94 4x4 HOW TO REPLACE FRONT AXLE SEALS?

[bdv]

HAVE READ OTHER POSTING IN THE FORMS ON THE FRONT AXLE BUT NOT ON 1994 AND HAVE SOME QUESTION.
WHILE PREPARING TO REMOVE OIL PAN FOR INSTALLATION OF STUD GIRDLE (ON ORDER) NOTICE THAT THERE IS OIL COMING OUT OF AXLES (BOTH SIDES) WHERE THEY ENTER INTO FRONT DIFFERENTIAL. I ASSUME THIS MEANS THE SEALS NEED TO BE REPLACED. IT LOOKS LIKE THE AXLES SHAFTS SEPARATE ON BOTH SIDES AFTER THE DIFFERENTIAL BY REMOVING A SERIES OF BOLTS.

SHOULD THE AXLE BE TAKEN OFF TO WORK ON SEALS?

HOW DO I GET SEALS OUT AND BACK IN?

WHAT TYPE OF LUBRICATE SHOULD I USE TO FILL AND HOW MUCH?

IT LOOKS LIKE THERE IS A FILL HOLE ON THE TOP AND A DRAIN PLUG ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE DIFFERENTIAL DO I NEED NEW WASHERS/SEALS TO REPLACE OLD?

IS THERE A VENT TUBE THAT I HAVE TO DO ANYTHING WITH?

THANKS FOR THE HELP BRENT

[TJ Moose]

Well Brent - I can help you with the easy ansers (ckickening out I guess) the oil part is easier if you remove the skid plate - then indeed you are correct - the bottom bolt is a drain pluig, the upper is fill. I don't know that you have to remove the vent line unless you were pulling the whole axle out. I just did a service on mine - I put in Royal Purple that was the lighter stuff (like the multi-vis 85 weight, not the multi-vis 140). I think you're supposed to refill to within like 1/4 inch of the fill plug. If you fill all the way - you'll most likely force it out the vent on your first hiway speed run - but for me it became a self levelling proposition anyway. It stopped pushing out once it got to where it wanted to be.
Sorry I can't tell you about the seals themselves - that's one bridge I haven't had to cross yet in the old 'Burb.

[Diesel Dan]

You will need to pull the front axle assembly to remove the oil pan and replace the axle seals. Once the axle is out the seals aren't that bad to replace, and no you don't split the case to remove the axle shafts.

Here is a rundown of what it'll take to get the diff out.
Remove: skid plate, driveshaft, vent hose and electrical connectors(2). Halfshaft mounting bolts(6 per side), 4 large diff mounting bolts.

You will need to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side to get clearance past the drag link. The axle shafts don't have to be removed.

With the diff on the floor do the LH side first. The shafts are retained with an internal snap ring only. Hit the back side of the shaft with a large hammer and the shaft will come out. R&R seal. The RH is a little more tricky. Stand the diff up on the now installed LH axle. Hit the back of the RH shaft to dislodge it. When you remove it you'll notice a small pilot shaft on the end, say 1/2" or so in diameter. This locates a thrust washer down by the CAD mechanism. Look down the tube with a flash light, if it's not centered just move it around with a long screwdriver. If you pull the RH shaft with the diff laying down this shim will slide out of position.

It isn't that bad of a job, I've done many,many,many of these while at the dealer. The hardest part will be without a hoist. The 1/2 ton gassers were the easiest and the 3/4ton diesels the hardest due to the larger diff and oil pan.