View Full Version : Died like it was turned off
As I speak, my 1997 K1500 6.5S model is sitting on the side of the road. The truck started hard as usual, ran just fine as usual for about five miles then the motor died as if you had shut off the key. I ran the codes and I have a code for a high turboboost (have had that for a while) Egr code (have the egr blocked) but there is one code I haven't seen; it is a code for a high timing readout. don't remember exactly what the number was. I changed the fuel pump fuse, checked the fuel solenoid fuse. I also tried a spare FSD, turns over fast but doesn't even act like it is getting fuel. That is all I was able to do on the side of the road. Any suggestions?
greatwhite
07-05-2012, 08:59
First off let me say; bummer.
It's never a great feeling when you vehicle leaves you stranded.
You're fairly limited on what you can do by the side of the road.
Swapping the pmd/fsd is the usual quick fix, but youve already done that.
The codes for timing can be related to the pmd, but as mentioned, you've tried that.
Timing could also be an optical sensor or a crank sensor, not something you can adress on the side of the road very well and would be a shot in the dark without more troubleshooting first. Air in the fuel can also cause timing faults related to the optical sensor. Again, not easily dealt with by the side of the road. The actual code it threw would be helpful.
With the high boost code I'm assuming you're running a mechanical wastegate control. But that's not really relevant to your immediate problem.
Next I would try cracking an injector line nut to see if fuel is making I there. If no fuel I would check the fuel shut off solenoid to see if it is working. If the solenoid fails it cuts fuel to the pump immediately.
If the shut off solenoid has failed, you can remove the pintle off the end and thread it back in. The truck will run, but you should only drive it home. An electronic 6.5 should shut off with the key and not run away, but if the fuel delivery solenoid on the pump should fail open, you don't have a fuel shut off solenoid to kill it.
It's really should be a just a one time "get you home" fix.
You're pretty limited to what you can trouble shoot on the side of the road. If these quick things don't get it running, you're probably looking at a tow bill to get it home.
Then you can get into checking fuel lines, grounds, etc...
Good luck getting it running.
Oh boy. I ended up having it towed to a shop since I was in a suit but I got a call today telling me they wouldn't work on the truck! This, despite the fact that they have changed the oil, they said they forgot it was a diesel!!!! When I called them and told them it was down they asked what it was and I said a 6.5 detroit, I guess I should have added diesel. Anyway, I am going to tow it home with a chain and a bar in a bit. At least I will have it home and can start working on it here. I will start with the fuel shut off valve (there) and see if that does it. If not, I will need some serious help here. Thanks for your help greatwhite.
greatwhite
07-06-2012, 12:00
Quick note for you; don't turn the key on with the shutoff solenoid removed or the lift pump will pump fuel out through the hole in the ip.
You can pull the pump fuse or unplug the pump electrical connector if you want to see if the plunger/pintle opens with key on power.
I would suggest sliding under the truck and unplugging the lift pump as the most certain way.
Okay Greatwhite, I got her towed home (lots of fun at 105 degrees!) at least it's home with no excitement! I pulled the fuel shutoff solenoid and placed contacts on the plug with a multimeter. With the multimeter turned to Ohms, the needle was all the way to the left until I completed the contact, at which time the needle went to the far right, which, if I read this right says 0 Ohms. As you can see I am not very competent with a multimeter! Encouraged that I may have found my failure, I placed small clips on each terminal plug of the solenoid and energized them to the battery and got....Nothing! I think that sounds good right? SO, at this point, my plan is to buy a new solenoid and see if she starts up. Let me know if it appears I did the Ohm test right. Thanks for the help and let me know your suggestion.
greatwhite
07-06-2012, 19:03
Okay Greatwhite, I got her towed home (lots of fun at 105 degrees!) at least it's home with no excitement! I pulled the fuel shutoff solenoid and placed contacts on the plug with a multimeter. With the multimeter turned to Ohms, the needle was all the way to the left until I completed the contact, at which time the needle went to the far right, which, if I read this right says 0 Ohms. As you can see I am not very competent with a multimeter! Encouraged that I may have found my failure, I placed small clips on each terminal plug of the solenoid and energized them to the battery and got....Nothing! I think that sounds good right? SO, at this point, my plan is to buy a new solenoid and see if she starts up. Let me know if it appears I did the Ohm test right. Thanks for the help and let me know your suggestion.
If I understand you correctly, you put 12v to the solenoid and it didn't move?
If yes, then a failure ofthe solenoid is highly likely.
If you want to confirm the solenoid is your problem, simply remove the pintle on the end of the rod and screw it back in to the ip.
If you try to start the truck and it fires up, your solenoid is definitely toast...
I asgree, that if the solenoid does not move when 12V is applied, then the solenoid has failed.
I do not recommend trying the solenoid without the pintle ! ! ! !
The shut off solenoid is the only shut off safety between you and a complete runaway should there be another issue.
Get a fresh solenoid and replace the failed one.
be safe and good luck.
Missy
Thanks greatwhite and Robyn, I couldn't find a fuel shutoff solenoid in town so I ordered one online. I should have it in five to seven days, I will update you when I get it put on. Thanks for all your help.
Okay, not good news. I changed the fuel shutoff solenoid but the truck didn't start. I cracked a fuel line at the injector and it was dry. I then made sure I had fuel coming out the top side of the fuel filter, all good. I checked to make sure the new solenoid was energizing, and it is. I unpluged the optical sensor (seems like I read here that someone suggested that) and finally I got some fuel out of the cracked line. It could be coincedence. I ran the codes and they are, 0236, 0238, 0380 and 0406. I am wondering if the truck sucked all the fuel out of the pump when the fuel shut off valve failed and if so, would that make it hard to reprime? I finally ran the batteries down so I quit. Any help is appreciated, I have no idea where to go from here.
greatwhite
07-12-2012, 01:36
It can be a beotch to prime a pump and the lines after a "run dry" scenario.
Is it running at all?
If not and given your description, I would lean toward air stil in the pump and lines....
I haven't looked up your codes so there could still be a clue in those.
No the truck is not running at all but your assessment is really good news. I will crack a few more lines and see if I can get fuel to weep. Thanks greatwhite for staying with me.
greatwhite
07-12-2012, 07:11
Just be careful on that starter.
Short crank times, lots of cool off time.....
Or, pull out the glow plugs. Not necessary but it will make it easier and faster to turn over.
I wouldn't recommend pulling the plugs if they aren't relatively new (like a couple months new). Break one and you life get a bit more miserable.
You don't need that right now.
