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Dvldog 8793
10-14-2004, 04:33
Howdy
Any opinion on the safety of running synthetic oil in a new engine? The engine in question has about 2000 miles on it. I have heard of break-in problems with synthetic oil but then again some engines come with it from the factory. I never ran Syn in the old engine because of leak issues but hopefully that won't be a problem. :D
thanks in advance.
L8r
Conley Janssen

Billman
10-14-2004, 04:47
Opinions??

You came to the right place. Everyone's got one. Especially with Synthetic oil.

Mine? I don't use it. I change oil far too frequently to justify cost. Filtration/Change frequency is more important to me.

But from what I've read, Synthetic is far superior to Dino.

Dvldog 8793
10-14-2004, 15:17
Howdy
Not looking to start another "oil debate" ! I just need to know if running synthetic in my new block will effect break in. With 2000 miles on it I'm pretty sure it's seated and sealed. just trying to get any opinions on the "NEW" engine thing. I probably will run it in the coldest months. As that's the only time that I think I will benifit from it.
Thanks
L8r
Conley Janssen

eracers999
10-14-2004, 21:46
2000 mi you are good to go.

Kent

radrecon69
10-15-2004, 04:49
Ok let me tell you what my mechanic said I bought a new engine and for some odd reason it still uses a quart every 600-700 miles i started using rotella syn. at 1000 miles. I have almost 10.000 miles on this engine now he told me last week to stop using syn. oil until the rings are good and set and that running syn. oil is not allowing my rings to set. now with that being said my other 6.5 running syn. from the very start it took almost 12.000 miles for it to quit using oil between oil changes. My next oil change I think I will try a syn oil mix like Schaeffer's or Castrol and see if it helps.

Rick

rjwest
10-15-2004, 06:27
I'm sure this does not apply,
Anyway, Aircraft engines use " Mineral "
the old fashion oil, for engine break in.
The purpose is to seat the rings.
If oil is to SLICK no friction, rings don't
seat, cylinders glaze, eng burns oil.

Procedure is to run eng hard, above 75%.
until oil consumption stalizes....

Than go to prefered oil ,

I don't know Manufactures reccomendation, But the new vehicles I have purchased, I have tryed to run the engine in at highway speeds, Never had an oil user.

moondoggie
10-15-2004, 07:27
Good Day!

Back in the late 60's & early 70's, when I 1st started getting interested in such things, Amzoil (yeah, they used to use a "z" instead of an "s" - Penzoil sued them & they changed their spelling) said don't use their synthetic oil until > 6000 miles for a gas engine & > 40,000 miles for a diesel. I believe ring seating was the reason given.

I have NO IDEA if this still applies or not. I would suggest it has almost everything to do with whether the rings in new diesel engines need to be seated or not, or how long that might take, & nothing to do with the synthetic oil.

I wouldn't put synthetic oil in anything I own that was new without being absolutely sure about this point. What do you lose by using non-synthetic until you're sure? Nothing that I can see.

By the way, I use Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in everything we have.

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044

Kennedy
10-15-2004, 09:13
Use as soon as you are confident that you can run drain intervals sufficient to justify the cost. I like to dump early on new engines, otherwise, I'd run it from new...

jbell
10-15-2004, 10:39
I agree on the 'run it hard to seat the rings' comment. Whenever we've rebuilt a diesel tractor motor, (cat motors have a nasty habbit of sticking an injector and scoring a cylinder VERY quickly. However, plumbing the fuel return line directly infront of the injection pump fixes that problem: stuck injector = air bubble, which airlocks IP, which equals a motor that shuts down immediatly!!)
Regardless -- the very first thing we do after rebuild is find an implement 50% too large, and pull the P!#$ out of it for an hour or two at varying rpms.

Go find a 10K pound trailer and some hills.....

Dvldog 8793
10-15-2004, 11:15
Howdy
THANKS for all the info. I 'm fairly sure that it's broke in pretty good. I did the pull the P!$$ out it more than a couple times after the first 1000 miles. The first 1000 I just drove it fairly hard at varing RPM. Anyways I plan on using Mobile1 delvac as I think it is the most readily available true synthetic. I only plan on running this in the winter months. I do have a bypass filter so drain intervals are an issue of how long I can stand to wait! :D Probably about 7000 miles or so with a filter change in there someplace.
Thanks again!
L8r
Conley Janssen
USMC 87-93

JohnC
10-15-2004, 13:12
Most of the ring seating will happen in the first few hours of operation, especially if you run it hard. One of the ring manufacturers used to include the following "break-in instructions": "make 3 full throttle runs from 20 to 50 mph. No further break-in is necessary."

Problem is, if you have a new truck, running hard for the first 1000 miles or so will cause the ring and pinion to run hot. That (ring and pinion) is what takes a long time to break in. Unlikely it'll overheat in a couple of brief full throttle runs, though, especially if you let it cool down between each run.

Comments, Dr Lee?

CleviteKid
10-15-2004, 13:55
Why do I need to comment when y'all got it just right? A few hard accel runs, and the rings are seated. If you are NOT pulling a 10K trailer during those few hard runs, then the R&P will be just fine. I recommend 5 miles of easy driving between each of the hard pulls, to even out the temperatures in the engine, and in the rear pumpkin too.

Modern synthetic diesel oils are great things for Northern trucks in the winter. Minnesota qualifies as Northern. It will be in the 20's in Frostbite Falls, I mean International Falls, tonite.

If you let your turbo get really HOT, or let your engine get really COLD, you should be using synthetic motor oil.

Dr. Lee :cool:

JeepSJ
10-15-2004, 14:15
2000 miles - it is as broken in as it is going to get...now its just wearing out.

I am totally sold on synthetics. Back in the days when I worked for an IMSA team, we saw dramatic differences in wear between conventional and synthetic oils with only 3 hours of use. OK, that was 3 hard racing hours on a turbo-charged 4cyl, but that was enough to convince me. The difference really showed after the 24 hour races. We had an oil company as one of our sponsors...they didn't have a synthetic at the time, so we ran Mobil 1. We were also sponsored by certain spark plug...we didn't run those either.

moedog
10-19-2004, 18:19
MOBIL 1 DELVAC FULL SYNTHETIC DIESEL OIL IS THE BEST PERIOD. PUT IT IN, CHANGE IT EVERY 5 TO 7000 MILES WITH A GOOD FILTER AND DONT PUT ANY ADDITIVES IN IT. DOESNT NEED THEM. IF YOUR ENGINE QUITS IT WONT BE BECAUSE OF OIL FAILURE. THIS STUFF IS JUST PLAIN AMAZING. ALL THE NEW CORVETTES COME WITH THE GAS MOBIL 1 IN THEM FROM THE FACTORY. NOUGH SAID!!!