PMD going out I think

[Qazulight]

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=2414286&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/IPM1photo%20primary.jpg

Sometimes my truck want start, or it just dies. I just unplug the PMD for a second and it starts right up. I am thinking that as the weather is warming up, either PMD is opening up internally, or I have a connection going bad. As I don't have a spare PMD, I am thinking I should order one. Even it isn't the problem, I will have spare.

Pin Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Direct OE Replacement; Hardware Kit Included; No. of Terminals: 6; Functions: Module for the GM Injection Pump; Fuel Injector Type: Diesel Injection; Connector Gender: Female Standard is committed to being the best. Whether it is spending more on research and development, or upgrading and expanding its product line, Standard works hard to earn your trust and loyalty. Standard is continually evolving to give customers the competitive edge they need to compete in today's ever-changing marketplace.

Standard is a leader in providing a premium line of engine management products. When the OE part fails, we have the replacement parts offering high tech designs with perfect fit and perfect performance. With over 32,000 part numbers to choose from, we offer outstanding coverage for import and domestic cars and light trucks.
Injection Pump Solutions (http://www.standardbrand.com/upload/Standard/Documents/Library/STANDARDJTF_IPM.PDF) Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 12562836
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Warranty Information
3 years/36,000 miles. Ignition Control modules (ICM) and ProSeries wire sets- Five years/50,000 miles. Remanufactured electronic products and engine control modules - 12 month/unlimited miles. Return & rebuild parts have same warranty as new parts. Premium wire sets - Limited lifetime. T-Series parts - 12 months.

Rock Auto has this one with a 36,000 mile warranty for 280.00 dollars.

Rock Auto has been my goto place for parts for a while. 280 is a bite, but I am guessing that may be what it costs.

The FSD is already remoted above the intake with a heat sink.

It looks like I might also have some problems with the seals leaking in the rear axle as well as I seem to have a brake dragging in the front. I should have the caliper repaired by Monday. I think I will have a mechanic look at the cost for the rear seals and replace the rear pads (drum brakes) and see how it goes from there.

At the rate I am spending money, I could by a nice newer Suburban 2500 and pay the notes. :(

So far this year

New thermostats
Flush heater and radiator
New Windshield washer tank and motor.
New Oil Cooler lines (Ouch!)

Now I need

Brake caliper work
Rear seals on rear axle
Rear Brakes
FSD


And I still want
A ladder rack
modify the bed some, i.e. raise the false floor and inch or two, cut off the water cooler holder, and add a mount for a vise.
Re-cover the seat and add seat heaters.

Then again, if doesn't stop being such a money sink, I may sell it and buy a Suburban or something like it.

Qazulight

c3500 with utility bed. Not dually. 2000 model with 150,000 miles.

[DmaxMaverick]

It could be the FSD, and testing with a new or known good module will help determine that. Buy 2 or 3, if you intend to leave it on the intake (or just about anywhere under the hood other than on the pump). You'll need them.

[Qazulight]

I thought remote mounting them with a heat sink was the method of solving the heat problem. While it isn't mounted in the grill, it is up an away from the engine.

Qazulight

[DmaxMaverick]

Air cooling is OK. But, air cooling where the air is hotter than the needed cooling is suicide. Get it out of the engine compartment, or put it back on the pump. Mounting on the intake is as bad as it gets. Period.

[Qazulight]

26502651

Ok, would you move it inside the cab? If so, how would you extend the wiring harness? I take it the fuel pump is underneath the intake manifold which would mean pulling the intake. This is something I think I should avoid as the last time I had it pulled some of the dogs for tightening it down broke and I had to have it welded and machined.

The current PSD is a Stanadyne with what appears to be #4 resistor. Considering my goals for this truck, "work fine, last long time" a #4 is probably just right.

Also I noticed that the black ground wire that looks like it should be tied to the FSD heat-sync is tied back down to the intake manifold. I suspect that it is a better ground. When the weather warms up, I intend to tie the two battery negative post together, run a another ground to the FSD and run a new ground down to the lift pump and generally ground the frame, the utility bed and everything else.

Thanks for the info.

Cheers
Qazulight (It is finally warm enough to open the hood. Nice and toasty 35 this morning.)

[Qazulight]

Air cooling is OK. But, air cooling where the air is hotter than the needed cooling is suicide. Get it out of the engine compartment, or put it back on the pump. Mounting on the intake is as bad as it gets. Period.

