Getting more power out of a 6.2L Diesel

[Madrugador]

I am a newbie to this forum and in need of a lot of help. I currently have a Land Rover Defender 90 with a GMC 6.2. It was installed not too long after I bought in 2005. For folks not to familiar with Land Rovers, their engines are inherently prone to problems. I have been super happy with this motor, but because of the gearing for the vehicle is for a high revving engine, at about 70mph it was at the maximum rpm output for the 6.2. So I added a overdrive and that helped the situation a bit better where I can go about 70mph and the engine doesn't sound like it is going to explode, but the RPMs at this speed is still a bit on the high side. Well the only thing left for me to do was to change the ring and pinion to a higher ratio and in doing so, the vehicle in general runs infinitely better, however the vehicle has trouble maintaining 5th gear with the overdrive engaged. The great thing is that the RPMs are in the optimum power range for the motor and best of all is the noise level is significantly reduced. In order to push through 5th gear with the overdrive engaged, I need more power.

One obvious way to get more power is to move to a different or large Diesel (e.g. 6.5L) or maybe there are some things that I can add or change to the 6.2L.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks for your time.
-Madrugador

[DmaxMaverick]

Simple. Turbo. Done.

[Dvldog8793]

Turbo is by far the best option. Not sure how it would work for your application. I don't think any of the "kits" would work.
I would start by calling BanksTurbo and see what they can tell you.
I have done some work to my 6.2 without a turbo and it is BETTER than what it was...but not even close to what a turbo is. I would think that maybe you could gain 15 horsepower with out a turbo, depending on how your engine is set up now. Does your engine have an EGR? What does it have for an intake system and exhaust system?
Maybe Dr.Lee will chime in, he has done about everything you can do to a NON-turbo 6.2.
Lots of great info on this sight....do a search for N/A 6.2 power
Hope this helps!

[Madrugador]

Thanks Dvidog8793 and DmaxMaverick for replying. To answer a few questions the best that I can, the intake is just a standard carburetor and filter and the exhaust is just a custom stainless steel muffler system to accommodate the motor that isn't standard for this vehicle. I don't know what a EGR is, (Sorry, I am not that sophisticated). From my understanding, this motor is not set up naturally for a turbo. I will get in contact with BanksTurbo.
Thanks again for your advice!

[MajMike]

Thanks Dvidog8793 and DmaxMaverick for replying. To answer a few questions the best that I can, the intake is just a standard carburetor and filter and the exhaust is just a custom stainless steel muffler system to accommodate the motor that isn't standard for this vehicle. I don't know what a EGR is, (Sorry, I am not that sophisticated). From my understanding, this motor is not set up naturally for a turbo. I will get in contact with BanksTurbo.
Thanks again for your advice!


Banks specifically designed the Sidewinder turbo for this engine, though your install will be different. Sounds like an egr delete would help things too, not hard to do there's a sticky here somewhere which goes through the process step by step.

Good luck and welcome to the site.

[Dr. Lee]

Dr. Lee (that's me) has explored various avenues of non-turbo power enhancement, and has come to the conclusion already stated above:

Simple. Turbo. Done.

[Madrugador]

Thanks everyone for "chiming in!" It looks like the best option for my vehicle in to simply add a turbo; however, I do have a few more questions.
1. Is it simple to install or is this a job for a diesel expert?
2. Where is this type of turbo installed because I have to check to see if I have the clearance for it.
3. What kind of horsepower upgrade can I expect?
4. How reliable is this sindwinder turbo?

More info about my 6.2: It has the enhanced fuel pump that can be used with the 6.5. also the girdle is extra heavy duty and the cylinders are coated or treated with so substance the will allow for higher compressions. When I purchased the engine I got all of the "bell and whistles."

Thanks for all of the great input, your all are a Godsend!

[joeq]

Will be interesting to see if you'll have room for your turbo install. The Banks kit puts the turbo on the RHS of the engine compartment, possibly down low. I'm thinking the turbo exhaust manifolds are made to fit the GM truck compartments, that appear to have more room than the Land rover. I personally haven't done one (yet), and can't honestly say. I'm sure if you were to contact some-one in the service dept, they could give you the low-down.
P.S. You mentioned you had a "coating" on your cylinder walls, to allow for more compression. I've heard of coatings on piston tops, and combustion chambers to retain heat, but never heard of them allowing for more compression.

