Pro's -- Con's of Block cement ( Hard Blok )

[sctrailrider]

I would like to hear your pro's & con's about using "Hard Blok" in the lower half of the block, in a 2005 GEP block.

High flow WP, hayden 2886 clutch, 9 blade steel fan.

New BIG griffin aluminum radiator.

NPG+ coolant will be used not water based coolant.

Synthetic oil everywhere.

2 oil coolers.

I know that new machining will be done after it has cured, so don't tell me that. ( have Kennedy 18:1 pistons on the way) so line boring & decking will be done, head stud's.

Will be used on the street and 2 water filter set ups will be used before & after the radiator to take care of loose particles, 180 temp single stat set up.

Added block strength is the reason this is considered along with a stud girdle.

I know a lot of race people use this & the NPG coolant, most of them use it in big HP motors on the street W/filtering systems, they say that most if not all the heat is in the head area and that filling the block up to the bottom of the stroke doesn't bother the heat, most even claim they see a lower heat because the water flow is much better and heat soak isn't as bad.

What do Y'all have to say ??

Fill to bottom of freeze plugs - bottom of water inlet hole - ????

Chris

[john8662]

Install splayed main caps on the bottom end of the engine, keep your original coolant flow.

You're spending money on a filtration system, the block filler, extra cooling ability, and a stud girdle system.

To me I'd do the caps. I have a machine shop in town that's done two of these for me, top notch, so I can help there.

Not sold on block filler. sorry.

I think you're thinking on the right terms, beefing up the block, because even the AMG blocks can break under more power.

[sctrailrider]

I have considered the caps when talking to John Kennedy, I have talked to all the shops in my area and they all don't want to do it and judging by there price they really really don't want to do it....... 500$ for the caps & 1500$ to have the machine work done.... I will use the girdle & cement, I am not going to be hard on my motor anyway, just tiring to get a strong foundation with out spending a ton of $$$$$.

I already know the splayed caps are the way to go, just can't break the bank to do it or I would...

[phantom309]

wash everything really good with the muriatic,.
i haven't done a 6.5,. but have done some BBC's and 1 big olds,,.
I drove the olds on the street for years with no ill effects and in my opinion it ran cooler,.
there is all kinds of pro and con arguments,. some with fact, some just drama driven,.after the hard blok has set,. just run a bottle brush in the holes to clean every thing good,.

I subscribe to the school of thought that was mentioned that less heat soak and better cooling of the heads,.
I also subscribe to aussie 6.5 tricks of drilling the fire deck for proper up and out cooling, they run these things off road in the deserts over there, and they have found the right way to keep stuff cool,.

torque the caps on before you do it,.I like to put the crank in and all torqued up before i do one,.
JM2C,
YRMV,.

Nick

[sctrailrider]

wash everything really good with the muriatic,.
i haven't done a 6.5,. but have done some BBC's and 1 big olds,,.
I drove the olds on the street for years with no ill effects and in my opinion it ran cooler,.
there is all kinds of pro and con arguments,. some with fact, some just drama driven,.after the hard blok has set,. just run a bottle brush in the holes to clean every thing good,.

I subscribe to the school of thought that was mentioned that less heat soak and better cooling of the heads,.
I also subscribe to aussie 6.5 tricks of drilling the fire deck for proper up and out cooling, they run these things off road in the deserts over there, and they have found the right way to keep stuff cool,.

torque the caps on before you do it,.I like to put the crank in and all torqued up before i do one,.
JM2C,
YRMV,.

Nick

Yea, I have done this before, just not on a 6.5, and I will tork the main caps & have the crank in it , if the crank is done being polished, but my bearings aren't here yet either, and I am not in any hurry to get the motor done, also I have a bare set of heads that I will tork down also.

The curing takes a while, so by the time the block is ready for another trip to the shop, I should have kennedy's pistons here and then the rotating assembly will be off to get balanced.

Funny thing about the balanced assy, I talked to the shop that will be doing it today and they want everything that spins, even the pressure plate and front pulley... (never had anyone balance that much before...but he said that they can balance everything back to the tranny and make it perfect, we will see).

Chris

[sctrailrider]

I also subscribe to aussie 6.5 tricks of drilling the fire deck for proper up and out cooling, they run these things off road in the deserts over there, and they have found the right way to keep stuff cool,.


More info on "aussie 6.5 trick" what are you saying????? I am always looking for info..........:confused:

[DmaxMaverick]

I also subscribe to aussie 6.5 tricks of drilling the fire deck for proper up and out cooling, they run these things off road in the deserts over there, and they have found the right way to keep stuff cool,.


