View Full Version : Three Questions
Truck has been running like a top for four years after dealer warrenty pump,fsd work. Truck gave me a code 35 about month ago, cleared the codes and now stalling once every two weeks or so under random condtions. Ruled out fuel, fuel filter battery connection so far. It's been serviced on a regular basis. I've been reading as much as I can from other members as well as Jim's Stalling from the site so I would like to rule out the ops and the lift pump before the FSD.
How do I test the ops for proper voltage?
How do I test the lift pump for pressure/voltage?
And if it is the FSD is just as easy as taking the intake off.
Bouns question; If these fsd's go every 3-4 years it would be beneficial to remote mount; is there some info on the site I can go to. Anybody got ideas?
Just another thing has anybody been in a accident because of the stall condtion? My wife was driving the truck and it stalled at 45mph slowing to a light at least she had the presence of mind not to slam it into reverse or something like that to restart.
Sounds like FSD. Kennedy diesel has modules and coolers in stock. Great guy to have in your corner.
The plug can be removed off the stock module, on the injector pump, with a little patience and is certainly easier than removing the intake manifold.
Kennedy has a long harness extention that allows for remote mounting of module off engine. They have a diagram for mounting to existing bracket on drivers side fenderwell without drilling any holes. Good luck.
Barry Nave
09-29-2005, 01:03
If opening the fuel water blead vavle does not stall eng. then ruel out lift pump,as long as the filter is good.
I'll 2nd the FSD/PMD
FSD on Beta cooler,mounted in a cooler area as showen in JK web site under Tech Tips would be the way to go.
My self,I'll stay with the SOL-D ;)
Brave95 , how do you like the Sol'd ?
How any miles??? I see a real differance in starting, not much otherwise , maybe a little smoother at low RPM under boost...
Barry Nave
09-30-2005, 02:46
Starting is also great :D
Running mode seems to be the same with FSD.
SOL-D even on intake runs cooler then the intake mounted FSD.
SOL-D temps are the same as under hood temps in most cases.
9,243 miles to date.
Best part it solved the code 35 issue
Please explain code 35 issue, I have 96 and
have different codes...
I was wondering if the faster pulse may extend the life of older pumps, ie: sitcky/slow fuel solenoid?
So I can replace the FSD WITHOUT removing the intake? Just take off the mounting screws?
Andy Chesek
09-30-2005, 08:52
TIM,
The FSD on the injection pump can't be removed without pulling the intake. The trick is disconnecting the harness from the FSD, which can be done without pulling the intake, then hooking up a harness extension and running the extension to a new remote mounted FSD.
Kinda like killing two birds with one stone. You've essentially replaced the faulty FSD, and the new one will be in an easily accessible area so replacing that will be a snap if/when it, too, fails.
DmaxMaverick
09-30-2005, 09:03
Originally posted by TTM:
So I can replace the FSD WITHOUT removing the intake? Just take off the mounting screws? If your current PMD is functioning, even intermitent, it is better to leave it in place. Install the new FSD in another [better] location, preferably with a cooling device of some sort. With this, you can always connect to your existing PMD if you have issues with the new FSD.
The PMD can be simply removed (relatively simple) using a custom tool. If you have the torx bit, weld it to a tool handle that will allow clearance and access. If you have the components (bit and metal handle), any welding shop will do the job for a few bucks. A short torx bit and end wrench may work. Much of it depends on your ability to handle tools and obsticles.
Thanks guys, it stalled again this morning but fired back up ( just stick it in neutral and restart on the fly) I'll try to get new one in the week or so.
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-03-2005, 06:35
Just so you know, the dealer here wants almost $600 CDN for a new FSD.
Much cheaper on eBay and there are some for sale out of Canada. I'd just avoid a used one.
I put a cooler on the intake and plan to move it before Spring (not too worried about high temps for a while) but if I were to do it again, I'd get the Sol-D. It is pretty easy to use the old connector to connect to one on a cooler on the manifold.
But check your fule pressure first. What your describing may still be the lift pump/ops.
Good idea, should rule out those first.. So how do I test the fuel presure and the ops sensor?
Good idea, been struggling with the fsd just failing like that. Should rule out those others first.. So how do I test the fuel presure and the ops sensor?
