Programmer did something bad to computer

[chesapeakechuck]

Sitting here in the house now after blowing a mental gasket out in my garage. I'm in Palm Springs and it's about 112 F outside now, which makes working on my stupid truck something of a pain in the tail.

Anyway, I bought a 2003 GMC 4x4 just last week that has the duramax diesel engine in it. It seemed like a good deal at the time. It's only got 92K on it and I was told that it was more less stock (from the GMC dealership where I bought it up in Freemont, Ca). The truck has 285 75R 16 tires on it and I know the speedo/odometer is off. So, I bought a new Superchips 2806 Tirepaq programmer to reset tire calibration on the truck.
Mistake #1: I just should have dealt with the speedo discrepancy because now I have bigger problems.

I followed the superchips directions explicitly and stored my trucks stock program into it. I then plugged in my new tire size and uploaded the program to my truck, per the superchips directions. All seemed ok. I turned my ignition off and unplugged the device (also, per the instructions). I started the truck and was going to take- it for a spin when I noticed that the radio would not turn on. It is the upgraded Bose system. A little red light on the upper left corner of the radio keeps blinking red at me and the radio will not come on...It was then that I noticed that the check engine like came on and I saw that my fuel gauge was reading zero...The oil pressure was going back and forth between zero and 60 psi. Then I saw a service 4wd message appear where the odometer normally reads. I turned the truck off and got my code reader out. After plugging it in I was getting a P0380 code, heater-glowplug code. Sheesh. It appears at the very least that the security lock out on my radio has triggered, in addition to all the other problems.

All this BS from just trying to calibrate my speedo for the larger tires??? Is this normal? I am disgusted. I was told that the stock program was loaded in the truck when I bought it, but now I suspect that this was not the case...If I uploaded the "STOCK" program from the truck into the superchips programmer, and it was not the actual stock program but some aftermarket program, would it do all this weird crap? I am having the stupid truck towed to the dealership in the morning so they can sort this out.

Am I an idiot for having tried to program my truck for the larger tires? Do these programmers often cause problems like this? I wish I had just left the stupid thing alone. It seems like some sort of bug has been uploaded into my trucks computer and it's reeking havoc on half a dozen systems. I am pissed. Does anybody have any thoughts on this? I am throwing the programmer away after I get this sorted out at the dealership in the morning.

[DmaxMaverick]

It is possible the previous programming was not the original calibration, although I've not heard of everything you had going on when you uploaded the new program. It shouldn't be that screwy, either way. If the passlock was triggered, a 30 minute key-off period should reset it. If not, disconnect both battery + terminals, and ground one to chassis (make SURE neither of the + terminals are connected to the batteries!!!). Wait 30-60 minutes, reconnect and try again. This will clear any faults in the PCM, and should force a cold reboot. If it is still screwy (technical term), try to restore your "stock" program from the new programmer. If the "original" program is, in fact, not the OEM program, you may have to visit the dealer in any case. They'll be able to restore your original calibration in less than 30 minutes. You may be able to get the dealer you purchased it from to pay for it, if it was in fact the wrong calibration.

If this is the first you've seen the P0380 and/or check engine light, it's also possible an aftermarket program was used to bypass the emission system checks, and the Superchips restored them. If you are able to get it to restore your stock program, it should leave you where you started. I know of a few guys who have done this, due to the recent CA Diesel emission test requirement.

Tire size correction shouldn't be that big of a deal. I've been using a Predator for nearly 10 years on my 2001 with only a couple issues, none I believe were caused by the programmer (but fixed by the programmer). This with 285 tires, as well. If you are still interested in correcting your speedo/odo, I recommend the Predator, if for no other reason. It also has real time PCM data reading capabilities, as well. You don't have to use it for adding power, although it's not too bad at that, either. It's the best bang for the buck.

[chesapeakechuck]

Thanks for the information. I just unhooked both positive terminals and am waiting an hour to reconnect. We will see what this does. I don't think my radio is locked out, after having looked at my owners manual in some more detail. The red blinking light is on and is blinking, and the radio does not show that it is locked out. The cd changer still works, I just can't get the display to power up or function (no music from radio or cd's). Strange. I am going to see what I can figure out with it tonight, but if I cannot resolve the myriad of problems, I will run it into GMC in the morning and have them hook it up to their system. I am anxious to figure out just what is going on----I put over a thousand miles on the truck this week without any issues or warning lights or codes.....Everything strange started happening immediately after I tried to reprogram for the larger tires.

I will post what I find out after I reconnect the battery leads.

[DmaxMaverick]

Once the batteries are disconnected, it's important to ground one positive cable. If not, it can take several hours (overnight or more) to clear the temporary (active) memory in the PCM.

Also check your fuses. Sounds like you may have a problem with powering up the accessories. If the clock is correct and you can eject CD's, it has stand-by power, just no IGN power. Not sure how that could be related to the programmer, though.

[chesapeakechuck]

You are the man. I just hooked up the battery leads and started the vehicle. All the codes are gone, the radio works and there is nothing screwy going on with the instrument cluster.

I am hesitant to plug the programmer back into the truck. Do you think that the program I put into the vehicle to correct for my tire size is now working? I will try to check it tomorrow with a hand held gps.

If you were in town I would buy you a beer. Thanks!

Oh, I did ground one of the leads to the frame.....Your suggestion worked like a charm.

[DmaxMaverick]

That's great. Sometimes, things just go right.

Unless you have a need, no reason to plug it back in. Check the speedo/odo tomorrow. I don't know if it worked, or not, you'll have to try it. If it's accurate, you'll see 55 MPH right at 1500 RPM, TC locked in OD. You may have to adjust the updated tire size a bit to get it accurate. I did. It depends on how accurate it needs to be.

