My 6.2 project

[Nebraska farm boy]

Hi all I guess this is my first post in a while. I was on here in the early 2000s when I wanted to buy a 82-87 chevy with a 6.2. Well long story short I bought a 82 K30 DRW. I have always like the 6.2 after riding in my grandpa's 82 6.2 manual k10 that broke a transmission everytime he towed with it but would get 26mpg on a regularly. I know to get the good mpg I should have picked a different truck but here I am.

Honestly I bought the 82 because it is a k30, I seem to be addicted to buying them and it was the 2nd of the 3 I now own, starting with my 79 K30 I rock crawl with. It is a 92k mile truck and for where I live is pretty rust free. The specs are J code 6.2, sm465, 205 and 4.10s in the 60 and 70. When I first bought it I was up in the air as what to do with it. Though it lacks power it honestly does great handling a trailer. The other thing is for country cruising it does a great job getting good mpgs if it is below 55mph. Pretty much the first and only mod other than changing oil and air filter was to upgrade the 225 85 16s to 235 85 16s. Actually the speedo is about right now. Here is what I know about the truck, it has new injectors and pump. In about 2005 it got new head gaskets, bolts, damper, and lifters (one was collapsed). The owner of the truck let it sit alot only using it to pull a huge trailer that was too big.

So now to the project. After towing my other K30 to the area we typically wheel at a dismal 45 or less mph it spurred me to consider a turbo. I did dyno it N/A on my buddies mustang chassis and it made 116 and 232. It gained 10hp and 10ft/lbs with the removal of the aircleaner lid.

I thought about buying a banks kit but reading a little and not really finding a deal I decided to piece a kit together. My first purchase was a new banks manifold off of ebay. I am currently looking at a HX35 and buying the crossover from banks to fit my truck. I figure I will limit the boost to 12ish and I do have a dodge intercooler that I test fit on another 80s chevy I was turboing so hopefully it will fit since I have it. The exhaust will be 3" to the 3.5" muffler I have from a lpg turbo project I had.

I am not sure of the pump but I will look soon. I mostly just want to be able to run 60ish pulling my 22 foot trailer with my Crawler or my Camaro. I will use it on the farm some.

I honestly am not looking to tear it apart to make it tougher. It is a red block but I honestly wonder how much stock someone should put into them being better. I see a 6.2 for sale here about once a month from someone pulling one out of a cucv so if it breaks i will just buy one.

Thanks for any help you can give.

[Nebraska farm boy]

The other thing is if sitting overnight or at times for days some times on a cold start after the glow plugs go out if you try and start it, it will start and run for 2 seconds then die. You have to cycle the plugs again and it will start but it harder. This doesn't happen every time and never when hot.

[More Power]

Welcome back!

The Banks turbo kit usually delivers a max of 8-10 psi boost pressure. Since it's a non-wastegated turbo, it takes some engine rpm to get the boost. The HX should be better in that regard, but I might be inclined to duplicate the boost produced by the Banks turbo. If so, you won't necessarily need an intercooler.

The Banks system adds about 30-40% more power. An easy way to visualize this is that you'll have the power in 3rd with the turbo that you had in 2nd without the turbo.

Start then stall is usually due to air in the fuel supply. These trucks were equipped with dual tanks and an electrical switching valve. That valve has been an air leak source for some. Check the fuel line from the tank to the injection pump for any signs of leakage. Make sure the lift pump is generating the necessary flow/pressure. The early lift pumps have been an air leak source as well.

Post a pic.....

Jim

[Nebraska farm boy]

This is the old girl after the new tires http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc43/80427/0501122008.jpg

This is my 79 K30 that I fix fence and rock crawl with. It is a Gen VI 454 short block with 781 heads, mercury marine mag roller cam (35 dollars) 224, .485 lift 115 lc, performer intake, Impco 425, Model E. Sm465, 11.875 luk clutch, 205, 4.10s in the 60 and 14. Lockrite front, detroit rear. 4 inches of lift 1 inch 0 rates moving the front forward 1.5"s and rear back 1.5"s. Ord traction bar, steering box brace, and about half the rest of the catalog. Last but not least 39.5 13.5 16.5 Irok swampers. I am working on increasing the carburation by adding a second 425 and E since the 425 is only 460 cfm. I am doing it using a tunnel ram. I it currently makes about 350 hp and 450ft/lbs. I will dyno it again with the tunnel ram hoping for a tpi type torque increase since lpg doesn't drop out like gas does at low signal.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc43/80427/0511121814.jpg

[Nebraska farm boy]

Welcome back!