[Madrugador]

Joeq, thanks for the reply. I am probably wrong with the function of the coating, my knowledge of diesels is very limited, this is why I am a member of this forum to increase my knowledge. Diesels are cool! Now the point that I would like to stress is that I have a motor that has been highly upgraded.

[Madrugador]

Thanks Dvidog8793 and DmaxMaverick for replying. To answer a few questions the best that I can, the intake is just a standard carburetor and filter and the exhaust is just a custom stainless steel muffler system to accommodate the motor that isn't standard for this vehicle. I don't know what a EGR is, (Sorry, I am not that sophisticated). From my understanding, this motor is not set up naturally for a turbo. I will get in contact with BanksTurbo. Thanks again for your advice!

I am in need of the OFFICIAL web site address. Thanks!

[Dvldog8793]

www.bankspower.com (http://www.bankspower.com)

[DmaxMaverick]

Thanks everyone for "chiming in!" It looks like the best option for my vehicle in to simply add a turbo; however, I do have a few more questions.
1. Is it simple to install or is this a job for a diesel expert?

The Banks kits are essentially "bolt-on". If you get the complete kit, it will have full instructions on what to do.


2. Where is this type of turbo installed because I have to check to see if I have the clearance for it.The "pickup" version Sidewinder mounts at the right hand side of the engine compartment. If you have limited clearance there, it may not be possible to mount it in that location. Not to worry, though. A good muffler shop can fabricate the plumbing to mount it just about anywhere. There are also options for "van" applications, which may be more suitable. Banks will be able to advise the best option.


3. What kind of horsepower upgrade can I expect?+ 40-50% neighbourhood, or more. Lots of variables to consider.


4. How reliable is this sindwinder turbo?VERY reliable. Often times, they outlast the engine they were installed on.

Also note, the Banks Sidewinder, and all Banks 6.2L kits, were designed to be used on un-modified 6.2L engines. If you have "upgrades", all the better, but not necessarily necessary.

[Madrugador]

Thanks DmaxMaverick for your time!

From your response, my Defender will be getting this SideWinder. However, I do have another problem, my mechanic is "burned out" with the installation of the 6.2L. I am in need of a "Cracker Jack" diesel mechanic that can, if needed, to do some fabrication to install this Turbo SideWinder into my vehicle. I live in Springfield, Illinois and is willing to travel far to get the job done. Do you or anyone else know of an individual that can rise to the challenge? Thanks! I will be looking for yours or anyone else's response.

Side Note: On the Banks Web Site they have listed SideWinders for the early model 6.2L and the late model 6.2L, however, only the early model is available. Is this of any concert?

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Given your vehicle application, I would really recommend "talking" to someone at banks and explaining what type of vehicle you have and the space differences or limitations. It isn't real difficult to put one of these into a chevy truck BUT it could be a challenge in your vehicle and some of the parts might not fit at all.
Good luck in your search for a mechanic...

[TrenchFoot]

Earlier this year someone had a lot of similar questions related to fitment in an RV. I posted a few details on how the two Banks kits fit: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=42953

I was able to order the early kit from Summit Racing and it was drop shipped from Banks. Banks doesn't advertise it as available directly without paying for one of the more inclusive sets with stainless exhaust. But they'll sell you anything you want if you call them (thought they might be more expensive than Summit).

I'm closing in on 4 years for my rebuild and swap into my Jeep, so I'm no expert. But check the thread above and you can get an idea of how they fit. (Or download the manuals from Banks: Early (http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals/656/96291.pdf) and Late (http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals/430/96292-SidewinderTurbo-v2-web.pdf).) Good luck.

[More Power]

Used to be that you could visit the Banks web site, and download their 6.2L Sidewinder turbo install guide as a PDF. This'll give you an idea what's involved. I've done one. It is a job, but doable by most who are somewhat mechanically inclined.

[john8662]

What gears and tire size do you have? What's your Overdrive ratio?

[Madrugador]

Thanks for all of the great input. I going to try to answer a few question as best as I can. Now first of all, all of these numbers are for a Defender 90, the only thing that is American is the motor.

Tire Sides: 265/75R16

Transfer Case: 1.21 to 1

Gears: 1st (3.32 to 1)
2nd (2.13 to 1)
3rd (1.39 to 1)
4th (1 to 1)
5th (0.73 to 1)

The RoverDrive Overdrive drops the RPMs down 28%.

