Needing information about the 6.2 Suburban

[DieselPoweredMind]

Hey guys

OK so im moveing to Alaska at the end of the year for work and school. I am going to pick up a 85/86 suburban from my dads property up there. I know it hasnt been cranked up since he got it over a years ago now. Is there anything I need to know about the 6.2 that might cause me trouble getting going again. Im going to school up there for diesel technology so i know the basics but I prefer to have a second opinion on things and to have information i might not know.

[sctrailrider]

One important thing... never use either on it... never..

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

Keep it simple.

Change fluids.

Change filters: oil, air and fuel. Check the entire air intake plumbing. Critters like to set up housekeeping there.

Check the coolant. It should be 50/50. Add coolant if it's low and/or if you are unsure of the quality. Plan a flush/fill in the near future.

Check/replace belts and hoses, as necessary.

Check underhood wire harnesses. Critters find some nutritional value to wire insulation, for some reason. They also like chewing on other things, like hoses, lines and plastic tanks (such as the coolant reservoir).

Check or replace batteries as a pair. Make sure they are fully charged.

Check glow plugs (and GP system) for operation. Repair/replace as necessary. The 6.2L won't like Alaska, at all, without a well working GP system.

Check remainder of drivetrain for fluids and other normal stuff. Torque converter drain-down can happen if it sits for a long period, so a high ATF level may be normal. Plan a full tranny service in the near future.

Check the brakes. Plan a full inspection and fluid service in the near future.

Check fuel for contamination. If it's clear and clean, use it. Add fresh fuel as necessary. Make sure you are using the correct fuel for the season. Currently available fuel should be winterized according to the local climate.

Prime the fuel system. Disconnect the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid) connector at the injection pump (front, usually pink wire) and crank until fuel is clear at the filter bleeder (top valve). Drain some from the water drain to remove any sediment and/or water. You'll want/need fully charged batteries, and may need a charger handy. The cranking will also get the oil fully circulated before running. Reconnect the IP power and it should start.

After start, check for leaks, condition of all the rubber under the hood (belts, hoses, etc.), and smooth operation. Some air in the fuel system will cause rough running and some smoke, but should clear in a minute or few.

If it ran well before it was parked, it should again. These engines and related systems aren't complicated, which is why we love them so much, I think.

[DmaxMaverick]

Oh, yeah. And this.......


One important thing... never use either on it... never..

Ether ("starting fluid") can be used, but a VERY specific process is required, or in an absolute emergency. Not for the average user, in any case.

[Yukon6.2]

Hi DPM
If you are driving up to Alaska,i'm on your way in Haines Jct. on the Alaska Highway.Stop by and I'll show you my collection of diesels.Where are you headed?
And ditto on the simple part,you should get the DieselPage Troubleshooting book,and the other books that relate to the Suburban.And do lots of reading on here.
Thomas

[DieselPoweredMind]

Thanks guys,

I planed on doing most everything. I am however probably going to have to replace the tank on it. Some Kids (sadly actually around my age give or take a year or two) desided to put water in it, and i dont know if it was token care of properly becuase my dad has no interests in diesels, He WAS and has swipped parts from it. Anyways, Im heading out to Palmer for the year before AVTECH in Seward.
I would love to see your collection but i am sadly going to flying. I look into the books and I have actually been reading a lot on the forum Just havent created a profile till recently.
But I'll keep you guys updated on the progress of the Suburban once i get working on it. I will probably have to wait till thaw out though or tow it to a shop that will let me work on it. hmmm.. We'll see.

[DmaxMaverick]

Heated socks, ear muffs, water-proof seat pants, insulated knee pads, mechanic's work gloves, pocket warmers, and a heater-blower. Place the heater-blower in front of the truck, blowing toward the rear, under the truck (it will heat your work area). Careful where you sit, without water-proof seat pants.

If you can pull that off in Alaska, your GM Diesel indoctrination will be complete. The rest is just wrenching.

[Dvldog8793]

DMAX his it right with one addition....use 1/2 foil coated foam board(home depot or other about $12.00 a sheet) to help direct heat and also to lay on....it really helps reflect body heat.
I learned this from changing a water pump and radiator outside in the Minnesota winter(about -15) GREAT fun was had by all!!!!:D
IMHO....avoid the ether if all possible. I have seen 6.2/6.5 damaged even when using the proper method.
Good luck!

[AKMark]

I don't care where you are at in AK, DO NOT RUN 50/50 coolant!!!!!!


I have diagnosed four vehicles in the last month that ran 50/50 and are now in need of new shortblocks if they are ever to run again.

50/50 is not enough for our winters. 60/40, or 65/35 and testing with a proper coolant tester (not the $20 cheapo at the parts stores) are needed to ensure you are good enough for -60 days. If you are in Anchorage area, you can get away with setting it for -40, but if you are further north, you need a thicker concentration.

Sorry for the rant, but all four of these folks had been told by the idiots at the parts counters here that 50/50 was perfect for a Fairbanks winter.....No, it's not.

[Warren96]

If I was going to ALASKA, my personal spin on this is not to plan work on ANY vehicle ..... unless it is AT LEAST 40 outside!! Nothing comes apart at these temperatures, and you will find yourself focusing on your own discomfort, and thinking of what shortcuts you can take to get done faster. This leads to broken electrical connectors, damaged vacumm lines, Rube Goldberg battery teminals, OH, and did some body mention using ETHER ???????? That should be used only if you have a spare engine handy.

[DieselPoweredMind]

Yeah. I might just wait till it warms up. Or as i said find a shop to rent a bay out off.