)
• New harmonic balancer and harmonic balancer pulley
• New vacuum pump – the one the truck now is dead and I bought the new one a few months back
• I bought a new turbo for a 97 ‘Burb that I had but it did not need it. So I would like to put that on the 3500 since it has been run with no vacuum for a long time.
• Gauges: boost & pyrometer An a-pillar dual gauge mount painted to match interior
• Performance programed ECM (Looking at Heath Diesel for that)
• Considering the Turbo Master for boost control and just leaving the vacuum pump unplugged
• Considering the Merlin Injector pump from Heath Diesel
• Considering the performance camshaft from Heath Diesel
• Considering the Super 8 Performance Turbo (from Heath Diesel)
• New or quality remained injectors and lines
• Bosch Duraterm glow plugs
• New glow plug relay
• AC Delco lift pump
• New OPS
• Addition of a remote fuel filter (currently considering one that Heath Diesel sells)
• ARP head studs or replacement of factory torque to yield head bolts – I need to research this and find out more, however, I am leaning towards the head studs for now)
• New Fel-Pro head gaskets and other needed gaskets sets (buy locally)
• Will check the timing chain while in there to see if in spec for a used chain & replace if needed
• Will use existing radiator with a good flush and fin cleaning
• Either replace the oil cooler lines with new ones from SS Diesel Supply or get the Blue Ribbon oil cooler kit from Heath Diesel
• New rear and front HD shocks
• New dually simulators for the truck rims

I am probably forgetting something – but this list should give you an idea of what I want to accomplish. The truck runs great now – I have never had the oil tested as of yet.

I also need to replace the snap in connector that comes off of the coolant Passover and connects to the coolant line that runs along the passenger side of the intake manifold (dripping on me now).

As for what I use the truck for – it has a Knapheide Utility bed on the truck. I don’t have a welder or compressor mounted – just tools and roadside emergency equipment. The truck is a 4X4 but I don’t use that much. Daily commute to work is 35 miles of mostly highway. I am looking to gain performance and increase durability for the remaining life of the bottom end. I do not tow much, however, we have a few small 17’ aluminum boats that I might tow a few miles to the lake. I could see the occasional renting of a bobcat or small backhoe to maintain my gravel driveway. But towing heavy loads would be rare.

I have 30+ years of wrenching experience – but only the last 5 years on diesels. I started with a Powerstroke 7.3 then totaled that and went to the 97 ‘Burb with the 6.5 and then the 96 K3500 I have now. I did buy the three volumes of the 6.5 tech book sold here along with the Trouble shooting manual/tech guide book.

So I am open to any and all suggestions about what to do and what not to do.

I appreciate everyone’s time.

Let me know what you think please.

~GOD BLESS~
John

[Kennedy]

I think a lot depends on how good your ribs and back are. That and rust conditions. My preference is to pull the engine and work on an engine stand. Much easier to work on and get things clean and done right. A lot easier if you have to deal with rusty bolts etc.

That said I did my 1984 6.2 in chassis. I was a lot younger then...

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Personally I would pull the engine, it's not that bad and will save you back and allot knuckle skin.
If you pull the engine you will want to take the radiator out get it cleaned professionally. Clean out the AC in front it.
Also IMHO-
- replace the timing set.
- go with dual stats.
- go with the better oil cooler lines.
- If you go with the turbomaster then you do not need the vac pump. get rid of it and use a shorter belt. I have the number if you go that route.
- 4 inch down pipe might hit the frame and fire wall so you might have to modify the pipe of the firewall.

Just some ideas..
good luck!
Keep us posted....

[phantom309]

I did gaskets and studs on my 94 dually,.

I had to set the pass side head down onto the block with the last lowest stud,..I held the stud in the head with some masking tape,
Then installed all the other studs after,.



I also left the exhaust manifold on the pass side too,. because the bolts were nasty corroded,.i used an engine hoist,.

drivers side i man handled into place,.i think it has one stud issue too,.

IF!! i do another headgasket job on a 6.5,. the motor will be coming out,.

crawling over that damn front end about 50 times got pretty annoying, and very tiring,.

yrmv,..

[Kennedy]

If memory serves, I slung my 6.5 into position with the manifolds in place, turbo off for balance. Pretty sure I installed the crossover after the fact.

Plane the manifolds flat while they are off. There's not a ton of mating surface and they warp and corrode quite a bit.

[JKlein]

I am all for pulling the motor. The main reason I wanted to ask if it could be done is that with the truck in my basement it will be a tight fit and might run into some issues working the shop crane around to get the engine out. Probably can be done need to do some measuring this weekend to be for sure.

Or I can pull the truck right up to the garage that is on our main level (as opposed to having it in the basement) and work on it in the drive way then when it is time to pull the engine I can pull it out and set it on the engine stand and do all the work to the engine with it inside the upstairs garage.... Hmm... That does mean kickin my wife and her car out of her inside spot though...... And actual work on the truck would be weather based where as if it is downstairs it will be completely inside.


Thank you all.

~GOD BLESS~

john

[More Power]

When considering performance mods for the 6.5, insist that the vendor provides dyno results (independent results even better). Seems 6.5 owners are not as picky as Duramax/Cummins/Powerstroke owners when buying performance mods. Six-five owners don't seem to want proof of ad claims - don't want to see the numbers...

[Kennedy]

I built a push bar years ago. I used about a 8' length of 3" square tube and welded a 2" trailer coupler on either end. With this I can do a ball to ball push/pull to move disabled vehicles provided they have a hitch installed.


Adding to MP's comments it also seems that catchy new trade names seem to add intrigue mystique to product lines making them sound extra special.

P.S. I'd really like to see a 425HP 6.5 with basic bolt on parts :rolleyes: This would take some sort of special wizardry in my opinion.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
IMHO...
The pump and injectors and turbo are pretty decent in factory configuration. I have tried both a "tuned up" DS4 and a regular rebuild from my local source. Both were same performance, no noticeable difference except in my wallet weight.

Same for injectors, GOOD quality factory spec injectors will do pretty good for most apps.

The Turbo is something that I don't have allot of experience with but I know that my last truck with a GM8 did everything I wanted it to do.

I have not heard of much difference for street driven trucks with the different cams, I don't think diesels respond to cam changes as drastic as gassers do.

A good quality head rebuild with port matching will probably make a bigger difference than a cam.

Gear drive for the timing set is good upgrade, there is info on this sight about that.

FYI- My last truck was dyno at 296HP. It was a 2003 AMG long block with Gear drive, rebuilt factory spec IP and bosch injectors with LARGE open exhaust and air intake, Intercooled, GM8 turbo turned up, Heath Turbomaster and ECM, vac delete. This engine ran GREAT right up till the Crank split in half at 130,000 miles. I am not sure what a person would need to do to get a 6.5 north of real 400HP. I really don't think it is possible with "bolt on" goodies.

Hope this helps!!!

[JKlein]

Thank you for all the info and tips. I agree that claims without proof are just that - claims. I am considering possibly skipping some of the upgrades and just going a little less on the $$ outlay.

Good point about a cam in a diesel not reacting like placing one in a gasser. I am new to diesels (well about 4+ years) and to date have not built one from the ground up yet.

I also agree that good quality injectors are a must. The Merlin IP has me thinking hard since it costs a pretty penny and the truck supposedly had its replaced only 30K ago. Might hold off on that until I need a new IP.

Thank you for all the tips and info it is a big help in deciding what I want to do and how to tackle it best.

~GOD BLESS~

john

[phantom309]

T

~GOD BLESS~

john

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