6.5 trying to start but wont

[Diesel 4 blood]

I just bought a 94 6.5td it cranks and tries to start smokes I'm at a loss on this 1 I've fixed battery cables going to replace oil sending unit the only other thing I can think of is the coolant level sencer I'm open to advice

[Endoftheline465TD]

hey blood,

I feel your pain, I've had my '94 K3500 6.5TD since new and after 237Kmi, it's really getting my attention. The checklist below was given to me on my thread. I've pasted it below, it might help working your way thru it and give your some ideas along the way. You've come to the right place, lots of nice knowlegable folks on this site. good luck! bob

The Diagnostic Checklist:
Please fill out to best of your knowledge.

1. Describe the problem you are having in detail:

2. Year of truck/engine.
3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers).
4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......).
5. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD.
6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit)
7. Air Filter condition (visual check).
8. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed, mileage since changed).
9. Location of PMD/FSD? (ex. on pump/remote over intake, behind bumper).
9a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from which vendor).
9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire.
10. Outside Temperature (C or F). _____ °

11. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent
11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No
12.Have you scanned for engine codes? Yes/No
12a. List exact results on engine codes.

13. Condition of Battery terminals (removed, cleaned and tightened).
14. Known condition and age of Batteries.
14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age?
15. Condition of Major Grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened)

16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"?
16a. Does engine start and run?
17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line: do you have fuel? Yes/No
18. Does your Wait To Start light come on?
18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit.
19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer).

20. Are you experiencing Stalling?
20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...)
20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments?
21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions.
22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now?
23. Lift pump test - Describe results.

24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/No
25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/No
26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? Yes/No
27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? (only try for starting problems).
28. Are all glow plugs in proper working order?

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/No
30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?
31. Turbo check out - Pass/Fail
32. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-Diesel, #2 Diesel, SVO/WVO, other
32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged system).
33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list.
34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? Yes/No
35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having?
36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better.

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

If it's smoking, it's getting fuel. Smokey starts (or attempts) usually mean the glow plugs are bad, or not getting power. If the "Wait to Start" lamp is coming on, there will be power to the plugs (power source to the lamp is from the GP lead circuit). Checking glow plugs is simple. Use a test lamp, ohm meter, or continuity tester. Usually, if they short to ground (very low resistance), they are good. Pull the connector at each plug and test the spade, with your ground clamp/probe to engine/chassis/battery ground. If any are open, they are definitely bad. A closed circuit indicates they are good, with near certainty (on a rare occasion, one will show continuity, but still not heat). You can also pull the plugs and apply 12V to them (ground to the body, + to the spade). If they get hot and glow (hence the name), they're good. If not, they're bad.

The coolant temp sender (not the level sender) can inhibit glow plug operation. Disconnect it, and the PCM will "assume" it's -40°, and provide the longest glow cycle. The 94 model will have one or two senders (don't remember), first in the coolant crossover and perhaps one in the head, so disconnect both for testing this.

If the WTS lamp isn't lighting, verify the GP controller/relay is getting ignition power (small lug), and constant batt + power to one large lug.

[Diesel 4 blood]

Glow plugs work and the block heater works heat gun said 80 degrees new fuel filter 2 good battery's all new cables new pump relay new oil sending unit running died fuel it starts and runs for about 20 seconds then dies only sum lines are getting fuel pm's is mounted to intake with a non home made harness bought truck as is it has ben sitting for 4 years fuel is new I am a cummins guy never had a Chevy diesel other than my 67 2 1/2 ton with a 472 Detroit so I am a little lost because I have never had a ve44 pump to some lines and not others

[Diesel 4 blood]

Worked on it a little today nothing has changed the next question I had is. Is the lp on these 6.5s supposed to turn on when you first turn the ignition on like my 24v does and does any body know what the relays behind the jockey box run

[Diesel 4 blood]

Well I was reading other threads and found one that was talking about air locking like mine is doing so I checked the sock in the tank then the screen in the pump they where clean ( about this time going to take the 375 Winchester to it) then just because I was there I pulled the fuel solenoid and I think I have this 1 nailed the solenoid doesn't move at all with the key and I can't move it by hand so now buy 1 of those and see what happens

[a5150nut]

Did you confirm voltage with key going to soliniod?

[Diesel 4 blood]

Ya checked have voltage pulled solenoid has a lot of carosion coming out of bottom cap of solenoid

[Diesel 4 blood]

Loosened fuel solenoid screwed out by hand and the thing started then tightened it back down by hand and killed it now just need a new solenoid

[Diesel 4 blood]

Just put the fuel solenoid in started she definitely needs new glow plugs they are a little weak and where does the the tack get its signal from it stopped working after it ran for about 10min

[DmaxMaverick]

Your tach signal is driven by the alternator. If you have no tach, it could be at either end, or anywhere in the middle. If it worked, then didn't with no other intervention, the most likely suspect is the alternator. If/when you replace it, be sure to install the correct size pulley, or the tach will be off.

[Vin82k3500]

how are the glow plugs first thing I would check aside form fuel and the fuel filter of course I got an older setup the engine itself dont need much to run fuel compression and some pre heat aka glow plug when shes cold if its got compression fuel correct time and pressure also but part of fuel and some pre heat aka glow plugs when cold it will run oh yeah ad cold start advance is helpful I dont think I will buy a gasser again the 6.2/6/5 in mechanichal form has won my heart

[DieselDobro]

I'm lost, can you please improve the punctuation so we can understand what you are talking about?
No offense, I am having a similar problem and am trying to decipher the details of what you are trying. What is a fuel solenoid?

[Diesel 4 blood]

Sitting in the truck the fuel shut off solenoid is on the front left corner of the injection pump it looks like a role of quarters with two wires out the top it shuts the fuel off when you turn the key off and on when you turn the key to the on position

[BorJansson]

Fuel Solenoid will shut off due to no oilpress or faulty oil pressure switch.

.............................
BorJansson

[Diesel 4 blood]

Ya I know that oil sending unit was the first thing I replaced then worked from there when I got to the solenoid I pulled it out and tested on the bench with a battery and found that it was unserviceable and replaced it the IP service shop said the new style solenoid with the 1/2" bolt head on top have problems with the wires breaking internally in like the old ones with the Allen socket on top