Exh.gas bubbles in cooling water tank.

[BorJansson]

Nice Christmaspresent !

1994 Chevy Silverado 4WD with 150 000 miles on the meter.
I´ll start to work on it tomorrow.

Question is - can I lift only the motor out or must the transmission come with the motor as a package ?

Tips an tricks are highly appreciated .

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1994 Chevrolet Silverado k1500 4WD
1989 Buick LeSabre Estate Wagon with 6,5l diesel and THM700r
1962 Harley Davidson
BorJansson

[DennisG01]

Can't offer any tips or tricks, because I didn't do it myself... But, yes, the engine can come out w/o removing the tranny.

[rapidoxidationman]

Do you have to take the engine out on the 6.5 to change head gaskets or can you just jack it up, remove the front wheels, and lower the front end to the floor for fairly easy access?

[BorJansson]

I´ll change pistonrings and bearings att the same time.
Better to do the whole package " when the trousers are down".
I plan to have this rig for several yeras to come.

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BorJansson

[Yukon6.2]

Hi Bor
Is the trany automatic?If yes then its easy to pull the motor only,getting it in is easyer with the auto trans.The last one i did i changed the motor mounts to an aftermarket pollly one the rubber ones were shot.I put it in with turbo starter and pretty much everything on the motor,it was a quick swap from one to another,donar was running good so i didn't change anything i have to,The truck it was going in was a manual trans and it took me a while to get it lined up by myself,auto would slip right in.
Have fun
Thomas

[BorJansson]

Thank´s Thomas !

Automatc tranny and 4WD.

I have been working with the front today and some work under the engine.
There are three extra coolers, steering/brake servo oil cooler, engine oil cooler and a tranny oil cooler. Last one have tricky connections for the pipes. With lots of rust remover and easy progress I hope to get them loose tomorrow without destroying something.

Having fun - there are different kinds of amusements :-)

BorJansson

[Robyn]

Unhook batteries
Drain coolant
Remove shroud, fan, radiator, alt, ps pump, ac pump
No need to unhook ps and ac lines, just lay over and tie up.
Remove turbo
Remove RH tire/wheel and block rig
Remove rubber inner fender flap to gain access to starter wires and tail hook.
Remove starter
Remove flywheel cover (6 bolts)
Remove front drive shaft (4x4)
Remove flex plate bolts, and shove converter back (1/2")
Remove Exh manifs and xover
Remove two long front motor mount bolts.
Remove the 6 bell housing bolts
Unplug all wires at main harness in the rear of engine.
Unplug ops plug and glow plug controller plug and tie up
Remove ops and glow controller.
Unplug glow plugs and get the wires in a safe area.
Jack up tranny with a floor jack, use a flat board on the tranny pan and be gentle.
Use a chain with hooks and grab the engine at the front and rear lift hooks.
**** note***
The fuel lines are held by the top two bell housing bolts (stud top bolts with metric nuts)
Unhook fuel feed lines at rear of engine.
Remove fuel manager (early on to gain room to work)

You may want to remove the RH front motor mount from the frame just after you take up the slack on your hoist.

Make sure all the ground wires and battery cables and engine temp switch plug are unhooked.

There are two ground wires at the rear of the engine near the tranny dip stick tube, unhook these and unbolt the dip stick tube from the manifold.
Remove the heater feed tube from the water xover.

At this point the engine should easily slip forward with a slight lift on it.
With the front RH motor mount removed, the engine can be swung slightly right and then come out.

Some will argue that the manifolds can stay on, GET THEM OFF as it gives you far more room to work.

The tranny cooler lines usually hook into a clip on the RH front of the pan rail, so watch for them.

Missy

[BorJansson]

Thank You Robyn for Your detailed list.
I'm slowly working trough it.

I wish You a Happy New Year !

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BorJansson

[Robyn]

If you decide to tear it down and rebuild it, pretty much everything is straight forward.

The one thing that is seldom mentioned and often overlooked is the push rods.

These must go with the copper colored ball to the rocker.

Just mark them in some fashion as the color goes away over time.

This is very important as the one end is hard and one is not, and swapping them will cause a failure in time.

Other than this, the only other thing is that the head bolts are one time use (TTY or torque to yield) and once removed, they get tossed.

New bolts with new gaskets, always. Felpro sells them and they are not too $$$$$$

OH, BE SURE to place a sharp straight scribe line across the IP FLANGE AND THE TIMING COVER.

This will allow the IP to go back and the timing to be pretty much spot on.

Good luck

Robyn

[BorJansson]

Now the engine is out.
It took a while and was a bit of a challange.
I took away the head on drivers side so far.
It´s black and greasy inside, not black oil - more like dirty black grease.
Cylinderswalls looks like a mirror - they need at least to be honed.
It´ll take days to clean, check for cracks, measure bearings, cylinder, pistons and figure out what stuff/goodies to order.
Its a 599 block and witin some day I know if it´s free from cracks.

.........................................
BorJansson
www.borjan.ax

[mrwilecoyote]

Wow that is alot of work. headgaskets are easy to do in truck.
Good Luck.
I would recommend ARP studs.