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-03-2005, 10:41
If you don't have a fuel pressure guage, then you are just checking for fuel out of the bleed line.
With the truck idling, open the bleed line (should be attached to the thermostat housing) and see if fuel comes out the hose. If fuel comes out, your OPS and lift pump are fine. If fuel does not come out and if the truck stumbles/dies, (truck is sucking air at this point) then one of the OPS or lift pump are not working.
The lift pump is on the frame rail under the drivers seat (outside of the truck) and is just an electric fuel pump. You can feel it when it is running. Disconnect the electrical connector and, with the truck running, check for voltage at the connector. If you have power, but the pump won't run, replace the pump. If there is no power then replace the OPS. Someone else will have to describe that as I had mine done on holidays at a dealer (Williams Lake). Both my pump and OPS were problems.
Oh, if you have a fuel pressure guage, attach it to the end of the fuel bleed hose. You can see if you have pressure there and your truck won't stall out with the guage in place.
These things do run without the lift pump working, they just lose power and can stall. Mush the same symptoms as FSD problems.
Right on thanks Tacklewasher, It has been stumbling(like hitting a sppedbump) off and on up a local hill (Dragon Lake Hill) ever since I got warrenty work done on the pump. I'll do these tests after work. Come to think of it I haven't been hearing that humm of the lift pump after shut off the truck. Keep you posted.
Originally posted by DmaxMaverick:
If your current PMD is functioning, even intermitent, it is better to leave it in place. Install the new FSD in another [better] location, preferably with a cooling device of some sort. With this, you can always connect to your existing PMD if you have issues with the new FSD. This was the idea I had, but all I can say is "Don't go out in the winter without survival gear thinking your old FSD will get you home." It's darn near impossible to get the connector back on the old FSD. Easier if you pull the top of the intake manifold off, but still tough. I'm pretty sure that in the process I bent one of the FSD pins over, judging from the difficulty I had getting the plug to seat fully, and the fact that it wouldn't run...
So....unhooked the connector at the lift pump and with the truck running got 12.5 volts; open the bleed valve (the one with the hose) and got a good stream of fuel.... Gotta be the FSD....Couple of questions (just to be on the right track and ace58's comments)
If I bought the harness connection from Kennedy Diesel ( or does anybody have any local places BC Canada) and the FSD from my dealer then could I Just remove the plug off the FDS on the pump now, plug in to the new harness and new FSD to the connector on the truck and mount the new fsd on the firewall or wheelwell.
Can I just leave the old FSD on the pump with it disconnected. Or would it be easer to remove the intake and then complete the above. Thanks for you guys patience.
MTTwister
10-04-2005, 13:50
TTM - a dead-flat mounting surface is critical for the Heat Transfer - you can't just screw it to the wheel well, if I'm reading you right.
The extension harness plugs right in - I would recommned a 6' harness, and a "cooler" of some sort - Kennedy vs Heath ( I went Heath) and mount the sucker out of the Engine bay.
Remember to get swap out the resistor - or get one with the replacement FSD.
I left mine in place on the pump - didn't want to disassemble all htat. I tired to make a tool to get in there, but not much success getting the in-place PMD off. And I agree - no way you're gonna get that re-hooked up in an emergency. Check E-Bay for replacement FSD's - sometimes...
( And how come someone hasn't worked up the resistor values, and make a switchable setup. hmmm, probably not worth the effort, that's why)..
I would think you could get a better deal by buying the harness, cooler(heatsink), and FSD as a package deal. Kennedy offers this as I would think the other DP advertisers do to.
Check the advertisers section, I think there may be some in your area.
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-04-2005, 17:21
BD Power in Abbotsford sells a heat sink. I got it from them (through a local Kelowna store) and it came with a resistor.
I don't think this is the best solution but it will do through the winter (heat ain't gonna be a problem for you and I for a while).
Leave the FSD in place and get a new one.
If I were to do it again, I'd seriously think of a Sol-D. From reading here, it sounds like the best long-term solution.
Short of that I'd go with either the Heath or Kennedy kit that moves the thing out of the engine bay. I'll be buying an extension for mine in the spring to get it off the manifold.
And I'm trolling ebay to get a spare FSD for the glove box before I need one.