More info on "aussie 6.5 trick" what are you saying????? I am always looking for info..........:confused:

This process does one thing, and does it very well. It will, in every case, significantly lower the coolant temperature indicated. Unfortunately, and usually to a very disappointing end, this isn't all it does. We've discussed this before, at great length some time ago. This, as well as the head coolant bypass kits (same result). If all you want is to see a lower indicated temperature on your gage, move the sender to the radiator outlet.

[sctrailrider]

This process does one thing, and does it very well. It will, in every case, significantly lower the coolant temperature indicated. Unfortunately, and usually to a very disappointing end, this isn't all it does. We've discussed this before, at great length some time ago. This, as well as the head coolant bypass kits (same result). If all you want is to see a lower indicated temperature on your gage, move the sender to the radiator outlet.

I just wasn't sure what he was talking about is all, I DON'T plan to do the coolant mod, I don't expect to have a over heat problem, in my build, but time will see. Myself and several others have talked about my build in length, and I am using there input in my build, and they are key consultants on this site, both the free side and the subscription side. I hope to start a build thread later after most of the work is done so that the thread doesn't get dragged out over a long time.

I will ask a moderator about the thread when the time comes.

Chris

[arveetek]

Here's the official thread on the 'bypass' cooling:

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=25230

Casey

[DmaxMaverick]

I'm sure I've posted this before, but I don't feel like digging through the posts to find it. So.....

Heat is a product of consumed energy, and can be measured absolutely by many scales (BTU, KW, Calories, etc.). During operation, an engine consumes fuel and produces heat. That heat is present, regardless of the methods of removing it. It must be removed. In most all motor vehicle engines, this is done with a liquid-air heat exchange. Before the heat can be removed from the engine, it must first be transfered to the coolant, then moved to the liquid-air heat exchanger (the radiator). Any successful method of a more efficient heat removal will (all else being equal) indicate the additional heat being removed. There are several vendors selling a bypass cooling kit, as well as available published instructions. Each I've seen has claimed immediate cooling results, by an indicated engine coolant temperature decrease. Problem is, if the cooling method were in fact more efficient, the result would indicate the exact opposite: HIGHER indicated coolant temperature. If the method was actually removing additional heat, it would be indicated by an ECT increase, not a decrease. There should also be a more active thermostat and fan clutch with an increase of coolant temperature. A decrease in indicated ECT is evidence of LESS heat actually being removed from the engine.

If your 6.5 is overheating, it needs to be fixed. Not bypassed.


The bottom line is, lower indicated (gage) temperature is good for a warm and fuzzy feeling, but little else. Lowering actual coolant temps is accomplished OUTSIDE the engine, not inside.

[Kennedy]

I don't think a short fill could hurt, but doubt it would gain you a ton either. Those who have done it would never do without splayed caps.

The Hayden clutch you mention is a STOCK calibration and will gain you nothing over a good stock clutch.

Dex Cool and distilled is all you need

Factory radiators do quite well with proper air and coolant flow.

I did a coolant filter years back that was quite simple and worked off differential pressure across the water pump. I forget exactly how I did it now, but you just need to come out of the water pump on the high side and back on the low side. At least one port was already there and dummied up as I recall.

Your planned Schoolcraft turbo steup will really help with coolant temps accordig to Ron's experience which I would trust.

[sctrailrider]

I don't think a short fill could hurt, but doubt it would gain you a ton either. Those who have done it would never do without splayed caps.

The Hayden clutch you mention is a STOCK calibration and will gain you nothing over a good stock clutch.

Dex Cool and distilled is all you need

Factory radiators do quite well with proper air and coolant flow.

I did a coolant filter years back that was quite simple and worked off differential pressure across the water pump. I forget exactly how I did it now, but you just need to come out of the water pump on the high side and back on the low side. At least one port was already there and dummied up as I recall.

Your planned Schoolcraft turbo steup will really help with coolant temps accordig to Ron's experience which I would trust.

John, I trust both you and Ron, You both are willing to answer my questions and don't push me or try and force me towards something based on money in your pocket, and to me that is worth a great deal in my world !! You both are helping me with real info, ( and you could just say NO) not just hear say type of stuff. I really wish I could afford the caps, but I just can't find the $$ for it right now, and you will be getting a order from me soon for the other stuff, and maybe a fan clutch a little later as this build is going to be a long one ( 2 months) or so for me.

