PDA

View Full Version : Marine Injectors



nigeljones
01-13-2005, 18:19
I have 150,000 miles on my 96 2500 Suburban 6.5 and I

Dvldog 8793
01-13-2005, 20:14
Howdy
If it was me I would stick with everything stock, it seems to have worked for you so far and if it keeps you happy why change a good thing. The Marine injectors don't really show much improvement without other major modifications. I think it is probably time for you change the stock injectors though.
Not a tough job but plan for a good day....
L8r
Conley

nigeljones
01-14-2005, 09:51
Thanks, thats what my (Gas)mechanic buddy who does most of my wrenching says. "KISS" Although in replacing the injectors I'm trying to resolve my latest drivability issue hesitation at around 55-65mph. And poor starting when cold.

I would like to upgrade the truck though to improve towing capability ie a little more power and improved cooling. Thats why I thought about the marine injectors.

Dvldog 8793
01-14-2005, 12:23
Howdy
Stick with the new stock injectors(after 150,000 its due). Open up the exhaust and air intake, it will make a night/day difference. Might want to upgrade the gauges also. Many of the vendors found on this page can help you. Power is just a question of money, how much do you want to spend? :D
L8r
Conley

nigeljones
01-16-2005, 13:58
Thanks I think I will take your advice. I can put the difference in $ toward the exhaust and gages.

HoosierGMC2500
01-17-2005, 13:29
I have recently noticed the same hesitation at 50/55 MPH. Did you find out what it was? I was also planning on new injectors since I am at 138K miles. I had the same question on marine vs stock so thanks for asking and I plan on stock now.

Please let me know on the hesitation question if you have discovered a cause/

Thanks

arrowheadracing
01-17-2005, 14:42
I ve been wondering the same thing about stock vs marine injectors. So far most of the mods I ve done helped, but the 6.5 is really still a boat anchor as far as any performance is concerned. Just seems like bang for the buck , I should have bought a dmax and modified that , or could have left it stock and been at a better performance level then my moded 6.5. BTW I have 140,000 on mine , and I am sure the injectors have never been changed.

Thanks
Todd

rjschoolcraft
01-17-2005, 14:57
I have achieved 6.5 performance that beats a stock Duramax in the mid range...without going into the engine. I recently suffered a failure that resulted from high EGT before the modifications. With this opportunity, I should be able to get more...

Tough Guy
01-17-2005, 19:55
Anyone with a 6.5L/6.2L should be using a fuel additive for lubricity, injector cleaner, and Cetane boost. This will significantly increase injector/pump life.

I would be concerned that only replacing injectors and having an IP (injector pump) with high miles could make your starting problems worse, because of the injection pressures it takes to "pop" the new injectors open...

The stock injectors are capable of making alot more power with just ECM upgrades.

I installed a Turbo Master and Maxi-Tork chip this weekend in my brother-in-laws 6.5L Blazer and Wow! big difference, this truck has 150,000 on the clock. Stock injectors. He runs fuel additive and (knock on wood) hasn't had any trouble.

Side note: With the chip the EGT's were much lower than stock...


Cheers

nigeljones
01-18-2005, 11:31
I have now purchased new stock injectors and plan to put them on this weekend. However, on taking the advice of others, I ran some cetene boost and injector cleaner/lub from Amsoil this weekend, when going up north and it ran as smooth as silk. I was very happy smile.gif .

I must add at 8 deg F it started easily on Saturday but on Sunday at a similar temp was hard to start. I have replaced the glow plugs with factory parts and also replaced the glow plug controller and still get an inconsistant start when cold, generating a lot of smoke. redface.gif It seems that kennedy and others have hotter plugs that I might try next.

The IP has only 30,000 miles on it, as I had it replaced under warrenty. My issue probably boils down to two things 1)injectors or 2)the fuel soloniod in the IP as I'm told. So I'm approaching it from the lowest cost perspective and after 150,000 miles it seems like the injectors may need maintenace. The IP soloniod, I'm not sure is serviceable, but apparently from poor lubrication the shaft can become galled and stick. I get the trouble codes 1216 & 1217 Fuel Soloniod short - Fuel Soloniod Long from time to time.

