Ether or WD40?

[ejlarson]

Hey all!

I know this has sorta been covered ad nausem, :eek: but I have a really specific question about this.

I am picking up my first Diesel in 2 weeks. It is an 86 Burb, with a 6.2.

There is a possibility I will be driving it in bad/cold weather. If it won't start for some reason, would I be ok to disable the glow plugs, and have someone else crank it while I give it 2-3 really short bursts of Ether?

Te ONLY reason I would do this is, if we are broken down/it won't start somewhere along the way, late at night/no other choices etc.

I do NOT know enough about Diesels, and or 6.2s to upgrade the glow plug system until I get the beast home.

Thanks all. :D

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

That would be one of the (very few) exceptions to not using ether.

Yes, disable the glow plugs. Do not remove any of the intake plumbing. If the original intake plumbing is intact, spray into the intake snorkel opening in the grill (or the furthest opening from the intake, if intake parts are missing). Spray 1 short burst at a time, WHILE the other person is cranking. This prevents the ether from being allowed in as a short cloud, but dissipates it to an even vapor. Continue cranking until it starts, or tries to start. If it stumbles, then continue cranking, spray another burst. Continue as needed. This process allows for a start with the very minimal amount necessary. Usually it takes only 1 or 2 attempts. In an absolute emergency, you can spray, run, crank.

[ejlarson]

Welcome aboard!

That would be one of the (very few) exceptions to not using ether.

Yes, disable the glow plugs. Do not remove any of the intake plumbing. If the original intake plumbing is intact, spray into the intake snorkel opening in the grill (or the furthest opening from the intake, if intake parts are missing). Spray 1 short burst at a time, WHILE the other person is cranking. This prevents the ether from being allowed in as a short cloud, but dissipates it to an even vapor. Continue cranking until it starts, or tries to start. If it stumbles, then continue cranking, spray another burst. Continue as needed. This process allows for a start with the very minimal amount necessary. Usually it takes only 1 or 2 attempts. In an absolute emergency, you can spray, run, crank.

Thanks man. Sometimes I don't communicate well enough online, so I was hoping that I got the "emergency" point across.

Like I said, it's my first diesel, but I have worked on a lot of gassers over the last 30 years.

I just wanted to know if that plan would work in a worst case scenario, and it sounds like it will.

I really appreciate you answering my noobish question. :)

[DmaxMaverick]

You got the point across well, actually.

I suggest, if it's possible, you use the block heater prior to a cold start. If the engine and fuel system is in good condition otherwise, they will very often start without glow plugs (or starting fluid). It depends on how cold it is. If it's garaged (warmer air), it increases the chances. It will need 4-8 hours, depending on the temp. At 30-ish degrees, 3-4 hours is usually enough. More time as it gets colder. Heating the block will also help after the start. Once started, there's no need for starting aids. If it's shut down, it should restart easily if it isn't too long, also depending on the temp.

If the glow plugs are functional, they can be activated without the "control". The relay can be bypassed or "jumpered", just like a starter. Don't glow more than 10 seconds. If it has 9G or similar plugs, they'll burn up if on too long. The controller/relay is located at the rear of the driver side valve cover. Operation is simple, you only need to provide battery voltage to the glow plug harness post, by whatever means. The individual plugs can be tested in place or removed, by checking the spade connector continuity to ground. If the circuit is closed, they are good (almost always). It may help if you pick up a set of plugs before going, and replace them. All 8 aren't always needed for a good start, depending again on the temp. They are as easy as replacing spark plugs. You could avoid the starting fluid need, entirely. It is also important to have healthy and fully charged batteries, and a charger and/or a good jump start vehicle handy if it hasn't been started in a while. Don't crank too long and allow the starter to cool between attempts, or starter damage can happen.

Don't limit your options if you don't have to.

[ejlarson]

I majorly appreciate you taking time to help out. Very good information on the plugs! The burb is 100% stock, so if I need to "jump" the glow plugs I will be quick and careful.

It has been a Florida truck all of it's life, and that is where I am picking it up from. The drive will be all good until I get to probably southern IL. That stretch from So IL, to Peoria is what I'm worried about.

You never know though. It could be in the 50s, or -10, so it will all be up to mother nature. :)

[DmaxMaverick]

That's quite a drive, especially this time of year in a vehicle of unknown condition. It may be a better idea to trailer it. If it's not been driven much recently, it's hard to know what to expect. Anything can go wrong, and it often does with no prior warning. If the rig starts well the first time, there's no reason to believe it won't later. Driving in cold weather isn't the problem with a weak starting system. A long sit in the cold can be. If you are driving straight through, or tag-team, it shouldn't be a problem. If it sits overnight, you'll want to have as healthy starting system as possible.

Good luck!

[ejlarson]

That's quite a drive, especially this time of year in a vehicle of unknown condition. It may be a better idea to trailer it. If it's not been driven much recently, it's hard to know what to expect. Anything can go wrong, and it often does with no prior warning. If the rig starts well the first time, there's no reason to believe it won't later. Driving in cold weather isn't the problem with a weak starting system. A long sit in the cold can be. If you are driving straight through, or tag-team, it shouldn't be a problem. If it sits overnight, you'll want to have as healthy starting system as possible.

Good luck!

More great info!

We are stopping one time. I will arrange our trip where we stop somewhere southern. :)

I am buying it off a friend, and he has been starting it every week or so to let it warm up. It's only got about 150,000 on the clock, and it has lived a pretty easy life.

Thanks man!

My plans are to make it a 4x4, and swap a different diesel in it in the future.

It is a 2wd long a low-mobile now. I'll post some pics when I finally get possession!

[ejlarson]

I like adventure! :)

I sincerely appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me.

We are probably going to tag team driving, and I will make sure our stop over is as far south as possible.

[ejlarson]

Another question.

Are the bolts and nuts on an 86 burb metric or standard?

I am shipping tools down in advance. :)

[AKMark]

The body will be mostly standard, and the motor will be mostly metric.


Those were rough years on mechanics.

[trbankii]

Are the bolts and nuts on an 86 burb metric or standard?

On my '93, the answer would be yes... Out of five bolts, chances are that three are one, two are the other, and none are the same size... :p

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Having done the fly-in-cross-country-trip-in-an-unknown a few times, a couple of things that I consider "must-haves" Multi-meter, self lighting map torch, rechargeable drill and matching work light and a small inverter for the drill and other stuff. Even with all the prep in the world you probably wont have the tools you need....but it sure is fun to pack!:D
Good luck!

[ejlarson]

Thanks guys. I was reading that they used both, and couldn't believe that. :(

That sucks pretty bad.

Oh well, it's all for fun right? :eek:

[trbankii]

Believe me, I regularly curse GM engineers while working on my truck. You're working along with SAE sockets and then you wonder why a size up is too loose and a size down is too tight. Then you realize it is metric. Or vice versa. All my other vehicles are one or the other - Ford, Toyota, Saab, Kawasaki, Bobcat... The Chevy is the only one that they randomly mixed stuff...

[AKMark]

Part of the problem is that they get this part from Delphi and it's SAE and this part from Bosch and it's Metric and instead of insisting on it being one or the other, they allow other companies to make it the way they want to.

Yeah it's frustrating, but less frustrating than trying to keep a 6.0L Powerstroke alive.