The Banks turbo kit usually delivers a max of 8-10 psi boost pressure. Since it's a non-wastegated turbo, it takes some engine rpm to get the boost. The HX should be better in that regard, but I might be inclined to duplicate the boost produced by the Banks turbo. If so, you won't necessarily need an intercooler.

The Banks system adds about 30-40% more power. An easy way to visualize this is that you'll have the power in 3rd with the turbo that you had in 2nd without the turbo.

Start then stall is usually due to air in the fuel supply. These trucks were equipped with dual tanks and an electrical switching valve. That valve has been an air leak source for some. Check the fuel line from the tank to the injection pump for any signs of leakage. Make sure the lift pump is generating the necessary flow/pressure. The early lift pumps have been an air leak source as well.

Post a pic.....

Jim

I am sure I will get greedy and push the limit on the boost but right now my limit is 12. I guess I am hoping for more power than what you are saying because last time in the hills I was lucky to see 45 by the top of the hills and we are only at 1300 feet. It was 90 degrees out so I know that didn't help and I did have more of a load but I get tired of the ribbing I get. I don't expect a duramax or even a good running 8.1 but is should pull better than my 383 K10 which it currently doesn't. I will work on the leaks this weekend. Am I silly to plumb in the intercooler? What is a realistic boost limit? Will my pump and stock injectors supply enough fuel? I have a small electric lift pump and the mech one is currently bypassed so I need to clean up some of the piping so it is less cobbled. I plan to run maybe a holley red pump as a lift pump (6 psi) and eliminate the mech but keep all the canister style filters.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I ordered a banks crossover, the radiator hose and some angle mounts for my boost/pyrometer gauges so I can mount them in the middle of the trim strip on the passanger side of the dash. I am tempted to order a tach but I am not sure I A) need one B) should spend that much. Suggestions for kind, type? Does anyone know of a current down pipe for another truck that will get me close on my hx-35 without a huge amount of custom work? I have built custom downpipe before but if there was something close I could just tweak would save time.

[Nebraska farm boy]

Wow this site is deader than I remember.

[DmaxMaverick]

Wow this site is deader than I remember.

"It's the economy, stupid"

I'm NOT calling anyone "stupid". That's a quote, by a famous person, and says it pretty straight forward.

We see the forum traffic regularly follow the economy. High fuel prices means less driving. Less driving is less breaking. It also means less costly projects or interest in fixing things when money is tight. Out of sight, out of mind. We don't like it, but it is what it is.

Automotive activity, in general, isn't necessarily dead. Sick, maybe. Add to that, this is a slower time of year for us, typically. We'll hang in, as best we can.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I understand. I just remember alot more activity. Maybe I am an exception but my life is nearly the same as it was 5 years ago as far a money. I did do a good job of removing debt from my life so that makes a big difference I guess. Most others forums have a huge group of people just waiting to tell you how you are doing it wrong. Maybe this one will be better about that.

[Edahall]

Maybe the pictures from this link will help. That said, I've got an HX35 on my Cummins and it works really good. It pulls very hard at low rpm's and I see up to 25 psi boost.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=38999

[Nebraska farm boy]

Thanks!

[DmaxMaverick]

I understand. I just remember alot more activity. Maybe I am an exception but my life is nearly the same as it was 5 years ago as far a money. I did do a good job of removing debt from my life so that makes a big difference I guess. Most others forums have a huge group of people just waiting to tell you how you are doing it wrong. Maybe this one will be better about that.

That's where the rubber meets the road. It doesn't happen here, often. Good on ya for getting your ducks in a row before the pond dried up!

[Edahall]

I am sure I will get greedy and push the limit on the boost but right now my limit is 12.

It'll be interesting to see how much boost you'll be able to make with this setup. I would say the limiting factor will be the injection pump. These older injection pumps quickly reach their limit on the amount of fuel they can pump.

