What else should I do while it's out

[65-f100]

OK - decided to pull the 6.5 to do a bunch of maintenance. Rear main is leaking, valve covers leaking, oil pan leaking. Also going to replace the timing set. Basically planning on replacing every gasket and seal I can get to. All the fuel related parts have just been replaced (pump, injectors, glows, etc.).

Engine has a little over 300K. What else would you do while it's out?

Also thinking about installing a Racor fuel filter set-up while I have a new empty engine bay.

Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

[sctrailrider]

Depends on how much $$ you want to invest and how long you plan to keep it, if the truck is in good shape it would be a good time to do a over haul, rings,bearings, etc.... get it ready for another 300K.....

[racer55]

Injectors are maintenance items-overhaul/replace every 100,000 miles and it is also a good time to put some bosch duratherm glow plugs in.

Great opportunity to upgrade the oil cooler and lines to a leroy diesel or lubrication specialists kit.

[65-f100]

Well the injectors and glow plugs only have a couple of thousand on them so they're good to go. I've toyed with the overhaul idea too but it runs pretty good now. Not sure I want to spend the $. Any ideas what I'd be looking at to do rings, bearings, etc? Have done plenty of gas motors but not the diesels. This used to be a daily driver for my wife but is now our longer trip / camper puller vehicle.

I've replaced the oil cooler lines but not familiar with the upgrade. What are the details on that?

Thanks

[racer55]

The stock oil cooler lines are terrible for leaking at the crimps and disconnecting where they clip into the block fittings.


The appropriate kit here is a big upgrade:
http://leroydiesel.com/Engine_Lubrication.html

[twaddle]

Have you taken any cylinder compression readings before pulling anything apart?

[65-f100]

I'll check out those lines - thanks for the info.

Have not taken compression readings yet. What are normal ranges?

Thanks

[DmaxMaverick]

I'll check out those lines - thanks for the info.

Have not taken compression readings yet. What are normal ranges?

Thanks

Yes, a compression test. If it checks out, and you have good oil pressure (50+ PSI cold, 20+ PSI hot, idle), I wouldn't suggest messing with the rings, pistons or bearings.

The compression test must be done on the engine at or near operating temperature, all glow plugs removed, well charged batteries, 6 puffs per cylinder test. 350+ PSI on all cylinders (dry, NO oil), with no more than a 10% extreme spread, 2-5% ideal. Testing a cold engine is only helpful to diagnose specific issues, such as head gasket leaks or valve damage.

Once the engine is out, get it upside-down and check closely for main web cracks. The method I prefer is cleaning well with brake cleaner, then heat the webs well with a propane torch or heat gun (beware of flammables!). If there are cracks, oil will seep out of them.

[65-f100]

Great info DMAX. Kinda what I was thinking too - why mess with the internals if they're ok. One question - is the thread size a standard size for compression testers or do I need a special adapter? I have a gasser tester that has both 14mm and 18mm sizes. Great idea on the looking for the cracks too.

Thanks

[racer55]

Thread size is the same as the glow plugs,it is diesel specific for the 6.2,6.5.
Harbor freight sells a low cost compression tester for diesels.

I would aim for 400 psi minimum-GM's condemn value for less.