Alignment Problem?

[chuckf]

I just installed new tires (4) and had the front end aligned, but the truck pulls to the right (when in 2 wheel drive). It was pulling to the right before I had the tires and alignment done. I am confident in my mechanics alignment and the tire install. My mechanic has checked ball joints etc. I replaced both front bearing assemblies within the past 2 years. Can a CV joint cause this problem? What else can cause this problem?Your help would be appreciated. Mileage on the vehicle 218,000.

[Andy Chesek]

This is something I've been living with, though it annoys me. Had new tires put on, and had alignments done at two different shops to confirm everything was within spec.

My brakes are in perfect working order, nothing sticking. I have the Helm manuals, and another possibility it lists is the steering gearbox... there's a particular valve inside that can cause the pull to either side. Its answer is to replace the valve, but I don't know if that's included in any rebuild kit you could pick up at an auto store.

[catmandoo]

as it did it before i doubt this is your problem but about 5 years ago i put new tires on my old pontiac and it developed a pull to the right,so just out of curiosity i switched it to the left side and then it pulled left,you can even get new tires that are junk.

[Alf]

Not to cast doubt at your alignment tech, but what are the caster and camber settings at now.
Do you have a before and after print out?
CV joints can cause a pull (but they'd be so bad as to be noisey)
balljoints (By allowing changes in caster and camber)
bearings
sticking calipers
uneven ride height
Tires, and tire pressures (although more noticable in front drive cars)

Micha

[Mainous]

Definitely go back to the alignment settings printout and check the caster. Most alignment shops won't adjust caster because they have to use a special punch tool to open up slots at the rear of the upper control arms. Caster that's off on one side will result in a pull. These trucks come out of the factory with caster set up to allow for heavy loads which most trucks only see sporadically. If they are brought into spec while unloaded they drive much better and I have found that they don't "scallop" the outer edges of the front tires nearly as bad.

The shops around here charge an extra $50 per side to open up the slots to set caster properly. Pay the money.

Just my $.02 worth.

[catmandoo]

they had to open those slots on my sub when i had the alignment done last year and after they got done it tracks perfect,my only problem is the tires are scalloping just alittle,but i rotate every 5000 so it really doesn't bother me that much.it gets about 95% of its driving in town so it's turning alot.

[nvmtnlion]

I was lucky and found a great alignment shop here in Reno that I took my truck to when I first got it, they told me that I needed to pay the $65 to set the caster properly. I had them do it and my pulling went away instantly. Now.. tires :D

[eracers999]

They can tell you it is with in specs, you can look at the print out and see that it is within spec's, and if you look at the difference between left and right they can be at oposite ends of the specs and that will cause it to pull right. I've paid the money and had it done and had the same outcome as you. Ill just take care of it myself when i get the motor done..

Good luck

Kent

[damork]

I don't have my last alignment results close by, but 2 or 3 years ago someone published recommended caster, camber, and toe in settings for IFS GM light trucks. Basically IIRC, the toe in was very slightly in - but near 0, the camber was also set to where the tires are nearly vertical, hardly any tip to them. Anyway, I followed the advice and handling is superb and tire wear is hardly noticeable - just even.

Getting a shop to listen to you is the challenge, they all want to follow the cookbook, but my experience with that is worn tires.

[chuckf]

Thanks for everyones input. Alf, I will check with my mechanic about the final settings on the alignment. I am noticing a noise in the front right CV joint when I crank the wheel all the way to one side (when in 4 wheel drive). I noticed the truck is vibrating more. How difficult is it to remove the CV joint? This maybe the problem.

[Govt issue]

I am allignment ASE certified. Can you get me a copy of your specs?

[chuckf]

Govt Issue:
My mechanics alignment system is the older analog system. He does not have a computer print-out.

[Govt issue]

then your pull might be in the caster. You can't measure caster. it must be calculated. If his equip. is that old, it might be off, or it might not even make that measurment. Call around and find a shop that has a hunter alignment machine. Ask if it does 4 wheel alignment. These are the most acurate and easy to use. Also if they have that machine they are probley factory trained. ask for the measurments before and after. If you ask the tech this up front then you will probley get a good allignment. Let me know if you have any more questions, forgive the spelling.

[Alf]

The Axle assembly isn't too hard to get out. Hardest part for a do it yourselfer is getting the big nut on the cvjoint end off and on. Remember not to put vehicle weight on the tire when the joint isn't in the hub and tightend, the bearing can seperate. While it will go back together, its life is over.

[chuckf]

Alf,
I have replaced the front bearings previously. Is the big nut on the cvjoint end the same one that has to be removed when removing the bearing or are you referring to something else. Also after the bearing is removed does anything else need to be removed before the shaft can be removed? Is there a torque spec on the CV joint nut? Is it easier/cheaper (depending on your level of pain) to replace the shaft an CV joint as one unit? Do you know of any good parts stores that can provide this shaft/CV assy or do I have to go to a dealer? Thanks for the help.

[chuckf]

Govt Issue:
I spoke with my mechanic (he is an old friend so I trust his judgement, plus he is very experienced) about the caster and he said that it was ok he only had to adjust the toe. Now I didn't ask him specifically if he calculated the castor, but I will the next chance I can. Thanks for the heads up.

[Govt issue]

Trucks tend to lead to the side with the least amount of caster. If you have 2+ on the driver side and 1+ on the passanger side it will pull to the passanger side. A 1 degree caster split will cause a pull. But no tire wear. caster dosen't effect tire wear.

[Alf]

Alf,
I have replaced the front bearings previously. Is the big nut on the cvjoint end the same one that has to be removed when removing the bearing or are you referring to something else. Also after the bearing is removed does anything else need to be removed before the shaft can be removed? Is there a torque spec on the CV joint nut? Is it easier/cheaper (depending on your level of pain) to replace the shaft an CV joint as one unit? Do you know of any good parts stores that can provide this shaft/CV assy or do I have to go to a dealer? Thanks for the help.

That big nut is the one!
When replacing an axle assembly I don't remove the bearing, although that's one way to do it.
I prefer to remove the big nut, then the six bolts at the other end. then remove the three bolts that hold the front diff in place. with the diff loose it can be moved around enough to pull the axle assembly out from under the vehicle.
The most cost efective way to deal with bad outer cv joints is to replace the whole assembly with a remanufactured unit. Most parts stores can get the assebly to you for under a hundred bucks. Comes with new boots on both ends and remachined joints. Prices on new parts from the dealer should not be veiwed by those of faint heart
Tourqe spec on the big nut is 173 FT/LB
Have fun!

[chuckf]

Govt Issue and ALF,
Thanks for the information. It is really appreciated. It's -4F here today, so I won't be crawling under the truck anytime soon. I let you know how I make out when I replace the CV joint.

[chuckf]

Replaced the passenger side CV joint assembly. While under the vehicle I found a broken link pin on the same side. Replaced the pin and the CV assembly. Truck still pulling to the right. While checking the steering linkage I noticed the driver side tire was "loose". Found the CV joint nut loose. I think the bearing is shot. Could be the cause of the pulling. Any thoughts?

[damork]

chuckf

Sounds like you are near finding the root cause of the problem. If a bearing is faulty, I wouldn't be surprised if you have pulling/alignment adjustment problems.