Do I need to surface this block and head?

[jeeper]

This is my first post here. I haven't done much engine rebuilding and have never dis-assembled a diesel before. As the title asks Is this too bad to throw back together?

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/5510/blockpits.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/blockpits.jpg/)

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8026/headpits.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/headpits.jpg/)



http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/blockpits.jpg/http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/headpits.jpg/

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

Sorry friend. Those look beyond repair. Have your machine shop look at them and decide for you. At the least, you'll need a complete head job and cylinder block bore. Pictures over the internet rarely tell the whole story, but those look bad. I wish I had better news for you. They look like they've been full of water for years.

[edit]
That piston crown looks really bad, too. Probably a glow plug tip got loose and beat on it. It's no good. Add a piston (set) to the list, as well.

[jhornsby3]

From that one picture of the head, you might be able to have it skimmed and be alright. As said above that piston and the bore looks shot.

[jeeper]

I guess I'm looking at another engine tomorrow. It's too bad this one is so bad. The webs don't look cracked at least. I guess I will keep it for parts. Thanks for the help.

[phantom309]

depending on the budget,. i,d disassemble it completely, and get everything boiled, things look much better after going through the tank,.
i can't tell about the piston its too close up of a picture for me,.
i will say i have used pistons again that have been "peppered' with schrapnel hits,. you need to look really carefully it,s not cracked at the pin hole,.
but i do tend to agree with dmax,.the block will definitely need work,
another decent running motor might be better choice,.
good luck with your project,

Nick

[Robyn]

My thoughts are as follows.

Ash can the heads.

Here is a marked up piccy.

The area where the head gasket fire ring sits has the all to common etched in groove.

The block will have to be decked tobe useable. .010" is the usual max but you can take it to .015" and get away with it. Use the Felpro thick gasket.

The nasty spots in the cylinder may be way to far to overbore and still clean.

A max rebore of .030" gives you only .015" on a side and those spots look DEEEEEEEEEEEEP.

A sleave could be done, but we are getting the $$$$$$$$ cost way out of hand at this point.

Checking for main web cracks is essential. The best way is to clean the block well with cleaner and a hot washer (cheaper at home) and then dry it good.

Warm the center webs with a propane torch in the outer bolt area, heat them one at a time until they are very hot to the touch.

Let cool and look for oily crack outline to show up running down the web in the outer hole area.

These can also crack in the register fit region. (notch where the cap sits into the block)

Cracks that are on center with the outer holes can be repaired as long as they are not deeper than the bottom of the hole.

If a crack is out of the hole and into the web, GAME OVER.

The block pictured is very likely ready to be sent to the scrapper.

The deck is probably salvagable, but the cylinders may not be worth fooling with.

Good luck with finding some good iron.

Missy

[jeeper]

Thanks for all the input. I appreciate all the help.

I am guessing after searching the net that this is what I don't want to find on my block.

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/6374/65chevydieselrebuildmag.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/65chevydieselrebuildmag.jpg/)

[Robyn]

Yup thats the stuff that YA DONT WANT TO SEE :eek:

BUTTTTTTTT a couple small cracks that do NOT go below the bottom of the hole can be repaired with the Lock and stitch "Full torque" inserts.

A crack free block is much better, but I have even taken crack free blocks and inserted them as a preventive measure.

Good luck

Missy