2003 LB7 Coolant Loss

[mmiddle]

OK, I've searched the web for days on this any nothing.
Here is the particulars. 2003 Dmax/Ali, bone stock with a PPE boost valve, 180,000 miles. I changed the injectors for the first time last week-end. While removing them #2 injector cup lifted so I resealed it. All other cups stayed in place. The origianal injectors were pluged up with the typical metalic sludge.
At the same time I put a full set of gauges on it. Normal EGT at cruse ~5-600, idle@ 250 WOT upwards of 1100. FRP idle 6,000 cruse at 2200rmp= 25,000. Boost cruse @ 2200 = 1-3PSI WOT max 23PSI

The engine is still smoking after about 800 miles but is loosing water before and after injector change. I just added some Barr's Leak Alumi-liquid. Smoking is reduced but not totally gone. Radiator hoses are soft all the time. No bubbles in surge tank. No fuel or coolent in oil/no oil in coolent.
I have not yet done a pressure check/moister check on glowplug.Or a balance rate check

My question is... being the turbo is water cooled can the seals go bad and leak water into the exhaust stream causing the smoke? Has anyone else found this to be a problem? I do not think it is leaking in the cold-side of the turbo, I did not find any signs when I had it apart.

The truck runs so much better than it did after the injector change. Its like a new truck.

[rapidoxidationman]

Are you sure the coolant is going out the tailpipe and not leaking from the water pump or related plumbing under the driver's side of the engine?

[mmiddle]

I have seen no trace of extrenal leaking. The smoke from the tail pipe is different now than before the injector change. Before is was a "heavy cloud" that lingered near the the ground. Now it rises and disperses rapidly more like steam. but does not feel moist like steam.
Make since?

[More Power]

OK, I've searched the web for days on this any nothing.
Here is the particulars. 2003 Dmax/Ali, bone stock with a PPE boost valve, 180,000 miles. I changed the injectors for the first time last week-end. While removing them #2 injector cup lifted so I resealed it. All other cups stayed in place. The origianal injectors were pluged up with the typical metalic sludge.
At the same time I put a full set of gauges on it. Normal EGT at cruse ~5-600, idle@ 250 WOT upwards of 1100. FRP idle 6,000 cruse at 2200rmp= 25,000. Boost cruse @ 2200 = 1-3PSI WOT max 23PSI

The engine is still smoking after about 800 miles but is loosing water before and after injector change. I just added some Barr's Leak Alumi-liquid. Smoking is reduced but not totally gone. Radiator hoses are soft all the time. No bubbles in surge tank. No fuel or coolent in oil/no oil in coolent.
I have not yet done a pressure check/moister check on glowplug.Or a balance rate check

My question is... being the turbo is water cooled can the seals go bad and leak water into the exhaust stream causing the smoke? Has anyone else found this to be a problem? I do not think it is leaking in the cold-side of the turbo, I did not find any signs when I had it apart.

The truck runs so much better than it did after the injector change. Its like a new truck.

The cooling passages within the turbocharger are not exposed to the turbine shaft. So, coolant can't leak to either the inlet or outlet of the turbo.

If there is no visible leak site on the engine it has to be exiting out the tailpipe.

However, from under the truck, look closely at the aluminum transmission adapter between the engine and the transmission. Coolant flows across the back of the engine within that adapter. Look along the sides and bottom of that adapter plate for evidence of evaporated crusty orange coolant residue.

Look at the bottom of the water pump where the weep hole is located, looking for evaporated crusty orange coolant residue.

Let us know what you discover. Jim

[Kennedy]

OK, I've searched the web for days on this any nothing.
Here is the particulars. 2003 Dmax/Ali, bone stock with a PPE boost valve, 180,000 miles. I changed the injectors for the first time last week-end. While removing them #2 injector cup lifted so I resealed it. All other cups stayed in place. The origianal injectors were pluged up with the typical metalic sludge.

This "typical metallic sludge" was not there until you loosened the lines and ground it up. If you did not replace the lines when you did injectors you put another bunch of this crap into the inlet bowl of your new injectors.

At the same time I put a full set of gauges on it. Normal EGT at cruse ~5-600, idle@ 250 WOT upwards of 1100. FRP idle 6,000 cruse at 2200rmp= 25,000. Boost cruse @ 2200 = 1-3PSI WOT max 23PSI

The engine is still smoking after about 800 miles but is loosing water before and after injector change. I just added some Barr's Leak Alumi-liquid. Smoking is reduced but not totally gone. Radiator hoses are soft all the time. No bubbles in surge tank. No fuel or coolent in oil/no oil in coolent.
I have not yet done a pressure check/moister check on glowplug.Or a balance rate check.

I would suggest a cooling system pressure check followed by removal of all 8 glow plugs and then spin it over with the injector fuse disabled. Watch for the coolant spray. This will tell you which cup(s) is leaking.


My question is... being the turbo is water cooled can the seals go bad and leak water into the exhaust stream causing the smoke? Has anyone else found this to be a problem? I do not think it is leaking in the cold-side of the turbo, I did not find any signs when I had it apart.

The truck runs so much better than it did after the injector change. Its like a new truck.


Also check the aluminum heater tube/hose that runs down above the frame rail. They tend to pinhole where the stay bracket is welded on.

[More Power]

I would suggest a cooling system pressure check followed by removal of all 8 glow plugs and then spin it over with the injector fuse disabled. Watch for the coolant spray. This will tell you which cup(s) is leaking.

John, How sensitive is this sort of test? I can imagine a wide range of potential cup leaks that could leak a tiny amount or a lot...

Being the sort who hates doing the same job twice, I tend to lean more toward re-sealing & re-o-ringing all eight cups just as precaution when changing out the injectors. Wish there was a way to know for sure whether cups need to be resealed.... Jim

[Kennedy]

We don't do a ton of service work, but one of the jobs that we typically take is LB7 injectors. Jeremy takes his time and knock on wood we've had zero issues. We seldom have cups come out and with revised technique starting a few jobs back haven't had any come up. A combination of using an old HP line as a "handle" an old return bolt to pry on and a steady wiggle and pull technique has worked well. We only pull them if they come up.

if there is no pressure in the cooling system it's a pretty fair leak. Doing a pressure test as described will push into the cylinder(s) that leak and should give a positive ID. Chances are it's just the one that came up and housekeeping was not quite clean enough when it was put back in.

I recently had a local DIY customer with similar issues. They had been fighting cup leaks, copper leaks, etc. We did a set of performance injectors for him. They puled all 8 cups resealed and went back together. They ended up with heavy white smoke at hot restart and zero pressure in the system. This obviously has to be a pretty substantial leak. They did the method above and found that they had 3 cups leaking. Thankfully all on the same bank.