For high boost, the intercooler is a must. You might also want to put in a new harmonic balancer and install a bottom end girdle just to keep things together.

[JohnC]

You're doing it all wrong!

There, feel better now? ;)

[Nebraska farm boy]

First on my ducks, I got forced to clear up debt with my divorce. Now I have a new wife that pushes me to excell instead of holding me back. I decided even thought I am old to go back to school to find a job I like instead of one I have to do for money. Trying to become a mech engineer at 36, I am the OG in each class.


It'll be interesting to see how much boost you'll be able to make with this setup. I would say the limiting factor will be the injection pump. These older injection pumps quickly reach their limit on the amount of fuel they can pump.

For high boost, the intercooler is a must. You might also want to put in a new harmonic balancer and install a bottom end girdle just to keep things together.

I will get a damper because the one I have now is a 04. Honestly I was just going to be conservative and limit the boost to whatever the pump would make. Can I just turn the pump up to about a 1/2 turn and let it go? With no more fuel it will only make so much boost and not really a lot of EGTs. Is that how you guys would do it? I will have it on the dyno. My plan is to set the load at 10k and see how the egts are running 60. Someday it will get a better built engine but if it would just pull as well as my poorly built 383 in my K10 I would be a happy camper. Someday I will have a Ranger or GV and it will be a nice for mpg and as a puller.

[Edahall]

I would just turn the screw all the way and use the pyrometer (and smoke coming out of tail pipe) as my guide to gauge how far to push down the go pedal.

Another thing that's going to limit you on power are the small precombustion chambers in your heads. They're good for good solo fuel economy but at the expense of power.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I would just turn the screw all the way and use the pyrometer (and smoke coming out of tail pipe) as my guide to gauge how far to push down the go pedal.

Another thing that's going to limit you on power are the small precombustion chambers in your heads. They're good for good solo fuel economy but at the expense of power.

They are Js but they are N/A so they aren't the smallest but smaller. Is that right?

[Edahall]

They are Js but they are N/A so they aren't the smallest but smaller. Is that right?

Have you verified that they are the original 1982 heads with coarse thread injectors?

[Nebraska farm boy]

Have you verified that they are the original 1982 heads with coarse thread injectors?

No, is there an external number or do I have to pull the valve covers. The tickets at the dealership show them putting in the coolant passage plug and putting them back on.

[Edahall]

No, is there an external number or do I have to pull the valve covers. The tickets at the dealership show them putting in the coolant passage plug and putting them back on.

Just unscrew one of the injectors and look at the threads. If they look like this, it's an 82 head.

http://www.thedieselstore.com/water/test.php?src=../Images/img/M02NA50X%2F1.jpg

[Nebraska farm boy]

Just unscrew one of the injectors and look at the threads. If they look like this, it's an 82 head.

http://www.thedieselstore.com/water/test.php?src=../Images/img/M02NA50X%2F1.jpg

Not to be a butt head but what will that gain me? If they are they are. Not looking to do any big changes. I know they are restrictive and have bigger exhaust valves but what other problems do they have?

[Edahall]

Not to be a butt head but what will that gain me? If they are they are. Not looking to do any big changes. I know they are restrictive and have bigger exhaust valves but what other problems do they have?

Well, it's possible that your engine has something other than 82 heads.

Actually, the 1982 heads with the bigger valves flowed better but the the big valves left very little meat between the valve seats so they tended to crack easily. This could result in coolant leaking into the cylinders and hydro-locking the engine.

[Nebraska farm boy]

Well, it's possible that your engine has something other than 82 heads.

Actually, the 1982 heads with the bigger valves flowed better but the the big valves left very little meat between the valve seats so they tended to crack easily. This could result in coolant leaking into the cylinders and hydro-locking the engine.

The heads were surfaced and crack inspected when they replaced the head gaskets. I think it was leaking out of the extra coolant passage the 82s had is why they replaced them.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I will look this weekend though. 99% sure they are the original 82s but I will check.

I was always going to find a set of cracked better 6.5 heads and fix them with the valve guide repair. I have seen it done alot of times with never a returning problem.