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/index.html

So I am guessing you are not a fan of SS Diesel Supply.

http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/frequently_asked_questions.html#faq_id14

Can I mount your FSD Heat-SyncTM on the firewall instead of the manifold?
Yes, you can, but I don't recommend it and it will void its warranty. I have done extensive testing under the hood in different locations, and our location shown is by far the coolest running. The PMD runs about 30 degrees cooler in the airstream on the manifold then even the firewall.


I ask because I currently have the SSDiesel Heat Sink and PMD on the truck, (It came with it) The symptoms point toward a failure and for about the same price can order a Diesel Fuel Injector Driver Module (IDM) from Rock Auto and they have 3 year 36 month warranty vs. SSDiesel 1 year warranty.

Cheers
Qazulight

Cheers
Qazulight

[DmaxMaverick]

SS Diesel? Walt does offer some good products and advice, but also some not so good, IMO. I don't agree with his opinion of FSD cooling, although there's nothing wrong with his heat sink, physically. It's adequately sized and would work well in a good location, if the FSD is properly mounted.

The OEM location is mounted to the driver side of the IP. It can be R/R'd without removing the intake, but it isn't easy. I am not recommending that you put it there, only saying that removing it from the pump and putting it on the intake is out of the frying pan and into the fire. The "airstream" he refers to is the hot air coming off the radiator, not to mention the radiant and rising heat from the engine (and the same reason I/we also recommend removing the "turbo power" cover, to allow for more airflow in the area). At least if it's on the pump, the passing fuel will pull heat from the driver through the pump housing. I also do not recommend mounting to the firewall, especially directly behind the engine, for the same reasons.

Inside the cab? Where is the airflow there? If you put it in the HVAC duct (as some have suggested), that would be great as long as the A/C is running. Not so great if the heater is running. It can be mounted in any number of locations, all requiring an extension. In front of the driver side battery or the backside of the front bumper are good places. Some have mounted it inside the air filter box (which is a good place, just more complex).

The ground wire from the driver harness must be attached to the injection pump. Anywhere else is the wrong place no matter where you have the driver mounted, and will cause running issues, not unlike what you are seeing.

You can source a harness extension from several places. Kennedy has them. Or, you can extend it yourself if you're adequately electrically skilled.

[Qazulight]

SS Diesel? Walt does offer some good products and advice, but also some not so good, IMO. I don't agree with his opinion of FSD cooling, although there's nothing wrong with his heat sink, physically. It's adequately sized and would work well in a good location, if the FSD is properly mounted.

The OEM location is mounted to the driver side of the IP. It can be R/R'd without removing the intake, but it isn't easy. I am not recommending that you put it there, only saying that removing it from the pump and putting it on the intake is out of the frying pan and into the fire. The "airstream" he refers to is the hot air coming off the radiator, not to mention the radiant and rising heat from the engine (and the same reason I/we also recommend removing the "turbo power" cover, to allow for more airflow in the area). At least if it's on the pump, the passing fuel will pull heat from the driver through the pump housing. I also do not recommend mounting to the firewall, especially directly behind the engine, for the same reasons.

Inside the cab? Where is the airflow there? If you put it in the HVAC duct (as some have suggested), that would be great as long as the A/C is running. Not so great if the heater is running. It can be mounted in any number of locations, all requiring an extension. In front of the driver side battery or the backside of the front bumper are good places. Some have mounted it inside the air filter box (which is a good place, just more complex).

The ground wire from the driver harness must be attached to the injection pump. Anywhere else is the wrong place no matter where you have the driver mounted, and will cause running issues, not unlike what you are seeing.

You can source a harness extension from several places. Kennedy has them. Or, you can extend it yourself if you're adequately electrically skilled.


OK, then I could extend it and mount it on the side of the driver side battery box. It may be a little behind the oil cooler, but it would be further away from the engine and lower in the compartment.

I saw where the black ground attached down in the hole under the intake. I am assuming that is where the injection pump is. (Lousy location, on our generators it is out where you can see it, but the genny's use tractor engines.) I will try to get in there and remove and clean that connection this week.

The funny thing is; if the engine doesn't start, if I cycle the key, the glow plug cycle short cycles and the fuel pump pumps nothing. (After the each episode when I get the truck started there is no smoke.) All I have to do to get the truck to start, is unplug the PSD and plug it back in. Even for a second is long enough. The truck starts and runs fine until the next time it wants to act funny.

