Rotors & Pads. Replacement for 2002 GMC 2500HD

[CareyK]

I need valued opinions for the brakes on my 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax (4X4). The truck has 275,000 Kms. I am going to replace the rotors & pads. After "Googling" to find the best quality parts, I am now more confused/puzzled of what to buy. I am leaning towards staying with GM Delco OE (original equipment) since I got long life out of my first set. After speaking with a GM parts person, he said their OE parts are their best. They carry the cheaper Durastop but these are not OE. Having said all this, I am reading reports on the internet that even the Delco OE rotors are made in China now!! I am not sure about the pads. So I am not sure if the OE rotors are made in China. I also read that the best Napa rotors are made in China too. From what I've read, the rotors made in China are not the high quality that we have been used to when the rotors were made in the USA or Canada.
There is a company called EBC which is an England company that makes rotors and are highly recommended. Are there any great rotors made in the USA or Canada? I don't want drilled or slotted rotors, just the standard design, but the BEST standard design.
On a final note, I need/want great breaking since I tow a 10,000 lb. 5th wheel through the Rocky Mountains. Also what is the best pad material for towing in these extreme conditions? After searching the internet, people are suggesting not to use ceramic pads.
Your opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Carey

[More Power]

I'm an easy driver where brakes are concerned. They last a long time. One concern I've heard about rear OE rotors is a rust/corrosion problem some owners have experienced. Trucks in the rust belt experience more rear rotor problems, and I've often wondered why auto manufacturers don't create a cast alloy that is more rust/corrosion resistant. It appears they have. Whether they are available for these trucks is another question.

GM has recognized the problem. You can read more about it here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=rust+resistant+GM+brake+rotors&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&oq=rust+resistant+GM+brake+rotors&gs_l=heirloom-serp.3...79250.79843.0.80312.3.3.0.0.0.0.344.344.3-1.1.0....0...1ac.1.34.heirloom-serp..3.0.0.IeaSUel_pJM

[ToddMeister]

Yeah I just changed the rear brakes on my 05 GMC 2500HD. The rear rotors were shot on the inside. Still had decent amount of material left on the pads with 115K on the truck. Not bad I suppose for 9 years in the rust <salt> belt. The front pad/rotors are still in pretty good shape.

I put on the local parts house rotors and Wagner ceramic pads. I run the Wagner's on the wife's trailblazer and liked the performance of those pads on her vehicle. We will see how they fare on the D-Max. Also replaced the brake fluid in the reservoir and let the brake lines bleed till new clear fluid showed.

Not sure why Ceramic pads are not well received on the internet. I like their performance and low dust. The carbon semi-metallic based pads leave a mess on the rims from previous experience.

[tufcj]

I just did all 4 wheels on my 2003. it has 151K on it, and is only used to tow a few times a year. Pads and rotors were factory, I bought the truck with about 23K on it. The inside face of all 4 rotors were shot, the rear inside pads were at the squealers, but the fronts still had a lot of pad left (I'd say nearly 1/3 left). It spent about 3 1/2 years in the Chicago area, which I blame for the rotor corrosion.

I replaced all 4 with rotors from Auto-Zone, and Duralast severe duty pads. I also had to replace the E-brake due to one leaking axle seal. It stops as well as it ever did.

Bob
tufcj

[Kennedy]

I prefer to machine the OE rotors whenever possible. I also smear some dielectric grease on the caliper hangers before installing the pad guides. I file the pad slots open a bit to allow a more easy slide. The caliper pistons often have a corroded face. I file this flat and again smear a dab of dielectric.

For pads I use Car Quest GMD series. These are severe duty police/ambulance brakes and they stop much better than OE. The OE pads are just too darn hard hence the exceptionally long life and mediocre stopping power.

[hoarder]

I would recommend SSBC brand they are not OE, but we had a great experience with it. I believe its made from USA. It's a complete bolt on application, what is good with it is that its made of stainless steel and surely it will last longer compared with OE. We bought it from 4wheelonline (http://4wheelonline.com/). Check the link below hope it helps.
http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=40729&ProductId=106414

[tx dave]

Well I thought after 297K I finally needed brakes. Thenwere getting spongy. Went and bought pads and rotors. Got home got the truck on stands. wheels off and started taking it apart. The new pads were 7/8 thick. mine were all 5/8 thick. Rotors didn't have a lip to speak of. Took everything back and had he brake system flushed and now it's like I have new brakes again. I guess last year when I flushed and bleed them I left a little air.

[DickWells]

I just put new top-of-the-line Raybestos drilled and grooved rotors and pads from Rockauto all around, last Summer. RA has been very fast, and better than average, price-wise, for me on a bunch of stuff. The new brakes are a big improvement over the originals; less spongy and a lot less peddle effort. With only about 15 thousand on them, I can't tell much about longevity, but I'm really happy with my stopping ability. I couldn't complain about the originals, wear wise, though. I had nearly 160 K miles on them when I changed, and nearly three-quarters of that was towing an 11,000 lb trailer, and I have just about a ton on the truck, itself, what with all the tools, luggage, generator, chainsaw, chains, and a 900 lb Spyder, along with two adults, and a bunch of other junk. Well, it actually grosses right at 21,000, come to think about it.