Flush My Engine

[w6bauer]

Just bought a parts truck for $400 bucks to get my 92 going. Its got a 6.5TD with bad head gasket. Guy I bought it from has the heads tore off and laying in the bed. The engine has been open in a garage for 2 months with nothing to keep debris out. He looked to be a hackmire, bolts strewn everywhere, pushrods laying in the valley in disarray. Little cat footprints all over everything and the acrid smell of urine and shat from cats and dogs is permanently embedded in every part of this truck. I thought 400 was a good deal as I was able to take a good look at the inside of the motor. With 212000 I can barely feel any wear in the cylinders. My question is what is the best thing I can do to flush all the bs from the block that has fallen in since hes had the heads off for so long. I know there are parts and pieces of the head gaskets down in there for sure. I dont want to use anything that is going to eat away at the engine seals or adversly effect the main and rod bearings. I did check the oil and it has not had any coolant contamination.

My plans are to reassemble the engine in the truck and hook it all up to see if she runs then I can test out the 4x4 and transmission so I know whats good for selling purposes. Then if the motor is what I want I will pull it out and drop the pan and get any larger pieces that may be in there out.

I want to pour some stuff down from the top before I start the engine. What are your reccomendations and cautions.

Diesel, Gasoline, Kerosene, Acetone, Degreaser????????? Thats what I have on hand as of now.


Suggestions appreciated.


Will

[Kennedy]

I thgink pouring down would be best done with an oil. Maybe Marvels?

A couple/few quarts of diesel added to overfill the crankcase and idle until good and warm. Pull the plug and watch out it will be like diarrhea.

FWIW: MANY LB7 Dmax engines have had their crankcases full to where it pushed out the breathers while driving and lived to run fine for years to come.

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
Remove the drain plug and flush with some diesel through any holes.If you have a spray parts washer use that.
Clean the gasket surfaces good befor you do the final flush.
Search through the threads and you will find all the info you need to do a good job.
Ask any questions you have and someone will answer
Good luck with your cleaning
Thomas

[w6bauer]

Got the engine all cleaned up and put back together. I used a shop vac to start and did the best I could, then compressed air. I then poured about a gallon of diesel through all the oil passages and rigged a small hose and blew water through all the coolant passages with plugs removed. Then I poured some thin 5-20 oil through it and pulled the drain plug. I did see lots of chunks come out.

Reinstalled oil filter adapter, oil plug new filter and oil and slapped her together. Heads were not warped or cracked, barely any imperfections aside from the precups with 2 minor cracks in each not close to fire ring. Deck was in great shape. Installed heads then a set of ARP studs.

After a good sized battle with bleeding the injector lines, burnt up starter, and a new Lift pump she came alive and ran great.

Got it pulled out and stuffed in the 92, just working on getting it all wired up.

[Kennedy]

After a good sized battle with bleeding the injector lines, burnt up starter, and a new Lift pump she came alive and ran great.

Got it pulled out and stuffed in the 92, just working on getting it all wired up.

Really no need to open lines to bleed. They'll prime themselves. Just be gentle with the starter and have a charger on the batteries.

[w6bauer]

Good to know. Thank you. Can someone help me out with IP wiring for the mechanical pump. Its got 3 spots to put wires to and I have no idea which one goes where. The PO has 4 connectors spliced and cobbled into harness. All I need to know is what I have to have plugged in to make it run....Shutoff solenoid? What do the other two do? Also I need a picture of Cruise/Throttle bracket setup. I cant figure how they go, If I put the throttle cable to the back hookup on ip it wont pull, put it on the front hookup it works but looks as though this is the one for cruise. Cruise cable seems to short, flipped bracket now too long. What am I missing?

[sctrailrider]

The throttle & cruse go on the same point on the IP, the cruse goes on first then the throttle cable. I will look for a closeup pic of the wiring for you and post it.

[Robyn]

An easy trick to remember, to get an engine primed and not waste the starter and your patience is to pull the glow plugs out, then spin the engine.

With the plugs out the engine will spin really fast and the injectors will not have to fight the compression.

Total time to get the thing bled and ready with fuel blowing out the glow plug holes will be about 30 seconds or so.

Missy

[w6bauer]

Thanks trail rider, I do need a picture though. The cable bracket on the truck has another bracket that bolts to it for the cruise and the holes line up one of two ways, and either way I mount it the cable is either too long or too short. Could this be a problem with the cruise box, if so any insight on that would be helpful.

Thank you Missy for the tip on bleeding. I just pulled glow plugs. What I need to know for the IP is which terminals control what. There are two on the passenger side of pump that I am unclear about, the other is on what looks to be an idle control solenoid. Ive got a bundle of splices and crimps that Im trying to sort through to possibly eliminate the unecessary crap. How would I go about testing these? Which ones are supposed to have power when?

[sctrailrider]

Maybe these will help you, I have the directions for setting the cruse cable if you need that.

2382

2383

2384