Barry Nave
10-05-2005, 02:35
I also think highly of the SOL-D.
As in a FSD,cooler&harness set up, that will set you back more than the cost of the SOL-D.
Really,there have been no isssue with the SOL-D mounted on the intake. I've have through the summer checked the temps. on this unit using a inferray gun. Highest temps I've see to date was 213* SOL-D, 205 intake, water T housing 190.
The SOL-D seem to be in temps what ever the under hood temps are with normal running.
Hi TTM,
Try Gord at NW Fuel Injection at Surrey, Vancouver for any fuel injection parts and advice.
He's a good guy to deal with, just tell him Scottish Jim recommended him.
You'll get him at gord@nwfuel.ca
By the way have you checked that ALL connectors and battery connections are clean and making good contact? Also watch out for broken or loose wires.
Good luck
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
The FSD Cooler from Kennedy looks good and a easy install, have to do more reading on the SOL-D. You guys have been great with all you help; but I don't have much time to work on the truck right now (need it for big hunting trip)Will take to the dealer and just get them to R+R the FSD. I will keep the old FSD and go the ethier one of those routes in the spring. If these FSD's have caused so many headaches to 6.5 owners over the years why hasn't chev done a recall or figured this remote mounting on there own? Is this kinda thing just 6.5 regular maintaince?
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-06-2005, 10:54
The dealer will charge and arm and a leg for this.
Just so you are aware. My best quote from a dealer on the FSD was ~$550 Cdn. Part only.
Sol'D is the easiest install (MHO), and it's Canadian,
Kennedy and Heath are very realiable Vendors.
But the install reguires 'slightly' more work to
install. ( remote mount out of the engine bay ).
Just called the dealer $1000 part and labor. Holly.....no way... you guys convinced me. If I'm going to do it right...Where can I get some information on the SOL-D?
BTW While I'm rounding up parts I have to drive this thing for work... am I doing any damage driving this thing and having it stall?
Barry Nave
10-07-2005, 01:37
It may quit all together :eek:
www.remarqtech.com (http://www.remarqtech.com)
Takes very little time.
Chris will ship ASSP. Got mine in 3-4 days.
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-07-2005, 05:49
Good man.
Now be ready to write up your conclusions as well.
Last I checked it was $618 CDN plus tax but no duty as it comes from Ont. Install should be around 1 hour depending on how it goes disconnecting the old PMD. You need a couple long, thin screwdrivers and a bent coat hanger to fish it out. There is a writeup somewhere here on it. Probably to do with adding a Kennedy or Heat remote kit.
Took some time on the site here to read the posts on the SOL-D and visited the site feel pretty good about the product. Will place the order today and will keep you guys posted.
Tried to take the connector off last night....it looks like there is not much wire to pull though to reconnect...will try again tonight. Thanks again for your guys comments it really helps.
Originally posted by TTM:
Tried to take the connector off last night....it looks like there is not much wire to pull though to reconnect...will try again tonight. Do NOT take it off until you have something to replace it with because it is very unlikely you'll be able to get it back on again!
So wait untill I get the SOL-D? Ordered the SOL-D today they said they were a week to week and a half behind in shipping. Anything I can do in the meantime? The local dealer said I could use a FSD in the meantime.
Barry Nave
10-08-2005, 00:41
If dealer will let you use another PMD then it does not take long to remove the intake manfold and change. Thats what I would do and hope the PMD that is given to you works. If dealer wants it back then that some extra work :rolleyes:
My first driver got to the point of stalling that I thought I would never get it home :eek:
Had to let cool many times to get restarted :rolleyes:
Have you heard of a trick that has worked on some FSD where you tighten the Transistor,Two of them with in the FSD,bottom side under black caps? Back screws out a turn and retorque.
Much eazer with a remote cooler to see if this works.
The SOL-D must be becoming a hot product and order are up. I know Chris has a lot of these running overseas and around the world.
His supply must be low if it is going to take that long.
Just going to sit tight and not wander to far from my garage...still runs ok but....Going to use the time to invent a tool to remove the FSD from the pump.....
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-20-2005, 05:14
Have you got the unit yet? I'm curious how it seems to work.
