Block heater conversion

[joeq]

Looking for info, to convert my block heater to 12V.
My problem goes like this. If my 6.2 isn't plugged in overnite in the winter, it's a bear to start in the morning, if it will even start at all. Not sure if this is just "my" truck, or all 6.2s. My glo-plugs do work, but maybe not all. Haven't tested them in years. If you guys tell me it should start in the dead of winter, I'll investigate further. My work doesn't allow me access to a 120V outlet, so if it sat all day in the parking lot, at temps less than 60*, it probably won't start after work.
I was curious if I ran a transformer off my batteries, during work, (about 8 hours), and converted the block heater to 12V, would the amount of juice needed to power the block heater for this amount of time, drain the batteries? Or if I ran a dedicated battery specifically for the block heater, and recharged it "frequently(?), would this sound like a logical solution? Or am I out in left field again? Any advice is appreciated. thanx

[DmaxMaverick]

It's best to get your glow plug system healthy. They start well, if so. No chance on heating it with 12V. The (OEM) block heater is 800W. The stock battery capacity wouldn't last half that (and would be too dead to start), and less heat won't do much good. Even if you only heated for 2 hours, the batteries will likely be too dead for a winter start. Warm block, but no start. No good. Increasing battery capacity could help, or better yet, a dedicated electrical system for that purpose. I really don't see it working well, in any case.

However, there are other options. There are fuel-fired heaters available (Webasto, for example). They use a little fuel, and a little battery power (for control and circulation pump), to keep the engine warm. Many of them are programmable, and some with remote control. Another option is an auto-start system. These sense the engine coolant temp, and start, then shut down the engine according to a temp range you set. Probably the least expensive solution, but may have undesirable disadvantages, such as your truck starting unattended, and the engine not heating well at idle.

[joeq]

So Gregg, are you saying your 85 6.2 Blazer would start easily on a frigid winter morning, W/O block heating?

[DmaxMaverick]

So Gregg, are you saying your 85 6.2 Blazer would start easily on a frigid winter morning, W/O block heating?

Yep. Even at 10K elevation at -22F. The altitude is worse than the cold. A friend with an older 12V Dodge needed a leaf blower to get his started.

BTW....
Good synthetic oil helps a LOT.

[DmaxMaverick]

Also....
I've rarely used the block heater. When I did, it was between glow plug or controller issues, or just to get the heater working.

[Robyn]

Get a good set of 60G GLOW PLUGS in the little beast and set up your glow controller so yo can over ride and give the plugs more time.

Easy to do.

Wire a Ford Starter relay in parallel with your glow plug controllers heavy leads that go to the plugs from the factory controller. (hook to bolt terminal at controller)

Run a heavy cable from the battery + to one of the relays heavy terminals, then run a line from the other relays heavy terminal to the side of the stock plug controller that goes to the plugs.

Wire in a momentary push button with one wire from the bat + to the switch and the other side of the switch to the small terminal on the relay.



Your plug controller will work normally and will likely be fine in moderate weather.

After the light goes off in cold weather press the button for another 10 seconds or so, then twist its tail.

If need be, cycle the button on and off to help smooth things out for 15 seconds or so.

Only use 60G plugs with this setup as they will handle the extra use

The 7g 9g and 11g will fry.


I have lit off my 6.5 with 60G in Zero F and no issue even after cold soaking for a FEW DAYS.

What shape are the squirts in ???

Worn out squirts will make it a real bitch to lite when cold.

Use standard pop squirts, not these high pops or marine units


Good luck

Missy

[Dvldog8793]

Both my 6.2s and my 6.5 start in negative 40deg without being plugged in. I have done this intentionally just to prove to myself that they would start. sounded like they were gonna come apart...but they ran! I use synthetic 5w40 in winter and reg15w40 in summer. Key thing is good batteries and a good path for the juice to get to the starter. They need to spin fast.

The 12 heater is not an option that would work with any kind of satisfaction. When I worked for Motorola we tried to make it work in a ford diesel escort....not a good idea. 12VDC vehicle electrical systems just is not designed for long time resistance type loads. Just watch your voltmeter when the glows cycle and you'll see how much drop there is....:eek:

Clean up and maximize the electrical system and then update the glow plugs. As Robyn said, make sure you got good injectors....

Hope this helps!

[AKMark]

If 60 F above zero is your limit, you have problems with your truck that need to be addressed.

Up here in Alaska my 6.2's, 6.5's and 6.6's all start at -40 with 15W-40 conventional oil. They don't like me when I forget to plug them in, but they start. Anything below that and the 6.2's and 6.5's say no. The Duramax doesn't seem to care about the cold as much. They are much happier when I plug them in, but typically I give them 2 hours of plug in time prior to starting when temps are below zero. Causes a lot less wear and tear on things.

Good oil plays a significant factor. About to try synthetic Delo in the Duramax for this winter.

[joeq]

Great info people. it's late, and I need to crash, but tomorrow I'll take some notes. appreciate the info. Thanx.

[joeq]

I guess I feel the need to up-date this issue. I ended up installing a heater into my lower radiator hose, because it was the quickest, cheapest and easiest temporary fix. This heater doesn't even have 2 months on it, and it's already unserviceable. It worked fine last month, but the other day, when I plugged it in, it was hard starting. Wasn't sure if the external extension cord became unplugged, but when I tried and tested the heater today, found out, it's now, not working. I wish I could remember where I got it, or the brand, but as of right now, it's a mystery. As mentioned, it installs into the lower radiator hose, once you slice it in half. Bummer. :mad:
P.S. I installed the "mad" icon at the end of this message, and for some reason, has automatically decided to placed itself at the top of the page.(?)

[DmaxMaverick]

I've never had much faith in the hose insert heaters. They're OK for small engines (1.6L and smaller), mostly used for stubborn Ag equipment. Safer than ether, and cheaper in the long run. They just don't offer the capacity for larger automotive type V engines. The OEM heater is about as good as it gets, for a plug-in solution.

[trbankii]

As had been mentioned (several times) before, you really need to get your glow plugs working properly. The temperatures here are already falling into the 30s at night and will only continue to drop. Better to have things working properly than messing around with bandaid "fixes" that will leave you stranded.

[joeq]

Yeah, I know. I'm not sure they're "not" working properly, but I do need to test them for sure. I know they're easy enuff to change, just need to price them out. not sure how expensive they are. Guess I'll check them out now.

[Yukon6.2]

Minuses temperatures are here.
-10C here the other morning and mine fired right up.But if there are a few bad plugs then the cranking and smoke begins.
Thomas

[trbankii]

Yeah, I know. I'm not sure they're "not" working properly, but I do need to test them for sure.

That you cannot get the truck started with normal glow cycles in above freezing temperatures pretty much says that something in the glow circuit is not functioning properly.