new to here and new to diesel!

[emtmark]

This from the photo thread "Just did a straight across trade for my new to me GMC K3500 SRW CC LB, 6.5 TD 4L80E. Ive worked on gassers my whole life super brand new to the diesel scene. Ive lurked about for a few days researching stuff here and on Pirate but if i'm going to learn anything i'm going to have to search and ask questions. I see that cooling and PMD moving is pretty much the name of the game. I don't know what has been done to my engine yet nor am I sure that the claims of "Rebuilt 50k ago" are true. The facts, i have a clattering sound from the right rear top and bottom, the fuel pump on the engine looks brand new "Stanadyne" is on a bright blue name plate, Trans has 1,2,3 no od i can get up to 55 but no faster, light greyish/white smoke on idle with darker puff on throttle, what appears to be motor oil is leaking from the bottom left of radiator, turbo has visible exhaust gasses puff out around it on throttle.
Eng has oe air box, oe exhaust, oe fan. there is a missing bolt near top of water pump as it the gasket and threaded hole is there but the water pume mounted does not have a corresponding bolt hole not broken or missing just not cast in there. Some of the accessories look mickey moused on with nuts as spacers ant the light but the belt runs true to my eye. the outer harmonic balancer(lots of rubber and serp pulley) has cracking that i can make worse by hand, unk condition of inner. Clacking noise is present with and without belt on. Ive never dealt with injection before hesitant to start messing around just yet.
Going to get a book, watch some vids, read alot here. Thank you for the support and help you provide us folks who have to do the work ourself :) i'm in south bay area if anybody wants to saunter by and point out obvious stuff i'm never in the mood to not learn things. Have a great day yall!
mark"

Went out to investigate the rattling some more and have developed a list of questions. If I may....

Would I be able to tell if previous owner upgraded the cooling, pump, 97 intake? If so how? does anyone have pix of a before and after? Do I need to buy an expensive kit or can I go junkyard diving and make my own?

The fabled PMD Relocation that I read about? I have a 93 which is mechanical injection so I don't have a PMD? yes>no?

Oil Coming from the radiator area has been seen most in presence of two lines? These are Engine Oil cooling lines? and Leak all the time, break all the time, should be fixed asap?

The clattering (i'm positive is not a rod knock) could be injectors (irregular gets regular with increased rpm and goes away during decel), loose rocker, bent push rod, loose something. Per previous owner who replaced "Fuel Pump" the clattering started then after pump was installed by unk mechanic and was driven from Oakley to Hollister with no problems other than no OD. (IE it diddn't blow up.... yet).

The Light white smoke at idle warm or cold with darker plume with accel is: not a worry thats a diesel for ya? OH HELL ITS GONNA BLOW? Over fueling which brings what sort of danger and how do I fix that?

Its a long list of things but i'm only off until the 20th for newborn and only get about 2 hrs aday to work on it. Id prefer to spin my wheels as little as possible :) Ive got pix on iphone and video i can email i can take video upon request! nothing kinky, I'd have to charge you fine folk and who really wants to see a fat medic dance anyways :thumbdown: lol

thank you all for being a resource to all us folks who simply cannot afford a repair shop, take pride in doing it ourselves and would rather spend money buying more tools to fix our **** and that of our friends!

Regards and have a great day!
mark
ps i know my grammar and lowercase I's are infuriating, I'll do my best, I'm still rebelling against grade school I guess.

[emtmark]

Forgot to ask, are all 6.5 diesel oil pans the same? Huge dent in mine want to replace it to make me and the engine feel better. Like to go dumpster diving at a pick n pull for the cheap factor. Heck what else should i look for at the junkyard? whats the dish on parts I should keep on hand?
thanks again mark

[DaveBr]

Welcome to the page.
93 is mechanical pump and injection so no PMD required. It is common to have a cold diesel smoke on start up but not idling warm. You say you hear a knocking that may be an injector. This may be why you are blowing white at an idle. A bad injector pee's in stead of spraying. White smoke is associated with unburnt fuel. If injector pump has been changed you may have to set injector timing.
As it is new to you monitor your coolant level and oil consumption to be sure things are good.
The oil lines to the cooler have a history of wearing and leaking. Many a 6.5 has died from leaky oil lines that finally rupture and spill their guts.
You can get braided lines in a kit from vendors on this site.