If it were me, I'd try to duplicate the process, starting with the stock restore. I don't like not knowing, and it doesn't appear anything was damaged. If the programmer wasn't the problem, you have another gremlin that may show up again, and it may not be in a convenient place at a convenient time. That's how my luck runs, anyway.

[chesapeakechuck]

I checked my speedo on my way to work this morning. It looks to be reading correctly, so the programmer did download the new program to my trucks computer. I will see if anything strange happens over the next few weeks----I agree, I would like to know just exactly happened to the computer yesterday to make act up the way it did. I can pull my harley apart piece by piece, but computers definitly are not my thing.

[chesapeakechuck]

Today at lunchtime I noticed that my check engine light had come on again. The truck was throwing the PO380 code again. I didn't have any codes prior to messing with my tire programmer, but the code seems to be reappearing after I clear it out (after several starts). Maybe the code is real and not my comptuer being funny?

Would you recommend changing out the California emissions glowplug control box to see if this takes care of the problem? It looks to be pretty inexpensive and is plug and play.

[DmaxMaverick]

Why you're just now seeing it, I dunno.

P0380 is probably only a bad glow plug (or a couple/few). Easy to test on CA models. On top of the controller, there are two 4 pole connectors. Left is the left bank, right is the right bank. Disconnect and you can use either a test light or VOM to test to ground. If they are closed, they're good (in all likelihood). Open is bad, for sure. If you have a scanner that will read PCM data and GP voltage, it will tell you exactly how many plugs are bad, and later models will tell which one(s). Saves time and cramps under the fenders. If they all test good (probably not), the less likely suspect is a relay (in the controller), or the intake heater. The relays are replaceable, but the entire controller is WAY less expensive. None of these will slow you down, or do anything other than light up the SES. No harm, especially in Palm Springs, any time of year.

Changing the CA GP controller to the Fed will result in the code NEVER going away (and it won't pass smog with the SES on), and it won't "fit" without extensive/expensive rewiring. The SES lamp will come on every other "failed" test on a cold start (GP's active), then clear itself after a few warm starts (GP's inactive). I've had a couple bad plugs for years, and see the SES for this in the winter, and occasionally in mid-summer. I don't "wait" for the plug cycle, winter or summer, 0° or 100°, anyway. When I have a smog test, I get it hot, drive and restart until the SES is off, clear the code (it remains in history), then go in for the test. Haven't failed yet.

[EdHale]

Are you saying the SES light will go out after several hot starts with a bad glow plug? I have had 3 bad plugs over the years and my SES light has never gone out until I replaced the bad plug.


I have had my truck since new. It is the LBZ.

[DmaxMaverick]

Are you saying the SES light will go out after several hot starts with a bad glow plug? I have had 3 bad plugs over the years and my SES light has never gone out until I replaced the bad plug.


I have had my truck since new. It is the LBZ.

His is a 2003 CA LB7, but I'm not aware of behavior changes for the P038x codes through 2006. Perhaps you don't present the condition for it to turn off before it restarts the cycle, or there was a change I don't know about. Your 2006 LBZ is the 5th generation Duramax (relative to changes, not including CA models), so anything is possible, and GM didn't send me the memo.

[CoyleJR]

My 06 LBZ has had two glow plug failures and each time the SES light stayed on until I replaced the bad glow plugs. There must have been a change in the SES system.

[chesapeakechuck]

Update: I cleared the glow plug code out (PO380) with my OBD2 yesterday afternoon and am waiting to see if it reappears. I have done several starts/stops with the iginition since then and it remains off for the time being . I probably just jinxed it.

I guess this is part of the process one expects to go through when getting a used vehicle. I really do appreciate everybody's help. This site is the best!

[DmaxMaverick]

My 06 LBZ has had two glow plug failures and each time the SES light stayed on until I replaced the bad glow plugs. There must have been a change in the SES system.

Thanks. I haven't seen it, so never bothered to ask the question. Every LBZ GP failure I've seen so far has been replaced under warranty, so not much of any follow up. CA's emission system warranty is extensive, and GP's are included.

[chesapeakechuck]

Well, the engine light came back on today at lunch time----maybe its trying to tell me something :(.

I get about three starts out of the system after I clear the code before it comes back on...I have read some threads about checking the glow plugs with a multimeter for resistance...I think I can do this.....Is there an easy way to check the glow plug control module on my truck (CA emissions)?

[DmaxMaverick]

....Easy to test on CA models. On top of the controller, there are two 4 pole connectors. Left is the left bank, right is the right bank. Disconnect and you can use either a test light or VOM to test to ground. If they are closed, they're good (in all likelihood). Open is bad, for sure. If you have a scanner that will read PCM data and GP voltage, it will tell you exactly how many plugs are bad, and later models will tell which one(s). Saves time and cramps under the fenders. If they all test good (probably not), the less likely suspect is a relay (in the controller), or the intake heater. The relays are replaceable, but the entire controller is WAY less expensive. None of these will slow you down, or do anything other than light up the SES. No harm, especially in Palm Springs, any time of year......

Check the plugs first, before you key-on for a cold start. Then, (leave off the connectors), use your VOM, check the voltage at the controller GP OUTPUT connector (where the GP harness plugs in), as soon as you turn the key to RUN (don't crank). The voltage should come on, then go off, the same period as your WTS lamp. It's normal for the GP's to cycle again after the WTS lamp turns off, but you may not see it on a hot day. If you get power, the controller is working. If it never powers, it isn't. Do the same for the intake heater (before a start, wait 5 minutes between tests, check voltage at the connector nut on the heater plug in the intake plenum inlet pipe during the WTS period). Simple.

[ceide4489]

At one time there was a problem with the 06 glow plugs I know all of mine went and were recalled and replaced on the one I had but that was long ago