steering worse after flush

[lmholmes11]

I flushed my power steering/hydro
boost system a few weeks ago. The fluid was black and deffinately needed it. I thought it would make the steering a bit better but I am hearing and feeling more whining after I flushed. Mostly it is while turning when traveling slow (pulling out of a parking lot, etc. Did air get into the system? I never ran it too low when flushing. Will the air work itself out? Thanks guys

[DmaxMaverick]

Air should work itself out and shouldn't take too long. When I flush, I push out all the fluid, and "overrun" a bit, which forces in air a lot of the time. Never any problem doing that, and it's always bled itself. Any air will purge through the relief/return valve on the HB unit, or pass safely through the gearbox.

The flush you did may have dislodged some crud in the system, being as bad as you described. I've seen this on older trucks, and only several repeated flushes cured that. As much as 2-3 gallons over several flushes, in some cases. What fluid are you using? What was your flush procedure?

[More Power]

I'd have to re-read the procedure again, but as I recall, GM recommends putting the front of the truck on jack-stands, then start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a number of times to help bleed the PS system. Don't do this with the wheels/tires on the ground, or you could damage the tires and create unnecessary stress on the steering components.

Jim

[ToddMeister]

Make sure a high quality power steering fluid was used in the flush.

I did mine last summer, used synthetic p/s fluid (royal purple), added a p/s cooler from summit, and added a magnefine return line filter.

[lmholmes11]

Fluid type might be part of my problem I used Napa PS fluid. The flush took just about a gallon. I pressed on the brake and turned wheel 12 to 3 or so and then released brake, then repeated 12 to 9. Filled up and repeated.

[DmaxMaverick]

What method? How are you removing the old fluid?

You should use, at least, a quality fluid. I'm not familiar with the Napa stuff, so can't say. I use synthetic ATF now, and have for decades. It seems to work better than PS fluid, and I've noticed less leaks over the years with HB systems (unit and hoses).

When flushing, the steering needs to be cycled lock to lock. As Jim said, jack up the front to help with this. A little brake action helps as well. Don't worry about the air while flushing. It'll bleed out after.

[EdHale]

For those of us too lazy to look it up, how often should this flush be done? I'm sure mine is past due.

[ToddMeister]

Depending on the climate and use of the truck, I'd say every 50K to 100K this should be done.

Hotter climates closer to 50K. Cooler climates could go longer. I did mine at 75K.

There is no stock P/S cooler on these trucks, fluid can get very hot on long warm days, and cause the fluid to break down sooner.



For those of us too lazy to look it up, how often should this flush be done? I'm sure mine is past due.

[Heartbeat Hauler]

If you are using the method that attaches a hose to the return, then turn your wheel back and forth a 1/4 turn until it's pumped out, then refill and repeat.

The important part of this is the very last step. Once you hook everything back up, fill the reservoir don't put the cap on, turn your wheel right and left a 1/4 turn several time, then check the res again and fill it up.

A lotta guys will just fill up the res, hook it all back up and off they go. The res is not full at this point.

Don't ask me how I know this...:D


Also, I used the napa brand fluid which is actually Valvoline. Good fluid.

[More Power]

For those of us too lazy to look it up, how often should this flush be done? I'm sure mine is past due.

Basically, what's been discussed here is the procedure. When I assembled Lil Red, it had a new brake booster, new PS/brake hoses and an empty PS reservoir. I filled the reservoir to the full line, started the engine, and checked the level frequently while doing the steering wheel turning and pressing the brake pedal process. It was easy. Just stay ahead of a low fluid level so it doesn't run dry and push air into the system (which would just take more time to work it out).

[EdHale]

This thread reminded me to have my PS fluid changed which I had done when I had my oil/filter changed this past Friday. My old fluid wasn't that bad and I noticed absolutely zero difference in turning after the fluid change. I guess that means I had it changed soon enough??

Thanks for the reminder to do this guys.

[lmholmes11]

From what ice read some people notice a difference and some do not. Same goes for the brake pedal. My next job is to do a complete brake fluid flush since I have about 63k miles on the truck I'm assuming it has not been done yet!

[More Power]

From what ice read some people notice a difference and some do not. Same goes for the brake pedal. My next job is to do a complete brake fluid flush since I have about 63k miles on the truck I'm assuming it has not been done yet!

For brake fuild flushes, a MityVac hand operated vacuum pump works well to pull fluid out of a loosened caliper bleed valve slowly enough to allow you to keep the master cylinder reservior full. Do one caliper at a time. Once you see clear fluid in the suction line, you're ready to move on to the next caliper.

http://www.eastwood.com/mityvac-brake-bleeding-kit.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&gclid=CJ6iprfjnrECFaQaQgodXwfchQ

Jim