Don't be surprised if it runs like crap for a minute when you get it started. It will be purging air for a few turns before it clears up if you have a lot in there....
DmaxMaverick
07-12-2012, 10:19
If the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid) failed, the pump wouldn't "dry up". It would just shut off, or stay shut off, with no fuel flow, or would stay running (DB2) or have fuel available to run (DS4) if it failed open (stuck open). A dry pump can only be caused by a loss of fuel supply (replaced by air), or a failed IP. Since it's a DS4, turning off the key stops the fuel solenoid (fuel meter solenoid), as well as closes the ESS. If the ESS failed, the engine would (should) still stop with key off. On a DS4 fuel system, the ESS is only a secondary engine stop method, and a backup in case the pump/PMD fail to full fueling (runaway engine), as the PCM will close it at maximum engine overspeed (about 3800, IIRC).
If you only messed with the ESS, you may have gotten some air in the pump, but certainly not enough to dry it up. There should have been enough fuel remaining to get it started and clear out. If you aren't getting fuel to the cylinders now, something else is wrong. Dead pump, PMD, fuel solenoid (meter, not ESS), or control circuit.
Dmax, you have voiced my fears,but it is what it is. The truck was running great until this event. I don't know how a ds4 dies but I had this truck over at the vo-tec school and supposedly they rebuilt everything, including having the pump rebuilt by a competent shop. I gave them $6,500 just for parts! That was about 5 years ago, but only about 15,000 miles on the truck since. Problem is, I don't know what they really did. The guy in charge was fired over something but no one would ever say what. SO I don't really know what I've got. The codes don't tell me what I should do either. I did plug in a proven pmd. I have a spare computer that has the exact same no's, don't know if it is good, came from a bone yard. Should I try that? If I crack two or three lines and get fuel, does that mean the pump is okay? This is a primary vehicle and I really need it badly, I just don't know what to do next.
DmaxMaverick
07-12-2012, 14:09
I dunno. I suggest going back to the diagnostic process, from the start, without any assumptions. Eliminate components/systems as appropriate.
This makes no sense. I took my time and retested the old fuel shutoff valve and it is definitely dead, but when I put the new one on, it didn't start. I spun the motor over in 15 second intervals 15-20 cycles. When I started yhete was fuel viming out the injector lines. I now have a dribble with the lines loosened, but I notice the glow plugs only energize for about a second now.
Okay folks, I need some direction. First a recap; driving down the road sixty mph, the truck died like you turned off the key. It didn't miss, it didn't cough, it just quit running. I suspected a fuel shutoff solenoid because I put a used one on a couple of years ago. After the truck was towed home, I tested the shutoff solenoid and it was indeed dead. I purchased a new one, put it on and the truck still won't start. SO, tonight, I hard wired the fuel pump (on the frame) to make sure it was giving enough pressure, I hard wired the glow plug controller and put in a monitor bulb that would only come on when the plug side of the controller was engergized. I then took the pintle out of the old solenoid and put it in place of the new one. I engerized the new one to make sure it was functioning properly (it is.) I even started the fuel pump with the solenoid out to watch the fuel flow and sure enough it pumped a bunch of fuel out. I put the fuel shutoff solenoid back in place and plugged it in. I also tested the connection to make sure it was staying energized while the key was on. I replaced the pmd with a proven pmd. Each time I made a change I would turn the truck over for 15 seconds with two injector lines cracked. I tried it with the optic sensor unplugged and with it plugged in. I am getting a little fuel out the first line on the drivers side but nothing out of the third line same side. I am useing th glow plugs for 8 seconds and keeping the frame mounted fuel pump on when I turn the truck over. So my question is, what am I missing other than the IP. Is there any sensor that would prohibit the truck from metering fuel other than the PMD?
DmaxMaverick
07-13-2012, 21:05
OK...Keep it simple. Three things are needed to fire it off. Heat, air and fuel. Air shouldn't be an issue, as it will fire even with a plugged filter or very little air in any case. If you verify you have enough heat (glow plugs, make sure they are getting hot enough), that leaves fuel. The pump is delivering some, so its getting fuel, and commanding delivery. It may be an airlocked system, which will take some time to get enough fuel to the cylinders. Focus on that. If it doesn't improve, the pump is shot (unable to pop the injectors).
greatwhite
07-14-2012, 03:00
If your shut off solenoid is working and the lift pump is also working, I'd say you still have air in the lines/pump.
The fact your shutoff was dead leads me to believe you're still got air in the line as opposed to a terminal injector pump. Most likely an introduction of air at the shut off solenoid point once removed. It's not common for that to happen, but I've had it occur once on my DS4. Can make you chase your tail for a while......
However, it is possible the pump has packed it in. But it would be a very unusual coincidence for the shut off to fail, the truck to stop and have a simultaneous IP failure to the point where it won't run. That would be one heck of a bad stroke of luck.
Keep bleeding, it can take a while to get enough air out for it to kick. You have to remember that the PCM is only commanding around 6 mm^3 of fuel at the idle setting (stomping on the throttle won't change that with the engine off in case you're wondering). That's not much volume of fuel and will take a fair bit to fill the injector lines all the way to the injectors.
Once it does, it will probably run like crap (shake, shudder, miss, etc), but it will eventually purge the remaining air once it starts.
Remember; careful with that starter and those batteries......don't burn either out or the repair bill gets bigger. Make sure the starter is off more than it's on (ie: duty cycle) and the batteries get recharged at regular intervals.
Good luck.
Have you checked the fuse? A bad shutoff solenoid might have blown the fuel solenoid fuse. (It sort of doesn't fit with your scenario, but is an easy and cheap thing to do).
Also, can you put your hand on the fuel solenoid (not shutoff solenoid) in the rear of the pump and see if you can feel it clicking, once for each cylinder firing.
Thanks John, yes I have checked the fuse and no I haven't put my hand to the back of the pump, I don't think I can get there even with the top of the intake manifold off but I will check. I cranked the truck another 20 or thirty times yesterday, 15 seconds crank, ten minutes rest. I now have fuel seeping from the front line on both sides and the second line on the dirvers side. I am beginning to be of the opinion that Dmax said it right, that my pump is probably weak. That would account for the difficulty clearing the air lock and it might account for the hard starts as well. I guess I am going to keep cranking on it and see what happens.
greatwhite
07-15-2012, 18:01
can't remember if this was already covered, but your lift pump is running, right?