I have found a shop in Mt Holly, NC, that is going to balance the rotating assy for me, I have had several sbc & bbc motors done in the far past, but this shop told me to bring everything from the front crank pulley all the way to the tranny( clutch&pressure plate & all bolts needed), never had a balance shop want everything that is turning before, but he said it would be perfect when it's done !! Hope so...

As for the cement, I have it here so I will use it, the cooling mod thing.... I am not convinced that it does anything other than make someone money... Griffin radiators are right down the road, and there price for a big aluminum piece is just a little more than a stock unit, ( my stocker is a 91 model) the race shops I talk with all use them and they make drop in fit unite that flow 2 X more area than a stock unit for around 75$ more.

Well, Thanks everyone for the info and keep it coming, I wish I could find a way to let everyone know how much it means to me.

Chris :D

[More Power]

Assuming every other component of the cooling system is up to spec, a better turbocharger will do more to lower EGT/ECT under heavy load than anything I know of.

I've only seen one 6.5L TD able to run full-pedal up a 6% grade with a 10K trailer in tow without blasting EGT and ECT. It had an intercooler, but was not using water/meth. That 6.5 was able to maintain 1250 degrees F EGT. That run was also the best 6.5 performance, in terms of speed attained, I've seen in the Pull-Off tests we've done. It was an 18:1 engine.

A modified Holset... The 6.5 doesn't have an overheating problem, necessarily. It has a turbocharger selection problem.

Jim

[sctrailrider]

Assuming every other component of the cooling system is up to spec, a better turbocharger will do more to lower EGT/ECT under heavy load than anything I know of.

I've only seen one 6.5L TD able to run full-pedal up a 6% grade with a 10K trailer in tow without blasting EGT and ECT. It had an intercooler, but was not using water/meth. That 6.5 was able to maintain 1250 degrees F EGT. That run was also the best 6.5 performance, in terms of speed attained, I've seen in the Pull-Off tests we've done.

A modified Holset... The 6.5 doesn't have an overheating problem, necessarily. It has a turbocharger selection problem.

Jim

I think, NO , I know you are right, I have a real Holset not a K/O, and I do have someone that has informed me that I chose the right one to do the best job for towing, ( I think we are talking about the same person) I was asked not to disclose any info so I will not. He is leading me in a path that so far only a few have gone and found the right combo so we will leave it at that. The company does have write ups in the paid part of this section. I am very thankful that some people are still willing to give out "secret" info for a small purchase. I like to read and gather info and make my own thoughts as to if it's good or not, I don't make comments about things I don't have first hand knowledge of..

Chris

[phantom309]

I think, [COLOR=Red]NO [COLOR=Black], I know you are right, I have a real Holset not a K/O, and I do have someone that has informed me that I chose the right one to do the best job for towing, ( I think we are talking about the same person) I was asked not to disclose any info so I will not. He is leading me in a path that so far only a few have gone and found the right combo so we will leave it at that[

Chris

why the cloak and dagger??

seems to go against the spirit of this forum,. or are we again protecting capitalism at its finest?

a simple link to raceday mechanics thread might be good,.

nick

[sctrailrider]

why the cloak and dagger??

seems to go against the spirit of this forum,. or are we again protecting capitalism at its finest?

a simple link to raceday mechanics thread might be good,.

nick

It's not raceday, and I was asked not to reveal anything as of yet, and it's not the same turbo he and most others are using. Things will be explained when my build thread starts, I'm not reinventing anything, just going to the side a little is all.

Chris

[phantom309]

It's not raceday, and I was asked not to reveal anything as of yet, and it's not the same turbo he and most others are using. Things will be explained when my build thread starts, I'm not reinventing anything, just going to the side a little is all.

Chris

My original comment still stands,.

why mention anything at all if you,ve been asked to not reveal,.?
and what is so special about the time line of waiting for you to post pictures of things you have already told us are going to transpire,.?
I believe you and i believe you will assemble your hard parts into a 6.5 engine,.
It would seem to me that as usual something is not to be revealed until it is ready for market,.just in case the masses run out and buy the super secret add on for less money, after finding out where its sourced from,.

carry on , you have a captive audience now.

Nick

[sctrailrider]

My original comment still stands,.

why mention anything at all if you,ve been asked to not reveal,.?
and what is so special about the time line of waiting for you to post pictures of things you have already told us are going to transpire,.?
I believe you and i believe you will assemble your hard parts into a 6.5 engine,.
It would seem to me that as usual something is not to be revealed until it is ready for market,.just in case the masses run out and buy the super secret add on for less money, after finding out where its sourced from,.

carry on , you have a captive audience now.

