attempting to start 83 Jimmy

[bone]

So I was trying to follow some instructions that a member gave me on starting my Jimmy up but I had no luck....so what I did was I drained out the 5year old biofuel from the fuel tank. Added 5 gallons of clear diesel. I changed out the primary fuel filter. Which was really nasty. It was clogged with some brown chocolaty stuff.

Then I pulled out all the glow plugs.(witch I still have them out) unplugged the ESS from the ejection pump. Then I disconnected the line that says out on ghe primary filter. And tryed cranking motor to purge fuel lines. Nothing came out........can anyone help....i posted some pictures on what the filter looked like and what line I disconnected to purge fuel system.

[Dvldog8793]

IMHO- if your filter looks like that I would consider the entire fuel system suspect. not sure what that stuff could be. Extreme water contamination or bio-growth....:mad: If the seal on the filter was not intact then water could have gotten in there and just rusted up that area.
I would start at the tank end and remove fittings and clear the lines one at a time. If it present in the lines close to the tank then you probably should inspect and clean or replace the tank.
Check the fuel pump lines and pump.
Clear the injector lines, if it is present in the lines then you have to assume that it got into the pump and injectors as well.

Good luck!

[DmaxMaverick]

Ugly! If I had seen that filter, I would have recommended NOT trying to purge the system using the fuel lift pump. The lines must be removed at every junction, and purged with fresh fuel, starting at the first line at the tank. You can use low pressure shop air to push fuel from the tank. If what comes out of the tank looks like that, the tank must be removed and cleaned, or it may need to be replaced. The tank sock is probably blocked, as well as the pick-up line. Unless you can isolate the contamination to the filter alone, I would replace the fuel lift pump, too (even if it works now, it won't for long). What did the fuel you removed from the tank look like?

I would also remove the IP fuel inlet line and purge it with fresh fuel. Unless someone tried to start it with that junk in the lines, I'd not suspect it contaminated the pump and injectors. If it did, the IP and injectors will need replacing.

[bone]

Ugly! If I had seen that filter, I would have recommended NOT trying to purge the system using the fuel lift pump. The lines must be removed at every junction, and purged with fresh fuel, starting at the first line at the tank. You can use low pressure shop air to push fuel from the tank. If what comes out of the tank looks like that, the tank must be removed and cleaned, or it may need to be replaced. The tank sock is probably blocked, as well as the pick-up line. Unless you can isolate the contamination to the filter alone, I would replace the fuel lift pump, too (even if it works now, it won't for long). What did the fuel you removed from the tank look like?

I would also remove the IP fuel inlet line and purge it with fresh fuel. Unless someone tried to start it with that junk in the lines, I'd not suspect it contaminated the pump and injectors. If it did, the IP and injectors will need replacing.

I did start it up before draining the tank and replacing the primary filter. It started up once.when I pressed the accelerator it revved up threh a cloud of white smoke then turned off. Hasn't started since.

[Dvldog8793]

Sounds like you had decent fuel in the injector lines to start with, but had some real gunk in the tank and filter.
IMHO, Pull and flush all the lines and the tank. It sounds like a big job but it really isn't that bad. depending on what type of shop you have, it should be about a days work.
Good luck!

[DmaxMaverick]

Yeah, sounds like you pushed out the good fuel, and replaced it with the junk from the tank and filters.

What I would do:

Charge the batteries.

Fill a clean fuel can, with 3-5 gallons of fresh #2.

Remove all the glow plugs. This will make purging the fuel injection system MUCH faster, and load the starting/charging system MUCH less.

Remove the fuel inlet line from the primary fuel filter, and route a CLEAN line from the inlet to the fuel can. It helps if the can is elevated to near or slightly above the filter level.

Replace the primary filter with new (you don't want the old one, full junk from the tank).

Loosen all 8 fuel injector lines, one full turn each.

Place a container below the secondary filter head. Crank the engine until fresh fuel flows. Install a new filter, then bleed until it's air-free.

Crank the engine until you have fresh fuel from the injector lines. It shouldn't take long. The system doesn't retain much volume, and it flows quickly with the injector lines loose.

Tighten the fuel injector lines. Crank the engine until you have a fresh fuel spray from each glow plug hole.

All of the above should use 1/2 to 1 gallon of fuel from the fuel supply can. Watch the level, and don't let it suck air. Add more, as necessary.

Remove the ESS connector (IP power wire). Crank the engine for 5-10 seconds. This will clear the cylinders of excess fuel. Reconnect the ESS.

Install and connect the glow plugs.

Try to start it, normally. It may smoke a little after starting, which is normal until the air is fully purged from the system.

Idle and vary the throttle for a while. Check for leaks and watch/listen for anything abnormal. You should run through about 1 gallon of fuel, most of it will return to the tank (and purge the return line in the process).

Once the engine compartment fuel system is flushed and the engine is running normally (from the fuel can), clean or replace the fuel tank as necessary, and add fresh fuel. You can use low pressure air at the fuel filler, and push the fuel out of the primary filter inlet line before connecting. Do not connect the fuel supply line from the tank to the primary filter until it is purged with fresh fuel. Once that's done, it should be good to go.