IE: good supply to the pump....
greatwhite; yes the fuel pump is functioning, in fact, I hard wired it so I could keep it on when I am trying to start the truck. I called the pump shop that I was told built this pump four or five years ago. They told me that Standyne pumps are self purging. He suggested I take off the bypass? valve. Looking at the front of the truck it is on the immediate left of the fuel shutoff solenoid. He said they often fail. I have a pump from a bone yard so I replaced the valve with the one off the spare. I didn't notice any difference so I put a section of clear tubing from the bypass valve to the hose that normally goes on it. Boy did I get a surprise! When I turn the truck over, fuel pours out the bypass valve. I thought fuel was supposed to go IN that valve. I traced the hose and it T's going to each side of the motor and connects the rubber tubes that go on each side of the injectors. My question is, why is fuel coming out of this valve and what would happen if I put a solid plug in it? Could I raise the pressure in the pump enough to do any good?
Fuel comes out the bypass valve, then to the rubber lines that connects to a common return tube that runs down the RH side of the engine just under the intake manifold runners.
This line runs to the rear of the engine, where it connects to a rubber hose and on to the tank.
The small hoses from each injector also connect to the return line system up near the front of the engine.
One hard return line (steel) runs across the front of the engine right behind the timing case and picks up the return from both sides and the injection pump.
Thee is a jumper hose that connects this line to the line that runs to the rear of the engine.
These systems return a large quantity of fuel back to the tank.
This process is done to cool the injection pump.
These systems will self purge. Now this said, if the system has been run dry and is full of air, it can take a while.
If you hve a dry system, the best way to purge it is to remove the glow plugs and spin the engine until fuel mist blows out the glow plug ports.
This will work fairly quickly.
Robyn
I have turned this motor over enough to count as mileage and I still don't get fuel out of the lines. LOTS through the bypass valve. How hard is it to put a rebuilt pump on? Do I have to take the radiator out? I have to take the intake manifold off, get that. Looks like I have to take the AC compressor off (bad news there if I do.) What else? Probably a thread on this isn't there?
greatwhite
07-18-2012, 14:32
3 mounting nuts, 8 injector lines, a couple electrical connections and fuel lines.
You've got the intake manifold bit already.
AC doesn't have to be disconnected, but unbolting the 4 mount bolts and moving it aside can help for access. Pretty sure you could do it without even unbolting the ac mounting.
Not too hard to change at all. At least, not the physical parts of it.
Install is reverse of removal.
Maybe a day to get it off and another day to get it back together and running if you take it easy wrenching. Can be done in a day if you work at it with some determination.
Hint: label your injector lines before removal and/or take pics.
Then bleed, bleed, bleed all over again..
You do the initial instal with the pump "straight up" and then you need a scanner that can read the timing to set base timing.
Once based timing is set, you need to do TDCO relearn. Since you're OBDII, you can have the truck initiate it with a KOKO procedure. That should be on the forum here somewhere. The scanner can tell you what your TDCO setting is and adjust from there if it's not where you want or out of specs.
That's kind of quick and dirty, but it's "the nut" of it......
phantom309
07-19-2012, 18:00
I had a lift pump fail, but made the right noises,. what i noticed was lack of performance, idle was fine etc,
i,ve changed pumps,. i,ve run out of fuel,. i,ve helped folks who have had fuel problems and haven't ever had a problem getting a 6.5 computer or mechanical IP to prime and go,.
I have had one that refused to go,. and it was the IP, but it shut off while idling and then would not start again,.
Nick
Phantom309, I hear ya, I had a previous shutoff solenoid fail and the truck started right away after it was changed. Unfortunately, that isn't happening. I decided to try and start the truck AGAIN, just for laughs. I cracked three injector lines and I am getting fuel seeping out of two of the three. So, community, I have a question, can fuel from the bypass lines account for that? If not, can a pump be bad and just, kinda pump?
DmaxMaverick
07-20-2012, 20:42
Phantom309, I hear ya, I had a previous shutoff solenoid fail and the truck started right away after it was changed. Unfortunately, that isn't happening. I decided to try and start the truck AGAIN, just for laughs. I cracked three injector lines and I am getting fuel seeping out of two of the three. So, community, I have a question, can fuel from the bypass lines account for that? If not, can a pump be bad and just, kinda pump?
Simply, yes. Flow isn't pressure, and pressure is required to pop the injectors. If you are getting fuel to one, or several injectors, it should at least try to fire. If you are getting fuel to flow, forget the lift pump for now. If it's bad, it isn't stopping fuel from getting to the IP, and the IP is pumping. Also rule out electronics/electrics (PCM/PMD), if it's moving fuel, it's getting command and the fuel solenoid is working. No fuel to the cylinders, not enough pressure to pop them. The remaining curiosity is the condition of failure. They usually don't just "quit". Not that it couldn't happen, at the same time. Just curious.
Dmax, I tried it again and it is starting to try and fire. I think it is going to start - eventually but I have to think that as hard as this is, if the pump is not bad it's getting close. I has been running great before this but I guess they all have to go sometime. I just got a new code "251" and that doesn't look good! My list says it is the fuel metering code for the IP. Oops! Not sure why I would just now be getting it but that can't be good! Never the less, I am going to stay with this a bit before I take the pump off. I can't afford to buy one right now anyway.
DmaxMaverick
07-20-2012, 21:15
Yeah. It really sounds like your pump is getting tired. Wish I had a better opinion, but it is what it is. If it's trying, that's all that's left. Maybe try more glow time. Have you tried removing all the plugs, and cranking? It helps to get it primed, by a lot.
greatwhite
07-21-2012, 01:22
I hate to sound like a broken record but p0251 is consistent with an "air in the fuel" condition.
I say keep going if you think it's going to fire and see what you get.
Removing the glow plugs for priming is a good suggestion you should follow. Even if it's only one side. Makes it easier for the starter to build some rpm which makes purging air (assuming thats the issue) much more effective. Just be ready to shut it off quickly as the side with the glow plugs still in will catch and run when/if you get enough fuel to pop the injectors...
Greaaaat: Don't know how or why, but I broke a starter bolt! This morning, I went out to give her another try and found one of the bolts lying on the ground. I took the starter off, hoping there was at least a stub showing - no luck. The bolt is broken off about 1/2 inch into the housing. I have never attempted to remove one but I can tell this is going to be tricky! I assume it is a matter of drilling a hole to put one of those things that sort of screw in opposite. If there are any tricks that would be helpful, please let me know. I won't be able to work on it for a couple of weeks now, Vacation Bible School starts tomorrow! By the way, let me say again how much I appreciate all the encouragement and help you all are. I really am not a mechanic and I wouldn't even CONSIDER trying any of this without this website. I really am quite grateful.