Nick
I'm NOT selling anything at all and NOT going to help sell anything that isn't all ready for sale somewhere, it is just that no one has purposed the right question to the company until I did.

A product like I will be having modified is already for sale but it is relatively unknown or not considered due to the way most 6.5 folks have thought towards these motors in the past.

Just forget about this thread and I will not post up anything else about my plans for my build.

I know that I probably shouldn't have even referenced something that will be reviled here by a company later and I am not going to continue with the back & forth comments.

I am not tiring to hide anything at all, but when a person or company is willing to help me with something that is all ready for sale but might need tweaking some and is willing to help me and all that is asked is that I don't reveal the knowledge then my word stands for that.

I'm not tiring to be a butt about this but I gave my word and I keep that.

Consider my part of this thread closed.

Chris

[DmaxMaverick]

why the cloak and dagger??

seems to go against the spirit of this forum,. or are we again protecting capitalism at its finest?

a simple link to raceday mechanics thread might be good,.

nick

This is not at all uncommon. Often it will be a product still in development, or a patent in application.

[Edahall]

Hmmm, could it be a variable vane turbocharger?

Would Hard Block lessen the chance of the cylinder walls splitting due to boring out an older 6.2 block to fit 6.5 pistons?

[Kennedy]

It's really quite simple. I made an investment in a turbocharger several years ago. I never followed through with installing it so I donated it to RJ who installed it and did all of the work including numerous changes and upgrades. He devoted the time studying maps, changing housings, and essentially customizing the turbo. For this he deserves to be rewarded.

Chris mentioned it and if someone is interested they can contact RJ to purchase one. I put Chris in touch with RJ and RJ went out of his way to put him on the right track. I'm sure sooner or later someone will buy one to R&D and tell the world or sell as their own, but until then...

[sctrailrider]

It's really quite simple. I made an investment in a turbocharger several years ago. I never followed through with installing it so I donated it to RJ who installed it and did all of the work including numerous changes and upgrades. He devoted the time studying maps, changing housings, and essentially customizing the turbo. For this he deserves to be rewarded.

Chris mentioned it and if someone is interested they can contact RJ to purchase one. I put Chris in touch with RJ and RJ went out of his way to put him on the right track. I'm sure sooner or later someone will buy one to R&D and tell the world or sell as their own, but until then...

Thanks John, you put it better put than I could, as for the R&D part, you & Ron can bet it will not be me, I don't have much, but I do have my word and I will always stand by that...

[More Power]

why the cloak and dagger??

seems to go against the spirit of this forum,. or are we again protecting capitalism at its finest?

nick

Actually, I've written extensively about the Holset HX35W (the best off-the-shelf replacement turbo for the 6.5). We have a couple of articles online right now that discusses how to make it work - and it works very well. We were the first to suggest the Holset, and the first to show a 6.5 with a Holset to the 6.5 community. Years ago....

We've also written extensively about turbochargers other than Holset, like that offered by Peninsular. Years ago... About how better turbos can improve 6.5 performance.

And, I'm working on a brand new article that explains how to produce the adapter that fits between the Holset center housing and the factory GM turbo exhaust outlet (so you can keep your existing stock/aftermarket downpipe). I spent a couple of hours last week shooting photos and making drawings of all of the related parts.

Anyone who really knows The Diesel Page knows information is what we are all about - for going on 17 years.

[sctrailrider]

Actually, I've written extensively about the Holset HX35W (the best off-the-shelf replacement turbo for the 6.5). We have a couple of articles online right now that discusses how to make it work - and it works very well. We were the first to suggest the Holset, and the first to show a 6.5 with a Holset to the 6.5 community. Years ago....

We've also written extensively about turbochargers other than Holset, like that offered by Peninsular. Years ago... About how better turbos can improve 6.5 performance.

And, I'm working on a brand new article that explains how to produce the adapter that fits between the Holset center housing and the factory GM turbo exhaust outlet (so you can keep your existing stock/aftermarket downpipe). I spent a couple of hours last week shooting photos and making drawings of all of the related parts.

Anyone who really knows The Diesel Page knows information is what we are all about - for going on 17 years.

I agree that The Diesel Page is all about info, and I do agree with this fully !!

I am new to this site, but am also on other sites where there is a lot of bickering back & forth as to what people believe or don't believe. I was told about this site and I had no second thought's about the small fee to be able to get first hand info that others have spent $$ & time in R&D and shown the results, what worked and what didn't.