Good luck

[emtmark]

Noted and thank you, the oil lines will move up my list of fixes. No PMD check and phew I can stop looking with the confirmation. Timing the engine? I am used to spark plugs with regards to timing, the timing of this engine is in related to the pulse of the pump causing injector to fire>?

[Burning Oil]

I have engine oil cooler hose kits that allow you to reuse your stock cooler and save you some money as opposed to buying a kit with a new cooler also. I have the full kits too. Check my web site, Ive added some new things recently.

[emtmark]

as stated above i'm preeeety new to the whoe dieselt thing. Eyeballing what i think is the oil cooler I see crimped hoses at the cooler? how does your kit connect to those? would i have to cut the swaged section and fasten to the smooth pipes coming out of the factory oil cooler?

[Burning Oil]

My hose kit will replace everything all the way up to the cooler. No cutting or rigging. You have a 93 4x4 so you would need the 1992-1996 kit and the oring kit for 1992-1995.
If you do buy a kit please remember to use a back up wrench on the cooler to avoid twisting/breaking the cooler.

[emtmark]

things i got done today! Tried to inspect torque converter bolts via inspection plate. However could not remove exhaust from driver to pass side (cross pipe?) as one bolt was there til death. PB and massaging got the rest out (back in with liberal anti sieze) but right side top was STUCK. Were talkin 1/2 in on a longer ratchet stuck. I diddn't feel like playing get the broken bolt out today. second thing, got the shot crank serp pulley/dampener changed out! The harmonic looked new no wiggle so I left it alone. Tossed the belt back on and fired it up! Clattering still there, dam it. Buddy of mine who works on these fairly often stopped buy and prounouced the clatter a collapsed lifter. Booked out at 7.3 hrs for trained mech. Booooooooo Can be done without pulling heads (per alldata at said buddy's friend at a shop) YAYYYYYY. Lifters 14$ each at rock auto. I'm not convinced Id like to do the crack the lines bit on the injectors. Reading up about it (Chiltons series of truck and diesel tech manuals respectively) makes getting to the injectors easy. Looking at it makes me cross eyed. Left bank easy heck i can see them. Right side :eek:. so questions, Can i do crack open test without turbo on or running? IS it possible? Rebuild or new injectors? If so anybody local to the bay area that could do rebuilds with reliabilty for like 20-25 and injector? Am I crazy for hoping that? I see the lifter R&R getting balls deep in the engine as far as moving tons of stuff. Id like to rule out the injectors as the source of the clatter. My hesitation of the diagnosis of the lifter is not from lack of confidence in my buddy just the 20 or so videos ive watched now on youtube referencing "injector knock" It sounds and acts identical. Its easier to swap injectors or pull mail off and reinstall than pulling valve train apart to swap lifters.
Saw leaking fuel under drivers door found Lift Pump? spliced it with dam spring hose clamps aaaaarrrrggghhhh those never work! Checked the book its not oem looking, have a pic or can get a pic to see what it should look like?! I will try to unFu*K this so I'm not pumping fuel on the ground drips at a time. Working my way back the same hack bypassed the tank switch. unk were to get a new one. I have a pic of it I can email its on my Iphone. The bypass consists of the hoses removed from the switch and plumbed together with a T union. the third nipple having been capped with a rubber vacum cap and zip tied :confused: WTF! Both tanks are full too!
Big plus I took the opertunity to try the 4x4 out, all wheels turn, and i seem to have low range and some sort of LSD or Locker in rear!

thats all for today,
questions I will answer as soon as I can. If you know answers to any of mine or even toss some search keywords out i'll do the leg work. Little by little i'm getting sorted out.
Priority list
Eliminate clattering engine
fix oil cooling lines
explore the no overdrive situation
alignment (hard pull to right with horrible tire wear)
upgrade cooling as possible with funds available



Side notes....Book says 7 qts of oil in the motor? seemed a little to small of a volume. also oil noted to have sweet aroma we both suspect sombody added marvel or atf to try and fix a suspected lifter issue (clearly diddn't work). Will the multigrade costco chevron diesel oil for like 14 a gal work for the shorty oil swap? Filter appearst to be mounted over the IFS! would love to get the relocation kit but don't have the money. Also would like to get that hose kit for the oil cooler, dont have the money....yet. lol

Things i'm thinking about, can I source the composite fan out of a junkyard and bolt it up myself or do I really need to buy the 199$ version? Same as the 97' cooling housing? I'm going for reliability and MPG no blowing coal (I know what that is now :D) for me. Will admit it does look neat!

