URGENT!! Need reply posthaste! Is it the fuel filter? Subzero Temps!

[PrecioustoHim]

I have a Chevy M1008 plow truck with 6.2L, and it had #2 fuel in it going into the winter months, then the temps dropped down into the sub zero temps for over 2 weeks. At first it was starting and running fine, then it began to hard start, then no start at all. Did the fuel wax up inside the filter/separator? We put it inside a warm garage a few days ago and took the filter off the firewall, and drained it. Out came some brown looking stuff, and we blew it out with air hose refilled it with #1 fuel, put it back on and drained the air bubbles out. Loosened the injectors on both sides a bit and watched as air bubbled out, but still will not turn over. Will not even try to start. Is the filter just gone too far and needs to be replaced? Are there other parts that can be harmed by the #2 fuel besides the filter? HELP please the truck has to be moved from the garage today. It is in a farm garage and they need the space back. Thanks.

[PrecioustoHim]

Also, do the injectors need to be tightened back up before it will start? This guy that is helping me to work on it says no, it will start with the injectors loose. Won't it suck air? Help please. I know absolutely nothing about this truck. It is my first diesel. I have always had gas engines. Also, I put all new glo plugs in it this last October, and we did check the glo plug relay and it seems fine. Thanks.

[john8662]

It won't start with the injection lines loose, they all have to be tight to start.

Is the Glow Plug System working?

I'd replace the filter. Brown stuff is rust/water

[PrecioustoHim]

Will replace filter and tighten injectors. Will add some #1 fuel and No Heet for Diesel. Yes the glow plugs seem to be fine. We had a test light on them last night. Thank you.

[PrecioustoHim]

Even though we filled the filter with #1 fuel there is stil air in the lines. Cracking each injector open , cranking engine over and trying to look for fuel, air bubbles, and close line while still cranking eng. over, but by the time we get 2 done the batteries and jump pack have had it and the charger cannot keep up! Came home to get a bite to eat and will try again after batteries have been re-charged again, still 6 more injectors to go. Wish there were an easier, quicker way to do this, a way that did not drain the batteries down so fast.

[DmaxMaverick]

Fuel filters are consumable. If you drained a bunch of junk from it, it's done. It's likely plugged, never to flow again. Replace it before any further attempts.

Verify you have clean fuel in the tank. Clean the tank and fill with fresh fuel, if not.
Bleed the fuel filter first. Don't worry about the injector lines, yet.
Remove the glow plugs.
Disconnect the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid) connector (top of IP, usually a pink wire) and crank until you get clear flow from the fuel filter bleed valve (top).
Verify the lift pump is working at this point.
Loosen 4 injector line nuts about 1/2 turn.
Connect the ESS.
Crank about 20-30 seconds. Don't worry about bubbles at the lines.
Charge batteries.
Tighten the injector lines.
Crank until you see a fine fuel mist from some of the glow plug holes. No more than 30 seconds at a time, with 3-5 minutes rest between. One or two misty holes is fine, don't worry about all of them.
Charge the batteries.
Install the glow plugs.
Verify 12V at the glow plug connectors at key-run cycle (before "start"). Check glow plugs for continuity from spade to ground. Repair/replace as necessary.
Connect the glow plugs.
Cycle the ignition switch and let the glow plugs cycle. Crank as soon as the GP lamp turns off. It may help to hold the throttle at about 1/2 until it starts. This not only increases the fuel rate, it also advances the timing a bit.
Repeat as necessary, 20 seconds at a time, with 3-5 minutes between. It should very quickly "try" to start. You should at least begin to see white smoke from the tailpipe. If you only get white smoke and no attempts to start, the glow plugs aren't heating, or not heating enough. You can double-dip the glow plug cycle with a key-off, key-on for a second cycle before cranking.
DO NOT, under any circumstance short of a real emergency, use any starting fluid or ether. Ever.

This may seem like a lengthy process, but it will work, 100% of the time, IF you have clean fuel, good flow, good injection pump, and a working glow plug system. Removing the glow plugs is a LOT easier on the starter while bleeding. If it's below 40F, it also helps, a lot, to use the block heater for a couple hours before starting.

The next time you remove the fuel filter, for any reason, disconnect the ESS connector during filter bleeding. This will prevent most of the air from pushing through the IP and injectors. Don't forget to reconnect it before trying to start.