[bone]

Yeah, sounds like you pushed out the good fuel, and replaced it with the junk from the tank and filters.

What I would do:

Charge the batteries.

Fill a clean fuel can, with 3-5 gallons of fresh #2.

Remove all the glow plugs. This will make purging the fuel injection system MUCH faster, and load the starting/charging system MUCH less.

Remove the fuel inlet line from the primary fuel filter, and route a CLEAN line from the inlet to the fuel can. It helps if the can is elevated to near or slightly above the filter level.

Replace the primary filter with new (you don't want the old one, full junk from the tank).

Loosen all 8 fuel injector lines, one full turn each.

Place a container below the secondary filter head. Crank the engine until fresh fuel flows. Install a new filter, then bleed until it's air-free.

Crank the engine until you have fresh fuel from the injector lines. It shouldn't take long. The system doesn't retain much volume, and it flows quickly with the injector lines loose.

Tighten the fuel injector lines. Crank the engine until you have a fresh fuel spray from each glow plug hole.

All of the above should use 1/2 to 1 gallon of fuel from the fuel supply can. Watch the level, and don't let it suck air. Add more, as necessary.

Remove the ESS connector (IP power wire). Crank the engine for 5-10 seconds. This will clear the cylinders of excess fuel. Reconnect the ESS.

Install and connect the glow plugs.

Try to start it, normally. It may smoke a little after starting, which is normal until the air is fully purged from the system.

Idle and vary the throttle for a while. Check for leaks and watch/listen for anything abnormal. You should run through about 1 gallon of fuel, most of it will return to the tank (and purge the return line in the process).

Once the engine compartment fuel system is flushed and the engine is running normally (from the fuel can), clean or replace the fuel tank as necessary, and add fresh fuel. You can use low pressure air at the fuel filler, and push the fuel out of the primary filter inlet line before connecting. Do not connect the fuel supply line from the tank to the primary filter until it is purged with fresh fuel. Once that's done, it should be good to go.

So I worked on the Jimmy this weekend and wanted to give you guys a update.
I think i successfully purged and primed the IP and fuel pump. I disconnected the rubber hose on the primary filter and ran a clear hose from a container to the fuel rail. I also ran a hose from the return line into the bottle as well. I cracked the injectors and cranked the engine. It took a few cranks to get it flowing. Once I seen the old biofuel coming back to my container I figured I had successfully completed that part of the job. Here's some pictures of what i did...any tips or suggestions?

[DmaxMaverick]

That's probably fine, but only part of the process. Whatever you do, do not reconnect the fuel line from the tank until you are absolutely certain it contains only fresh fuel, and that old fuel has been pushed out of the fuel supply line.

It may be ready to run at this point, but I suspect the injectors have been fouled (or just used up due to age and miles), and replacement should be considered at your soonest convenience, once it's road-worthy.

[bone]

That's probably fine, but only part of the process. Whatever you do, do not reconnect the fuel line from the tank until you are absolutely certain it contains only fresh fuel, and that old fuel has been pushed out of the fuel supply line.

It may be ready to run at this point, but I suspect the injectors have been fouled (or just used up due to age and miles), and replacement should be considered at your soonest convenience, once it's road-worthy.


Today I installed the glow plugs and ran some injectors cleaner through fuel pump, IP AND injectors. I added some of the cleaning solution I bought into a 1 liter container and filled it with clear diesel. It turned on on about the 3 try.it ran really good pulling from the container. I ran it for about 2 to 3 minutes and then the fuel returning into the container stArted to turn a brownish redish color. It kinda looked like biofuel......I assumed that the cleaning solution was duing it's job so I turned the truck of and decided to try to push the fuel I. The fuel tank out of the primary filter.
The way I went about duing this was first I added some of the cleaning solution I bought directly into the fuel tank and added another 5 gallons of #2 diesel .so there should be approximately 10 gallons In the fuel tank. I disconnected the metal fuel line that hooks up to the primary filter on the side closest to the fire wall labelled "in". I. Connected a clear hose to the metal hose and tryed sucking fuel through the fuel lines using o e of your pump trucks we have at work. It looked like old dirty biofuel came out then it cleared up but it wasnt flowing through the hose like I was expecting. Looked like it was sucking a lot of air and clear diesel. So at that point I desided to stick a rag into the fuel filler and stick a air nozzle in there to push the fuel out the other end.I could see that it was coming out when I added air.but it never really filled up the hole line. ....so after that I connect everything back up and tryed starting it.it started one then died. I tryed again with my foot on the pedal.it started then turned off again. after that it would not start again. .....i still haven't changed out the secondary filter by the way.and the primary only has been changed once after I had the mistake of turned on the truck before changing t........any ideas on what to due next?

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
In looking at your initial fuel filter picture. In my experience with these trucks and diesels in USMC, farm and civilian life I have NEVER seen a fuel filter look like that. That is some nasty stuff....
Unsure how you drained the fuel tank and cleaned your lines?
You are still battling a contamination issue from someplace.
If it was my rig, I would not hook up the fuel lines and tank again until I was 100% sure they were clean. Hard to say what kind of growth has happened inside the tank and lines, but you might be fighting this for a long time if it is only letting go in little chunks.