DmaxMaverick
07-21-2012, 12:08
Ouch! Insult added to injury. Was the front support bracket installed? If not, you're up close and personal with the reason for it. If it was, you are just enjoying my luck. (I have enough for everyone)
Yes, an EZ-Out is what you'll need. I suggest the "twisted" type. Start smaller (1/4" dia.). Make sure the hole is drilled straight (if it hits the threads, it'll "stake" the bolt in place). Use a cobalt or at least a "nitride" type bit. Go slow, keep straight, and DON'T break the bit. If you can find a left-hand bit, they are MUCH better, and often turn out the broken bolt before you ever get to use the EZ-Out. Once drilled, heat the block with a propane torch (watch out for flammables!), then use a stick of wax or crayon to wick wax into the threads. Keep the heat outside (don't heat the bolt). Go slow. If the bit loses bite, back up and start over. Heat, wax, and tapping in of the bit is half of the job. Apply some turning force while tapping. I use a Vise-Grip on the bit, as it won't (normally) allow enough force to break it. It should thread out without too much force. DO NOT use enough force to break the bit. It's as hard, or harder, than your drill bits! This will either be a 10 minute piece-O'-cake job, or a nightmare you'll not soon forget. Rule #1: DON'T break the bits. Rule #2: (there is no #2).
Yep the front brace was in place, just lucky I guess. Dmax this will tell you what a novice you are working with here - I assume I run the drill in reverse if I find a left twist bit correct? I am thinking night mare I won't forget here.
DmaxMaverick
07-21-2012, 14:26
Yes. A left-twist drill bit turns opposite.
greatwhite
07-21-2012, 15:30
If you're really lucky, there's no toque left on the stub in the hole and you can fool it out with a pick by turning it.
But, you'd have to have one heck of a turn around in your bad luck streak to get it that way....
DmaxMaverick
07-21-2012, 15:44
If you're really lucky, there's no toque left on the stub in the hole and you can fool it out with a pick by turning it.
But, you'd have to have one heck of a turn around in your bad luck streak to get it that way....
Good luck with that....and that!
This happened to me not so long ago. Same situation. I had the left hand drill bit on hand. One tap with a center punch and put the bit in and it backed it right out, slicker than snot!! I would try the left twist bit before going the easy out route. Good luck.
Greatwhite, I love your optimism! Dmax I appreciate you tutelage and JFerg65 thanks for the encouragement! I won’t be able to address this for ten days or so now but I will try and find a left twist drill bit during that time and hopefully, it will work out. Thanks all. I will post again when I am able to get back on this project!
Yukon6.2
07-22-2012, 23:26
Hi ccc
get a hold of the Snapon dealer near you,they have an extractor kit,which has left hand tungsten drill bit's in it.They ussally have extra ones for the ones that break.
Thomas
billy1971
07-23-2012, 06:29
Fellas I hope this is not inapproiate to jump in on someone elses thread but starting yesterday this entire senerio is step for step exactly what im going through with my 95 3500. A week ago I ran mine out of fuel, added fuel, drove to the station and filled up (about two miles). Yesterday, I tried to start it up for quick run to pick up a Tahoe I just purchased, Nothing!! I have bypassed the fuel relay and purged the lines and filter, I have fuel pressure to the pump, changed the shut off valve, swapped PMDs twice, cracked the injector lines with no fuel coming out of them. Also tried starting fluid just enough to see it will fire and try to start. After driving this for two miles I cant beleive there is air in the system. The pump is a junk yard pump about two years old and one of the best running pumps ive had so i hate to replace it unless i have to. At this point I have about convinced myself the inj pump is the problem but Ya'll brought up the crank shaft sensor and Im not sure what part this sensor plays or how to inspect or test this sensor. Can you help?
billy1971
07-24-2012, 07:51
Ok I'll start a new thread.
Awesome Yukon6.2 that's exactly what I will do! Good luck Billy1971, I hope your issue goes smoother than mine is!
Eureka! Okay I didn't discover how to determine the volume of gold but I did get the broken bolt out of the block! Thanks to the advice and encouragement of the folk here! To make sure I didn't drill off to the side of the broken bolt, I cut a one inch piece of the bolt and drilled through it to use as a guide. I then put it on the drill bit leaving about 1/8th of the bit exposed. Using a left turn bit (as suggested) I began to drill out the broken bolt. As I put pressure on the bolt, it began to unscrew and in just a few minutes, it worked it's way to the point where I could reach it with my fingers and remove it. I am leaving town shortly for a few days but when I get back I am going to put a bone yard starter on and see if this truck starts! Thanks again to all for helping and encouraging.
Glad to hear it came right out for you. I like how you center drilled a section of the old bolt to keep you from wandering. I will definitely file that tip away for future reference. It sure is a good feeling when something that has the potential to turn into a real cluster #$%^ ends up working slicker than snot!!!
Hope you get back on the road soon.
Sometimes you can find a bushing at the hardware store that'll do the same thing. I've used steel bushings, aluminum, and even nylon ones for the same purpose.
Well, I have the boneyard starter in and no luck. I am getting a little fuel out of about half the injector lines but I have quit counting how many times I have tried to start this truck. I am getting convinced I need to put in a new IP. I have tried several PMD's, I have direct wired the lift pump, I have checked to make sure I have a good fuel flow out the bypass, I took the air cleaner out to make sure I had good air flow. I direct wired the glow plug controller. SO, unless someone has a suggestion, I need to either sell that truck as is or put in the IP. I am not particularly comfortable gaping a spark plug so putting in this IP would be a growing experience for sure. Anyone know anything about DIESEL POWER PRODUCTS? They have a rebuilt DS4 with PMD for $750.
Do you have the PMD relocated? If so have you checked the connection on the side where it plugs into the IP harness? Check carefully for corrosion. I just went through something very similar. My connection was corroded and thus getting intermittent functioing (like a bad PMD), evemntaully a no start situation as well. Mine was so bad that it arced between a couple of the pins. Anyhow in my case a new harness coming off the IP and a new extention harness and I was back in business. From the outside that connection on my truck looked like it was the day I installed it. I hope that is what is wrong with yours because it is a relative easy and cheap overall fix.
No JFerg 65, I haven't done that but I certainly will! Thanks, I really can't afford an IP so I am willing to try about anything and that's a great idea. I'll keep ya posted. Oh, by the way, yes I do have the PMD relocated.
DmaxMaverick
08-07-2012, 19:42
I understand the "I'm at the point I'll try anything" process. Been there, done that.
