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View Full Version : 2000 6.5 td stalls/runs rough after about ten miles



mattcr19
12-21-2012, 07:23
Ok so here it goes my first td but I'm pretty mechanical and have a good knowledge as I've researched as much as I could. So yes I've moved the pmd with heat sync, new IP and all the fuel lines along with LP replaced, the fuel sending sock and checked and solenoid on top of the pump is brand new. I have not put in a different resistor so its defaulted to #5. Could the plastic turbo power cover be trapping too much heat? Truck dosnt get over 190degrees, so I'm stumped all this work besides the fuel lines and IP were done last October and the rest about a month ago please help I'm lost on this truck is beautiful black 3500 dually that just hit 100k mi truck dosnt smoke starts up beautifully except after stall I turn the engine over after stall and dosnt start, 2nd time you turnit over boom its running again for a few min if its been running for 20-30 min prior to stall.... Any thoughts?

DennisG01
12-21-2012, 08:14
Ok so here it goes my first td but I'm pretty mechanical and have a good knowledge as I've researched as much as I could. So yes I've moved the pmd with heat sync, new IP and all the fuel lines along with LP replaced, the fuel sending sock and checked and solenoid on top of the pump is brand new. I have not put in a different resistor so its defaulted to #5. Could the plastic turbo power cover be trapping too much heat? Truck dosnt get over 190degrees, so I'm stumped all this work besides the fuel lines and IP were done last October and the rest about a month ago please help I'm lost on this truck is beautiful black 3500 dually that just hit 100k mi truck dosnt smoke starts up beautifully except after stall I turn the engine over after stall and dosnt start, 2nd time you turnit over boom its running again for a few min if its been running for 20-30 min prior to stall.... Any thoughts?


Hello Matt - welcome aboard!

No, the plastic cover won't cause the problems you're seeing (especially at this time of year), although taking it off won't hurt anything, either.

Can you re-clarify that last sentence? It's a bit hard to understand.

Does the Check Engine Light come on? Do you get any codes?

mattcr19
12-21-2012, 08:39
No check engine light the last sentence forget about I will clarify more in depth; so the other morning I started my truck up (been about a week since last started) starts right up so I let it idle for ten minutes to warmup drove good then after about maybe 4 mi i could feel a slight chug in it as if its not getting enough fuel or misfire at this point I pulled in a gas station to get diesel, oil and diesel injector cleaner next 4 miles it started chugging if I got on the throttle to get up slight hills at this point is when it stalled, I pull over to see what's the deal, 5minutes later I go to turn it over, wont start 2nd time it starts up so I pull back out onto the road barley any power I'm doing about 40mph I had 3mi to go to get to the job these symptons got worse as I tried to get to the job needless to say the truck git towed home. it did the same thing to me the other day but I had driven like 15 mi before it acted up and was able to make it home after pulling over a few times to restart and it would get surges if power like it wanted to take off. The second time (the 10mi job where i stoped at the gas station) it did not have a surge of power like before just barely running. Hope I didn't confuse you too much as I'm on my phone with broken screen, big pain in the ass. Thanks for the response.

DennisG01
12-21-2012, 09:19
A few more periods to break up your sentences/thoughts would help, but I think I get it... Surging, stalling, and no rhyme or reason to why?

There's guys (and gals) on this board much more knowledgeable than me, and I'm sure they'll chime in. In the meantime, a couple thoughts that come to mind...

-- Possibly air in the system
-- Weak/inop lift pump
-- Dirty/clogged filter

The filter is easy to check. If it looks at all nasty, replace it anyways.

When you first turn the key to "wait to start", can you hear the lift pump purring? You should be able to if you listen closely. There's another easy test for the lift pump, but you need the engine running for that.

Take a look under the truck and follow the fuel line (for this problem, don't worry about the return line) - see if you see any spots where air might get in. Before the lift pump, you may not see any signs of leaking diesel, but it could be a point where air is being sucked in. Also check the fuel lines in the engine bay and take a good look at/around the injectors.

These may not be your problem, but it's easy enough to check and would at least be the stuff I would start with myself.

mattcr19
12-21-2012, 09:39
Thanks, yea I did it in a haste and broken phone, I know its gotta be something silly I think my LP is actually quite loud compared to my old one. This is my work truck I'm almost useless without it, so if anyone needs me to clear anything up I will do so on my pc when I get home

phantom309
12-21-2012, 20:23
make sure you have a decent extension harness for your pmd,.

Nick

racer55
12-26-2012, 22:42
Be sure the IP harness ground is securely fastened to the top of the IP.

Replace the IP fuel return line with clear diesel rated line and watch at idle for bubbles,they indicate air intrusion usually pre LP.
The O rings on the fuel lines at the LP are often forgotten or neglected.

Ignition switches fail on the main circuit but can work fine on all others.

Sending unit socks can plug or collapse causing starvation.

Fuel filler caps can get plugged vents that also cause starvation.

PMD's fail even when relocated.
Heat transfer paste/pad is a must between the PMD and heatsink.

Some trucks will not run properly without a PMD resistor installed-the default value is not clear,nor is it clear which ECM's have the ability to select a default value.