Water pump replacement Mech. in Austin to San Antonio

[hogbody]

It looks like my 2003 needs a water pump. Local dealer in San Marcos, TX wants $828 for 8 hrs labor plus $315 for a pump plus a thermostat. I figure a coolant replacement a new hoses also.

I found a pump from GM PARTS DIRECT for 160.00

Anyone know of a good (reasonable) independent mechanic around San Marcos or between Austin and San Antonio, TX

Thanks and Merry Christmas

[hogbody]

Guess no one has any suggestions. Will be buying a pump through GM direct and have the dealer put it on. Talked to my mechanic who works on none diesel vehicles. He won't work on it so........................

[rapidoxidationman]

It isn't that tough of a job, but you do need the tools to remove the fan pulley and the crank pulley. Other than that, it is just turning a wrench on accessories.
It took me about 6 hour last time, and that was having the experience of doing it one time before, about 6 months previous. I'm betting your dealer can do it considerably faster.

Will the dealer stand behind a part that YOU supply if it goes bad (and they can, my GM pump spun loose on the shaft after only 6 months)? Ask the service desk to make sure you're not stepping on your own toes here, even though you're using a GM pump.

If you're going to have the dealer do it, let the dealer do it all the way. Maybe beat him down a little bit on the time it takes, but the book time for the job IS 8 hours according to AllData...

Edit: Both thermostats? There's a front and a rear, they are specific, and cost around $50 EACH.

[hogbody]

The pump will be the "genuine" gm pump from gm parts direct. The pump has a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty from gm. The dealer will warranty the labor. He indicated that if it was a gm pump that I supplied they might warranty it. I will confirm that.

I use the truck for traveling pulling my trailer for 6 months a year. I won't be around this gm dealer for much of the year.

I am hesitant to try the job myself due to several reasons......

Bottom line is I have to pay the piper.

I was hoping to find a good independent mechanic through the list. I've called a couple of shops and the quotes are within a $100. of the dealers labor rate......

[rapidoxidationman]

I'd be impressed if the dealer sucked up the labor on replacing a defective pump that they didn't supply, even if it is a GM pump.

Peace of mind is what getting everything from the dealer will buy you...

My 2c:D

[GM Customer Service]

Guess no one has any suggestions. Will be buying a pump through GM direct and have the dealer put it on. Talked to my mechanic who works on none diesel vehicles. He won't work on it so........................

Please let us know how the service appointment goes. We are here if you have any questions!

Brandon
GM Customer Service

[hogbody]

Thanks Brandon.....will get it done next month as I am saving some $$ up.

[tx dave]

I had Chuck Nash change mine once before, no problems but I talked them down to $600. Peace of mind if a dealer does that one. Had a friend tackle the first one an it took 2 days and he swore he'd never do another. Chuck Nash is fast. In in the morning and out by 2 oclock as I remember. You might give Lesters a call, they use to have a pretty good DM.

[hogbody]

Thanks for the reply.....I will check out Lesters. I will have Nash do this one as soon as I save some coin. With the help of GM Cust. Service Nash treated me well on an injectors replacment.

[More Power]

Not to harsh your mellow, but these pump seals should last for a long-long time. It seems many of these water pumps need to be replaced because of an overpressure problem in the cooling system - due to a bad head gasket or LB7 cup seal. Be sure to eliminate that possibility before the pump replacement. If the original water pump seal was affected by excessive cooling system pressure, a new pump won't last long.

Let us know how it goes....

Jim

[hogbody]

Thanks Jim....I will look into that also when I have it diagnosed. Are there any other things I can check on my own to assess for those issues?

[hogbody]

I ran my truck up to operating temp. and my upper radiator hose never got "rock" hard. I could sqeeze it and the level in the overflow tank would change. I bled the pressure off the over flow tank and I could see no bubbles in the tank. I will take it for a run next week to pickup a tractor and see what it does when I get back. There was a little leakage from the water pump but it was only a few drips.

AARGH!

[More Power]

The coolant surge tank cap is designed to vent at approx 15-psi (or at least it says so on the cap). A problem with head gaskets or cups that results in excessive cooling system pressure will cause the pressure to ride up against the cap vent (15-psi) when the truck is worked.

A normal healthy cooling system will run at approximately 8 to 10-psi when the engine is at operating temperature.

So.... measuring the pressure will give you a pretty good idea what's going on. Hope for the best... :)

[hogbody]

Does the dealer have a tool to measure the pressure or is their some suggestion on how to tell the expansion in the tank is due to pressure from exhaust vs. fluid expansion from heat on my own? As it was running today I could hear pressure relief from the cap on the tank......but still no hard hose or bubbles. I will run it hard in the next few days and see where we are at. Possibly pressure relief is through the wather pump leak???

I had the injector done about 10,000 miles ago so if there is a problem it could be a injector cup. I have a 12 month 12,000 month warranty on the repair. How would I insure that the dealer diagnoses it correctly. They fixing and injector cup leak vs. me dropping big $$$ for a head gasket repair.

[rapidoxidationman]

combustion gasses in the cooling system will make pressure that doesn't go away when the engine cools down vs pressure increase from thermal expansion which WILL go away when the engine cools down.

Are you having to add coolant on an increasingly regular basis?

[hogbody]

I recently did about a 500 mile drive and when I got home I had to add about a quart in the tank. The water pump was leaking at this time and I assumed as replacing fluid due to the waterpump leak...........................

[rosyjoe]

Help! I have everything off to replace the pater pump but I can't get the thermostat pipe out of the way so I can get the pump out. Now the pump is hanging out and I still can't get the pipe out of the way. I want to replace the bypas hose too while i'm there. :mad:

[DmaxMaverick]

Help! I have everything off to replace the pater pump but I can't get the thermostat pipe out of the way so I can get the pump out. Now the pump is hanging out and I still can't get the pipe out of the way. I want to replace the bypas hose too while i'm there. :mad:

Remove the upper thermostat housing. The pipe goes with it. Be careful to not bend anything. The pipes are thin, and sealed with O-rings (good time to replace those, too). If the pipe is damaged, it's nearly impossible to seal. If it's a high-miler, also consider replacing the thermostats.

Also, check behind the fan pulley for the turbo coolant return line. If it hasn't been replaced, it's probably due. Look for signs of leakage, and cracks around the hose at the pipe-bell area (swelled area). If there are any cracks, it will leak, if it isn't already.