need help starting my Jimmy 6.2L

[bone]

Hey how's it going ?
So im new to this forum and never owned or worked on a diesel. I bought a 83 gmc Jimmy 6.2L. Its been sitting for over 5 years on the yard of my job. I need some advice on what to due first before trying to start it.im assuming I should probably drain the fuel from the tank. And change the oil but I have zero experience on working on diesels.i work at a biofuel plant so my boss used to use biofuel. How due I tune her up? Thanks.

[ASPHALTVICTORY]

Check the starter bolts and brace (the brace looks like an insignificant bracket on the back of the starter) batterys are important on a 6.2 so use a known good pair or buy a fresh set. I myself have 2 800 cca batterys.

Next change your fuel filter and try and get fuel to the filter by cranking the engine over with the filter housing bleeder open

Try and find out why it was parked for 5 years

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

Yes, the starter bolts and bracket are very important, as is healthy batteries and the rest of the electrical. Finding out why it was parked could go a long way to getting it back to running.

Replace the air filter, and check/clean the intake plumbing. 5 years is a long time, so who knows what critter has set up housekeeping in it. Also check for rodent damage and burned wires on the electrical system. Change the oil/filter.

Replace the rest of the fluids under the hood and make sure there is some ATF in the tranny. Clear the cooling stack of any debris, then replace any belts/hoses that appear weathered. The belts (and coolant hoses) can be removed for a first start and short run period. A first run is a LOT easier without a spinning fan in the way and making a bunch of noise.

Draining the tank is not a bad idea, but it may not be necessary. If the fuel level is low (below 1/4 tank), add 5 gallons of fresh fuel, then wait an hour or two to let it settle in the tank.

Diesel fuel, even mixed with bio fuel, has an extremely long shelf life, depending on exposure and contamination. If kept clean and water-free, it's indefinite. I've started old tractors on fuel that's been in the tanks for 30-40 years with no issues. The problems you may see involve the bio fuel's affect on rubber lines and seals. If the fuel lines don't leak, or you don't see rubber debris in the fuel, it's probably OK, for now.

Remove the glow plugs. Remove the primary fuel filter inlet line. Disconnect the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid) connector at the top/forward of the injection pump. Crank engine while holding the fuel filter inlet line to a clear container for about a pint or quart. Set the fuel aside and let it settle for about an hour. It should not be cloudy or have a separation. If it's relatively clear, repeat until only clear fuel is pumped. If the fuel quality was good, and it hasn't been contaminated or grown algae, it should be OK. Check the fuel lines and fuel lift pump (lower/right of engine, just like on other older GM's) for fuel leaks. If the fuel pump has fuel wetness on the pod, check the weep hole at the bottom. If there's fuel there, the pump is shot. Easy and inexpensive to replace. If the fuel is cloudy, and doesn't clear up with repeated tests (fuel is lighter than most any contamination that may be present, so repeating the pumpings may clear that out), the tank must be drained and cleaned. It's best to just syphon out what you can, drop it, and have it properly cleaned. Make sure the fuel intake sock is perfectly clean before reinstalling.

Once good fuel is in the system, check the glow plugs. It may be better to just replace them, if they are old or original. Modern plugs are much less problematic. Don't install them, yet.

Replace the fuel filter(s), reconnect the filter inlet line, and repeat the cranking with the top bleeder open until clear, bubble-free fuel flows. If bubbles don't stop, you may have a fuel line leak between the tank and lift pump.

Reconnect the ESS solenoid connector and crank the engine. 20 seconds at a time, with about 2-5 minutes between to prevent overheating the starter. Keep the batteries well charged. You should also see the oil pressure rise during the cranking. If it doesn't, check the other instruments for response (alt, for example, should show Key-On, glow plug cycles, and cranking changes). Install a mechanical gage, temporarily, if necessary to verify you HAVE oil pressure.

Once you have fuel spray from most of the cylinders from the glow plug holes while cranking, replace the glow plugs and connect them. Check the glow plug controller. You should see battery voltage at one of the connectors for about 8-10 seconds on a cold engine with a Key-On (no start) cycle, and the glow plug lamp should light. If you don't get a glow plug cycle, address that as a separate problem, and come back to that if they don't work.

Once everything is buttoned up, it should be ready for a start. Cycle the key to ON for one glow plug cycle, then Key-Off for a second. Key-On until the glow plug lamp goes out, then crank. It should start, or try to start quickly. Limit cranking cycles to less than 20 seconds, with 5 minutes between. Keep the batteries well charged. DO NOT use starting fluid (ether).

Once it's running well, check the accessories (water pump, PS pump, Alternator, A/C pulley) for free turning. Service the cooling system and replace the thermostat, hoses, etc. Check the radiator for leaks.

The oil cooler lines that route from the oil filter area, along the LH fender and too the radiator will likely be leaky. Replace them at your soonest convenience. Aftermarket (non-OEM design) are preferred.

[Dr. Lee]

Great write-up Dmax, you should make this a sticky. Even those of us who have been around a while should have access to your complete how-to if we get roped into helping a friend or acquaintance get an old 6.2L running again.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Great write up Dmax. Just like to add that the gear oil in the front and rear should be serviced SOON. Also flush the brake system and expect the brake disks and calipers to be replaced soon if in a humid climate.
Good luck!

[DmaxMaverick]

Great write-up Dmax, you should make this a sticky. Even those of us who have been around a while should have access to your complete how-to if we get roped into helping a friend or acquaintance get an old 6.2L running again.

Thanks, Dr. Lee. I may do that.

The post is far from complete, but answers the basic topic, "need help starting". It's a long way from getting old iron back to road-worthy status. Starting the engine is the easy part, considering the remainder of the chassis. These threads usually turn into a complete primer before it's left to fall away in history.

[DmaxMaverick]

Howdy
Great write up Dmax. Just like to add that the gear oil in the front and rear should be serviced SOON. Also flush the brake system and expect the brake disks and calipers to be replaced soon if in a humid climate.
Good luck!

Without a doubt, among other things. The topic is, "need help starting", which doesn't require brakes or gear boxes. Still only the beginning of a long process for a field-bound truck. The engine, running or not, is usually the deal-breaker when one chooses or not to resurrect an old vehicle. The reality is, he may find out right quick why it was parked, and rapidly lose interest in it.

[bone]

Hey guys.
So the company I work for used the truck to collect used cooking oil. When they bought it they had the tranny rebuilt and had a compression test done on the engine and it was still good. as the company grew they perchased new trucks and stopped using the jimmy.....thanks for all the good info. Im sure when i get it up and running ill have some more questionse for you guys.