6.2L secondary fuel filter?

[Bulletbandit]

I have a 1982 C20 6.2L truck that I've had for a couple of years now (my 1st experience with diesel eng). Engine and transmission both rebuilt not long before I purchased the truck. She runs great no big issues so far (knock on wood).

The only thing that really chaps my rear is changing the secondary fuel filter (under air filter on back of manifold). It's an absolute pain in my old back to reach the dang thing and I have a fear of cross threading one of the fuel lines one of these days.

I'm trying to figure out an alternative place to mount it, or some other way to make it easier to get to.

I spoke to a diesel mechanic today that suggested that it didn't need two filters and that I could just bypass it. I'm ok with that as long as it doesn't cause problems later on.

Don't want anything fancy, but if there's a way to move/replumb this thing without too much hair pulling out. It would save a lot of pain, foul language and thrown tools.

Just wondering if anybody had a fix for this or any suggestions.

Thanks Bulletbandit!

[sctrailrider]

I'm not sure but I think you are talking about the square box type filter...

That one should be replaced with something else, any spin on type filter & base can be fitted, try and use a 5 micron filter. You can mount the base about anywhere that is easiest for you and redo the fuel lines and your set.

[Robyn]

The filter you speak of is needed. The primary filter gets the large crap and the water out, the second one is the final word at clearing any fine stuff.

The cleaner the fuel, the longer the IP AND INJECTORS will last

I would say that a relocate would be in order.

Lots of good places to hang a filter.

A Racor 2 micron with a bowl would be sweet.
A 230R2 Racor is a good choice, and uses a spin on cartridge with a removable water bowl.

Mount this filter where you can get to it and run hose from the pimary filter to your new secondary, then on to the line that feeds the IP

Be careful to route your lines so the are safe from chafing or hot places.

Be aware that a 2 micron filter is actually finer than the factory filter, and will plug easier too if the fuel is dirty. The primary unit on these trucks is a good water and clod sifter.

A word here on why there are two filters used. Back in 82 the factory had it right, a primary filter/water seperator and then a secondary filter to get the fuel nice and clean.

Along came the bean counters and decided that this was a waste of $$$ that the company could save by going to a single fuel manager unit, such as was found on later years.

By 86 the dual filters were long gone, replaced by a single, easy to change little square box gizmo. These filter/fuel managers contained the fuel heater, water in fuel indicator and the filter box.

Although easy to deal with, these filters were small and maginally effective at really doing the job well.

Take a look at any class 8 heavy truck diesel, and you will always see a pair of filters on the engine. Many times there will be a water seperator/primary filter on the frame before the transfer pump, and then the secondary filter on the engine before the fuel heads to the injectors.

These guys dont cheese on filters.

The mid/late 90's Ford Powestroke units had a tiny little dixie cup sized filter that was waaaaaaaaaay too small to handle the job.

Sad that these large manufactures want to cheese in a place thats mission critical.

Clean fuel is one of the cheapest ways to keep the thing alive and well.

The factory beanies figure that even with one cheapy filter, that the thing will last until the warranty is up, :eek:

After that it's no longer their problem.

A poor way to think, but thats the way it is.

FILTERS FILTERS FILTERS, KEEP THE FUEL SQUEEKY CLEAN AND HAVE A HAPPY TRUCK AND OWNER :)


Missy

[Bulletbandit]

No, Sctrailrider on 82 & 83 models both filters are spin on. But you are correct about the new base and filter. I spent all day researching base and filter combinations (talk about mind numbing). I was able to finally come up with the combination of a WIX base #24770 with WIX filter #33352. It will give me 6 micron filtration (same as original). The only thing I'm not sure of with this set-up is the flow rate. Original filter is rated at 6-8 gpm, new filter 12-15 gpm. Not sure if that could overload system used to 6-8 gpm.

Yes Robyn, I agree on two filter system and I think I've found a place next to primary filter to mount it. There's an old and very cracked up plastic cover over the blower fan etc. that will have to go. It's falling apart and I don't think it serves much purpose other than sound deadening any way (may have to live with louder truck).

Only other question I have now is, what's the best goop to use to seal threads on new base fittings (I've heard teflon is no good for fuel).

Thanks again Bulletbandit!

[arveetek]

On my old '81 C20 conversion that used an '82 donor motor, I actually unbolted the secondary filter from the back of the intake manifold, and then bolted it to the firewall above the engine. I cut and flared the factory steel fuel lines and used rubber hoses to extend the lines up to the new location. Worked like a champ for many years, and I didn't have to buy a new filter mount!

Why in the world GM decided to mount the filter in that spot, I'll never know. (Okay, so it probably had to do with packaging, and being able to use the same engine in multiple platforms; still, what a pain to change the filter!)

Casey

[Bulletbandit]

Yes, Arveetek. That was my original plan untill, I thought it might be best to keep the original base as a spare. The way my luck goes I'd crack it or otherwise screw it up trying to remount it.

However, now that you mentioned flaring the tubing and using hose and clamps. I wonder if replacing the tubing with hose, while leaving the filter head on the manifold would allow me enough flex in the hose to get the filter out of there without having to unhook everything? Can the filter be pulled out if the fuel lines were flexible? Something else to consider anyway.

Tomorrow I going to try an old junkyard near here that has lots of cars and trucks from that era (my buddy found a front end for an 81 buick there). Ya never know!;)

[Subzilla]

Still may be difficult to remove the secondary filter even with flexible lines. I always disconnect the lines, unbolt the base/filter and pull it out of the engine compartment. Usually the filter has glued itself to the base and it's much easier to unscrew on the workbench.

[NH2112]

When I had my 6.2l pickup, I mounted the OEM Stanadyne model 80 filter (Wix 33136) to the core support underneath the snorkel tube, which made it easy to plumb in after the lift pump by cutting the OEM hardline from the lift pump to filter and using rubber fuel hose. I then ran another rubber hose from the filter to the remainder of the hardline, and mounted a Racor 445R with 2-micron R45S element in the OEM location as my secondary. Both filters were easy to access for servicing, and I could use the hand primer pump on the Racor to prime the system after changing either filter, there was no need to crank the heck out of the engine like before. Eventually I'm going to do something similar with my F350.