The Ring and Pinion ratio is 2.83.

Now maybe you can see why I am having trouble holding 5th gear with the overdrive engaged. I think that with the Banks Sidewinder, I should be OK!

In general, are turbos noisy or it depends on the turbo?
Thanks Again for the input!

[DmaxMaverick]

All turbos are noisy. Reducing the noise, up to and including near silent, depends on the intake and exhaust plumbing. Try it "noisy", first. It's addictive.

The turbine requires exhaust gas volume to produce charge air boost. At the low RPM's you are running in OD, the gas volume just won't be there below 150 KPH. That's an exaggeration, but you'll need 1500-1800 RPM's or more before you get usable boost, in any case. This also depends on how you set up the fueling. Also note, RPM's below the boost envelope make the turbo a parasite (a restriction in the intake and exhaust), which will change your low RPM operating characteristics.

[AKMark]

RPM's way too low at cruise speed with the numbers you posted. You cannot be running more than 1400 RPM's at 55 mph with that combo.

Get the RPM's up a bit. Quit using the RoverDrive Overdrive. Look at this, it has your ratios and can help you greatly see where you are running. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Without the Overdrive, you're right where you should be. If you want to use the overdrive you need different gears in your axles, otherwise your not going to be able to use it.

Completely agree with DMax, you need almost 1800 rpms before the Turbo will be a help. So if you are running to low to begin with, not going to help.

Diesels are noisy, turbos don't help.

[AKMark]

Okay, so I may have read all this wrong. Is the RangerDrive Overdrive unit 5th gear or another secondary overdrive attached to the drive system?

[trbankii]

This was discussed in his other thread - http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=43594

It was noted that he changed from the standard differential ratio of 3.54:1 to a ratio of 2.83:1 - dropping the rpms below the usable range of the 6.2 or 6.5 when in overdrive.

[john8662]

Tire Sizes: 265/75R16
Transfer Case: 1.21 to 1
Overdrive 5th (0.73 to 1)
Ring and Pinion ratio is 2.83.



Now we have the details we need. I know my first gut impression of this gear ratio of 2.83 leads me to think that this is the problem, but not when all the details are on the table. The reason for the steep gear ratio out back is the 1.21:1 transfer case ratio, not the typical 1:1 we see on our typical GM's.

Here is the formula I dug up to do this one:

rpm = (mph x final gear ratio x 336*) / tire diameter

Here is what we need:

Final Gear/Drive Ratio: (TC Ratio x Gear Ratio x OD Ratio) = 2.39
Tire Diameter Converted from P-Metric = 31.6

70MPH x 2.39 x 336 / 31.6 (265/75R16) = 1778.88

Source for gear calc: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0208-gear-ratio-calculating/

So at 70 MPH in 5th we're turning approximately 1800 RPM, yes a little too low at those speeds with that weight of vehicle. Your target should be around 1950 to 2000.

If you change the tire size to a 245 rubber, you get 1848 (1850) in OD.

What other gear ratios are available for these differentials?

You need something in the middle, the turbo will not be a good investment on this engine! The Banks turbo doesn't have good low end performance at all, it doesn't perform at low RPM's, it is only "responsive" at 2100 and up.

You need another gear ratio, went too tall (numerically lower) of a gear. But not as bad as it originally appeared due to the 1.21:1 transfer case.

I'd try 245/75 R16 tires and see if you notice an improvement in performance, lower rotational mass and 1" shorter, this will help the 6.2L out.

[Edahall]

The only thing I can think of that will get you a little more power at that those low RPM's would be a set of exhaust headers such as Stans Headers. However, the question is whether or not they would fit in your Land Rover.

[Madrugador]

Hi Everyone,

For me this is a sad day...
My mechanic informed me that there is no way that the Banks Sidewinder will fit into the vehicle. I appreciate all of the analysis about my set-up with the installation of the Sidewinder;however, now I am at the point of desperation. How can I eke out a few more hp with the set-up that I have or I am resigned to looking at a different motor? I truly love this motor. It is reliable as "the sunrise". Help...

[DmaxMaverick]

Contact Peninsular Diesel (http://www.peninsulardiesel.com). They offer many turbo setups for marine and Hummer applications, with several position options. They also ship worldwide.

[TrenchFoot]

Contact Peninsular Diesel (http://www.peninsulardiesel.com). They offer many turbo setups for marine and Hummer applications, with several position options. They also ship worldwide.

