Amsoil users - synthetic attacks RTV?

[Big Red Suburban]

I just ordered a bunch of amsoil for changing the fluids in my axles and transfer case and after I placed the order I noticed the following note (amsoil text from webpage is listed below for my vehicle):

7. Do not use synthetic lubricant in axles using RTV sealant. Synthetic lubricant will chemically atack RTV sealant.

What did you use to seal the rear diff pan to the axle? I've always used RTV along with the gasket. Also, did you replace the axle shaft hub RTV with the mentioned GM gasket instead?

Thanks....


1995 CHEVROLET TRUCKS SUBURBAN 6.5L 8-cyl VIN Code F - TURBODiesel

FILTERS
Oil Filter......SDF24
Oil Vapor Filter......N/R
Air Filter......TS83
Fuel Filter......FF943
Fuel Vapor Filter......N/R
Trans......TF113, 4L60E
Trans......TF91, 4L80E

BOSCH SPARK PLUGS
All submodels
Wire......NR
Plug......NA

BOSCH WIPER BLADES
Driver side......B40918
Passenger side......B40918
Rear window......B40913

CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Two-wheel drive
8-12 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LB
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
Four-wheel drive
8-16 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LB
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......CG-4
SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
Synthetic Blend 15W-40 Diesel Oil
Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil
Above 0

[arrowheadracing]

Just for extra grins, I switched all my fluids in one of my Heavy street strip cars. I didnt change the engine oil since it gets changed after every race or once during a long eliminations event.

So here goes. I changed the trans fluid and instantly got leaks. I changed the rear end fluid and was leaking within a week. The car actually ran slower with the synthetic then conventional fluids. ( go figure , cost twice as much ). I thought heck with it and left it in. 6 passes on the trans and the it twisted the case and cracked the trans in a spiral crack from front to back. Ruined everything in the trans $1250 out the window. Good thing it happened in the starting line not half track or the top end ( 140 mph ).

That has been my first and last experience with Amsoil in my race cars. Now my two stroke dirt bike I use thier oil mix ( was given to us by a sponsor ) and havent had any problems.

So I am not sure if I just got lucky and had the transmission blow coincidently or if it was related. The amsoil rep didnt have much to say when I called. I have heard others at the track complain about the leaks also. So I can answer one of your questions , yes it will leak.

Todd

[eracers999]

I wonder how GM gets any of their rear ends and engines to seal up. They use it all the time. Put it in and seal it up and forget about it, you'll be just fine..

Kent

[arrowheadracing]

I have some of GM's gray silicone they use for sealing up engines. I was doing a prototype job for them and they gave me 4 caulk tubes of it. After I used it, I ll never use anything else again. That stuff seals like its welded together.

Which is a point worth mentioning. My gaskets and sealant was not brand new when I installed this oil. As with most people with high mileage starting to use any synthetic, you will most likely leak oil. One reason being that synthetics do not produce "sludge" factor that conventional oils do. Oil is a cleaner as well as a lube. So after a few oil changes with synthetic oil, you might start to develop some leaks. Because now you have cleaned out alot of the inside motor. And that sludge may have been what was sealing you area. I ve seen this many times on high mileage vehicles.

But on a brand new motor, I would say synthetic oil in an everyday driver is a good thing to do, if not a must do.

My 2 cents
Thanks
Todd

[radrecon69]

I wonder if that is with all synthetic oils or just with Amsoil? I use Rotella and both of my truck leak oil and they are both brand new engines. Now my Suburban used Mobil 1 all during break-in and my Dually used Rotella during break-in

Rick

[LanduytG]

I can't begin to say how many older high mileage vehicles that I have changed over and as long as they were not leaking to start with they never did leak. No if you have and older vehicle and you have dirt stopping a leak I can tel you that it is a just matter of time because the dirt will let go you it will leak.

As for making the race car go slower you are the first that I have heard that from. A friend of mine in Canada switched his car over to your super shift in the trans and Series 2000 in the diff and picked up almost 2/10's.

As for your tranning are you sure what the condition of it was? Was it older and fluid not changer regularly? Because if it was I can bet that the synthetic cleaned the internals up and broke lose some junk and plugged something. When I change over and older trans that has not been well maintained I make sure the customer know that this could happen and then let them make the call. I does not happen very often but it does happen.