If you do, in fact, have a weak pump, have you tried to "thicken" the fuel? (I should reread the thread, but don't have time right now....) It's easier in the winter (let it sit overnight), but not so easy during summer. I recommend using 2-cycle oil (TWC3, which is designed for water cooled engines/outboards), but a heavier oil may be easier and more economical. Assuming 25 gallons in the tank, add one gallon, or two if you want the most effective response, right now! I use the Supertech stuff from Walmart. You could use heavier motor oil, which is not recommended for normal use, but this is diagnostic, and wouldn't hurt. Disconnect the fuel line downstream from the lift pump, install a hose, route it to the fuel filler and pump for a while to mix it well (should be easy, since you've hot-wired the pump). If your pump is weak, the now thicker fuel should make it much easier for the pump to develop pressure. If you get NO improvement, either the pump is so worn it isn't going to cooperate, or it's broken and not distributing fuel properly. If it's "pumping" fuel to the injectors, the electric/electronic is working (at least well enough it should start unless it's physically unable).
AWESOME Dmax, I will try that tomorrow! Thanks SO MUCH to all for the help. Sooner or later SOMETHING is going to work.
So Dmax, I will use a portable marine gas tank with three gallons of diesel and add one qt oil (which is the same ratio as 2 gallons oil to 25 gallons fuel if I have done my math right.) Connect it to the feed side of the lift pump, run fuel out the bypass valve on the DS4 till I get the new mixture then button it up and start cranking cycles again. Have I missed anything? And JFerg65, I will check for corrosion while I am there! Thanks guys, I feel better already! I will buy a pump if I have to, I just don't want to if it isn't absolutely neccessary.
DmaxMaverick
08-07-2012, 20:12
You got the math right, and that's an excellent idea. A lot cheaper (at $9/gal for the oil), and more simpler/faster. You won't be able to run long, as the return will still go to the tank (which is a LOT more than actually burned), unless you get creative and route the return (not just the pump) to your portable tank....
Okay Dmax I can't try the test on the IP till this weekend. I was going to do it tonight but it is RAINING! Woo Hoo! It has been really hot here with many days in the triple digits and very dry so this is really good news. I don't mind waiting a couple of days for this. I gathered all the stuff today and I planned on doing it but the truck sits outside. I just didn't want you to think I wasn't taking your advice and running with it. I appreciate you, Greatwhite and all the others more than I can tell you. Keep your fingers crossed, I will keep all informed. Hopefully this is helping others as well.
DmaxMaverick
08-08-2012, 19:27
No sweat. Problem is, if it works, is it really good news? Sometimes, just knowing has a value of its own.
Okay Dmax, now I am confused. In order to be able to see what was going on, I used clear poly tubing on all the applications for this test. I took a marine tank and mixed three gallons of diesel with a quart of 2cycle oil twc3. I then attached it to the feed side of the lift pump via poly tubing. I then disconnected the line from the bypass valve and attached a poly tube running it to a 2 liter bottle. I then started the lift pump and got nothing in the bypass tube. The poly fuel line filled up nicely with blue fuel. I cranked over the motor but got nothing in the bypass tube. I put a poly tube on the water separator and got a good flow and blue fuel. To eliminate issues, I then took the fuel shut off solenoid off (there was fuel pressue behind it and fuel sort of gushed out) and put in one I have removed the plug from. I then cranked the motor and still got nothing out of the bypass valve. I took the bypass valve off and put a nipple in it's place. I then energized the lift pump and got bubbles and some fuel. I got a lot of air out, probably from the fuel line change. Eventually, I ended up with fuel in the line from the bypass but it wasn't near the volume that comes out the water separator. When I crank the motor I get a slow flow in the bypass tube, about one half an inch per 30 seconds of cranking. Still no start.
Tried to start the truck today. I loosened the nuts on two injector lines to confirm I am getting fuel and it appears I am not. I am wondering if the fuel that was previously seeping out was coming from the bypass lines? Since I have them disconnected at this point there is no fuel going to them, the only fuel that would feed the injector set up is from the injector line. Looks like I am about out of reasons to think the pump is not dead huh?
DmaxMaverick
08-11-2012, 13:22
Okay Dmax, now I am confused. In order to be able to see what was going on, I used clear poly tubing on all the applications for this test. I took a marine tank and mixed three gallons of diesel with a quart of 2cycle oil twc3. I then attached it to the feed side of the lift pump via poly tubing. I then disconnected the line from the bypass valve and attached a poly tube running it to a 2 liter bottle. I then started the lift pump and got nothing in the bypass tube. The poly fuel line filled up nicely with blue fuel. I cranked over the motor but got nothing in the bypass tube. I put a poly tube on the water separator and got a good flow and blue fuel. To eliminate issues, I then took the fuel shut off solenoid off (there was fuel pressue behind it and fuel sort of gushed out) and put in one I have removed the plug from. I then cranked the motor and still got nothing out of the bypass valve. I took the bypass valve off and put a nipple in it's place. I then energized the lift pump and got bubbles and some fuel. I got a lot of air out, probably from the fuel line change. Eventually, I ended up with fuel in the line from the bypass but it wasn't near the volume that comes out the water separator. When I crank the motor I get a slow flow in the bypass tube, about one half an inch per 30 seconds of cranking. Still no start.
Actually, your fuel flow "test" sounds normal. The flow out of the bypass (return) will not be full supply flow, and is contingent upon the rotary motion of the pump, and base or wear leakage. The volume of fuel will be somewhat linear with the RPM of the pump.
Now, if you were in fact, having pressure fuel flow to the injectors, the disconnected return (bypass) line should be getting flow back from the injectors (and leaking out of the line you disconnected), and at least a similar rate as you've seen from the pump. As the injectors operate (via fuel pump pressure pulses), they will "leak" fuel back through the return lines. This is normal, and the volume will normally increase as the injectors become more worn. Once an injector becomes so worn it no longer pops at normal pump pressure, that's an indication of excess bypass to return, and the return line will show excessive flow volume.
That said, if you aren't seeing any injector return line volume, even while just cranking, the injectors aren't popping, or trying to pop, and have no pressurized fuel supply.
I think you may be correct, in that the fuel weeping during your "injector bleed" may be feedback from the pump bypass/return. This brings us back to square one, the IP isn't firing fuel to the injectors, for whatever reason. It isn't common for the pump to physically stop delivering fuel, as they normally degrade over time. Either something in the pump is physically broken, or the electronics isn't commanding fuel delivery. IE: Back to square one.