Sure is nice that is warm too. Now that it is warm the engine is so much quieter. At negative 20 even with the block heater on all night, it sounded like battle was going on under the hood. I have to give the engine credit, even though the truck has cost me a lot of money this winter, the engine fired up every morning within a second. just hit the key and let it get a good solid revolution and it was running. Generally with #1 diesel and the block heater it didn't even run rough. However, since I switched back to #2 on the days in the 20's with no block heater it can idle rough for 10 to 15 seconds and put out some white smoke. But once it clears up, it runs fine. Until it don't, then it don't.

Cheers
Qazulight

[a5150nut]

If your 2000 is like my 94 there is an opening in the panel left of the radiator in front of the battery. There is also a theaded hole you can use to mount your cooler to. When moving you get good airflow thruigh the opening.

I am curious about all this unpluging and pluging. Have you used any electrical contact cleaner on the plug and socket ?

[DmaxMaverick]

From the sound of it, you could also have a failing ignition switch, and/or poor connection(s), as suggested by the Nut. Clean with a dab of dielectric grease is your friend.

[a5150nut]

One of the first thing I did with my 94 was open, clean, and grease all electrical connections. Have replaced PMD two times, ignition switch once.

All was based on information I gained here on TDP.

[Qazulight]

I ordered a PMD off of ebay to test with. Got in Friday, the installed died on Sunday.

I wonder if I can order those transistors and fix the old one?

Cheers
Qazulight

[Qazulight]

Well I got around to pulling the dead PMD apart. Two of the screws holding the power transistors turn when I turn the nut. I will have to remove some of the potting on the back side to get something to back stop the screw.

If I can get the transistors out with out destroying the circuit board I will try replacing them. I think it might be urgent because the new replacement I put in is making an intermittent surge every once in a while while idling.

Cheers
Qazulight

[Dvldog8793]

IMHO---
The way the PMD is build is has some issues. I think you will find that even if you replace the transistors it will have problems. I would be willing to bet that if we could remove all the potting compound, we would find heat stressed/cracked mounting board. When I worked for Motorola we had a oven and lots of freeze spray handy to track down intermittent problems like this created by random heat cycles. It was my experience that the transistors were normally pretty robust.
Have fun with potting compound...;-)

[Kennedy]

We went away from mounting on the intake several years ago already. Also went to a larger cooler and centralized the device to the cooler and started using a thermal transfer paste plus a pr of thermal discs directly between the transistor bodies and the cooler. Our fail rate has gone way down as a result.




http://www.kennedydiesel.com/images/FSD_cooler_remote_mount_96.jpg

[Qazulight]

IMHO---
The way the PMD is build is has some issues. I think you will find that even if you replace the transistors it will have problems. I would be willing to bet that if we could remove all the potting compound, we would find heat stressed/cracked mounting board. When I worked for Motorola we had a oven and lots of freeze spray handy to track down intermittent problems like this created by random heat cycles. It was my experience that the transistors were normally pretty robust.
Have fun with potting compound...;-)

I suspect you are correct. I got the transistors from Digikey for 4 bucks a piece. Getting the transistors out was not a real big problem. I just drilled down to the screws then dug the potting compound out with a pocket knife. The spec sheet on the transistors shows they are rated to 200 Celsius. That would be over 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

I will spring for an extension cable soon and move the whole thing down to the driver side battery box. However, I am pretty sure heat was not the factor that took these out as we have had a bitter cold winter. Rather it is as you suspect a crack in a board caused by a hot/cold cycle.

In any case, it is cheap entertainment to try.

Cheers
Qazulight

[Qazulight]

I suspect you are correct. I got the transistors from Digikey for 4 bucks a piece. Getting the transistors out was not a real big problem. I just drilled down to the screws then dug the potting compound out with a pocket knife. The spec sheet on the transistors shows they are rated to 200 Celsius. That would be over 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

I will spring for an extension cable soon and move the whole thing down to the driver side battery box. However, I am pretty sure heat was not the factor that took these out as we have had a bitter cold winter. Rather it is as you suspect a crack in a board caused by a hot/cold cycle.

In any case, it is cheap entertainment to try.

Cheers
Qazulight

My fix today. Nothing, nada, Nyet.

It was not the transistors that went out. Oh, well.

Got other problems now. I will make two threads.

Cheers
Qazulight