With that said, John led me to someone that could answer a question better than he could, ( John could just have said - I don't know and left it at that) and also said that I may or may not get any info, I tried anyway and fully understood that I may get a flat out NO to the answer. Well the answer isn't going to be free of course, but I chose to take info from those that have proven and not just said that something is worth the price.

If I could afford it, I would have ordered a full drop in motor from someone, but I also take personnel pride in doing my own work, no one will care but me, I think I am the only 6.5 owner in the state....LOL I am doing a lot of head work on this motor myself because can and it might help or maybe not. All I want is what will do the job I need it to do and I don't really care what the naysayers might think. I'm not here to brag about something or try and have the baddest truck around, not selling anything, I just like to learn something I didn't know before.

I have seen on other sites where everyone is tiring the K/O HX40's, I happened to find one that I haven't seen anyone else try, well almost anyone, I took a chance and spent a good sum of money for my turbo with high hopes, and maybe with time, and the knowledge of a few others, I think it will be right for me.

I wish I lived closer to the people in the know with these motors, I am a old drag racer and I like to think outside of the box.

I don't mean to offend anyone with anything I say or don't say, I think any question worth asking is worth a honest answer, and on the comment from phantom309, I wasn't tiring to hide anything, just keeping my word.

I am looking forward to the write up on the HX35....

[More Power]

I agree that The Diesel Page is all about info, and I do agree with this fully !!

I have seen on other sites where everyone is tiring the K/O HX40's

I am looking forward to the write up on the HX35....

I've talked to some who are running the HX40. I don't have a problem with that, it's just that the HX40 has more capability than the 6.5 can use, and as such is slower to spool (smokey in town).

The 6.5 doesn't need more than 15-20 psi boost pressure. The HX40 can efficiently produce a lot more than that.

15-20 psi puts the HX35 right into its sweet spot on the compressor map in terms of pressures and flow rates that the 6.5 can utilize up to 3000+ rpm. Being in the center part of the compressor map island is where it needs to be, and the 35 does that marvelously well on a 6.5.

Now.... if I were building an 18:1 P400 to impress the world, I'd be tempted to run an HX40 (or twins of some sort). That engine has the strength to push the limits with an HX40 (and with supplementary fuel) farther than we've seen to date for the 6.5. The injection pumps used on the 6.5 (DS/DB/Marine) don't have the fuel delivery capability on their own to take full advantage of the HX40. On the other hand, the maximum injection rates of those pumps fit the HX35 very well, which eliminate smoke, produce cool EGTs, and better drive-ability when compared to the 40. Now, everyone has their own idea of what is good, better or best. This post outlines what I think, have seen tested and have discussed with others. And, I don't sell anything discussed here, and we don't have any paid advertisers who sell a Holset kit.

[sctrailrider]

I am looking forward to the results of the HX35 !!

[Kennedy]

The limited exposure that I have had with the HX35 (from the passengers seat of a Customer truck that I tuned) showed fast response with easily acheived high boost and even higher EGT's when towing.

[john8662]

I'll start another thread soon, but I want to do a turbo-shootout soon with an electronic 6.5 on an engine dyno.

I'll be looking at a significant amount of $ to run the engine, so I'd be looking into "donations" but I'll be willing to test a few different production type turbos on an engine with different programming.

I'm on the cusp of having a dyno-ready standalone DS4 wiring system so I can run these engines out of the truck.

The engine will be a 2004ish AMG Navistar block with splayed caps, forged crankshaft, big bolt rods, and Mahle 18.5:1 pistons with some mildly ported cylinder heads. This engine will be used for some testing before being dropped into my 1995 C2500 LD Pickup to turn it into a truck that gets me arrested on the street, and attending an annual speed event. No, the DS4 won't be permanent.

I have a few turbo's WH1C/HX35, WH1C/WH1E mixbreed, Peninsular Turbo S2E, Stock GMX for baselines, a couple different S300G's.

Game?

[turbonator]

we are game, for sure, bring it on......

[turbonator]

As you know Chris, we are filled to just below the water pump, this gives about 3" of fill and about 2" of flow below the heads. This will be our first time filling. Are using also the 5 pin girdle with studs. Have built twice now with both girdle and the by-pass cooling and were happy (warm and fuzzy I guess...LOL) with both. Will continue this route, as seems to work well for us. Seems like you might have a new turbo ? Does that mean that the one you bought might be up for sale or are you just having Ron modify it ? Hope we are not prying to too much...:D. j&j.