[wpdozer]

I am sure I will get greedy and push the limit on the boost but right now my limit is 12. I guess I am hoping for more power than what you are saying because last time in the hills I was lucky to see 45 by the top of the hills and we are only at 1300 feet. It was 90 degrees out so I know that didn't help and I did have more of a load but I get tired of the ribbing I get. I don't expect a duramax or even a good running 8.1 but is should pull better than my 383 K10 which it currently doesn't. I will work on the leaks this weekend. Am I silly to plumb in the intercooler? What is a realistic boost limit? Will my pump and stock injectors supply enough fuel? I have a small electric lift pump and the mech one is currently bypassed so I need to clean up some of the piping so it is less cobbled. I plan to run maybe a holley red pump as a lift pump (6 psi) and eliminate the mech but keep all the canister style filters.Be careful with with that boost limit on the 6.2. Banks sets the limit at 10 pounds for a reason. the 6.2 will not handle much more than that without the risk of breaking the crank or blowing head gaskets. My banks setup never has to go beyond 8 pounds becuase I never need it to. I would strongly suggest going with a new harmonic balancer on that old engine when doing your turbo mod.

[Edahall]

I honestly am not looking to tear it apart to make it tougher. It is a red block but I honestly wonder how much stock someone should put into them being better. I see a 6.2 for sale here about once a month from someone pulling one out of a cucv so if it breaks i will just buy one.


I don't think Nebraska farm boy is too concerned about his 6.2 breaking since he's got a good source of used engines should that happen. That said, I've heard of people running stock 6.2 engines with boost number up into the upper teens.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I plan on being conservative. If I break it I will see what the best course of action is.

This weekend I towed with it again pulling my 79 k30 to the ORV park. Not really sure the weight, but pulls like a brick wall. Topped some hills at 45mph. Not really horrible but I am sure the turbo would help. Got about 7 mpg which is far from great, but still about twice what my k10 would get with its gas motor. It was flat on the floor about half the time. Not sure what the temp needle was reading exactly but towing it is never more than straight up. I would guess that 240(the gauge max)-100 (minus the gauge min)=140 so half of that is 70 deg. So 170 would be about my guess. I honestly really like it but wish there was more power. I still wonder if it wouldn't help to turn up the pump a tiny amount even n/a. If it ever smokes it is so slight you have to look right at the exhaust against the white concrete to see it and it is a whisper at the most and that is flat against the floor pulling a hill.

[wpdozer]

I don't think Nebraska farm boy is too concerned about his 6.2 breaking since he's got a good source of used engines should that happen. That said, I've heard of people running stock 6.2 engines with boost number up into the upper teens.
Sorry, I have not posted in a while. Just figured i'd post an opinion, thats all.

[Edahall]

I plan on being conservative. If I break it I will see what the best course of action is.

This weekend I towed with it again pulling my 79 k30 to the ORV park. Not really sure the weight, but pulls like a brick wall. Topped some hills at 45mph. Not really horrible but I am sure the turbo would help. Got about 7 mpg which is far from great, but still about twice what my k10 would get with its gas motor. It was flat on the floor about half the time. Not sure what the temp needle was reading exactly but towing it is never more than straight up. I would guess that 240(the gauge max)-100 (minus the gauge min)=140 so half of that is 70 deg. So 170 would be about my guess. I honestly really like it but wish there was more power. I still wonder if it wouldn't help to turn up the pump a tiny amount even n/a. If it ever smokes it is so slight you have to look right at the exhaust against the white concrete to see it and it is a whisper at the most and that is flat against the floor pulling a hill.

Your 79 K30 should weight in around 6500 lbs. Did you use a tow bar or towed it on a trailer? Yes, 7 mpg is terrible if you used a tow bar. I'm sure part of if is due to the TH400 transmission and 4.11 gears. I got 20 mpg towing what's pictured and both beds were heavily loaded with equipment.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Ventura/P1030293.jpg

[Nebraska farm boy]

It was on my tandum 22' trailer. I am guessing my 79 is closer to 5000 now but I need to weigh it. Lots of iron missing from rust and lightened for wheeling. The trailer and both trucks are posted on the first page of this thread.