[Burning Oil]

So you have a Cab & chassi truck? Take some time and fill out your signature.

Turbo or intake does not need to be on the engine to run, just make sure nothing can be sucked into the engine.

[a5150nut]

Mark,

Access to right bank is through the right fender well. Remove rubber splash guard and right front wheel. DON'T RUN WITH OPEN INTAKE!!!!! Something will find its way in and it's all over sept the shouting.

[emtmark]

ok, near as i can figure, start the truck let it idle, reach in and loosen the injector feed line from the IP. listen for the clacking to either go away or not, move to next injector and so on. Do I need to have a hold of the injector body when i do this or are they in there good enough to stick without holding on to it (much easier to screw around with one hand vs. two in the same hole. if the clacking goes away injectors it is. if it doesent well then its on to pulling valve covers and looking at valve train.....:(

[DmaxMaverick]

The injector shouldn't turn while you are loosening only the line nut, but that doesn't mean it won't. If that happens, and you don't notice it right away, you'll twist off a line. I suggest using a wrench on the injector upper when loosening the nut.

Listen for a change. If there is NO change, that injector is dead (not passing fuel). There should be a noticeable miss when you loosen a good injector (like pulling a plug wire on a gasser). If you loosen one, and the knock stops, that injector is bad. I always recommending removing that injector and swapping it with one from the other bank, then repeating the test. This will eliminate combustion chamber, piston, wrist pin, rod or valve train possibilities for that cylinder. If the knock follows the injector, the injector is bad. If the knock stays with the cylinder, then the problem is with that cylinder's components.

[phantom309]

These motors lose the nylon buttons on the rocker shafts, which will let the rocker come off the pushrod,.then it'll usually have a dead miss,. quiet if its intake,. and apopping sort of noise if its exhaust,.
Is yours still firing on all 8?

Nick

[emtmark]

I truly do not know, very light gray smoke at idle, irregular clacking or tapping sound at idle starting 20-50 seconds after start up. Becomes regular with increasing rpm and fades out when rpms fall after let off of pedal.

Things accomplished today
the good I now know how heavy a turbo is, know better how it works because i pulled it off and played around with it. Fenders down, I know people can access the injectors with everything in (dammed If I could figure it out lol) but if i'm going to horse around in little tiny dark spaces I might as well see where by bloods going after I poke and burn myself alot. :D Talked with 5150 guy on the phone, I'm a real person and not a troll! Whew, I was worried Ive been under this bridge for a while now, still don't like people...........or punctuation............please don't hold it against me, lol:rolleyes:. I found two small short section of hoses that dropped out when the fender came down:eek: matched the injector fuel return line from the left bank !!:eek::eek: and after I figured out how to get the lower heat shield off (just pull hard duh, I looked for a while for fasteners:o) was relieved to see all return lines in place, panic reset for later issues. The bad some jack wagon who was there before me ripped the stud out of the turbo and when he re inFu*(ed it back on to the manifold air gunned a 3/8 bolt through the bottom into the casting on the turbo. Id like to replace the stud if I can. Time to learn how to tap mark cause I'm not putting it back like that:mad:. The Cavalry is coming down saturday to remove and replace lifters examine drive train and possibly lower end of motor. All guys who have somthing better to do on a weekend but great friends helping out the idiot. As much as I think I could help I'm going to end up the shop bitch running tools and watching. They all know what their doing and I would really just be in the way :(. I will get to watch for next time if there is a next time. The injectors Id still like to test myself however maybe save them all a trip down and me some money, Lifters are 180$ and I cant find a place to rebuild my injectors for less than a set on Elame auction site of shame. while looking at my new naked pass side I think my face will be right over the open exaust. Its cold out in the driveway, wet somtimes too but I doubt Ill be able to hang out there for more than a few seconds trying to loosen an injector line. Not to mention the NOISE! Will attempting this still serve to diagnose bad injector vs valvetrain/block noise? Or will my neighbors end up diving for cover with a machine gun noise out front?

