Newbie Question: Oil and Fuel Filter Changes? [Archive]

DmaxMaverick

02-10-2012, 13:01

Oil changes are straight forward, and not any different than other vehicles, other than oil quantity. The sump capacity is 10 qts. Drain it completely and add 10. Start and idle the engine long enough to warm and circulate the new oil (5 minutes or so), then shut down. Wait 10-15 minutes and check the level. The level on the dipstick you see will be the "full" or ideal level (regardless of how it compares to anything else). Dipstick lengths and checking methods vary, but the sump is 10 qts. Unless it has a dent in it, that will be the actual and correct level. The only drawback to DIY changes is waste disposal. I've changed 1,000's, but don't anymore. It's inexpensive to have a good shop do it (with my own oil/filter), and they manage the disposal. DON'T go to a "Jiffy Lube" or such, unless you have a lawyer handy. They screw these up as often as not.

Fuel filters are a little different than others, but not difficult. If you intend to do your own every time, I suggest investing in a GOOD WIF sensor wrench (www.kennedydiesel.com (http://www.kennedydiesel.com)). A little costly, but well worth it. A new WIF sensor (if it's damaged during R/R) will cost as much as several wrenches. A good strap wrench can help with stubborn filter removal.

Remember a few things, and it'll become old-hat:

Account for your seals....There are 3, and all should be attached to the filter element at the time of removal or replacement.

WIF O-ring. Thread off the sensor and replace the O-ring with new, supplied with new filter. Lube the O-ring (engine oil, etc.) and tighten snug. Over-tightening will damage it, under-tightening will result in a leak. Be sure to disconnect the WIF wire harness connector before you start the service, and reconnect after your are done (keep it clear of tools, and don't strain it). If you forget about it, it is easily damaged, and usually only repaired with sensor replacement. The WIF sensor also includes the water/debris drain valve. There is a nipple on the valve that will accept a 1/4" hose, if you want. Once you have filter access, place a suitable container below the filter (1 qt. or larger), open the valve 2-3 full turns, open the air bleed screw (on top of the filter, about 1-2 turns), and allow the filter to drain. This will help the job to be less messy. If fuel doesn't flow right away, the valve may be clogged. Close the air bleed screw and pump the primer a few times, and it should clear the obstruction (open the air bleed screw and allow it to drain on its own). Be careful with the air bleed screw.... It's plastic and easily damaged. You should only use a nut driver on it, and never tighten it more than hand-snug. It is O-ring sealed, and doesn't take much. Metal screws can be sourced from a couple TDP Supporters (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm) for not much $.

Filter element nipple grommet. It should be attached to the new filter, in the hole that engages the filter assy nipple. Account for the old grommet when you remove the old filter. If it isn't in the old filter, remove it from the filter assy nipple. 2 of them will not fit. If you don't find it, and are sure you didn't drop it, your previous service omitted it, and you've been passing dirty fuel through your system. Bad Ju-Ju (Cross your fingers, as there's nothing you can do about it now. Take pictures and document it with a witness. If you have a pump or injector failure at some time in the near future, you may be able recover the loss from the previous service shop). Lube the inner sealing surface prior to installation.

Filter element O-ring (large). Also included with the new filter. This can be tricky, keeping it in place during install. They can dislodge while tightening, which will leak. I fill the groove with heavy grease (wheel bearing, etc.) and press the O-ring in. This keeps it in place during install. Make sure the O-ring is well lubed during install, which will also aid removal the next time.

The easiest method, by far, is to remove the front passenger wheel (after setting the E-brake and properly supporting the vehicle), and remove the fender liner (more on that, if you don't know how). This is a simple step, comparatively, and will allow the best view and access to the filter. There are other ways to do it, but I suggest starting with this, and tailor it to your abilities as you can in the future. This will also give you a good view of other components for future reference, if the need arises (glow plugs, CAC plumbing, etc).

Procedure:

Disconnect the WIF sensor harness. The connector is located a few inches from the sensor.

Drain the old filter.

Remove the old filter element. You should be able to grasp it and rotate. It's RH thread, but upside down, so rotate it CW (looking down from the top). If it won't move, you'll have to use a strap wrench or similar. They can tighten over time, due to temperature changes and dry O-rings.

Remove the WIF sensor and replace/lube the O-ring with the new one supplied. Install the WIF sensor (lube the threads with a little oil) on the new filter element and tighten it with the wrench. Do not over-tighten, as you can crack the plastic or strip the threads or damage the flats.

Install the large O-ring, well lubed, onto the new filter. Make sure it stays in place before you start the install. Lube the nipple grommet. Start the new filter by carefully moving into place and engaging the nipple (it will slide up a bit before engaging the threads). Prevent bumping anything while doing this, as the large O-ring can become dislodged. Slowly push up and thread the element onto the filter assy, watching the gap for the large O-ring. If it dislodges, back off and position it correctly, and continue. Once the filter is fully engaged, there should be only the slightest gap between it and the filter assy. Tighten it by hand, as tight as you can. Clean filter and hands helps.

Be sure the water drain valve is closed, hand tight (also O-ring sealed). Open the air bleed screw at the top a couple turns, and pump the primer until clear fuel comes out. This can take 50-100 pump cycles. Keep going until fuel appears. Close the air bleed screw and pump the primer until it is very hard (should only be a few pumps). Check for leaks, then wait about 10 minutes and check again. Pump the primer again (should still be hard) to ensure pressure hasn't dropped, which may indicate a leak.

Clean up and collect tools from the area. Start the engine. It should start normally and continue to run. If it runs for a bit (20-60 seconds), then dies, there was an air-slug in the system. Pump the primer again until hard, and start again. It should continue to run normally.

Repeat as necessary, but if it won't continue to run normally after a few attempts, you have a significant air leak, usually the large O-ring, but can be a defective filter element (if it's plastic), the filter didn't fully engage, and/or you left the old nipple grommet in. Usually, loosening the filter a couple turns, inspecting the large O-ring and re-tightening is all that's necessary. If the large O-ring became dislodged, there's a good chance it was damaged. If it is, inspect the old large O-ring for damage and repeat the install with it. Sometimes, new O-rings won't stay in place, no matter what you do. I've had this happen twice, on mine, and a friend's truck. The old O-ring, if undamaged, should be more cooperative.

If no leaks and it runs normally, replace the fender liner and wheel. If you damage or lose the liner fasteners, they can be had at Autozone and other parts stores. If you spilled fuel onto the frame, spray it down with some soap/water and rinse well with water. The fuel will dissolve the frame coating after a time, exposing bare steel to the elements (read: rust).

Don't let this long description scare you. It isn't as bad as it sounds, as long as you pay attention to the key points. After you've done one, later changes will be a cake-walk. Good luck.