No not yet!..going to contact somebody today at RemarQ...They did say that they were back ordered a week...but...haven't disconnected the fsd yet had to take he truck out to get some firewood the other day didn't stall, but you could feel the power was down.
Got ahold of Remar-Q ( Chris) (actually they got ahold of me) yesterday and they seem to be having some supplier problems... I looks like the end of the month for me....so it will be three weeks at the end of the month since I placed the order. I would suggest placing your orders in advance....Since the weather has cooled a bit still use the truck once a week just for local trips; it doesn't stall but there is a power loss for sure..Hope the wait is worth it....
Originally posted by TTM:
... it doesn't stall but there is a power loss for sure..Hope the wait is worth it.... Don't get your expectations up to high. I doubt if your power loss is related to the FSD. Usually they either work or they don't.
Hi JohnC, you might be right, I've done my best to eliminate all other things. It keeps on coming back to the fsd. The power loss- I shouldn't really say because it didn't really do anything different. It probably just me since I haven't drove it much lately.
Low_Bridge
10-23-2005, 16:54
Originally posted by DmaxMaverick:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by TTM:
[b] So I can replace the FSD WITHOUT removing the intake? Just take off the mounting screws? If your current PMD is functioning, even intermitent, it is better to leave it in place. Install the new FSD in another location, preferably with a cooling device of some sort. With this, you can always connect to your existing PMD if you have issues with the new FSD.
The PMD can be simply removed (relatively simple) using a custom tool. If you have the torx bit, weld it to a tool handle that will allow clearance and access. If you have the components (bit and metal handle), any welding shop will do the job for a few bucks. A short torx bit and end wrench may work. Much of it depends on your ability to handle tools and obsticles. </font>[/QUOTE]No intake removal required :D / I have welder & torches, but I just used the "McGiver" approach"
http://PArtsNews.com/FSD_PMD_Tool.jpg
Hi TTM,
If you need a Sol-D unit in a hurry I have an extra one sitting here.
It is brand new and still in its wrapper and all warranty paperwork is with it.
Unfortunately I would have to include the extra costs of shipping and import duty into the UK to get it here to Scotland.
Let me know if you are interested and I will work out what it cost me. My email address is jim@jimmyt.plus.com
I can have it over in about 5-7 days with UPS if you wanted.
I can organise with Chris that warranty starts when you install it.
Best regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
Hi twaddle, I have to wait and see, they told me this week so I can hang on for a few more days, Thanks for the offer...
Hey Bill D'Addio, that's what I thought it would look like, going to make a tool up this week,( or try to) not much room 1/8th...has anybody thought about making tool up and marketing?
adamcortell
10-26-2005, 19:50
TTM,
I recently went through a similar sounding series of hesitating and stumbling. My truck would start fine and run fine until fully warmed up. On every occasion it acted up, it was after restarting warm. It would hesitate and stumble and then stall if I really gave it some pedal. If I just feathered the accelerator along I could get home. It did one time surge and idle erratically when I put it in reverse after a warm restart.
I could hear my lift pump humming for a few seconds when I shut off the engine. I got 7 lbs of fuel pressure at the T-valve on idle. I was going to run with my gauge taped to the windshield, but my connection was leaking diesel so bad I thought better of it.
I thought it must be the PMD! I had some hot runs last summer and I figured maybe I had cooked it as it was still on the IP, maybe original for all I know.
Still under warranty (109k) so I took it to the dealership and they put a new PMD/FSD on a heat sink I had already bought. Problem solved???
No, same hesitation. I thought maybe it is the OPS working when engine is cool and failing when engine is hot?? I then did two things (wanted the damn thing fixed!!!) I replaced the OPS and cleaned up connections and grounds at the back of engine. No problems now!! I actually was able to tow my trailer over to the the coast! I believe it was the OPS, but I can't be positive because I threw a couple other variables in at the same time. It may be that my PMD was beginning to fail at the same tiime.
I now have FSD mounted on bumper and a massive 24"x12"x4" (31.5 end to end) intercooler in the mail. Yes, another project!
Replace that OPS and check connections (its cheap)
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-27-2005, 05:34
Originally posted by atom_c:
Replace that OPS and check connections (its cheap) He's got good fuel flow out of the t valve and can hear the pump running at idle.