Dmax beat me to it, was just writing this up. Image stolen from Peninsular's site.

If you want to continue looking at a turbo I think the 6.5 van setup is the most compact, it sits in the rear of the valley. I think the van setup is the same as the turbo HMMWV setup. This thread (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=30501) has no details, but a good shot if it.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/peninsular01.jpg

[Madrugador]

Hi Everyone,

Well I mailed back the Sidewinder Turbo today, crying while doing so.
I called Peninsula Diesel to see what they can offer. To my surprise, they told me that they don't have a turbo for this motor and most truck motors, they mainly supply turbos for boat applications, even the exhaust is made for water applications and has a different design. I am not quite sure as to what they are capable doing. No mention of Hummer Work. If a turbo is supplied, maybe they can custom fit the turbo? Who did the work in the photo of the van motor?

I have an appointment with Area Diesel in Carlinville, IL. to bring the truck in to have some adjustments made to increase the efficiency of the motor.

I am going to look at Stans Headers. Any another suggestions would be much appreciated.

[TrenchFoot]

I'd focus on a center mount turbo out of a van or HMMWV. Ebay has used military turbo intakes, turbos and exhaust manifolds for cheap, but you'd be left looking for bits and pieces. Or look for a used van setup at area junkyards.

This site sounds like a good source for bigger military parts like the manifolds, but also the little things like bolts, brackets and clamps. I called them once and they said they did a lot of business as a government supplier to National Guard units.

http://www.65diesel.com/

Not to be confused with these guys, who'd probably sell you a center mount turbo setup for a van, but they can't bring themselves to come clean on where their blocks are sourced from.

http://www.6-5liter.com/

[Madrugador]

A million thanks to DmaxMaverick and Trench Foot for all of your help. I got an early Christmas Present! My mechanic just informed me that the Van Set-Up is doable. Now when I contact these suppliers for parts, do I have to give a list of every part that I need or just tell them what set-up I need and they will put the package together? My mechanic has the following question:

Is there an option to move the exhaust pipe to the other side of the turbo?? In other words reverse the picture you sent me??

If I am not clear, exhaust pipe is on the left (driver's) side of the turbo now. Can exhaust exit the turbo on the right side instead of the left??

[DmaxMaverick]

The turbo can be repositioned, but it may present clearance issues. Some creative plumbing should make it manageable, though. The turbine and compressor inlet/outlet can be rotated in relation to one another, but they can't be "mirrored". That would require an opposite-rotation turbo. They may be available, but I've never looked.

[TrenchFoot]

A million thanks to DmaxMaverick and Trench Foot for all of your help.

No sweat. I've said it before but I'll say it again: I'm no expert. I don't even have a running 6.2 yet. More time to kill online than I do in a garage.

Searching for photos of a van turbo setup doesn't come up with much. It appears that the intake manifolds are the same as the HMMWV manifolds. The turbo looks real similar too. But I don't think you'll find a 'kit' for either of these anywhere. I really think you need to find a school bus getting parted out and just pull the whole engine.

Not sure what block you have, but it sounds like there's a mounting boss cast into the 599 block that you need tapped to mount the turbo to. No telling how you make it work if you have an older block. And it sounds like you can't use the cam-driven vacuum pump with this setup either. Check this thread out from another site:

Van turbo install. (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/474948-any-experience-turbo-kit-will-work.html)

A totally different route would be to just go with a remote turbo mounted between the frame rails. I remember this guy said that there wasn't as much turbo lag with it as you'd think. Pick the right turbo and just about any performance exhaust shop could do this for you:

Van with remote turbo. (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/470-6-5-6-2-high-performance-engine-modifications/471884-did-remote-turbo-van.html)

Good luck.

[Madrugador]

My mechanic is having some reservations about putting in the turbo after reading all of the comments about the setup of the vehicle and the rpms settings.
I am ignorant about how the turbo works. Does it work by the force of the exhaust or the temperature of the exhaust? Can someone explain the basics of the action of the turbo on the 6.2? Does each turbo have its own range of specifications? In the early part of this thread, the turbo talk was about the sidewinder turbo now we are investigating the possiblility of the center mounted 6.5-6.2 van style turbo, I assume that there is a difference? Lastly, will I be wasting my time with this center mounted 6.2 turbo with my setup or should I just consider another engine altogether? Thanks!