[colinr]

I'm building up a 6.5 for a Toyota and radiator size is a problem for cooling. I know, different cars but one thing I'm looking at is enlarging the sump, more oil helps keep things cool. Would it be cost effective or not much chop for money spent for results gained.

[sctrailrider]

As you know Chris, we are filled to just below the water pump, this gives about 3" of fill and about 2" of flow below the heads. This will be our first time filling. Are using also the 5 pin girdle with studs. Have built twice now with both girdle and the by-pass cooling and were happy (warm and fuzzy I guess...LOL) with both. Will continue this route, as seems to work well for us. Seems like you might have a new turbo ? Does that mean that the one you bought might be up for sale or are you just having Ron modify it ? Hope we are not prying to too much...:D. j&j.

Hi guys, no it's the same turbo, with Ron's touch to it. I haven't had it done yet, my build is going to take a while, a few months anyway, I am going to use JK's pistons & a girdle also, I am doing some porting on the heads now myself. When I get most of things done and in house and ready to go together I might start a build thread, not sure about that yet?? Any way you know what turbo I bought and saw the comments on the other sites about it ( Ron said I found the perfect one for towing ) so we will see what it does after Ron puts his touch to it.

[DmaxMaverick]

I'm building up a 6.5 for a Toyota and radiator size is a problem for cooling. I know, different cars but one thing I'm looking at is enlarging the sump, more oil helps keep things cool. Would it be cost effective or not much chop for money spent for results gained.

Increased oil capacity, large external oil cooler, and greater sump surface area will go a long way to help control temps. Oil is significantly less efficient than water/coolant for transferring heat, but any little bit will help. I would definitely consider NPG and a zero pressure cooling system, too.

[phantom309]

Added oil capacity is a good thing,. seems the 6.5 has a small amount of sump oil compared to other diesels in its class,.

I would think increased oil capacity would be best utiized for cooling with a squirt block,.especially in conjunction with a more efficient than stock oil cooler

I personally think hard block plus a girdle might be overkill for the levels of horsepower attainable with the precup head design.
jmho



The limited exposure that I have had with the HX35 (from the passengers seat of a Customer truck that I tuned) showed fast response with easily acheived high boost and even higher EGT's when towing.

So again the HX35 is a good turbo for everyday grocery getters, but not for heavy work?




Nick

[DmaxMaverick]

Added oil capacity is a good thing,. seems the 6.5 has a small amount of sump oil compared to other diesels in its class,.

I would think increased oil capacity would be best utiized for cooling with a squirt block,.especially in conjunction with a more efficient than stock oil cooler

I personally think hard block plus a girdle might be overkill for the levels of horsepower attainable with the precup head design.
jmho




So again the HX35 is a good turbo for everyday grocery getters, but not for heavy work?




Nick

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say I think John typo'd. It should be lower EGT's, and/or greater control of EGT's. It is in comparison to OEM, and other non-OEM options. The OEM's (GM-x) spool fastest, but don't have the higher demand or top end capacity. The opposite is true for larger turbines. Single turbo selection leaves us with these options. Short of a dual, parallel system, you have to pick one end of the spectrum.

[sctrailrider]

[QUOTE=phantom 309;289193]Added oil capacity is a good thing,. seems the 6.5 has a small amount of sump oil compared to other diesels in its class,.

I would think increased oil capacity would be best utiized for cooling with a squirt block,.especially in conjunction with a more efficient than stock oil cooler

I personally think hard block plus a girdle might be overkill for the levels of horsepower attainable with the precup head design.

You might be right and I have considered not using the girdle, haven't bought it yet so I am undecided, it couldn't hurt anything having it.
Splayed caps would be the way to go, but i can't do that much due to the cost of getting machine work done anywhere around here...

And as for the oil...YES the more you have and can cool it more over stock the better..

[More Power]

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say I think John typo'd. It should be lower EGT's, and/or greater control of EGT's. It is in comparison to OEM, and other non-OEM options. The OEM's (GM-x) spool fastest, but don't have the higher demand or top end capacity. The opposite is true for larger turbines. Single turbo selection leaves us with these options. Short of a dual, parallel system, you have to pick one end of the spectrum.


JK will likely clarify, but I agree it appears to be a typo. One just needs to look at the compressor maps for both the GM-8 & HX35W to see which is more efficient at higher boost levels and flow rates. Also, the larger HX exhaust housing and diameter of the HX turbine are indicators as well.