[emtmark]

follow up, how would i know if there was a miss? vibration? stumble?:confused:

[DmaxMaverick]

Still trying to make sense of what you are trying to accomplish.

Note: 99.9% of all lifter complaints and replacements are misplaced (and wasted time, money and effort).

They are easy to diagnose on a gasser, but not so on a Diesel, and very rarely ever fail. You are more likely to have a broken valve spring, bent pushrod or broken rocker button. If it's a knock or rattle you are chasing, the usual suspect is injector(s). If they are well used (100K+ miles), they are suspect.

[emtmark]

list of things to accomplish
chase down the rattle
saturday is valve cover off day with that in mind lifters and rocker buttons have been ordered. I do under stand that all componets are suspect. However I only have enought to pre order one set of stuff and that was decided when my buddy shawn a diesel tech swung by and took a listen.
Id like to eliminate injectors as culprit by doing the crack the line routine but ran out of time today.
I got some Delo 15-40, tapped in a new stud to the turbo (personal victory for me as previous attempts at tapping (all 2 of them) did not go well), got cleaning chemicals and drip pans ready for work day.
If I cant get injectors tested by sat or don't feel like i did it right and cannot excluded them and culprit we will test them again, together, to rule in or rule out involvement. We don't want to have to go chasing lifters as the noise but are planning on pulling everything (as much as we can) while the valve covers are off. A broken spring could totally be the culprit, or even a loose head shield lol. I'm just running down things one at a time and taking as much advice before making decisions. I'm looking forward to sat as both Shawn and his dad Jim are going to be here. Ive learned pretty much everything from Jim a 40 year plus mechanic and owner of his own shop and Shawn his son is a fantastic tech/friend.
Things to aquire, Right Stuff form a gasket, new intake gasket, turbo to manifold gasket** Counter guy couldn't tell me if they had one at the kragens anybody have a source for those?**, oil filter whats good for the money? I have autozone and Kragens in town, the napa does mostly ag equipment and Gilroy is about a 20 min drive for bigger selections ie walmart and a bigger napa.

With regards to the injector testing I am fairly trepedatious about the procedure having not ever done one before but hope to have the time and the sack to do it tomorrow. Hope i'm still feeling good about my stud fixing victory!
I have pics and vids i can send from my phone If anyone would like to see/hear things and offer wisdom. I can also take requests for specific pix to look better at a fitting or somthing.
Interior I have noted the headlight switch appears broken or loose in its fitting to the inboard side ill be looking for one in a junkyard soon as the rest of the stuff is done

dang it got off list
priorites
engine clatter
trans no OD issue
oil cooler
misc oil leaks

alignment

nice to do but not critical to driving
fix the lame baja prerunner kit to a level normal truck again, maybe a 3 inch cheapie lift to clear slightly taller tires

thats all for now markie

[DmaxMaverick]

Your "friend", the Diesel guy, is either a way better guesser than me, or will find difficulty finding his butt with both hands. Diagnosing noises on a Diesel engine is a long, top-down list, and lifters are at the very bottom. Period, plain and simple. I/we've been doing this for decades. How long have you?

If you don't run the injector test (or just replace the damn things), the rest is pointless. Start at the top of the list of usual suspects, or all bets are off, and you'll essentially be on your own.

Replacing lifters only because they are less expensive is like looking for something in a convenient place, even though you know you didn't lose it there. You'll get a short lived warm and fuzzy feeling, but you won't find what you are looking for.

Your problem may very well be a lifter, but it is far removed from the long list of much more likely suspects. Checking the injectors, for example, is free, and you don't have to pull the valve covers (or anything else) to do it. Add to that.... While the lifters can be R/R'd with only the VC's removed, it's no picnic. Unless you have a special tool (acquired or mfg'd), it'll be near an impossibility. Good luck is the best I can offer.