I may have different issues going on here, but thats an update and I will keep you posted.

Thanks for all the help

Tough Guy
01-18-2005, 15:25
You can replace the FSD (Fuel Solenoid Driver) alone. I would buy the package deal with the remote cooler option too. Several advertisers here sell them.

Cheers

gmctd
01-19-2005, 09:56
New factory 60G's are noted cold hard-starters, without extended glow duration.

New injectors should restore some lost power and fuel economy.

nigeljones
01-19-2005, 11:14
GMTCD are you saying that the 60g's are not very good for cold starting. If that's so do you know what GM would have used in the 1996 model year.

Tough Guy I was refering to the Fuel Soloniod within the pump. I have already replaced the FSD/PMD with remote cooler

Again thanks to all for the input it is greatly appreciated

DmaxMaverick
01-19-2005, 11:45
Nigel


GMTCD are you saying that the 60g's are not very good for cold starting. If that's so do you know what GM would have used in the 1996 model year.
The 60's are good plugs, they just take longer to heat. If you use them in a stock system that wasn't originally equipped with them, you may need to extend your glow times or increase the voltage (easy to do on a stock CUCV). Kennedy Quick Heats offer similar durability as the 60's, but heat much, much quicker without the extended time.

1996 is a grey area for me, but I believe they were 11G's. They are better than anything before and don't swell, but fail often, compared to 60's and QH's.

nigeljones
01-19-2005, 17:04
DmaxMaverick

Is the CUCV the glow plug controller, if so, how do you adjust it. I have a spare one, which I could fiddle with.

Thanks

DmaxMaverick
01-19-2005, 17:33
CUCV (Commercial Utility Cargo Vehicle, or something to that effect) is an acronym to describe consumer designed vehicles used in military service. It includes pickups, Blazers/Jimmy's, and such, from consumer manufacturers like the big 3.

The reason I mentioned them is due their electrical systems. They are 24 volts in their military configuration. 60G's can hold 24 volts for an indefinate period of time without blowing. I've seen 60G's side by side, one with 12V ane one with 24V. The 24V heated in 1/4 the time and was many times hotter than the 12V. This was by no means scientific, just a garage test. We left them both on for about 10 minutes and neither seemed to suffer from the test. There has to be some limit, so it is safe to assume that if a plug were run at 24V regularly, it would fail sooner than at 12V.

Theoretically, you could wire your glow plug system to operate at 24V with our rigs. It would have to be isolated from the rest of the electrical system, but I think it would be benefical if your needs are that extreme. There are other solutions that are less drastic.

nigeljones
01-19-2005, 18:03
Peninsular Diesel have a programable Glow Plug controller that I was told cycles longer 25 sec.

So with the 60g's would this be a solution

or keep the stock controller and buy a new set of quick heat plugs

The cost is about the same.

Tough Guy
01-19-2005, 20:32
Do both: add quick heats and add more glow time.

I run 20 seconds in the winter with the 60's and I have a Dmax intake heater that I want to install soon...

The Power Stroke I have glows for up to 2 minutes depending on temps (wait to start light goes out in 5-10 seconds)

Cheers,

The "Boy" TG ;)

nigeljones
01-20-2005, 17:59
TG

How do you get 20 sec's in the winter please explain

Thanks

Kennedy
01-21-2005, 07:55
With my plugs you seldom need extended glow time. Personally, I prefer a manual momentary contact pushbutton on a HD "continuous duty primary" solenoid wired to output to the output terminal of the OE controller.

mklein
01-21-2005, 09:17
I wired a resistor in line with the sense line for my mechanical (read, non electronic) glow plug controller. I belive it was a 4-5 ohm, 1/4 watt. Added plenty of time to fire my 18 to 1 engine, even on the below zero f days we have had.