Glow plug weirdness

[jcbellco]

I decided to replace my glow plugs and controller since my truck seems to be starting a little rougher in the cold weather than it used to. This is the first time I have done this myself.

I pulled off the controller and there are only 3 pins on it with two blanks, and only 3 connectors in the harness end. My new one, however, (and all the pictures I've seen online) have 4 pins and one blank. Is this normal? To make matters worse, the blanks are on the driver's side on my old one and the passenger side on my new one :mad:

I have replaced 4 of the plugs (driver's side). Plugs 1, 3, and 7 were more difficult to thread in than it seemed like they should be. Number 7 wouldn't even go all the way until the nut was seated. Is this normal? If not, is it bad? Also, does the nut have to seat against the motor or will they be OK as long as they are torqued?

Thanks. Sorry if this is newbie stuff and answered elsewhere.

[jcbellco]

Actually, I just looked at the SSDiesel webpage and their controller looks exactly the same as my old one! Then I looked at the DieselRx page and I was sent the part number for a 1985 6.2 (not ordered directly from DieselRx, got it on ebay). Grrr. I found out after I ordered that some consider the DieselRx/Wellman stuff to be less desirable than others. Any opinions on that? Live and learn I guess.

Since I have to put my old controller back on the truck to run it, can anyone tell me if that will damage my brand new plugs?

Thanks

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
What model of glow plugs did you get?
IMHO this is more important than the controller.

[jcbellco]

I got the DieselRx DRX00050 glowplugs (website says they're right) and the wrong DRX controller. I was able to get them quick on ebay, but now I'm wondering if I should have just got Bosch or ACDelco at the local store. Some of these have been really tight going in -- much harder than the old ones coming out.

[Dvldog8793]

Read the test reports done by this page about glow plugs. These were some VERY extensive destructive tests. Really some good info. If I remember right the AC 60G plugs were about the best, I think Bosch was a close second. I run the 60Gs in every GM diesel I own and they work great in the Minnesota -40. If the plugs are going in hard I would venture that they are not threaded clean or the nickel plating on the plug is causing some issues. Personally, I would not use them if they are not going in easy and all the way. Especially if the old plugs came out easy....This winter I replaced the plugs in my 1996 and they almost went in by hand until the last 3/4 turn.
Hope this helps...

[jcbellco]

Thanks Dvldog8793. That does help. I guess I will run these for at least a few days until I can pick up some 60Gs. I have 6/8 in, so now I can't return them.

Any tips on getting to the last two on the passenger side?

Lesson here is do the research before you order the parts!

Thanks again.

[sctrailrider]

It makes the job a little easier to remove the inter fender on the passenger side, only takes a little while...

[Dvldog8793]

Assuming that you are doing it with the front wheel removed....
On the passenger side I used a stepper bit and drilled two 1-1/4 holes in the inner fender to access the GPs. After I was done, I used plastic hole plugs with sealer to cap the holes.
Good luck!

[jcbellco]

Thanks sctrailrider and Dvldog! Took the fender off and got them all in. I think the grease on the threads was messing things up. I skipped that on the passenger side and they went in like butter. Then I went back to the driver side and took them all out, cleaned the threads off, and they went in a lot easier.

The truck starts like a champ now!

Dvldog, excellent advice on the passenger fender holes! My monster downpipe is partially blocking the third one back, so I think that one will be tricky no matter what. An access hole for the rear one is critical! Especially since I plan on replacing these DRXs with some 60Gs soon-ish, definitely before next winter. We don't get as cold as MN here, but we see -25 nights a lot and usually a couple weeks with highs around 0. I can't plug in my truck while I'm at work, so the glows are critical.

Is there any advice out there on replacing the wire connectors on the plug end? Or the entire harness? What kind of connectors can you use? Regular plastic ones from NAPA, or are they special? Some of my connectors were a little loose coming off, but they seemed snugger going on the new ones.

Thanks again for the help and advice!

[Dvldog8793]

Any splices are in the connector lines are added resistance to the circuit. If you HAVE to splice in a line then use solder and high temp heat shrink. If you have to replace then ends use the ceramic connector made for the glow plugs. Engine heat will eat up the regular crimp on type. Most of the time you can use a small screwdriver to tighten up the connector. I have replaced the entire harness before and it is not a terrible bad job. The passenger side is the tough part.