New Tank

[TDSECK]

1999 Sub 4x4 2500 LS

My tank started a slow leak so i drained it and removed it to find it was quite rusted around the bottom areas where it was covered by the plastic shield. i am guessing that between the plastic and heavy metal shield the moisture has nowhere to go so it eats away at the steel tank until it starts leaking!
My tank did not appear to be zinc plated or painted that well, given the amount of rust on it.
Does anyone have a recommendation of what type of tank is best without getting yourself in trouble for naming a vendor?
One vendor had free S&H BUT did say that because it is such a big tank that you should expect a few small dents and that that was OK!
Another vendor said there tank was zinc or galvanized plated.
A well known retail auto parts chain in the S Jersey area said there tank was painted.
Has anyone replaced a tank within the last few years with any advice on this?
I was advised to use the same pick up / sender unit but the feed and return lines where so rusted it decided it was not worth the risk of having one of the lines rust out and then having to drop the tank again! So i will be buying a new sender unit also...more $$$ but what you gona do.
I figure i am saving at least $3-400.00 in labor, yes?
Is there anything worth doing when the tank is out that can be done when it is installed?
I was impressed with the heavy gauge steel used to protect the outside of the tank in my Suburban...
I am sure it is a option on Suburban's or do they all come with this steel shield?
Of course it had to start the slow leak after i toped it off with 42 Gals of fuel!
I siphoned out 90% then dropped it got a dry wall screw to tap a hole in it to drain out the rest.
I know diesel is much less flammable than gas but figured a sharp drywall screw was the safest way to punch a hole in the rusted tank to drain out the rest of the fuel.
I stored the fuel in a 55 gal plastic drum i found a work. It looked unused and very clean in side and the caps where on tight.
if i had it to do over again i would hot wire the lift pump an run a line from the pump to the storage tank.
Any advice on what tank to buy and other pointers is appreciated.

[arveetek]

The tank on my '95 Tahoe had the same problem a few years ago. I ordered a new tank from www.rockauto.com and haven't had any problems. I'm thinking it was a Dorman brand, but don't recall for sure.

I also installed a new sending unit, but beware, the aftermarket versions are not quite OEM quality. The problem I had was with the plastic mesh "sock" on the pickup tube. It's made of a different material than the OEM screen. I had a problem with the sock closing shut and causing a stalling issue. I took the sock off the old OEM unit and installed it on the new one, and life has been great since.

Casey

[wfyehl]

I just had to replace the tank on my 1996 Sub. I removed the tank and took it to a local shop that repairs them. They said the metal was too thin to repair. I had similar rusting on this tank.

I ended up buying a Spectra tank from this shop along with a sending unit. I used the sock from my old sending unit because of the advice form this site.

I ended up not putting the plastic liner back on the tank. I bought some roofing material (similar to ice and water shield) to put between the straps and the tank, and also moved the cushions from the old tank to the new.

I did put the skid plate back to help protect the tank. I had to replace the sending unit because the fuel line coming out of the tank twisted off while disconnecting the sending unit from the fuel lines.

The replacement tank did not have an baffles in it. I inquired about that, and they mentioned that none of the replacement tanks have it.

Good luck. Installation was a pain to do by myself.

[TDSECK]

Does your new non baffled tank have any draw backs in your truck?
Why didn’t you reinstall the plastic liner on your new tank?
Thanks for help.


New question:



My fuel tank rusted out and the sender unit feed and return lines where so rusted I replaced that too.
But the female fittings from the feed and return hose are very rusted also.



I do not want to install the new tank with old fittings that are very rusted as I figure they will fail very soon.

Does any one know of a repair kit that I can buy so I don’t have to spend $300.00 on 2 new lines from Chevy?
All I need is the OEM type female ends for the 3/8" and 5/16” lines that would connect to the hose lines with a small hose clamp.

[wfyehl]

Does your new non baffled tank have any draw backs in your truck?
- I haven't noticed any issues without the baffles. I don't normally run my tank below 1/2 full, but I did a few weeks ago, and didn't notice low fuel issues.

Why didn’t you reinstall the plastic liner on your new tank?
- Since the rust on my tank was between the plastic liner and the tank, I decided it prevent water and debris from collecting between the tank and the liner. Since the plastic liner was ~1/8" thick, I used the roofing material between the tank and the mounting straps. This prevents chaffing of the tank, and allows the tank to be tightened without having that 1/8" gap or looseness.

Now your other question: I didn't have that issue. My fuel line coming out of the sending unit was rusted, but the lines going from the tank forward were still in decent shape.




Does your new non baffled tank have any draw backs in your truck?
Why didn’t you reinstall the plastic liner on your new tank?
Thanks for help.


New question:



My fuel tank rusted out and the sender unit feed and return lines where so rusted I replaced that too.
But the female fittings from the feed and return hose are very rusted also.



I do not want to install the new tank with old fittings that are very rusted as I figure they will fail very soon.

Does any one know of a repair kit that I can buy so I don’t have to spend $300.00 on 2 new lines from Chevy?
All I need is the OEM type female ends for the 3/8" and 5/16” lines that would connect to the hose lines with a small hose clamp.