It's buried in the middle of the first page where he checked this.
adamcortell
10-27-2005, 14:46
Tacklewasher,
I saw that he had fuel flow at idle. I did too, but I was still getting hesitation and stumbling after the truck was completely warmed up and had restarted (before and after new FSD). Maybe my OPS was working when engine was cold and failing when hot. Arveetec recently reported a similar situation on another thread. Anyone else experience an intermittantly functioning OPS?? Is it even possible?
windycreek
10-29-2005, 08:59
Tacklewasher,
I saw that he had fuel flow at idle. I did too, but I was still getting hesitation and stumbling after the truck was completely warmed up and had restarted (before and after new FSD). Maybe my OPS was working when engine was cold and failing when hot. Arveetec recently reported a similar situation on another thread. Anyone else experience an intermittantly functioning OPS?? Is it even possible?
I had the same issues, Replaced the OPS cheapest fix first, all is ok now. I think this switch to the lift pump can be intermittent. If it is malfunctioning who knows at what preassure it will cut out? Oil warms up/ preassure drops. Seems like a reasonable conclusion that this can cause intermiitent operation of the lift pump.
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-30-2005, 05:27
Originally posted by atom_c:
Tacklewasher,
I saw that he had fuel flow at idle. I did too, but I was still getting hesitation and stumbling after the truck was completely warmed up and had restarted (before and after new FSD). Maybe my OPS was working when engine was cold and failing when hot. Arveetec recently reported a similar situation on another thread. Anyone else experience an intermittantly functioning OPS?? Is it even possible? Okay. I haven't seen them intermittent. Mine died completely (and then the repalcement came unlugged). I thought the testing he did ruled it out.
My truck has the opposite problem of heat and stall. It only stalls when it is cold. I was writing to everyone back in March and April and almost bought a Sol-D, but lo and behold, the truck was healed when the outside temps were higher. It has not so much as coughed since then, until this past week when our local temps dropped into the 40s for the first time. Now, on short trips from the house it might stall 2 or 3 times. Once it gets good and hot it does not stall at all. Same problem as last year. PMD? :confused: I am just not sure. I know the lift pump is working fine. What else could it be? Could there be a fuel line fitting somewhere letting in a bubble of air when it is cold?
Just an update, Sol-D was sent today so I will have it tomorrow, in my downtime I made up a tool for the removal of the old fsd. It works!!!....haven't removed it though yet. Will keep you guys updated.
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
10-31-2005, 12:08
Originally posted by TTM:
Just an update, Sol-D was sent today so I will have it tomorrow, in my downtime I made up a tool for the removal of the old fsd. It works!!!....haven't removed it though yet. Will keep you guys updated. You know you don't have to remove the old PSD, right? Just unplug it and leave it where it is on the side of the pump. Plug the Sol-D in and you're good to go.
The trick is in unplugging the PMD, but it can be done (and I have done it) without removing it.
Well got my Sol-D yesterday after three weeks wait and put it in tonight....Fired the truck up and put in the garage for installation. So far so good. I read the install directions twice and took my time disconnecting the old fsd, the connector came off with just a little push from a screwdriver I mounted the Sol-D and connected... guess what. The truck just turned over and that's it didn't fire at all. The truck was running when I diconnected the connector from the old fsd. What did I do wrong..??? Pretty fustrating...Can't reconnect the fsd back up and took the extra one back to the dealer....arrrrr....Did I get a lemon SOL-D? I will call Chris in the morning I guess...
Contact Chris at Sol-D, he will probably tell you that there is a voltage or connection fault somewhere else in the system. It may be a battery or alternator fault.
The spare Sol-D unit that I have was installed onto a friends truck and we found that it wouldn't fire up. Fitted it to my suburban and it fired up no problem. I fitted a spare used Stanadyne FSD to my friends truck and it fired up right away and has been ok for over 6 months now.
It did concern me that there are the trucks out there that won't run with the Sol-D but they will run with the Stanadyne unit.
Some other DP members have experienced the same problems.
Regards
Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland
I got my new Sol-D two nights ago and my truck fired right up. I was hoping it might make my IP codes go away but it didn't - that'll be another thread...
Kevin
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
11-04-2005, 05:47
It is possible to re-connect the FSD. I've done it. It takes patience but you probably had run out of that when the Sol-D didn't work (I know I would have).