[emtmark]

Your "friend", the Diesel guy, is either a way better guesser than me, or will find difficulty finding his butt with both hands. Ouch! sarcastic, undignified, antaganistic. Slamming a guy you don't know is not what I expected. He is my friend and I trust him as such better or worse, I don't think i'd ever impune you or your friends in such a manner.
Diagnosing noises on a Diesel engine is a long, top-down list, and lifters are at the very bottom /Good to know/. Period, plain and simple. I/we've been doing this for decades. How long have you? /about 3 to 5 days :D and learning all the time lol. You started learning somwhere too i'll wager./

If you don't run the injector test /We will before we pull covers/ (or just replace the damn things/probably will end up doing it/), the rest is pointless. Start at the top of the list of usual suspects, or all bets are off, and you'll essentially be on your own.
/sorry to hear that:( i would hope that it is frustration talking, there is alot of usefull information here but i'm not looking to ruffle feathers or get folks all in an uproar. I will cease posting if the administration would rather I not. Please advise if I am misreading the inference there. I chose to register with this forum because It had lots of good threads with real information in them free of the usual crud of cummins this and powerstroke is better. A place where I could relay my experiances learn about what might be around the corner what steps I should take to prepare for dealing with somthing. I complile information make decisions based on my needs, economic situation, and expectations to accomplish my goal of having a running truck. I'm not even trying to argue with you, at all. i know you and every one else thinks its an injector and I really hope it is too. I only have one day with people who can help me and I'm planning for the worse hoping for the best. My friend Shawn has done nothing but work on all forms of conveyance at his dads, his own, and at every other shop he has been to. He has stood here in my driveway and listened to this noise. Your years say injector his ears say lifter. They will both be addressed and looking over the valve train really isn't a bad idea even if just to learn where your standing in terms of engine health.
I work on gas stuff and people. To tell you the truth i'd rather stuff tubes down throats do a little cpr start an iv or two push some drugs and work a full arrest in the rain on the side of highway 25 than get nuts deep in that 6.5. I just want to fix it and learn about my engine in the process. Its a win any direction because I want to learn about this engine and its various noises so if there is a next time I can do it myself:D

Replacing lifters only because they are less expensive/ nope hardest to source, and I only have enough money to order one set of somthing in preperation. I get paid friday and injectors are cheaper in stock at the local kragen may not be up to the standard of the wise but I don't have to wait to get them IF I need them / is like looking for something in a convenient place, even though you know you didn't lose it there. You'll get a short lived warm and fuzzy feeling, but you won't find what you are looking for. gosh i hope not lifters will be a pain in the neck!

Your problem may very well be a lifter, /could be just about anything :D/ but it is far removed from the long list of much more likely suspects. Checking the injectors, for example, is free, and you don't have to pull the valve covers (or anything else) to do it. For a seasoned vet with decades of experiance and tools galore I don't doubt it! I am not that , without that, and a good assortment but not all of them, can you really ever have too many tools...... i digress. Add to that.... While the lifters can be R/R'd with only the VC's removed, it's no picnic /I am making elk burgers for lunch and a salmon dinner/. Unless you have a special tool (acquired or mfg'd/ On the way! from summit/), it'll be near an impossibility. Good luck is the best I can offer. Thank you! I really hope you weren't telling me to move on down the road. Id like to think you might even share tips and tricks as I enjoy working on this beast as much as it terrifies me. I'm going to try and test injectors tomorrow. thats the plan and as long as i don't screw anything else up and the noise is still there despite the injector test, valve cover party at my house!:)

[DmaxMaverick]

No. Not at all suggesting you move on. Just relating a trend. When others in similar situations to yours have come around (actually most of the new members here), asked for advice of the experienced, then disregarded sound (and proven) advice in pursuit of much less common causes, the experienced tend to stop the advice, and the experienced participation falls off. I have more patience than most, so I tend to be a bit more persistent (perhaps to a fault). I'm not saying we are always right, just right a lot more often than wrong. We have a lot of time and effort invested in documented diagnostics, here and in publication available at the subscriber's site (http://www.thedieselpage.com/books.htm). It is very rare for someone to show up with a problem we haven't seen and hashed out before.