"Back to square one" I think that might be good news actually! The original problem was a dead shut off valve. After the truck was towed in, I took it off and tested it and it failed. I replaced it and I haven't been able to get the truck to start. It seems I have a fuel delivery issue.Okay, I know my grounds are good, I have three pmds, the one that is on the pump and was working until this event and two older ones that I have kept as spares (I picked up off pumps at a bone yard.) Odds are one of them is good. I do have a spare ecm I could put in but there isn't any reason to think I need to is there? What about the ops? Can I bypass that some way to make certain it isn't that? Would it throw a code? I have a remote pmd harness on, Iwill take it off and run a continuity test on each wire of the harness to make certain there isn't a short there. What else can I do?
DmaxMaverick
08-11-2012, 16:33
Well, was just having a similar conversation with a friend, with a computer (PC) issue. During a troubleshooting process, so many things were changed there's no way to know what actually worked, if it did.
A bad OPS (or fuel supply failure) won't cause a DTC.
Back to square one. Put everything back the way you found it, at the time it quit. Change one thing at a time. Begin with the free/cheap stuff.
Free = Not throwing parts in you don't already have.
Spare PMD's = Free.
PMD extension = Free (with and w/o). Try connecting the PMD(s) to the original pump harness, first.
ESS = Free to test, disable, etc. (remove the turbo inlet pipe and have a wood block, etc. handy to shut off the air, if necessary, or a fuel valve at the inlet, or both).
Spare PCM = Free.
Another thing to add to your "free" (or almost) testing process, is the fuel supply. Use an inline filter (inexpensive gas filter is OK, for testing), place it on the outlet of your marine tank, elevate the tank (about cab-roof high), prime the line, install the line to the IP inlet. This will give you a positive fuel supply, not requiring a pump, and eliminating restriction issues. Once the problem is identified, restore the original fuel supply and verify its operation. Deal with it independently, as necessary.
Charge batteries, as necessary.
Verify Glow Plugs are getting power, and getting hot. Bypass the controller, if necessary.
Each step, one at a time, in no specific order. I would start with the fuel supply (elevated tank), then work your way through the electrical, starting with the ESS.
I don't suppose there's any chance you have a blown fuse from the original failed solenoid, is there?
Good news - I think. Short story is, I got the truck started. As Dmax suggested, I went back to square one. Put the marine tank on the roof and ran a poly hose to the IP inlet (with an inline filter in between.) I then began cranking the motor watching to see if I was getting fuel flow. After four or five cycles without fuel flow, I changed PMD's on the remote harness. When neither pmd seemed to make a difference, I took the harness off and plugged the pmd that is on the side of the pump back in. I noticed fuel starting to move. After about four cycles, I began to get white smoke out the tail pipe. I charged my glow plugs (I have them on a manual cycle) and the truck started right up. SO now I need to find out if the pump is weak (I am using the thickened fuel Dmax suggested) or the pmd wasn't working properly, or I have an electrical issue. I also have the fuel shut off removed, that needs to go back on and I have an air leak in the fuel line system somewhere between the lift pump and the IP. All in all though, it was great to hear her run. I am tempted to drive her around on the farm with the tank on the roof just cause I can! Thanks to everyone on this site for the help. We live outside the city in the country. I need this 4wd if we get any snow and I have to have a pickup to haul wood (that is our primary heat source) so for us, a truck is not a luxury (even a 97) it is a neccessary tool. So you can see how important your help has been and will continue to be. Thanks for being so willing to share your knowledge and support. What would have been impossible without your help has been a learning experience. At some point, I am even going to try and change the IP, I just hope I can put it off till next spring.
it sounds like it may be that ip extension harness. Please let us know if you get it narrowed down any further.
Yep JFerg65, I will. I am going to order a new PMD so I have a known good one that I can test against. It may be a couple of weeks before I can do so but I will let everyone know the results as the truck gets put back together.
DmaxMaverick
08-13-2012, 09:15
That's great!!!
But.....SLOOOOOW down, just a bit. BEFORE you go digging for problems you may not have, leave everything JUST AS IT IS, except the fuel supply. Restore it to original, and repeat. If it runs, and continues to run when you open the water drain (T-valve near the thermostat housing), then you have a good fuel supply. Improve that later, if necessary, but for now address ONLY the problems you have. If it continues to run, and restarts after a hot shutdown (off for only 5 or so minutes), your IP is probably OK, at least for now.
Next, work your way back to a completely original setup, and address the PMD extension issue. Having a remote PMD does you no good, if the extension harness is junk. Also, you're better off using the PMD on the pump, than trying to run with one off the pump, inside the engine compartment (except for diagnostic purposes).
Keep it simple, and try (hard as it may be) to not look for problems you don't have. If you do, you'll find some, whether or not they actually exist (which is probably why this has taken so long to hear that sweet music).
Yeah, Dmax, I probably did compound my problems, so I hear ya. I plan on leaving the pmd on the pump as the controlling unit, I just want to get a spare so I have one available in the event the pump mounted one fails. It seemed like a good idea to see if the truck would run on that set up before I was sitting on the side of the road. If it did, I was going to put it back to orig and sock the remote harness and spare pmd away in the tool box for that inevitable day. I will do as suggested regarding the fuel flow test and keep my fingers crossed the IP is good. I certainly don't want to put an IP on if I don't have to (not even sure how I would pay for it!) But the help I recieved here makes it seem possible if the worst happens! Which PMD do you consider the best?
I won't start the whole thing over, you have been incredibly helpful and I don't want wear everyone else out either but I have to work on the fuel system. Even before the failed shut off solenoid I was having a fuel issue with "Silver stuff" in the fuel.Fortunately the filter is catching it. It looks like slivers of silver paint and there is quite a bit of it. I think the fuel line is coming apart. I am going to replace the tank and fuel line and be done with it. I have found a distributor that sells 12v heat cable that I am going to wrap around the fuel line for cold weather so I might as well do that while I have the bed off.
I am a fan of the flight systems PMD. You may also see them labeled D-Tech. If I'm not mistaken flight systems is the manufacturer. I have purchased several items from PMDCABLE.com and have been extremely pleased with the service. shipping is fast and prices are good as well.
It sounds like you are close to getting this resolved. I agree with DMax.... take it slow and now replace one thing at a time working backwards with the free easy stuff first.
Keep us in the loop and good luck
Just when I thought we could close this thread! I went to start the truck when I got home and nothing. It isn't pushing fuel again. I had not touched it since I turned if off this morning when it started. The only difference is that I forgot to turn off the key last night so when I got in this morning, the key had been on all night. I don't have the fuel shut off solenoid on or the glow plug controller. Is there some electronic component that would have benefited by being on that long- heating up or something? I checked the grounds and they look okay but I will clean them. Other than that, what should I try?