[TrenchFoot]

I'm no engineer (well, I am, but not an automotive or mechanical engineer) so I'm probably wrong on 20-80% of what follows. But at least some of this is correct:

A turbo works by using the pressure of the exhaust to drive the turbine wheel which spins the other turbine, the compressor wheel. The more load on the engine, the more forceful the exhaust gasses leave the engine and more pressure that is available to spin the turbo. Engine RPM comes into play too, but when cruising at a given RPM under light load the turbine wheel isn't getting the same amount of pressure to spin that happens under a heavy load at the same RPM.

The more pressure from exhaust, the more energy is available to spin the compressor and feed more air into the intake. Unlike in a gas engine, a diesel's turbo actually can help a diesel run more "healthy". This is because the increased amount of fresh air helps the fuel burn more completely in the cylinders. Unburnt fuel is what makes a diesel blow black smoke. This is unburnt fuel continues to combust and generate heat. Heat is what kills a diesel: melting the exhaust valves and and aluminum pistons and overheating the heads.

Whether you go with a side mount, center mount or even a remote mount turbo (one mounted under the truck, downstream on the exhaust) the effects are the same: more air for combustion, more complete fuel burn, more power and lower exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs).

Under light load they don't make much difference and the turbine wheel actually creates interference or backpressure. This is why a turbo needs to be balanced for the engine. Banks Sidewinders aren't the biggest turbos used on 6.2/6.5 engines and they don't make the most boost. But they are sized kinda conservatively for the 6.2 for day-to-day use. Lotsa guys go bigger for bigger power, but economy probably suffers a bit. The Banks turbo is also a non-wastegate turbo: no blow-off valve is needed to prevent overboosting the engine because they don't make massive boost.

It's fair to say that the Banks Sidewinder turbo is the safe choice for day-to-day use and greater power. Not because of where it's mounted but because of the whatever math the engineers did at Banks to choose the right sized turbo (both turbines sized appropriately). The center mount turbo is a safe choice too because that turbo was sized for the engine by GM (well, sized for a 6.5). Similarly, a remote mount turbo can have the same effect if you select a turbo that is sized the same.

If you and your mechanic settle on a final gear ratio that's appropriate for the 6.2 at highway speed (~1800-2000 RPM), a Banks or GM turbo setup will only help your power and economy. Read up on the Sidewinder at Banks' site and their reference pages. Sure, it's all biased marketing stuff intended to help them sell product. But in ~20 years no one has really called them out for making bad products or publishing BS.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
The only reservation you should have about putting a turbo on a diesel is the logistics of the mounting. Diesels like turbos...If you can get it mounted in there then TURBO is the way to go. Some people have used superchargers but they take power to make power and logistics of it is really a challenge. Turbos get us FREE power that would other wise be wasted.
A turbo uses a mix of both exhaust gas pressure and temp. keeping the turbo closer to the engine and up higher seems to work the best.
Any turbo system designed for a 6.2 will work great for your ENGINE. Maybe not for your vehicle application.
You will also need to gear things appropriately for your tires and desired power range. Same as you would need to do with ANY engine.
If you want a diesel in your rig then the 6.2/6.5 is a great option because of the design to keep it in line with GM v8 engines.

Good luck!!

[trbankii]

My mechanic is having some reservations about putting in the turbo after reading all of the comments about the setup of the vehicle and the rpms settings.

Considering that they put non-turbo 6.2s in Suburbans with a curb weight headed towards 5000lbs and 3500s with a curb weight over 5000lbs and a GVWR of 8600lbs or more, it just doesn’t seem right that a 6.2 is going to need substantially more power to push a Defender under 4000lbs...

[Dvldog8793]

...as trbankii said....

When I was in the Marines we had NA6.2s in hmmwve and 1 1/4ton chevy trucks with communication vans mounted on the back for a GVW in excess of 10,000 lbs pulling a 3000lb trailer. Those vehicles were by no means speedsters but they certainly got the job done. I think with proper drivetrain and gearing the 6.2 should move your rig just fine.
My blazer probably weighs more than your defender and it does just fine on the highway, doesn't take off like a rocket but will travel at 70mph all day....
BUT....a turbo is always better....:D

[trbankii]

doesn't take off like a rocket but will travel at 70mph all day....
BUT....a turbo is always better....:D

True on both counts. ;)

[eurosport]

Hello Group,
I have e-mailed Mitch@PeninsularDiesel.com to try and put together a package from him. There is no way posssible I see it valid to believe I can procure manifolds and all required parts to install this turbo system from local salvage yards.
If any of you have info where I can get all required parts, please post or contact me .

