EGR Delete

[benaustic]

Just dropped a new-to-me 6.5 into my 1996 project. Finishing up the wiring, air intake, etc... when I noticed my old air intake has NO EGR. I see a few threads about deleting the EGR, but I don't see much tech info.

So, can I just put 'er together sans EGR and leave that harness unplugged? Will the computer be unhappy? Should I find an EGR valve to put in?

Also, I have a Heath Diesel spring-tension wastegate actuator to replace the vacuum one. Vacuum actuator is currently installed. Would you leave the factory actuator or go with the Heath?

[benaustic]

As I finish up, I have another question...

Fuel pump Timing: The Haynes Repair book says that pump timing must be done by dealer. How difficult is it, really? What is required?

[phantom309]

switch intakes,..

if you haven't disturbed the pump,.timing should be ok,.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
IMHO- use the heath control and lose the vacumm pump, you can get ride of it and gain maybe 3 whole HPs!!!:D Every little bit counts and it's one less thing to potentially go wrong. I have two heath controls with over 200,000 on each and they work great. If you want to get ride of the vac pump I can get you the belt number to use.

Yes, get ride of the EGR system.

The IP offset timing is probably what the book is referring to. You need a high end OBDII diagnostic tool(not just a code scanner) to set the Offset. But as stated, if you left it alone and didn't do anything it should be fine.

Hope this helps!

[Kennedy]

The non EGR intake will block the flow of exhaust gasses from the heads. EGR issue solved IF the truck was non EGR to begin with.

As for mechanical wastegates, they have a purpose. Mechanical trucks and old farm trucks that are not worth fixing properly. As years go by 6.5 owners are beginning to realize that a mechanical gate system is nothing more than a glorified peak drive psi limiter. The 6.5 turbo is quite small to begin with and forcing all of the exhaust through the small turbine housing at all times below peak pressure is just not efficient. You may drive down the highway with 5psi boost and this seems cool, but you really only need say 1 psi depending on the load. MPG is then reduced.

[benaustic]

JK, I tend to agree with you about the EGR. They were intended to work this way, if tweaks are done they should probably be done through the computer.

My problem is this: this truck had all of the original 6.5 except the turbo ripped out and a 6.2 put back in its place when I bought it- fuel filter, air intake, alternator, air-conditioning... everything. Therefore, I don't have a good factory intake. So I bought an aftermarket hi-flow air box, went to install and realized- Dang! I don't have the EGR or charge air temp sensor (which explains two pigtails and no place to plug them in). The airbox is designed for reinstall of factory egr and has a port for the charge air temp sensor. Your advice is to get and install?

As for the pump timing: The engine I'm putting in is a 1995 6.5 that had a bad pump. I installed DB4 pump from a wrecked low-mile 2000 Express van along with new injectors. Won't I need to get timing set?

[Robyn]

If you are going to use the mechanical wastegate control, be sure to upgrade your ECM to a program that will not set a code and go to limp mode if the boost exceeds about 8 psi.

I have used a turbo master on the 6.5 for years and love it.

I have nothing good to say about the vacuum system, nothing at all.

The concept is great, but the realization is lacking.

As mentioned on the EGR.

The EGR literally dumps copious quantities of soot into the engine :(

Eliminating the valve will stop this mess.

The OBD2 will not know if the valve is gone as long as the control valve (if equipped is there and functioning)

I have torn 6.5's down that had EGR and the intakes were choked full of so much soot, carbon and junk.

If you don't have to subject your engine to this torture, DON'T.

[benaustic]

That's great! I'll leave the EGR off. I'll get a charge air intake temp sensor to fill the hole and have a place to plug the pigtail in.

I'm still undecided about the wastegate actuator. Vacuum is currently on it. I might leave it, see how it goes and switch out later.

You guys are AWESOME. I really appreciate the help!

[Kennedy]

JK, I tend to agree with you about the EGR. They were intended to work this way, if tweaks are done they should probably be done through the computer.

My problem is this: this truck had all of the original 6.5 except the turbo ripped out and a 6.2 put back in its place when I bought it- fuel filter, air intake, alternator, air-conditioning... everything. Therefore, I don't have a good factory intake. So I bought an aftermarket hi-flow air box, went to install and realized- Dang! I don't have the EGR or charge air temp sensor (which explains two pigtails and no place to plug them in). The airbox is designed for reinstall of factory egr and has a port for the charge air temp sensor. Your advice is to get and install?

As for the pump timing: The engine I'm putting in is a 1995 6.5 that had a bad pump. I installed DB4 pump from a wrecked low-mile 2000 Express van along with new injectors. Won't I need to get timing set?

When I referred to intake I meant the cast aluminum manifold. It blocks the exhaust flow if it is F series.

The only sensor in the air box is MAF sensor that the 97? up S engines had.

The IAT is a pipe threaded sensor that is in the upper plenum. The boost sensor bolts down and uses a grommet to seal.

[benaustic]

Hmmm. I have an F series engine. It's an S&B Cold Air Intake.

When we put the intake manifold and the cast aluminum intake pipe on I noticed that there was some un-used apparatus in the cavity, but I can't really remember what it looks like now. That's where the EGR is? The boost sensor is still like factory, as well as everything else on the intake manifold.

So the MAF sensor is what goes in line between the air filter and the turbo? That's the thing I don't have, but you say it's likely it never had one? So it's okay to plug the port on top of the air hose between the air filter and the turbo? I assume that's where the exhaust gas return was. I see some pictures on the internet with it plugged.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Sounds like you are referring to the CDR system...?
Do you have a tuna can size goldish colored can? It could be routed from a couple different places but the can part would be the same.

[benaustic]

Dvdog- I realized how stupid that question was as soon as I read your response. Yes, you're right, that's for the CDR. I don't have the EGR system at all, I guess. Thanks for being kind.

Just curious... EGR is Exhaust Gas Ricirc, right? I've seen EGR's on tractors and they very clearly pull exhaust back to the intake. I don't see where GM would get the exhaust back to the intake.

Thanks for everything. Ima go put crap together and see if it'll run.