[Edahall]

This weekend I towed with it again pulling my 79 k30 to the ORV park. Not really sure the weight, but pulls like a brick wall. Topped some hills at 45mph. Not really horrible but I am sure the turbo would help. Got about 7 mpg which is far from great, but still about twice what my k10 would get with its gas motor. It was flat on the floor about half the time. Not sure what the temp needle was reading exactly but towing it is never more than straight up. I would guess that 240(the gauge max)-100 (minus the gauge min)=140 so half of that is 70 deg. So 170 would be about my guess. I honestly really like it but wish there was more power. I still wonder if it wouldn't help to turn up the pump a tiny amount even n/a. If it ever smokes it is so slight you have to look right at the exhaust against the white concrete to see it and it is a whisper at the most and that is flat against the floor pulling a hill.

You mean your gas K10 would get only 4 mpg towing the truck + flatbed? How fast are you towing on a level ground?

Yeah you can turn up the pump but it'll probably just make more smoke and no more power unless you also deal with the restrictive exhaust system. These engines in N/A form respond surprisingly well to some exhaust mods. Take a look at my signature to give you an idea of my setup.

[Nebraska farm boy]

Yep not great for sure. 65-70 on flat and the 383 will maintain it on hills. It really gets poor mpg. I have had it on the chassis dyno a bunch of times. It is 16 to 1 a/f right now at 65. I need to mess with it more but it ain't great. I think alot of it has to do with the 180 cc heads it has. They just don't have the velocity.

[Edahall]

If you're only getting 7 mpg with the 6.2L diesel and 4 mpg with the 383 pulling your load, I think you would be better off with a big block engine. Both of those mpg numbers indicate that you're working those engines way out of their good efficiency band. That said, what I notice with my 6.2L is that it gets very good fuel economy solo but really not that great pulling. It just doesn't have enough low rpm grunt (like a Cummins) for being a real serious tow vehicle.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I pulled it with my dads 8.1 and it got about 6. The K10 has a 383 built for circle track I decammed and swapped with the old 350 it had so I could use it for my next engine. it makes about 325hp and 400lbs of torque(it was dynoed a few years ago) and pulls very well. The holley that is on it has been tweeked and tweeked but I think it needs a slightly smaller power valve but I have yet to put a vac gauge too it.

The engine is a 383, with 6" rods, 9 to 1 compression and a 209 218 duration cam. I think part of the problem is the heads are pretty large and have low velocity at std operating speed as well as the fact that it is lifted 2". I honestly think a swap to vortec heads would help a lot but it would push what I feel comfortable for compression. Maybe next rebuild. It has more than enough power to run the speed I want it just is a bit too miss matched.

The 79 has a 454 on lpg and was in fact turboed about a year ago but I didn't like how it acted crawling rocks.

I am hoping the 6.2 with the turbo will fill my limited towing needs with more power and a gain in MPG.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I have everything collected and my truck is in lincoln so now I just need to find time to do it. Who's idea was it for me to go back to school anyway?

[Nebraska farm boy]

can you guys tell me a some information on diesels? I am a gas rat so somethings are difficult for me to understand.

The first thing is with adding this turbo to my engine, I know I am fuel limited because of my small injection pump. I know this will limit boost but will it cause any bad effects? I know I will have to watch the EGTs but will low fuel cause higher egts? I do have a head I bought of ebay that is a NOS 6.2 synadyne head for the military and I was thinking of buying a used 6.5 pump. If it just runs about as good as a stock 454 would I will be plenty happy. I may push it a little but I don't want to pop it right away.

[DmaxMaverick]

Diesel and gas engines are entirely different, when it comes to fuel/air mixture. A diesel engine isn't throttled, like a gasser. The air intake is unrestricted (as it can be), all the time. The engine speed/power is determined by the fuel volume and timing. A Diesel engine cannot run "lean" (such as a gasser, I'm guessing that's your concern). More fuel, more fuel/energy heat and power. Less fuel, less fuel/energy heat and power. The turbo uses exhaust gas heat energy (via the turbine, exhaust side of the turbo) to help get more air into the engine (via the compressor, intake side of the turbo). Too much fuel for the available oxygen can cause higher EGT's (opposite that of gassers), and is accompanied with excessive black smoke (similar to a gasser). An efficient running Diesel (6.2/6.5) will have a slight haze of black/gray smoke during acceleration, and less smoke once the turbo is fully spooled and producing the maximum boost for the fuel under full/heavy load. A lot of black smoke at any time, or light black/gray smoke at times it shouldn't, indicates a problem with air supply, or timing. White smoke is an indication of too little heat to fully consume the fuel, be it a cold engine, poor compression, poorly atomized fuel (bad injectors, poor/low pump performance), or retarded timing.

