Please help with thick oil problem!

[jdmetcalf57]

I just returned from a trip to Florida and have a potentially serious problem with my truck. I changed the oil before we left. 3200 miles later after we got home I went to change the oil again. I removed the filter but no oil came out. Strange? What I found was that the oil was the cosistancy of a milk shake and would barely run out of the drain plug. I use Shell Rotella 15w40 and the truck had been setting in a heated garage which was about 45-50 deg.

I have never seen or heard of a problem like this. Has anybody else seen this problem? What would cause it? Do I likely have any engine damage?

I would greatly appreciate any ones help on this.

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
If you have the new extended run orange antifreeze it will mix with oil and turn into a thick oil slime. Sounds to me like you have antifreeze in your oil. One good thing about this antifreeze is that it SUPPOSEDLY will not take out your bearings when it mixes with the oil. I just replaced the block in my 1999 and the entire inside of the engine was covered with this stuff. If I were you I would flush it all out and pressure test the engine. Do a search here for appetite for antifreeze (???). I hope I'm wrong but it sure sounds like the same goop that I had in my cracked block.
GOOD LUCK!
L8r
Conley

[jdmetcalf57]

Please!!!!!! offer any advice on the following, escpecially Dvldog8793

After reading several post I am pretty sure I have the dreaded cracked block. Any chance it is a head problem? I cannot get any evidence that the head gasket is leaking into a cylinder.

The coolant light came on while I was in the FL keys. I refilled it several times on the way home. Apparently I have driven it about 1500 miles with coolant in the oil. I have put a total of about 1.5 gal in it.

My truck has 96K on it so it should still be under warranty. What should I expect them to replace? A long block or short or what? How can I be sure that the new block is the new Navistar blocks? What all have I likely damaged with that many miles with coolant?

Also I have a very helpful local dealer but they are small and very limited on their diesel knowledge. They also give me a much reduced price on parts. Would you take it to the local dealer or the other option of a big city dealer that will try to charge me a bundle for any parts and labor that are not covered under the warranty. But they do know a lot about deisels.

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
This is my story:
I diagnosed a cracked block with 145,000 miles on the truck. OUT OF WARRENTY! Sooooo I pulled the engine in my shop and tore it down. I then ordered a Goodwrench long block(all new Goodwrench are Navistar, so I'm told) When I went to my dealer to price out other stuff he asked if I had tried to get warrenty, of coarse not. Long story short, with the help of a GREAT dealer that I had not got the block from(small, local, not diesel smart) I ended up with a check from GM for $2200.00 and sold the rest of my old parts for about $2000.00. NET price of the long block ended up being about $2000.00! Of coarse I did all the labor so that part was cheap!
I would think that my circumstances might be pretty unique, GM could have told me to for a walk. You have solid ground as your truck is still under warrenty. If it was me I would take to the local guy, tell them that you want a long block. Maybe they will also give you break on the EXTRA stuff you should do at the same time. Water pump, injectors, glows, oil lines, remote filter, ect....
For me it was real learning experience, the diesels aint rocket surgery after all!
I got some good advise as to the heads from JK, even if it a bad head, to do them right, you should pull the motor. Also probably easier that way, as the difference by the GM book is only about 3hrs. I only went about 200miles, If I were you I would replace anything that the oil comes incontact with. might cost you money now, but it will cost you MORE later. If your dealer gives you the run around then get the GM customer service 800 number. When they ask you if you own any other GM product tel them you have about 30 cars/trucks and think GM is the best thing in the world! :D :rolleyes:
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[markrinker]

Wow - mine shelled at 132K and I never even considered TRYING to get warranty assistance...oops...

[jdmetcalf57]

Dvldog thanks for all of the input. Another question for you or any one else.
I took the rubber cover from the inlet of my turbo and it was full of the sludge. You can take the turbo shaft and move it side ways quite a bit. This is not normal is it? I seem to recall that it used to move only slightly. I think the sludge has trashed the turbo also. Does anyone concur?

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
I would say it has gone to the great turbo graveyard. I don't think they should have any play that you can feel with your fingers. The sludge in that area probably came from the CDR. Mine was packed full but I had none in the turbo area. My oil was still liquid though. Sounds like you were really lucky that you didn't grenade in the middle of nowhere at zero-dark30!
did you notice anything about operating temp or oil pressure? I would be interested in seeing some pics of the problem when you find it. Make sure that your dealer see the turbo.
Sorry about the bad news but at least now you know you'll be getting the "new-improved-neverfail-super-hummer-navistar-block" LOL :D tongue.gif
L8r
Conley

[jdmetcalf57]

I kept an eye on my gages all of the trip and nothing seemed unusual. Just prior to the trip I added a fuel pressure gage, a wastegate vacuum gage, a boost gage and a turbo back pressure gage. I was planning on doing some more tweaking trying to get more mpg. So I kept an eye on the factory and added gages the whole trip.

[ace58]

I hope all works out with the General. Like Mark Rinker, my Suburban had the same symptoms at 150K. Upon disassembly, the block was cracked. I had no idea any type of assistance was available and headed at it on my own.