Thank you,
Bob

[TrenchFoot]

This dude is selling a 'kit' on ebay for $650.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-2-6-5-diesel-centermount-turbo-kit-/181633208513

If you search Ebay for "6.5 diesel van turbo manifold" or "6.5 HMMWV turbo manifold" or similar you'll find most of what you need. I was seeing new HMMWV intake manifolds for $170, exhaust manifolds about the same. Start gambling on a used turbo and all the little pieces and you'd pass $650 easy. Not saying that $650 bundle is a slam dunk, but might be a good start.

(Notice that the turbo and wastegate actuator are different between pics. He probably cobbles together a kit when he gets a sale. I'd reach out to him for specifics before buying...)

Considering the time it takes to me get to a decent yard, hoping they have the parts I need, then the cost; Ebay is usually a quicker and cheaper way to get used parts.

(edit: There's a new van turbo (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-TURBOCHARGER-GM-VAN-HUMMER-H1-6-5L-TURBO-DIESEL-WITH-INSTALL-KIT-/120685111647) on ebay for $511. Maybe pair that up with a kit from the first guy minus his used turbo and get it all for ~$1k?)

[Edahall]

Lastly, will I be wasting my time with this center mounted 6.2 turbo with my setup or should I just consider another engine altogether? Thanks!

Due to your axle ratio and resulting low rpm's, I'm not sure you're going to gain much (if any) by adding a turbo. A turbo needs enough rpm's spool up.

If you're stuck with your axle ratio setup, you might consider the Cummins 6BT. It might be a bit of an overkill but you would get a significant increase in power at those low rpm's. In fact, this is how my 1990 Suburban is set up. At 100 km/h (60 mph), the 6BT turns over at roughly 1300 rpm's. It also has enough power to pull 6% grades at this rpm. For a quite ride, find an 88-93 6BT with a VE pump. The 94-98's with the P-pump can make more power but are significantly noisier.

Take a look at the following Land Rover 6BT conversions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50XY0v03GsE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwqGaVU8Vug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxKFu_wb0Gg

[Edahall]

Here's the power curve for a 6.2 NA vs. 6.2 Banks turbo. As you can see, both put out the same power output at 1250 rpm. Where the turbo shines is at higher rpm's. Off idle, the data is not shown probably because power output with the turbo is less than without turbo.

http://assets.bankspower.com/prod_inline_images/314/62L-turbo-graph.jpg


For comparison, here's the power curve for a Cummins 6BT. It develops much more power at lower rpm's than the 6.2 Banks turbo. In fact, it puts out nearly the same power at 500 rpm as a 6.2 at 1250 rpm.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/figures/97dsl-man.jpg

[TrenchFoot]

Back on the topic of a 6.2 with center mount turbo, does anyone know whether it'd even bolt up? I was under the impression that the intake would bolt up but in a post over on the 6.5 forum (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=43805), saw a comment that the intake holes are a different angle?


The heads on a center mount engine, have different angle on the intake bolt holes.

Is it true that the intake won't fit on a 6.2? Could you get tricky with a drill and make them work with stock 6.2 heads?

[john8662]

Tell your mechanic he is right, your gearing is incorrect, and even more so for a turbo application. Forget about a turbo here, you've got a gearing problem.

Go back to the math in my previous post and re-read, possibly give the information to your mechanic to he can help you choose the correct gear ratio for the 6.2L.

What gear ratios are available?

[TrenchFoot]

Here's the best gear ratio calculator I've found online. Doesn't hurt that he's a fellow Wagoneer owner. His calculator even takes into account the lost RPMs when using non-lockup torque converters:

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

[turbovanman]

I am the remote mounted turbo van guy, :D

Stock turbo's spool right off idle, he won't have trouble spooling it or keeping it spooled on the highway. If you have the room, use the van setup but the crappy part is, its hard to upgrade. If you can, I'd use a Banks exhaust manifold and customize the rest.

Heads are different on the van, bolt angles are wrong so you can't interchange the manifolds between trucks and vans.

On my setup, I pretty well build boost right off idle, its a neat setup for sure.

I am a parting out a turbo van engine, so all the manifolds, turbo etc are up for grabs. Block too if you want it. :cool: