6.2L engine replacement

[3ace]

Hi,
Looking for a reference guide on how to remove a 6.2L engine from a 1991 Chevy V2500 4x4 Suburban.
Thanks.
Merrill

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
I can't recommend any other guides then the Dieselpage books of a Haynes manual.
You have an easy truck to pull the motor,lots of working room and no turbo.
First spray PB Blaster on all exhaust bolts.
Drain oil,antifreeze and remove the rad.
Remove the wiring,alt,starter,power steering pump and air con pump.The Air con pump and power steering don't need the hoses removed,just wire the pumps off to the side out of the way.
Remove the oil lines,and fuel lines.
If automatic remove the cover from the bell housing and unbolt the tourqu converter from flywheel and push it back towards the trany,you may want to remove the glow plugs to make turning the motor over easyer.Support the trany with a jack or......you will have to adjust the height as you raise the motor.
Remove the bell housing bolts
Remove the motor mount bolts,there are one on each side.
Then you should be able to lift the motor up a couple of inches and pull it forward then up and out of there.
If you haven't done one before,take pictures before and during removal.Use plastic bags to hold bolts and fasteners,label them so you know where they come from ie.all bell housing bolts in a bag marked bell housing bolts,then you aren't looking in a can of bolts trying to figure out which ones go where.
See Easy Peasy
Good Luck Thomas
I just saw your turbo in your sig,remove it when you do the exhaust stuff,seems like i skipped the step of removing the exhaust,do it near the end so the spray has lots of time to work.I would remove the turbo,or the turbo and manifold to keep from damaging it.

[3ace]

Hi
I can't recommend any other guides then the Dieselpage books of a Haynes manual.
You have an easy truck to pull the motor,lots of working room and no turbo.
First spray PB Blaster on all exhaust bolts.
Drain oil,antifreeze and remove the rad.
Remove the wiring,alt,starter,power steering pump and air con pump.The Air con pump and power steering don't need the hoses removed,just wire the pumps off to the side out of the way.
Remove the oil lines,and fuel lines.
If automatic remove the cover from the bell housing and unbolt the tourqu converter from flywheel and push it back towards the trany,you may want to remove the glow plugs to make turning the motor over easyer.Support the trany with a jack or......you will have to adjust the height as you raise the motor.
Remove the bell housing bolts
Remove the motor mount bolts,there are one on each side.
Then you should be able to lift the motor up a couple of inches and pull it forward then up and out of there.
If you haven't done one before,take pictures before and during removal.Use plastic bags to hold bolts and fasteners,label them so you know where they come from ie.all bell housing bolts in a bag marked bell housing bolts,then you aren't looking in a can of bolts trying to figure out which ones go where.
See Easy Peasy
Good Luck Thomas
I just saw your turbo in your sig,remove it when you do the exhaust stuff,seems like i skipped the step of removing the exhaust,do it near the end so the spray has lots of time to work.I would remove the turbo,or the turbo and manifold to keep from damaging it.

Thomas,
Thanks a million for your response, helps me out. This will be my first engine pull!

[Yukon6.2]

Hi Merrill
If this is your first one.......you picked a simple one to lose your cherry on:D
Just take your time,don't force anything till you double checked that everything is undone.
Make sure you document,or take pic's,and keep your bolts/fasteners separated and marked.
After you drain your rad you will still have coolant in the engine so be prepared for it to spill out as you move the engine around.If you aren't concerned about the old motor punch out a frost plug after the rad is drained,i always hate the residual fluid making a mess were you are working.
Anyhow if you run into a problem post it and someone will help.Take your time and double check.Over the years i have seen the result of people that havn't done the work before,destroy parts by rushing.Once saw a chevy small block head that someone took off.They didn't know that there are a row of bolts outside the valve cover under the grease.Not sure how big the bar was that they used to pry the head off.But they did manage to break the head off without removing the last row of bolts.
Thomas

[3ace]

Hi Merrill
If this is your first one.......you picked a simple one to lose your cherry on:D
Just take your time,don't force anything till you double checked that everything is undone.
Make sure you document,or take pic's,and keep your bolts/fasteners separated and marked.
After you drain your rad you will still have coolant in the engine so be prepared for it to spill out as you move the engine around.If you aren't concerned about the old motor punch out a frost plug after the rad is drained,i always hate the residual fluid making a mess were you are working.
Anyhow if you run into a problem post it and someone will help.Take your time and double check.Over the years i have seen the result of people that havn't done the work before,destroy parts by rushing.Once saw a chevy small block head that someone took off.They didn't know that there are a row of bolts outside the valve cover under the grease.Not sure how big the bar was that they used to pry the head off.But they did manage to break the head off without removing the last row of bolts.
Thomas

Again Thomas thank you for your guidance. I'll be following it precisely!:)
Hopefully I won't need to post for help again!!:D

[3ace]

What is a good way to remove valve covers and oil pan that has been put on with RTV only without damaging covers and pan for reinstallation?
Thanks.

[Yukon6.2]

A sharp thin blade like a fillet knife or small box cutter.Get a little opening and work your way around.
Don't use any gaskets when you put them back on,just the best RTV you can buy.
Thomas

[3ace]

A sharp thin blade like a fillet knife or small box cutter.Get a little opening and work your way around.
Don't use any gaskets when you put them back on,just the best RTV you can buy.
Thomas

Thomas,
Got it!!
Thanks.
Merrill

[3ace]

Hi,
When attaching the chain sling to engine for removal or install where on the engine would be the best attach points.
I just removed it yesterday and attached the chain sling to the rear right corner to the front left corner and it wanted to come out at about a 45 degree angle instead of straight out.
Thanks.
Merrill

[Yukon6.2]

After you do a few you kind of get a feel of where the center of the wieght is.
I use a ratchet strap to fine tune the angles when installing by myself.Just hook it to the low side and ratchet it up to the angle you need.
Thomas

[3ace]

After you do a few you kind of get a feel of where the center of the wieght is.
I use a ratchet strap to fine tune the angles when installing by myself.Just hook it to the low side and ratchet it up to the angle you need.
Thomas

Again, Thomas to the rescue. Many thanks for your tips.
Have a great day.:)

[3ace]

Would it be possible to relocate the 6.2L oil sending unit that sits at the upper left end of the block via a hose and would it still have an accurate oil pressure reading? Since I have the engine out it's much easier to do it now. They're not fun to change while in the vehicle.
Thanks.
Merrill

[DmaxMaverick]

Nothing wrong with that. I've done it on several engines. The engineers put it there, looking at it on a stand, not in a vehicle, with no regard for the later need of maintenance. Use a sturdy hose (SS braid, etc.) or what I prefer, a short section of SS line, properly bent and secured. Don't use the "typical" nylon tubing many kits include. Many older mechanical gage kits included 1/8" copper tubing, which would be acceptable.

[3ace]

Nothing wrong with that. I've done it on several engines. The engineers put it there, looking at it on a stand, not in a vehicle, with no regard for the later need of maintenance. Use a sturdy hose (SS braid, etc.) or what I prefer, a short section of SS line, properly bent and secured. Don't use the "typical" nylon tubing many kits include. Many older mechanical gage kits included 1/8" copper tubing, which would be acceptable.

Thanks DmaxMaverick!

[3ace]

When installing the fuel lines from my old engine to the newer engine i was able to get the lines to tighten up at the injectors okay but their height passing through the intake manifold was at a higher height than the old engine therefore I couldn't install their respective hold down clamps between the intake manifold studs.
Any opinions on whether or not I should use or not use these fuel lines as their installed?
Thanks.
Merrill

[3ace]

Nothing wrong with that. I've done it on several engines. The engineers put it there, looking at it on a stand, not in a vehicle, with no regard for the later need of maintenance. Use a sturdy hose (SS braid, etc.) or what I prefer, a short section of SS line, properly bent and secured. Don't use the "typical" nylon tubing many kits include. Many older mechanical gage kits included 1/8" copper tubing, which would be acceptable.

Thanks DmaxMaverick,
Relocated using 3/8" steel braided hose with AN fittings down to the frame rail and is working perfectly. Used a T fitting with the Sending Unit at the center. Hose coming from original oil sender location going into one side and I have an engine prelude canister attached to the other end. With the engine running it forces oil into the canister using an electrical check valve to hold the oil and pressure supplied by the oil pump. With electrical power supplied to the canister check valve it lets the pressurized oil back to the engine for prelude before engine start up.

[3ace]

Engine swap is completed, running well and sounds good with an exception. While trying to adjust idle speed to 700 rpm from 500-600 rpm I have to turn in adjusting screw while in the out position at least 6 full revolutions which then affects the fast idle rpms. I don't know exactly how that adjustment screw works but I thought the two adjustments while using the same adjustment screw were independent of each other because to adjust Fast Idle you need to push in on the adjustment screw. When I finally get to 700 idle rpm and press in the adjustment screw for the fast idle adjustment it already goes to 1500-1700 rpm's. When I back it out to get about 800-900 fast idle rpm's the idle rpm's drop to 500-600 rpm's. Does this mean there is something internally wrong inside the Injection Pump or is the adjustment screw mechanism bad?
Thanks. :confused:

[3ace]

I also forgot to mention this problem. When starting cold engine starts up right away but after engine is warm and glow plugs are not needed engine starts after a few cranks and not like when it was cold. I set timing marks of the IP to timing cover on top of each other.
Thanks.