I'll repeat...... Most knock/rattle diagnostics are simple and free, only requiring some time. If you abandon a test, for example, because you can't access due to rusted bolts/nuts, and move on, you've skipped a very important part of the process, and may have moved right past the cause. In your case, skipping a simple flex plate / torque converter check because you can't get the pipe off. The seized studs will have to be addressed at some point, and they don't usually heal themselves. Cracked flex plates and loose bolts are quite common, and the noise they create can be very misleading. Most of us, you and them get into these projects, working on a strict budget (for various reasons), having only time to invest freely. Skipping the simple, free, and often the most common causes, is throwing good money out for bad. In the end, they are hard learned (and expensive) lessons. Most of the experienced advice you'll get around here was earned, the hard way. Learn from our mistakes, which seems to be the one thing in abundance. Once you work through this project, and others later, you'll be among "the experienced" before you know it.

[emtmark]

I deeply appreciate all the advice given here. Thank you for allowing me to ask my questions, make my mistakes and listen to my cries of victory when its all done and running. I look forward to sharing what I do and what I find along the way. I'm fixing my truck and posting here so that, indeed, others may learn from me as I have from you.:D
regards markie
todays update
none, :( time went fast and I had many other things to do, sooooooo I'll motivate for tomorrow! gnight everybody!

[phantom309]

I truly do not know, very light gray smoke at idle, irregular clacking or tapping sound at idle starting 20-50 seconds after start up. Becomes regular with increasing rpm and fades out when rpms fall after let off of pedal.

well after reading the noise isn't constant i rule out lifters etc,.if a lifter fails it fails period, i got lucky 1 time unsticking a dodge lifter with the rubber mallet trick,.but never again,.

i,d be looking at a cracked flex plate next,..
Nick

[emtmark]

Got off to a rousing start of rain...............I'm working in my driveway............it was wet and sucked. Turbo went back on to run engine one last time and get everybody dialed in on where the clackity clackity was coming from. Then Injectors checked, all cracked to point of failure and no change in noise :( Injectors pulled anti seize looks to be not that old but who knows. number 4 injector wet with fuel.. hmmmmm....injector body looks good nozzle isn't pointy and sorta banged up compared to 2 and 6. Looking through number 4 injector hole an absence of number 4 glow plug noted :eek: there is a pretty shiny circle noted on top of piston though and we cannot locate glow plug fragments in the cyl. :eek:Unk at this time how much if any damage to piston, valve, push rod etc is/has occured. Valve covers off and all looks good no obvious issues and things all in their places no crazy sludgy oil build up nor chunks of badness anywhere. Heads off, back right bank head bolt broke my socket:mad: but thats a seperate story:rolleyes:, Piston looks ok, no obvious damage to top of piston or wall in fact the cross hatching is still visible and over heat tab is still on head. Lifters pulled no obvious issues there, lifters dissasembled and oil passages are clear with no debris noted. Push rods roll flat no damage evident. Number 4 valves keepers knocked off to inspect valves seats springs keepers etc. No obvious issues there, seats mirror finish, not obvious three angles, I don't know if diesels even have those but nobody else through a flag about it. Valves felt a little concave on the sealing edge but i'm no machine shop nor do I make my living eyeballing precision edges so no whoop. No wobble in the guide and cups all in place with out obvious damage. Cyl surface is clean and smooth, valve has no chips dents or galling noted. Exhaust and intake passages free of debris to visual inspection. piston surface is smooth with comprable carbon deposits, unk where the circulart marks came from as valve seats fine to our eye. other pistons have lighter markings as well? Maybe some sort of additive at work?

Day ends with both heads off and to machine shop for inspection and or refurb. Lifters may not be the reason for the season but I have all new ones here and why not right:rolleyes:, injectors will all get replaced, heads will get broke down further, cleaned, inspected, and brought back next sat. all will get put back on, forgot glows ( any reccomendations:confused:?) need to get new set. fired up and hope to heavans it works without the rattle! My job if I choose to accept it is to clean all the nasty for prep to install chase down parts like the turbo to intake silicone coupling and oil return coupling. Maybe scope out a 97 cooling set up at a junkyard or fix those oil cooling lines if I can find some local for cash. I'll also Probably pull that exhaust down especially now I can get at the top of it, makes me less afraid to break it lol and gander at the tourque converter bolts. I do have pix i can post of tear down, cyl heads and block. if sombody wants a closer look but they are pretty high res, I can email them directly better.