Gas and Diesel engines, especially GM 5.7/6.2/6.5 Diesel engines, share many similarities with GM gas engines. These aren't "converted" gas engines, but Diesel engines designed with fitment requirements into vehicles originally designed for gas engines. This is one reason converting a gas vehicle to a GM Diesel, even sedans, is a relatively simple operation.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I guess I am starting to understand. This weekend I helped a buddy turn up the pump on his banks turbo IDI. It would never reach 10 psi and only 900 egt heavily loaded. Turning up the pump helped it pull better, bumped the psi.

I started on my little project. Pulled the radiator for a little more room. Pretty dirty. I am not sure if I can have it cleaned up (not a lot of radiator guys around anymore) and a new one is $500. It didn't leak so I may just do my old vinegar trick I used to do when I was poor. I am going to pull the intake and clean up the fuel pumping. I was going to go to gates push lock hose on what rubber hose my truck has. I looked at the swapping on the dodge inter-cooler and it looks like it will be a lot of work for what it will help. With my limited boost I think I will skip it and just do meth injection if I am having a egt problem.

[Nebraska farm boy]

Well I spent all week finishing the turbo project. Along with the HX35 and the Banks cross over I had to build the cold piping and the exhaust. The inlet is just a 4" elbow cut to and dented to clear the oil cooler piping and the low coolant sensor to a cone aircleaner. The exhaust is 3" to under the box then up sized to 3.5 and a magnaflow muffler. I couldn't figure out what to do for a hat so I actually welded the aircleaner housing together and used it. Looks hokey but it held the boost.

I dynoed it friday. The stock hp was 116 and the tq 232. It went up to 150hp and 350ftlbs of tq. The peak tq is about 250rpm higher at 2100 now and the peak hp is actually around 3000 now and it was 3400. The boost was never over 11-12 except on one pull that we where simulating a 15000lb load on a 3% grade. I dropped a gear and it hit 15. The egts where never over 1100 (and that was only on the hard pull). The pump is turned up a 1/2 a turn. It did have a small amount of smoke but I would call it a gray haze not black. I am going to run it as is and see how it does. I will keep my eye on the gauges and turn the fuel down if needed.

[Nebraska farm boy]

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc43/80427/31553_4652401520023_43154739_n.jpg

Not pretty but I think it will work. The intercooler didn't fit so I may use meth or water injection this summer if the egts get hot.

I also added new glow plugs, replaced all the hose with pushloc hose and a holley red pump as a lift pump. Starts so much better than before. Seriously like a half a revolution.

[trbankii]

Looks like pretty good progress!

[Nebraska farm boy]

I still need to drive it on the road. Hoping for a diecent improvement.

[Nebraska farm boy]

I guess I get to pull my k30 this next weekend. Should be a good test.

[Edahall]

I dynoed it friday. The stock hp was 116 and the tq 232. It went up to 150hp and 350ftlbs of tq. The peak tq is about 250rpm higher at 2100 now and the peak hp is actually around 3000 now and it was 3400. The boost was never over 11-12 except on one pull that we where simulating a 15000lb load on a 3% grade.


I guess I get to pull my k30 this next weekend. Should be a good test.

Let us know how well it pulls. I think it'll still feel pretty heavy (but be adequate) based on your dyno numbers.

[Nebraska farm boy]

The truck and trailer weighs less than 10k, it just has a lot of wind resistance. I am sure it will be heavy but just being able use my truck instead of my old mans will make things nicer for me. I was clearing steep hills at 40mph before, hoping for 55ish and less 80 down so I can go 40 up.

Am I pushing my luck at 11-12 psi?

[Edahall]

Am I pushing my luck at 11-12 psi?