Keep us posted please.
Well..talked to Chris at Remark-Q and he basically said that the SOL-D runs on 9 volts and the fsd can run as low as 4 volts. He said that the product had to be made to a higher standards and because of the improvements that's why the voltage is higher. He said check all your connections and voltage. So I did. I checked all the connections then the batteries. The batteries were old, one on the left (facing the truck) was 5yrs and the other was 7yrs and from the history of the truck (since it was locally serviced) it needed a charge 5yrs ago when the other was replaced. I went out and bought two new batteries 875cca 1250ca 120 min rc. Put them in and it FIRED! It was the batteries. Took it out for a run around town got the temp up to operational range and... all good no codes runs smooth. So now what? I might just remove the old fsd and use it for back up. Then record mileage, code setting, power etc with the SOL-D in place and, answer any questions you guys have.
Chris at Remar-Q was prompt on getting back to my intitial SOS call and he was good at explaining the SOL-D's workings in laymans terms. He provided me with some trouble shooting tips and invited me to call at anytime regarding anything. Good customer relations I thought. He said at anytime that I felt the Sol-D was not to my liking that I could return at anytime.
Hopefully I'm out of the woods on this one, (allot of stress last couple of weeks) thanks all of you for your comments and tips I couldn't have done it without the DP members. I owe you guys a beer.
JohnC could you keep this string open just for comments etc....
Hi TTM,
I have to agree with you on the Customer care and backup from Chris at Sol-D, when I bought the Sol-d FSD back in April Chris took the trouble to phone me to discuss what could be causing the no start on my friends truck. Not bad considering that he is in Canada and I am in Scotland, UK.
And it wasn't just the once that he phoned.
Definately 10 out of 10.
So far six months later I have had no problems with the Sol-D unit.
Regards
Jim
Biggar, Scotland.
Barry Nave
11-05-2005, 02:00
I got my new Sol-D two nights ago and my truck fired right up. I was hoping it might make my IP codes go away but it didn't - that'll be another thread...
Kevin
What code-codes are you seeing?
I have been living with a code 35 for over a year now. When SOL-D was installed the code 35 was gone for awhile,six months. SES light comes and goes. Light never stays on.
Searching code 35, this has a good check list on what to do and check for. Did not help in my case. I could have the pump worked on, changing the solanoid insteed of replacing pump but dont know if this would help. Pump is close to 100K. :eek:
20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20
11-05-2005, 15:39
That's awesome. Really glad to hear it.
I'm leaning towards picking one up and selling my cooler/fsd on ebay so I was real interested in why it didn't fire.
Any reason to pull the old FSD off? I'd leave it right where it is as backup.
And I prefer Guiness. But you don't owe me anything.
Well 500km's and only one problem...I had left the truck sit for a couple of days but with no real cold weather over that time that it sat. When to start it and all it would do is crank. I thought what now. So what I did was unhooked the SOL-D and re hooked up an old fsd I got from the dealer and using my new spare key (I put the other set down and couldn't find them) the truck fired up. Okay so the trucks runs but what happened? So I re hooked up the SOL-D and using the new key it fired up and hasn't been a problem since. Now here is the thing, could my old worn out ignition key not provided enough voltage??? to prompt the PCM to provide the SOL-D with enough voltage to start? What do you guys think?
Anyway truck runs fine, haven't noticed any power difference from before still have to do some highway miles to get some fuel mileage numbers.
Did a test...Left the truck unplugged for 24 hours at outside temps of -2C to +5c then tried to start. Just cranked that's it didn't fire. Looks like it had nothing to do with the ignition. Have the truck plugged in now will try in couple of hours.
TTM if youre out there let us know whats up. I am going through the trouble shooting on a 98 that i do not have on the road yet and just going off what the last owner had told me. gonna do all the tests first then i will order a remote kit. Can anybody tell me if i can check the codes myself on a 98 model. Also there is lots of diesel soot under the hood? thanks in advance.
Kev-o
1998 3/4ton extcab 4x4
1987 blazer 6.2 4x4
Hey Kev, what tests have you done? Is the truck having the stall condtion? Like I was having? Lots of soot, sounds like a major exast leak?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.