On read diffs I use Permatex black and never have a leak. I think it applies mostly to old types of RTV.

Greg

[Billman]

Todd

We use synthetic fluid in the rear ends on all our cars.

A lot of guys have also made the switch to synthetic trans fluid. I have not. You're the first I've ever heard complain about going slower. One thing we have noticed in more than one case was that the stall speed in the convereters pick up quite a bit. A few hundred RPM. This could have made yours to 'Loose'. It's just a possibility.

Now ask me about synthetic engine oil... I lost a main bearing immediately after the switch(10 passes) and kept the crank in 1 piece. Still don't know what caused it.

[arrowheadracing]

The trans had 15 passes on it. With my labor the trans was probably closer to $2000 in new parts and work. Everything was mag'ed and relieved. It was also a super t-10 with aftermarket parts. So before stepping to a lenco, I was pretty secure with it. The replacement lasted till the car was sold. ( about 1 1/2 years ). The new owner put a bottle on the motor, ran three passes in the low 8.50's and scattered the motor.

The car was very consistent running 9.40's. And for a 4 spd car was utterly amazing considering it was all old school setup.

As for changing oil in high mileage older vehichles, I refrain from that. New models with better technology can better withstand the leak. Now I am not sure when we talk high mileage older vehicles, but I am talking 60-70's. Not early 90's.

I will say that the degree angle of the pinion and the fact the car launched like bomb probably didnt help the pinion seal, and thats where it was leaking from. But my theory is the synthetic was thinner then the regular gear dope and was able to leak past the seal easier then conventional.

Billman, if the trans was an auto, I would agree with your flash theory. But it was a 4spd.

Believe me everyone I 100% believe in synthetic. But not unless the conditions are right for it. Meaning not in 200,000 + miles vehicles that are 25-30 years old.

Todd

[arrowheadracing]

Landuytg,
I would be very curious to know how fast the car was that dropped 2/10s from just an oil change. I was very happy when we picked up hundreths. But if your running 17's , picking up 2/10s is like leaving the line and holding first gear for 300 more rpm.
I just know from all my years of racing I ve never witnessed someone go faster with just oil changes ( whether it was gear , or motor oil ).

Not trying to start with anyone, just curious. I am here to learn as well as give my 2 cents.

Thanks
Todd

[LanduytG]

The car was running 13.1-13.2 and it ran vary consostant 12.9-13 after changing rear diff anf trans. The trans was a auto. With the Amsoil super shift fluid you have a very positive hard shift. The guy is now in Calgary and running a different car. I have not talk to him in a few months to see how he dod this past season.

As for your trans I really think its time was up and it just manage to happen after you change it over.

Greg

[eracers999]

A boss of mine and a close friend was running his super comp dragster at the US nationals in Topeka KS back in 98. In finals he come out of the water box and the oil lite came on, looked at the guage it read 0 psi. Staged it and made a full pass and lost in the 3rd round, so ****ed was he that he drove it back to the trailer, loaded it up and took it home, tore it down, pick up tube laying in the bottom, finished the teardown of the motor only to find it all in perfect shape, no damage on the 468 chev. The only reasone he could come up with for that is the amsoil he had in there. Made him and me both believers.
Kent

[arrowheadracing]

Kent,
Thats a good story. I also liked the comercial I think it was for slick 50. Where they had the oil pans off and ran the engines on the hoist so you could watch. But now for the truth factor ( though the super comp car would put more strain on the items ), alot of high schools have engine building contests to see how long they will last with no oil. I ve been there and built one. The engine lasted 1 hr and 20 mins before it locked. Nothing broke, in fact 20 min cool down and it ran again. No oil, no oil pan no valve covers. Very interesting, and if you think your diesel sounds bad on a cold morning....

On a quick note, I am suprised he kept running his motor with no pressure. With all the money tied up into, I would have shut it down right there.

There are too many advantages to running synthetic oil. All of them a plus to longevity.

Thanks
Todd

[Billman]

Kent

The NHRA US Nationals are held in Indy. 50 years I believe. In 1998, I think the National Event held at Topeka was called The Parts America Nationals.

Either way, being in the finals of an NHRA National Event as a Sportsman will make you do just about anything...