Yes....

[Nebraska farm boy]

Oh, well we will see what happens.

[Gunnar1971]

Oh, well we will see what happens.
I've been waiting since last year for an update................................:p



How is she doing NFB?

[Nebraska farm boy]

Well so far so good. Pulled a my trailer with just a cab and clip off a 84 on it and it pulled well. I need to turn the pump down a little since it will easily hit 14 at Wot. I also found a few more problems. First one of the lower injection pumps fuel lines is leaking and I need to figure out if it is easier to try and tighten it with a long extention and a crows foot or just man up and repull the intake. Also it appears the main seal is leaking. I may have to let that go a little while till I have time to address it. Finally despite the coolness of the air cleaner as a hat it either needs reinforced or replaced. The center is now pretty deformed. I start college again monday so it will be a few weekends till I get a chance to fix all the problems but I will post what I find. It runs very good and hopefully it will last awhile with the added boost.

[Nebraska farm boy]

Since the install I have had to fix a few problems. It some how developed a injector line leak that required me to pull the intake. That is now repaired. The turbo was pulling a lot of blow by past the cdr so I did my old circle track trick of filling the hose to the cdr with steel wool. This seems to help the vapor condense and allow the oil to drain back but still allows a vac on the crankcase. I thought I had a main seal leak but I suspect it was the injector line leak running down the back of the block cleaning off the oil. I am currently reading the boost right at the turbo. I am planning on putting a fitting in my old CDR port on the intake to see what the engine is actually seeing. I am really happy so far and have been doing a few upgrades to the truck itself. Hand throttle, new radio, cleaning and replacing the lights in the cluster. Welding the shifter to tighten it up. So now the question to you folks. Most of the time I am close enough to home that if I have engine trouble I can get the truck home. The question is how far should I trust this engine? It has 91k on the whole truck. Other than a new damper from what I can tell it is stock 82. If I never push more than the 8-10 psi is it still a bomb? Should I be 4bt or 6.2 long block shopping now?

[JeepSJ]

Keep the EGT's in check and it should last a very, very long time. IMHO that is more important than the boost. If you don't have an EGT gauge yet, get one ASAP. I wouldn't push it past 1100 for any length of time.

Sounds like you are liking that HX35. How quickly does it spool?

[Nebraska farm boy]

It has had a egt gauge since the turbo install. It has never seen more than 1000 with the reading taken right under the turbo in the manifold. I should have put it on the dash because I watch it as much as the road.

I like the turbo alot. It has a little lag but nothing really bad. On the highway it works great esp pulling.

[Nebraska farm boy]

So here we are again. The update to my 6.2 is after fixing a few boost leaks and getting a proper banks hat for the intake the boost was a high as 18 psi. I retarded the pump just so the pumps line is offset to the retarded side of the timing covers line and the boost lag was largely reduced. The 6.2 has become harder to start and oil leaks that are repaired just cause new ones. It did have a pretty rough 92k before me and I am hard on stuff. I have been searching for quite a while for a better/different block so I can just rering etc and swap it in. I just bought a na 6.5 from a P step van. It ran when pulled and was complete from oil pan to air cleaner with all the accessory drive and oil cooler. The date code is H070. So unless I am wrong that should be Aug 00. Depending on where you read on the internet this block could be great or junk. I will tear it down to be sure. Does anyone know anymore about these late preGEP blocks? Is there any info/specifications about these NA 6.5s anywhere? This block came out of a 99 P van so it has either been rebuilt or replaced as some time.
I don't plan any really upgrades besides new gaskets and potentially studs. This engine did come with a DB2831 in a 5438 so I am hoping to have it freshed and speced to a 4911 and have the injectors inspected and adjusted to the turbo pop pressure, while I am going though it. The plan is to swap in a nv4500 I have that has been waiting at the same time. I do have a few questions. I have read that a 6.5 will accept the 6.2 flywheel, can anyone confirm this? I am plan on running less boost on this engine. The plan is just to have a farm truck that may pull some heavy trailer but just 5-10 miles at the most and just use it to run around. I, like everyone, hope it gets like 50 mpg, knowing I will be lucky to crack 20. The extra pair of tires makes a big difference when pulling.