Hoods down blocks covered in pb blaster to keep the rusting down and all tools accounted for except the 15mm deep 3/8" which will get swapped at next oppertunity.

Anything I can do while i'm waiting for machine shop report? Measurements I can provide, if i can? any pix for folks lemme know? I was hoping to see the jacked up valve and screah ah haaaaa and get on with it. now i'm in limbo, will we get it all back to gether and clackity clatter some more
that would suuuuuuuuck!

regards mark!

[emtmark]

the heads were delivered today this morning but because its a one man shop I will have to wait until tomorrow to find anything out. Posting this more or less to feel like i've done somthing.
Injectors have been ruled out, Lifters have not, valve has not yet, springs have not yet, bottom end or piston slap not yet. I really hope its in the head and I can start putting things back together :(
Cheered up when I found out the machine shop guy has quite a bit of experiance with the 6.2 n 6.5's. At least he will know what he is looking at!

[sctrailrider]

While things are apart, you should get started with the flex plate checking, now is the time to brake the bolt and get it fixed and check the flex plate and then you can remove that from your list.

[emtmark]

Report from the machinist is valves are worn, seats are worn, cracks between valves and couple cracks heading towards cooling passages.
Report on the turbo is its shot as well and has been hitting the inside of the housing which could be the ticking right there. We did listen with a stethescope (somthing I happen to have an abundance of) before the tear down and did not hear anything but whatever. there was a heat tab on the head looked clean n shiny I had high hopes. The cross hatching on the cyl walls makes me thing the block is pretty fresh as well but now I have my doubts about everything. :( shop quoted me 650 for the fixing, valve job, and refurb. Turbo (Ive seen prices from 250-1000$) is up in the air I've started looking around on ebay and saw a rebuild kit. Started looking into DIY stuff and if theres any damage to the vanes I guess you have to spin test it. Hell I don't even know which turbo I have, its not in front of me anyways. G-pop turbo service has spotty history on the audi forums from light googling.
I'm of a mindset to start from scratch and just get a long block and start moving everything over. My reasoning is that I will have a firm history of the engine and a starting point on the clock so to speak. I don't know how I'd feel if I just get the heads done, turbo on, injectors, lifters, etc put it all back together and then have it start clacking again. I'd crap a purple kitten. I feel real remorse with the trade. fleabay has remans for about 3k on the low end. Realistically I can swing about 1500$ are there any avenues that ya'll might know about for me to exploit?
I'm impact gunning the nut off tomorrow to look at the dang tourqe bolts couldn't be any worse lol

Dejectedly yours Mark

Cliff notes
injectors 250$, Lifters 180$, Heads quoted at 650$ and change, turbo quoted at 500$ unk if even with fixing all this the clattering will go away or If there is somthing else........Booooo my luck

[Burning Oil]

I have a perfectly good running 6.5L engine out of my 94 Suburban I'd sell for $1900 + shipping. Intake to oil pan, turbo.... I pulled it to install an Isuzu 4bd2 diesel.

[jhornsby3]

You know? I had a noise coming from the #8 cylinder. A ticking, odd rattle, bad exhaust leak sound that went away with throttle. Stopped by Robyns one day and we were talking. She reached her hand back behind the turbo and the noise stopped. :eek:Funny thing. That heat sheild was making that noise. Removed that back bolt and no more noise. :D

Now would that just suck to put all that money into this project just to find out............Oh *&%^%#$#^&^%$&( !!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

Been there done that. Thank god it was a push reel mower that cost me 10 buck at a garge sale.:p

From experiance. It's best to not have experianced diesel techs look at your 6.x GM pick up and tell you something is wrong. It will cost you more money than you have everytime they do. And they will always be wrong. Been there done that and have a t shirt and thong panties to match to prove it.

So long and thanks for the fishes.:D

[emtmark]

Yeah the turbo heat shields were the first place I looked I pulled them all off and ran it, still rattled good thought though.