New motor break in oil recommendations

[sctrailrider]

What oil would you use for break in on a new motor (6.5) and what oil change interval to change to synthetic..

Thanks for your recommendations...

[greatwhite]

Look for a high zinc content oil.

Some say to use a monograde, I've always used a quality multigrade.

More important is how you drive it during break in and changing out the oil at around the 500 mile mark.

You wan tto load the engine up to around the 75% mark. If you treat it too nicely on fresh bores, it can glaze and the only way to deal with that is to rehone. If you're too harsh on it, you risk accelerated wear.

A couple heat cycles and a little bit of light loading for the first 500 miles and you're good.

Many think changing the oil is for "shavings" from the break in procedure. It's actually more about getting the oil out of the case that's been subjected to higher than normal amounts of blowby products during the ring seating process.

Well, you may get some particulate out that is left over in there somewhere also.

here's a bit of reading: http://www.aera.org/ep/downloads/ep8/EPQ409_36-39.pdf

Now, this is how I do it and only my free advice so take it for what you paid for it.....:rolleyes:

Everyone tends to do it a little differently and you'll get as many opinions on it as the amount of times you ask.

:cool:

[Robyn]

As long as the engine was built properly there is little worries about the so called "BREAK IN"

Years ago the break in was recommended because clearances were not always perfect and the interanl parts needed to "wear in".

During this process the rings, bores, bearings and such all settled in and there was indeed some wear.

Today the bores are honed very smooth and the use of Moly rings has made the "Ring seat in" really a mute point.

If the clearances are right (Piston, bearings and such) there is virtually nothing to need break in time.

My rule on this is to warm the engine up varying the speed and such.

Once the criter is at operating temp, take it out and give it a good romp on the highway at various speeds.

Do some full throttle runs, but not extended hard pulls.

Basically put the thing to work as you will use it.

Dump the oil and filter at 500 miles, then go to your regular intervals.

If you desire to use Synthetic, go for it.

I personally would use the synth right off if you are going to use it and dont mix the two. (There will be about a quart of regular oil left in the coolers and such during the change)

If you start with synth, just swap the filter at 500 miles, top the oil off and go the full service interval with the ballance of the oil.

A fresh engine need not be a major hastle, just keep tabs on such things as coolant level, oil level and look for any leaks for the first couple days.

The term BREAK IN is rather antiquated.

Run the thing like your gonna use it. :)

Missy

[greatwhite]

While I do agree with Missy's post, when I got my new Optimizer from GM/GEP it came with break in oil already in the 'case.

We called and they said to leave the "break in oil" in the 'case and not to drain/refill with anything else for the first 500. Doing so would void the warranty even if it was synthetic or a "superior" oil.

After the first change it was fine to run synthetic.

We also told them I would be hitching the trailer up and towing almost right away ( I was in a bad spot and had no choice). This was also fine due to the fact of the manufacturing clearances and the materials used (as Missy mentioned). Just take it easy and get that 500 on it before any WFO throttle runs up any serious grades (made for some seriously slow crawling that first day to keep the egt's super low and the loading lighter). Bill was never been completely comfortable about that, but maybe it's just an "old dogs" and whatnot kind of thing. I certainly understand the advances that have been made in OEM manufacturing processes since the "old days"....

Not trying to be a snot, that's just what we were told by the GM rep when Bill called them about the oil that came already in the 'case.

They might have been just covering their butt, or maybe the "break in oil" actually was a high ZDDP product.

Dunno......

:)

[sctrailrider]

Thanks everyone, I also was told by a few local HP builders here that sort of info, they said to use synthetic but to add 2 bottles of ZDDP to the oil to help...