If you need to get the truck home, I would use a separate tank and lines. I have used boat fuel tanks in the past. They already have a good pickup system in place and are certified for fuel use. Most them can be primed with a pump bulb and seem to work great.

Once you get it home or to a shop, Drop the tank, verify that it is CLEAN.

Replace ALL the lines with new.

Should be good to go, with the exception off possibly replacing the IP, lift pump and injectors.

Hope the helps!

[DmaxMaverick]

Yeah, sounds like you re-contaminated the system. Unless and until the fuel supply is 100% clean, it's back to square one every time. If it runs on an independent fuel supply, then doesn't when the OEM is connected, the cause is easily determined: The system isn't clean, and/or lacks integrity (leaks).

Also note, if bio was used in an OEM system, it's VERY likely the rubber lines are completely deteriorated internally, by this time. Replacement is the only option. The hard lines, if in good condition otherwise, should be OK with a thorough flush. Residue should be minimal, which will be routinely caught by the filters. I suspect a lot of that dark color and debris is due to the deteriorated rubber lines. This condition will not improve itself over time.

[trbankii]

I bought directly into the fuel tank and added another 5 gallons of #2 diesel .so there should be approximately 10 gallons In the fuel tank.

Sounds like you didn’t drain the “muck” out of the tank? Looking at your pictures, that stuff is beyond just diluting with new fuel. Until you get rid of all the “muck” and clean it out of the lines (or replace the lines) I doubt you’re going to have much success.

[bone]

Howdy
In looking at your initial fuel filter picture. In my experience with these trucks and diesels in USMC, farm and civilian life I have NEVER seen a fuel filter look like that. That is some nasty stuff....
Unsure how you drained the fuel tank and cleaned your lines?
You are still battling a contamination issue from someplace.
If it was my rig, I would not hook up the fuel lines and tank again until I was 100% sure they were clean. Hard to say what kind of growth has happened inside the tank and lines, but you might be fighting this for a long time if it is only letting go in little chunks.

If you need to get the truck home, I would use a separate tank and lines. I have used boat fuel tanks in the past. They already have a good pickup system in place and are certified for fuel use. Most them can be primed with a pump bulb and seem to work great.

Once you get it home or to a shop, Drop the tank, verify that it is CLEAN.

Hey thanks for the reply. ..I think my mechanical fuel pump is not working. So what I did was I disconnected the inlet line to the primary filter. The metal line. I then attached a clear hose to that and routed it to a container. I then cranked the engine for 20 seconds. 2-3 minutes in between cranks. Is this a good way to test if the mechanical fuel pump is working?

Replace ALL the lines with new.

Should be good to go, with the exception off possibly replacing the IP, lift pump and injectors.

Hope the helps!


Hey how it going thanks for the post
so I think my mechanical fuel pump is not working....what I did was I disconnected the inlet line to the primary filter (metal line) and disconnected the 2 wires that are on top of the IP.then I attached a clear hose to the metal line routed that to a container. I then cranked the engine a few times for about 20 seconds.2-3 minutes in between cranks. I have no flow. Line is dry....is this a good way to test if your mechanical fuel pump is working?

[bone]

Yeah, sounds like you re-contaminated the system. Unless and until the fuel supply is 100% clean, it's back to square one every time. If it runs on an independent fuel supply, then doesn't when the OEM is connected, the cause is easily determined: The system isn't clean, and/or lacks integrity (leaks).

Also note, if bio was used in an OEM system, it's VERY likely the rubber lines are completely deteriorated internally, by this time. Replacement is the only option. The hard lines, if in good condition otherwise, should be OK with a thorough flush. Residue should be minimal, which will be routinely caught by the filters. I suspect a lot of that dark color and debris is due to the deteriorated rubber lines. This condition will not improve itself over time.

What's a good way to test the mechanical fuel pump? I think its not pumping. ...im sure the lines were swoped out to run biofuel. That was the company first truck when they started up.. My boss really dosent know what was done to the Jimmy the other partner was the one who would work on it.and he is no longer working with us.

[joeq]

Hey how it going thanks for the post
so I think my mechanical fuel pump is not working....what I did was I disconnected the inlet line to the primary filter (metal line) and disconnected the 2 wires that are on top of the IP.then I attached a clear hose to the metal line routed that to a container. I then cranked the engine a few times for about 20 seconds.2-3 minutes in between cranks. I have no flow. Line is dry....is this a good way to test if your mechanical fuel pump is working?

I don't understand this. The primary filter receives "fuel in" from the tank, and the "fuel out" is routed to the lift pump, which pumps it to the secondary filter. I would think you should be disconnecting the lift pump "in line", and use that to suck fuel out of your container. Then disconnect the secondary fuel filter "in" line, and dump it into an M/T container and crank the eng. to see if the pump is pumping.
I know this post is a little "belated", and I hope you've got it figured out by now. I would also "reread" what's been posted about clearing your contaminated system.