Robyn
08-08-2014, 16:10
Glow plug swaps, easy engine priming, getting at the starter wires, the starter support brkt and a few other things on the Six and a half trucks has always caused great amounts of consternation, trepidation, use of vile language and loss of hide, plus generous blood letting.
This said, there has to be a better way than the above methods.
Getting ready to finish up Dahooooley, the real issue of getting to the back glow plug was going to be tough with my one screwed up paw.
A left hand will not reach up beyond the down pipe and grab the Glow plug, wire or.
Soooooooo, I went to thinking.
This is a sweeeeeeet easy solution.
Cut a Rat hole in the inner fender as follows.
I did some measuring and serious looking since the turbo is not on yet.
Using the next to the bottom rubber flap retainer button hole as a reference point.
Go from the center of the button hole up 1 inch and drill a 1/4 inch hole
Then go straight back 4 inches (use the torsion bar in the down position as a reference point to parallel)
On the front edge follow the curve around leaving about 3/8" of metal behind the little dip where the rubber flap fits, as this keeps the inner fender sturdy.
The lower edge of the cut is 3-3/4" below the top cut (Measuring down the front)
The back edge is 3" to the rear, then connect the top and bottom, following the natural curve of the inner fenders form in that area.
The top cut goes fairly close to the main wiring harness
So be careful, lest you screw up your wiring :eek::eek::eek:
The piccy shows my harness well as it has a red wrap on it.
The pix have explanations on them.
Also is a great shot of the Starter front hanger bracket area with the red colored bolt in the block.
To get at the #8 glow plug may require removing the clamp at the turbo outlet and letting the down pipe drop some.
The entire area is easily accessed with the RF tire/wheel removed.
This access point is also the method of choice when changing the starter.
Removing the rubber inner fender flap is easy, and new push in barb buttons are cheap at the parts house if yours break.
A suitable cover plate to go over the access "Rat Hole" is easily made from a piece of aluminum and fastened in place by a sheet metal screw.
The heater hose clamps are also easier to get to as well.
Again *********** !!! ! ! ! ! !
Be careful when cutting the hole.
A spotter would be a good idea.
Every rig is going to be slightly different due to many factors, but close, so look, measure, mark, check again and then cut.
Just don't cut your wiring.
The rear Glow plug is a snap, and the rear injector return hose and rear cap plug can be accessed too.
Missy
This said, there has to be a better way than the above methods.
Getting ready to finish up Dahooooley, the real issue of getting to the back glow plug was going to be tough with my one screwed up paw.
A left hand will not reach up beyond the down pipe and grab the Glow plug, wire or.
Soooooooo, I went to thinking.
This is a sweeeeeeet easy solution.
Cut a Rat hole in the inner fender as follows.
I did some measuring and serious looking since the turbo is not on yet.
Using the next to the bottom rubber flap retainer button hole as a reference point.
Go from the center of the button hole up 1 inch and drill a 1/4 inch hole
Then go straight back 4 inches (use the torsion bar in the down position as a reference point to parallel)
On the front edge follow the curve around leaving about 3/8" of metal behind the little dip where the rubber flap fits, as this keeps the inner fender sturdy.
The lower edge of the cut is 3-3/4" below the top cut (Measuring down the front)
The back edge is 3" to the rear, then connect the top and bottom, following the natural curve of the inner fenders form in that area.
The top cut goes fairly close to the main wiring harness
So be careful, lest you screw up your wiring :eek::eek::eek:
The piccy shows my harness well as it has a red wrap on it.
The pix have explanations on them.
Also is a great shot of the Starter front hanger bracket area with the red colored bolt in the block.
To get at the #8 glow plug may require removing the clamp at the turbo outlet and letting the down pipe drop some.
The entire area is easily accessed with the RF tire/wheel removed.
This access point is also the method of choice when changing the starter.
Removing the rubber inner fender flap is easy, and new push in barb buttons are cheap at the parts house if yours break.
A suitable cover plate to go over the access "Rat Hole" is easily made from a piece of aluminum and fastened in place by a sheet metal screw.
The heater hose clamps are also easier to get to as well.
Again *********** !!! ! ! ! ! !
Be careful when cutting the hole.
A spotter would be a good idea.
Every rig is going to be slightly different due to many factors, but close, so look, measure, mark, check again and then cut.
Just don't cut your wiring.
The rear Glow plug is a snap, and the rear injector return hose and rear cap plug can be accessed too.
Missy