Not knowing what else to do, I ran the codes, I had 238,251,370,380 and 606. The metering code and PCM codes I don't recall having before. I pulled the glove box to check connections on the computer and they all seemed fine. I then cleared the codes and the truck tried to start. I then checked the computer again and it was pretty warm. That was the last time I could get it warm and the last time the truck tried to start. I put in my spare pcm (which I have never tried) and it didn't seem to make any difference. ????
a5150nut
08-13-2012, 19:53
Charge up the batteries if you left it on all nite. It can sound like it is turning over but it requires 100 rpm cranking before the computer will let things work. I have replaced what seemed like good batteries just for this.
a5150nut wrote, "charge up the batteries if you left it on all nite. It can sound like it is turning over but it requires 100 rpm cranking before the computer will let things work. I have replaced what seemed like good batteries just for this."
Great idea, will do, thanks.
DmaxMaverick
08-13-2012, 21:05
Yeah, battery voltage (mentioned 20 or 30 posts ago). Low voltage and/or slow cranking makes for an unhappy computer, and not enough RPM to start. If batteries are questionable, they are actually at the lesser of the expense scale.
Okay, it's been a while. But back at it. The good news is the truck runs - some times! The bad news is, it doesn't sometimes! With the fuel thickened and being fed from a gravity tank with no shutoff valve and back to the original FSD (pump mounted) the truck started and ran for about a minute before it shut off. Same codes as before. Truck restarted and ran until I shut it off. Hooked the fuel line back up and ran the rail pump until fuel came out the input line then put the line back on the IP. Truck started and ran (without the thickened fuel.) I let it run for about 5 minutes, shut it off and restarted it. Ran okay. Shut it off and let it sit for a bit, then it wouldn't start. Hasn't since. Not getting fuel again. Switched FSD's no difference. Not getting any white smoke out the tail pipe. Seems to be a wiring issue. Will keep you updated as the saga continues.
Update; started from the beginning again... Think I may have two problems, a fuel delivery issue (junk in the fuel) I had an issue with what appears to be silver paint in the filter. Not sure what it is. A while back, I put a new line from the lift pump to the filter and from the filter to the IP and changed the filter. Wondering if somehow I got some past the filter to the IP filter? Also I am now getting a code 335. Crank position sensor A. I don't know what that means . When I energize the frame lift pump and let it run for about 15 seconds, then manually turn on the glow plugs for 8 seconds the truck immediately tries to start. I almost does. After that it doesn't. The batteries are fully charged. I will get this solved... I will. I will. I will..What do you think Dmax?
phantom309
10-04-2012, 22:07
wiring from pmd to pump sounds suspect,.
has it got a noise filter harness on it if so unplug it and run the wires direct,.
almost like you have a worn/broken pmd wire somewhere,.
Kudo.s to you for your tenacity,.
Nick
Phantom309, that is what I have suspected his problem has been from the get go. I haven't heard or may have missed if he ever disconnected the harness from the extension to check for corrosion on the pins. You are also correct in that it could be a bad wire in the harness.
I went through this with my 96 that I don't run in the winter to keep it out of the salt. I trouble shot for days before I finally thought to check the extension harness connections. It ended up being the short harness that comes off the IP. It could also be a bad connection were that short harness attaches to the pump, two stud connections and then the ground on top of the pump. All kinds of crap can get into the valley of the motor. $40.00 later and a few hours I was back up and running. I was fortunate, other than some wasted time once the truck was towed home It was a relatively cheap fix.
Thanks guys for all the suggestions. Before I saw these I read a thread about the final screen in the inlet. I have a pump I procured from a boneyard so that I can look it over and see where things are located. I took the screen out of the inlet on the boneyard pump. I took the big screen off it to see what is under it as well. I then took the one off the IP on the truck and it looked clean. I cleaned it anyway, Including the little one on the bottom. I thought I would post pics of both so anyone with an issue there can see. I took it off with a ¾ crow foot socket. I put it all back together and it didn’t make a difference. I took the FSD extension off a while back and reconnected the harness to the FSD on the pump ( was good when I changed it) I have fuel to the IP, I have the original FSD reconnected. I have cleaned the grounds. Is there a way to test the continuity on the harness? 2263
2264
At this point I don't think I would trust the FSD on the side of the pump even though it was working when you did the relocation.
I give you a lot of credit for hanging in there with this one. I'd pull the short harness coming off the pump check for continuity/corrosion.
The worst part of these types of issues is that most of the time they end up being something pretty simple once you narrow it down.
Thanks JFerg65, I will check the connections for corrosion, it must be some kind of signal issue related to a continuity issue, I have eliminated the mechanical things, I think.
Went out today and I visually inspected three harness fittings. I took hold of them and turned them over, looking for corrosion. I then tugged on the grounds to see if any were loose from the anchor bolt. I pushed on the plug that goes into the FSD. I connected the hot wire I use to manually start the fuel pump, I lit up the glow plugs for 8 seconds and hit the key. The truck started up on the first turn. It sat and idled for about 5 minutes. It missed a few times during that time. When it did, it was a single miss and a small puff of smoke. Then, the truck died abruptly and wouldn't start again. I put the remote harness back on and an external FSD (that I THINK is good) but it isn't starting. ECM?
DmaxMaverick
10-14-2012, 19:29
How's the fuel condition? Got a full filter?
I think it's okay but since I don't know, I will change it....Thanks Dmax.
DmaxMaverick
10-20-2012, 20:16
The fuel filter is ALWAYS the first suspect. However, I meant, is the filter bowl full? If it isn't, something is preventing fuel flow at some point. IIRC, you did have some (better) success running with an external supply and gravity flow???
Yep, fuel bowl is full, and I changed the fuel filter. It started on an external "thickend" fuel but it also ran on the regular line. I have purchased another truck so the pressure is off to fix this but now I really want to figure out what is wrong. I have a bone yard pump that I use to see where things attach and how it should look. Attached is a picture of the front of the pump with the red and black wire attached. My question is this. If I take this harness off and place it on the truck in place of the one going to the pump, all the circuits will be complete with the exception of the red wire that goes to the front of the injector pump. Should I be able to detect any kind of amperage or voltage when I crank the motor?
