Bolt hole for starter motor sheared off (pic)

[drndsmith]

Hi,

I acquired a 1988 Chevy Suburban, 6.2L diesel not long ago, 365k. Was having starting problems (intermittent power to starter motor). After ruling a couple other things out, I thought it might be the starter motor solenoid. So, I removed the starter motor and discovered that the bolt had been welded to the (former) bolt hole, part of which had been sheared off of the engine block. The previous own had also welded a bracket on the starter motor body so it was braced against the engine block.

http://i.imgur.com/BK3M0ai.jpg

So, I don't want to just weld another bolt on there and I don't want to have to replace the entire engine block. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[sctrailrider]

That isn't good at all, the block doesn't look fixable by the pic.. that is what happens when someone doesn't use the front brace on the starter...

With the corner broke off you might be needing a block...

[Robyn]

This is a prime example of the term "Fugly"

My condolences.


I repaired a block that had the outer hole broken out, but the engine was out, apart and the block bare.

I machined the area, added a fabricated and machined plate, plus some counter sunk bolts to finish the attachment.

It was a nearly new engine block that had seen a starter fail and the front bracket not replaced.

You have some tough thinking to due on this one.

Really no way to fix it in the rig.

With the engine out of the truck, you might be able to grind out the area where the bolt hole is, then fabricate a block to go in the notch with a plate that would go up the side of the block an drill and tap holes to allow the plate to hold the new part to the block.

Use counter sunk holes with grade 8 allen flat head bolts, ads this will stabilize the part.

Make your side plate at least 1/2" thick.

This is basically what I did, but I also machined the starter mounting surface down and then added a 1/4" plate across the entire surface to strengthen the whole addition.

Definitely want to get the front brace on the thing


Missy

[drndsmith]

Well, well. Thank you for confirming what I feared. Not sure what I want to do here, but oh well...

[Robyn]

This is definitely an awe $hit Frank

[Kennedy]

Hard to see if there's any thread left, but it looks like you could drill/tap a bit deeper and use a longer bolt. You could also look to add a dowel pin to index and take the side strain off of the stud/block at this point. This dowel could be independent of the bolt hole.


All much easier with the engine out and on a stand of course.

[Kennedy]

You know I got to thinking, I wonder if you could use a stud in this hole and still get the starter fed up over it? With the lower cover off the trans it looks doable. You'd still need to drill/tap deeper, but you could also consider attempting to weld the stud in place for extra stability.

[arveetek]

I repaired a block that had the outer hole broken out, but the engine was out, apart and the block bare.



Ditto. Years ago I purchased a used 6.2L engine from a salvage yard, and started the rebuild process for swapping into my '77 Blazer. I realized upon prepping for the machine shop that the outer ear was completely broken off. Luckily, the machine shop was able to weld/braze the area and repair it for me. Again, the engine was already out of the truck, and I don't see a way to do this type of repair with the block still in the vehicle.

However, I like John's ideas above. I would definitely try those first before yanking the engine.

Casey

[Kennedy]

I have to wonder about some JB weld with the stud idea. Don't laugh, but I actually ported through the wall of the exhaust port on a chainsaw cylinder and JB'd it with very good success. This was my Husqvarna 359 a very solid performer and much better ported. I did use this cylinder for a while until I found a deal on a new OE piston and cylinder. It held up just fine. In this case you'd need to build a "form" to hold the stuff in place around the stud until it cured.

One key is having some inside and out like >< so you may want to drill some small holes for grab pockets.

I wonder if the release agent like they use for bedding guns would keep the stud from adhering?

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy

As to the JB weld idea. I have used it for many projects as well but found it not suitable for things that get allot of torsional stress like the starter boss would. If it was just going to fill a void and didn't need to be load bearing that might be an option. Also it is kinda like cement, if you can use some .035 stainless welding wire and create a mesh to tie everything together, it makes it MUCH stronger. Maybe even stick the wires into the worm holes that John was talking about.

There are several types release agents that could be used when bedding a stock. I think the best one for this would be the gel type. The important part is to try to keep the agent intact. If you scratch it up or smear it off, then it's game over.

If it was mine I would take the engine out and weld it up, and remachine it. welding cast is tricky but a GOOD welder can do it right. I have gas and tig welded allot of cast, the important part is matching the base metal as close as possible and then try not to heat shock the casting . let cool down slowly.

Good luck!