cooling system drain on engine block

[nblas]

Can someone tell me if there is, and where a cooling system drain is on the block of a 6.2 diesel engine?

[DieselDavy]

My 82 block had a drain on each side.
It would be pretty easy to just remove the bottom freeze plugs (that probably need changed anyway) to get all the crud out of the block. I'll bet there is a bunch of crud that should be flushed out of any 6.2 block still on the road.

[nblas]

My 82 block had a drain on each side.
It would be pretty easy to just remove the bottom freeze plugs (that probably need changed anyway) to get all the crud out of the block. I'll bet there is a bunch of crud that should be flushed out of any 6.2 block still on the road.

Sorry if this is not the correct way to respond, but your 82 block had a drain plug of some sort, or a valve or maybe what they call a petcock (spelling ??).

Can you tell me where exactly it is so that I can see if mine is in the same location?
I went under my 1985 6.2 on my CUCV truck and could not find any at all. Maybe hidden from view.

Thanx!

[DmaxMaverick]

The block drains are pipe thread plugs, threaded into the block. Square drive socket plugs will be flush or recessed. If you try to remove them, chances are they won't come out in one piece, and you'll have to drill and tap a repair.

The radiator may or may not have a petcock, but no petcock on the block unless someone put one there after the factory.

[Dr. Lee]

The factory drain plugs are partially blocked by the motor mounts, so when I had my custom engine built by a former advertiser here, I had them drill and tap additional drains on cast-in pads on the 599 block that were just BEGGING to have drains installed.

[nblas]

The factory drain plugs are partially blocked by the motor mounts, so when I had my custom engine built by a former advertiser here, I had them drill and tap additional drains on cast-in pads on the 599 block that were just BEGGING to have drains installed.


Thank you everyone for your input. I believe I found the drain, but as you mentioned it is partially blocked by the motor mount. Don't want to risk a breakage and another create another project.

I may just take a chance and try to flush it out the normal way by trying to get any crud out by letting the system push it out without the thermostat with the flush sold at the parts store.

I know its not the best way, but so much to do on many fronts and not enough time....

[DieselDavy]

Dr. Lee and DMax are correct about the location and usefulness. That is why I suggested just punching out the freeze plugs. The one on the passenger side is under the starter, but isn't that bad. If you really want to rinse out the block, I think you have to pull the plugs!
The crud that came out of my freeze plugs when I replaced them was amazing! When I did the conventional flush, it was flowing clear after a while, since one of the plugs didn't look good, I punched it out and couldn't believe it! So I flushed it again, punched out the other side and flushed some more!

[nblas]

Dr. Lee and DMax are correct about the location and usefulness. That is why I suggested just punching out the freeze plugs. The one on the passenger side is under the starter, but isn't that bad. If you really want to rinse out the block, I think you have to pull the plugs!
The crud that came out of my freeze plugs when I replaced them was amazing! When I did the conventional flush, it was flowing clear after a while, since one of the plugs didn't look good, I punched it out and couldn't believe it! So I flushed it again, punched out the other side and flushed some more!

Thank you DieselDavy, I think? You have just convinced me to pop out at least one (1) of the plugs. They all look good from the outside, but I will pop the easiest to access and drain it all out from there. I'll then pour in a whole lot of vinegar and let is sit for while (at least a day or 2) is what I've been told. Then rinse it out and pour new clean coolant in there. Its probably cheaper than buying the flush products from the parts stores out here on Guam.

It will actually make me feel a whole lot better and totally remove it from my mind. Thanx again!

[DmaxMaverick]

Vinegar is OK, but 2 days is a bit long. Vinegar is an acid, and can create as many issues as it cleans up. Before you pull the plug, use some instant tea (cheap brand is no different than the expensive stuff, you aren't going to drink it). About 1/2 cup in the system and a couple/few runs up to operating temp and cool again will loosen most of the scale in the engine. A thorough rinse usually leaves the internals shiny clean (with a bit of harmless tea stain). Any residue won't react with the coolant, like vinegar and flushing solvents can.

[DieselDavy]

DMax,
That is a good piece of advice. I have never heard about using tea before! So it must be a little "acidy"? How does it work? It does sound easy enough!
I'll try that next time.

[DaveKay]

What about the old Cascade dishwashing powder for the wife's auto-dishwasher? Can't give any exact instructions but a search will pop up many versions of this method.

Myself, I tried it on a Dexcool gummed-up 5.7 gasser cooling sys and it did a fair job. The result was good enough for an emergency flush-n-fill because I had plans for a 400 mile trip when this Dexcool problem came up. Just use a backflush tee to push the stuff out from another direction and flush, flush, flush. And don't forget to flush the heater core while in the process.