Give me a brake....

[chessy56]

Here we go. '01 Silverado, 350K miles. The calipers/disks/pads have been replaced a time or two, but it's time for a deeper dive into the system. I've heard the rubber brake lines are probably expanding under heavy braking, robbing some of the force intended for the brake pads. But what about the master cylinder?

What's the opinion on replacing the MC along with the rubber hoses at each of the corners and the one above the rear axle? Also, being that all of these hoses are "original", would I expect difficulty in replacing them (i.e., will I have to replace the steel lines going to them)?

What's the community's experience on this one?

[More Power]

Here we go. '01 Silverado, 350K miles. The calipers/disks/pads have been replaced a time or two, but it's time for a deeper dive into the system. I've heard the rubber brake lines are probably expanding under heavy braking, robbing some of the force intended for the brake pads. But what about the master cylinder?

What's the opinion on replacing the MC along with the rubber hoses at each of the corners and the one above the rear axle? Also, being that all of these hoses are "original", would I expect difficulty in replacing them (i.e., will I have to replace the steel lines going to them)?

What's the community's experience on this one?

Might not be a bad idea to replace all of the rubber hoses and the MC. I would recommend though that you familiarize yourself with the braking system bleeding procedure. The ABS system adds a layer of complexity.

Jim

[chessy56]

Good point on the ABS system. What I was intending to do was to get to the point where I could get most of the air out of the lines, then take it into my local dealership and have them power bleed everything out. It's worth the ($100) or so to have that done by someone who's got equipment and knows what to look for.

I'll do some digging on the procedure on-line and see what comes up....
Thanks!

[Kennedy]

I highly recommend Car Quest GMD series pads or Raybestos Super Stopper pads. No fancy ceramics or anything else just freshly machined rotors, lubed slide pins, and true up the piston contact surface. Also file the notches in the pads so they float freely.

Hoses not a bad idea IF you can separate them w/o rust issues. I would do a one off/one on quickly routine to avoid bleeding issues. It should gravity bleed just fine and you can let it run until all new fluid has been run through.

You can always try it without changing the MC and see how that does first. If (and I assume they will be) the lines are rusty I would do the mechanical brake job first and test before the hydraulics are touched. You might find that the CQ pads improve the feel and response.

[chessy56]

According to Raybestos, the Super Stoppers have been discontinued and replaced by something more technologically advanced. From what I'm seeing, ceramics are the only pads available for the rears on my 2500HD, but I can find semi-metallic for the front. If I want the Raybestos brand, I have to go to a ware-house type operation- like Summit Racing or Amazon. JC Whitney does carry some of the Raybestos stuff, but the smaller shops and big box stores will not carry the same parts recommended by Raybestos (they make a "store brand" equivalent which they'll sell to the Car Quests and the like). Amazon isn't bad for part prices- you just have to wait a bit longer for delivery if you want the free shipping.

You have to watch who you talk to at Raybestos. One dude will tell you one thing while another will tell you something different. I got 3 different recommendations from 3 different guys at tech support. The more realistic recommendation will come from the guy who's got the most experience and knows the vehicles inside and out. The others seem to be paging through data listed on their web site. Frustrating experience.