Robyn
08-09-2014, 10:14
Hello to all those unhappy souls having issues with starters on the 6.5 diesel
Getting to the starter wiring and the front support bracket are not at all hard, and need not result in hair pulling, blood letting and all manner of misery.
The secret is to jack up the RIGHT FRONT WHEEL (Block the rig for safety)
Remove the tire/wheel, then remove the rubber inner fender flap.
You will then have a great view of the wiring, the front starter support bracket and a whole host of other items you were thoroughly convinced were impossible to reach with normal human hands and tools.
The one item that can wreak havoc on your starter, starter main bolts and from there to the engine block, followed closely by a serious evacuation of your wallet is the front starter bracket.
I commonly refer to this little beast as the "TAIL HOOK"
This little piece of steel angle is a very important item and should NEVER NEVER BE LEFT OFF.
Did I say NEVER LEAVE IT OFF :eek:
The tail hook takes a lot of torque load off the starter while it cranks the engine.
The starter pinion is trying to climb the ring gear and thus it really strains the two main bolts.
The hook supports the front facing end of the starter.
You will see in the one piccy a shot looking in to the area where the starter fits and there is a RED colored bolt. This is where the one end of the hook fastens, and the other end bolts to the long stud on the starters forward facing end cap.
You can buy a hook from GM (Part #23502557) or you can easily make one from a piece of steel angle.
The pix show the dimensions well.
The bolt hole/slot are 5/16"
The steel is 1/8" thick
You can use 1/8" x 1"x 1" angle or 1-1/4" angle The actual GM PART WAS A STAMPING and is about 1-1/8"
The size need not be perfect, just the location of the holes is the important part.
The included pix show the starter with the hook attached as well as all the dimensions.
You dont have to cut the nice radius in the one side if you don't want to.
The factory part has changed over the years some, but the function is the same.
Be sure to use a metric bolt in the block and use a grade 5 or equiv.
Adding some never seaze to the threads is a good idea.
More pix on the next post
Getting to the starter wiring and the front support bracket are not at all hard, and need not result in hair pulling, blood letting and all manner of misery.
The secret is to jack up the RIGHT FRONT WHEEL (Block the rig for safety)
Remove the tire/wheel, then remove the rubber inner fender flap.
You will then have a great view of the wiring, the front starter support bracket and a whole host of other items you were thoroughly convinced were impossible to reach with normal human hands and tools.
The one item that can wreak havoc on your starter, starter main bolts and from there to the engine block, followed closely by a serious evacuation of your wallet is the front starter bracket.
I commonly refer to this little beast as the "TAIL HOOK"
This little piece of steel angle is a very important item and should NEVER NEVER BE LEFT OFF.
Did I say NEVER LEAVE IT OFF :eek:
The tail hook takes a lot of torque load off the starter while it cranks the engine.
The starter pinion is trying to climb the ring gear and thus it really strains the two main bolts.
The hook supports the front facing end of the starter.
You will see in the one piccy a shot looking in to the area where the starter fits and there is a RED colored bolt. This is where the one end of the hook fastens, and the other end bolts to the long stud on the starters forward facing end cap.
You can buy a hook from GM (Part #23502557) or you can easily make one from a piece of steel angle.
The pix show the dimensions well.
The bolt hole/slot are 5/16"
The steel is 1/8" thick
You can use 1/8" x 1"x 1" angle or 1-1/4" angle The actual GM PART WAS A STAMPING and is about 1-1/8"
The size need not be perfect, just the location of the holes is the important part.
The included pix show the starter with the hook attached as well as all the dimensions.
You dont have to cut the nice radius in the one side if you don't want to.
The factory part has changed over the years some, but the function is the same.
Be sure to use a metric bolt in the block and use a grade 5 or equiv.
Adding some never seaze to the threads is a good idea.
More pix on the next post