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CaptnPea
12-01-2013, 12:07
1996 Sub
Remote PMD w/heat sink
New fuel filter
Appears to bleed no problem
Lift pump is audiable to pressure up then shuts down, can't tell if it is on during running (leaky exhaust pipe)

Starts fast runs great for 2 minutes, consistently within +- 30 seconds...

Goes into a no start mode...
Can bleed system right away, but will not start.

Come back in 15 minutes repeat runs great for 2 minutes...

being at best a shade tree mechanic... And as it sits in my cabin drive with few tools available... What is my next course so action... ? Do know a good automotive guy, but, want to at least get him working in the right direction with some advice from here.

Located about 30 miles west from Traverse City, if anyone wants to make a buck with some help.

Thanks,
Erik

sctrailrider
12-02-2013, 04:15
When it quits, is there still fuel in the filter, or do you need to bleed it again??

Do you have a spare PMD to change and see if that helps??

Sort of sounds like the LP might not be pumping enough fuel..

CaptnPea
12-02-2013, 06:36
Do not have to re-prime... Just waiting will let it run for 2 minutes

I'll look to see if I have the old PMD... Don't think I do.

Thanks...

Kennedy
12-02-2013, 10:44
Tank sender/sock been replaced recently?

If time fixes it and bleeding does not then it surely must be electrical.

You stated remote PMD etc, but how old and what brand setup?

CaptnPea
12-10-2013, 13:31
Does the Sender have the fuel gauge, if so yes replaced a year or two back. I had to as the original stopped reading, and odometer/spedo only works about half the time, so I had to keep track on a map of my mileage/fuel level.


Does anyone know of a way to bypass the PMD to keep the fuel solenoid open? What else does the PMD do? Can it get gone with some "custom" wiring a couple of switches added to the dash?

DmaxMaverick
12-10-2013, 13:46
The PMD can't be "bypassed". It can be relocated, but it's necessary for IP operation. It's a signal amplifier that powers the fuel [metering] solenoid (internal to the pump), NOT to be confused with the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid, located OUTSIDE the IP). The ESS, on EFI engines (1994+), is controlled by the PCM, but can be bypassed if you suspect the PCM is cutting it off. Applying Batt+ power to the solenoid (disconnect the harness connector first) will force it to "open" fuel to the pump. Keep in mind, if the IP fails to WOT, the PCM will have no way to kill the engine. Be ready to immediately pull the power if it runs away.

Lug
12-18-2013, 10:14
Another possible problem area is the power leads on the firewall terminal strip. My 1994 was acting up like a bad pmd and it turned out to be a loose lead. It wasn't flopping loose, more like finger tight, but it was enough that the voltage to the computer wasn't stable. Two other problem areas is engine grounds and battery voltage balance (either batteries themselves or marginal battery leads). Good luck and if you can find the factory manuals they are very handy. Better than Chilton/Haynes junk.
Justin