Starter continues to run for a few seconds

[DennisG01]

I'm going to go out and check things -- pull the wheel, fender flap -- check connections, maybe add some WD-40, but...

The engine starts just fine, turns over quickly and fires right off. But the starter continues to run for about 2 seconds. There is no grinding, just starter "whirl".

If I turn the key to "start" for the briefest of seconds and then let go (like you're "bumping" the engine), the engine will continue to crank and start by itself (Hey - I guess I've got something like "push button" start!) and the starter will again stay running for about seconds.

I'm guessing that something's amiss with the solenoid (contacts?), but I've never had one apart to say.

Any thoughts? Is it "new starter" time? As far as I know, it's original ('bout 135,000 miles on the truck - I got it at 60K).

Is there a possibility that the starter will soon STAY running and not stop after the two seconds?

[rapidoxidationman]

quick and easy test of the relay that activates the starter solenoid: swap it for one of the other ones in the fuse box in the engine bay. If that fixes it, just get a new relay.

Something is getting stuck and IIRC there's only the key, relay, and solenoid in the path.

[DennisG01]

Good idea. I went out and tried that - used the A/C relay since it had the same part number.

Swapped and started the engine - it ran-on for about a second. I started it up again and all was normal. I swapped relays back and everything is normal. I started it up about 6 or 7 times in a row and all was normal.

[Big Green]

I've seen this a time or two if the starter wasn't shimmed correctly in some cases or if the wrong starter/flywheel was there. Once it was just a matter of the inside of the drive gear getting sticky and not wanting to slide back like it should

Big Green

[DennisG01]

I've seen this a time or two if the starter wasn't shimmed correctly in some cases or if the wrong starter/flywheel was there. Once it was just a matter of the inside of the drive gear getting sticky and not wanting to slide back like it should

Big Green

The starter has been reattached to the engine (after rebuild) for about 50K miles - would I be correct in assuming that shimming isn't the problem? But the second thing you mentioned certainly sounds feasible - at least to me. I looked through the fender and from underneath. Nothing stood out (to me) as obvious places to spray some lubricant. Is there? Would it help?

I did notice that the small bracket is not bolted to the block. I can see that it was at one point (tell tale signs of a bolt head being there), but it is not now. I will address that ASAP.

[DmaxMaverick]

Probably not a gear-mesh problem, although don't rule that out, ultimately. A "perfect match", is sometimes too perfect. The drive gear can get a groove worn into it, which can cause it to hang in too long.

The sticky Bendix is another possibility. If you can, lubricating the thrust bearing and shaft would be short-lived, if you tried that. Replacement is the only real solution.

Lastly, and the most likely suspect, is the relay or solenoid. When they wear out, they either stop working completely, or hang on power-off. Not unusual for the solenoid to do that, nor for a relay. Or the IGN switch either, for that matter (they are usually intermittent). If the starter solenoid hangs (the Bendix doesn't return), it will keep the field contact, in contact, continuing the the run-on. It's a double-duty, in that, the solenoid engages, plunges the contact disc to the field contacts, and engages the Bendix, simultaneously. If the power goes away, but the Bendix doesn't return, the power continues to feed the field. A solenoid is a relay, and a relay is a solenoid, as it relates to starters.

If you've switched the relay (small), and it "fixed" the issue, then it's probably a done deal. Messing with the power ahead of the starter solenoid wouldn't change anything, if the starter solenoid was the problem. Coincidence, notwithstanding (meaning, it may mean everything, or nothing).

[a5150nut]

I did notice that the small bracket is not bolted to the block. I can see that it was at one point (tell tale signs of a bolt head being there), but it is not now. I will address that ASAP.

Fix this first. Cheapest thing to do also. While there check monting holes and base of starter for cracks where it mounts.

[sctrailrider]

Mine did this a few weeks ago, not the same year truck but it was my switch on the lower part of the column, it was a little old and the built in spring was not as strong as a new one, a new switch fixed mine for 15$.

[DennisG01]

It worked fine this morning - but I left it in the garage. Last night I swapped relays around a few times, but everything kept working fine (after that initial swap where the starter still ran-on). The next time there's a problem, I'll swap right away - just to double check.

Jim, I think it was you that a while back had a good recommendation on a place to get starters? Do you still have that? I think I'll file that away in a bookmark foe future use.

Chris, any idea if my truck uses the same switch? Was it hard to get to? I'm not one to throw parts at something to fix it, but it sounds like this would at least be good information to know more about.

Now that I know about that bolt missing from the little bracket, it worries me! Anyone know, offhand, the size of the bolt for this little bracket? Don't go to too much trouble - I can always just start trying some different ones.

[sctrailrider]

I think, ( not sure tho ), they are the same.... a look at rock auto part## will be good for different years...

It was easy, unbolt the column under the dash(2 nuts) and pull it down, the switch is on the top side, ( 2bolts)there is a metal rod that runs from the key cly down to the switch, took me about a hour to fix...

[sctrailrider]

I just looked at rock auto... not the same, not even close.... much more $$$

glad I have a old truck LOL..:p

[DennisG01]

Thanks for checking. It probably has something to do with the security features of the late models?

Just for reference, is this it? Looks like it's all electrical - no springs.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=96976&cc=1305010

part # 26075995

[sctrailrider]

Thanks for checking. It probably has something to do with the security features of the late models?

Just for reference, is this it? Looks like it's all electrical - no springs.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=96976&cc=1305010

part # 26075995

I think so, look at the same switch for a 91, lot different than yours, the electronic is the difference me thinks...

[DieselDavy]

I think you will find that fixing the front support, you will fix this problem. This has the same effect as "shimming" as it will keep the gears hitting each other at the right angles.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

[DennisG01]

I think you will find that fixing the front support, you will fix this problem. This has the same effect as "shimming" as it will keep the gears hitting each other at the right angles.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

Definitely will keep updated. My "guess" is that the bolt that holds the front bracket on has been missing for about 50K miles... :)

[sctrailrider]

You might be lucky as the corner of the block is still there :D

[DennisG01]

You might be lucky as the corner of the block is still there :D

I know. I read some threads about that and that's what got me worried. I parked it and won't run (start) it till I fix it tonight. If I had never noticed the little bracket missing, I probably could drive it for another 50K - but now that I saw it......