Okay, get this. I went out today and the truck started on the first crank. It ran for three minutes and then "died like it was turned off!" So, I pulled the inlet line to make sure it was pumping fuel, it is. There isn't a fuel shut off solenoid on it at this point, I have a dummy one on. I even changed the pmd to a spare, via remote harness. I did notice that the glow plug light just flashes on and right back off with the spare pmd (and I don't know for sure it is good.) So, I took a harness off the spare pump I have and put it in but did not hook up the red and black lead the normally would go to the front of the pump. I then took the red and black leads and connected them to the corresponding leads on a meter. When the switch is turned on the meter twitches on DC current or Ohms, but I don't get any signal movment on the meter as it is cranking. Don't know if that means anything. SO, at this point, I know it is getting fuel, I have a new fuel filter in, I put two new batteries in, I have a dummy fuel shut off solenoid in and the truck occasionally starts! Oh one last thing, there is a solenoid, I think it is the oil pressure soleniod below the fuel filter in the valley and there are three wires coming out of it but it looks like there should be four.
phantom309
11-18-2012, 21:47
I did notice that the glow plug light just flashes on and right back off with the spare pmd (and I don't know for sure it is good.) So, I took a harness off the spare pump I have and put it in but did not hook .
There is a problem with the power feed to the ecm,.if you disconnect the batteries, the glow plugs cycle on and off really quickly 1st time after the batteries are reconnected,.,. The 2nd time you get a normal glow cycle,.
I can change pmd's and harness and it doesn't interrupt the power to the ecm,.
I,m wondering if you have an ignition key switch problem,.? your description of how it simply shuts off is another indication ,..when these 6.5's run out of fuel,. they stumble and miss before they quit,. just like most diesels do with fuel issues,.
Yours is a power feed problem INMHO.
Nick
Thanks Nick, it sure does seem to be electrical. It's like a connection that I need is connecting sometimes and other times not. I can see where the switch could do that. I was sitting in the truck and I may have moved the wheel as I timed how long the truck ran - that could account for the stopping I guess. Other than that, I need to find someplace that has a connection that is barely making contact and I have checked all the electrical fittings I can find.
Just wanted to thank everyone that has helped in this marathon. I haven't given up, but since the truck sits outside I am weather dependent and it has been cold! I haven't done anything on the truck except for one thing. I did send my two spare FSD's to a fellow member in Fla that put them on his remote harness to test for me. He has the exact same year and model truck. We found out that one was good and one was bad so he sent the good one back to me. At least when the weather breaks I will be able to hook up a FSD that I know is good! It feels good to know that ONE thing works anyway. I am pretty sure I have tried that already but I will do it again and if that doesn't start the truck, I am going to have to figure out how to trouible shoot the electrical signals as phantom309 suggests. My gut tells me he is right on the money. Again, I appreciate everyone's help and patience, what a journey!
Got a break in the weather, at least enough to work on it for a couple of hours. Here is the recap. I have a dummy shut off solenoid in (one that I have taken the guts out of) gone back to a tank on the top of the cab with a gravity fed line to the IP inlet. Charged up the batteries and hooked up the proven FSD on a remote harness (that I did a continuity check on) but no start. The weather is iffy for a while now so when it warms up a bit I will try again just to make sure it has cranked enough to clear any air I let in changing the lines. BUT, I am about done. I don't know what a harness for this engine would cost but that and the IP are about all I haven't changed and I am not changing the IP (just not good enough to do it.) So we are coming to an end to this saga one way or another. The next question is, what (besides what someone will pay you for it) should I expect to sell this for as a parts truck if I can't get this fixed soon? Thanks all for your patience and help.
Since you are not currently using the FSO,connect a volt meter to the leads for the FSO and watch the readings-it shares power with the PMD.
If you see 0 volts when it stalls I would concentrate on the connections of the fuel sol fuse and the ignition switch.
brumpomatic2020
10-09-2020, 15:46
Hello, I know this thread is old, what was the final solution to your problem OP?
I'm having the same or similar problem with my 99 6.5 ~214k miles, starts fine and runs fine...until sometimes, won't start or dies, then won't start. We have had this truck since 2010 but this year (2020) left me stranded a few times, had it towed to a few diesel experts, they cost a lot to diagnose, none could say for sure what the problem is.
When it won't start I notice the WTS light flashes for a second and the lift pump also runs for a second but truck will not start. If I disconnect one of the fuel lines from the injector there is no fuel coming out when spinning the starter.(when it does start WTS stays on for 5-10 seconds, I can hear the lift running and then it starts right up, runs great! fuel flows out of the T at 5-6psi)
So, this year I put in new batteries, changed the PMD (moved it to the bumper with an extension cable), tried another pmd in the bumper, (even removed the PMD extension and put a new PMD in original location next to injection pump), checked grounds in engine compartment, new fuel filter, new fuel sock, new air filter, cleaned the strainers in both fuel filter housing and injector pump, replaced the starter, replaced the OPS, fuel cutoff switch, ECT sensor, changed the fuses (ecm-I, ecm-B, etc), changed fuel pump relay, changed ignition switch, new glow plugs. No OBD-II codes.
Several times when it wouldn't start I tried disconnecting the optical fuel sensor in the injection pump, occasionally it would start in 'limp mode' (long time cranking to start, then barely runs), turn it off, plug optical sensor back in, starts like normal. Btw, with the optical fuel sensor disconnected there were 2-3 optical sensor or fuel injection timing related codes, those codes went away with the sensor connected.
People say must be the injection pump is worn out! Could be, but why does it sometimes start right up and run great... Not excited about spending any more $ on this truck to experiment, especially don't want to spend the time/$$$ on a new injection pump on a hunch.
...I read there's a piece of rubber hose behind the the fuel filter that connects the fuel filter to the steel line from the lift pump, it gets kinked then no fuel to the injection pump...I'll check that rubber fuel line. Thinking now maybe glow plug control module is bad, somehow signaling the computer to turn off the lift pump, never changed it, that would be an easy fix, perhaps that's a safety feature...also, I haven't replaced the glow plug wires, ever (just noticed the connectors are loose where they attach to the glow plugs)...I wonder if the ECM/computer is going bad or a connection to it or a bad ground someplace...Or the main fuel relay on the back of the injection pump is worn out or some part of the harness is bad/corroded?...
Want to be able to use this truck and rely on it again, it has been very good, any help would be appreciated!! OP...? Anyone...?
brumpomatic2020
10-10-2020, 04:47
I wonder if there's an air leak in the fuel supply...?
a5150nut
10-10-2020, 09:29
I wonder if there's an air leak in the fuel supply...?
put some clear line on the fuel return line to see if there are bubbles
Yukon6.2
10-10-2020, 09:47
Hi
I had a 98 that was giving me all kinds of electrical issues.
After i changed the ignition switch they went away.
From the time i got it,electrical gremlins haunted it.Went through 3 PMD's 2 were remote mounted.
This was a truck that didn't get daily use.
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