High-Flow Injectors finally installed!

[Big Red Suburban]

I finally got my high-flow injectors installed yesterday smile.gif I decided to replace them without removing the turbo, and my arms from my elbows to my finger tips are paying for it! It took me about 2 hours to do the drivers side and roughly 8 hours to do the passenger side. The heat shields and fuel return line clips are the worst part of the whole job :mad:

However, the end result is great :D Reading my calibrated seat of the pants meter, the power department has improved :D It also seems to idle smooth much quicker after a cold start, where before it would rattle and smoke longer.

I'll report back how much of a power increase I think their worth after I have thoroughly tested them ;)

[moose1]

I have a little gray smoke at start up and then some white smoke, then it clears up. I have been considering replacing both the injectors and the glow plugs. Why does it take so long to do the injectors? I have about 160,000 miles and both are original.


95 td 2500 ext cab 4x4

[Shad]

I am thinking the same... I have 145k on the stock ones and she smokes more as the mornigs cool off. Someone told me the injector can leak overnight and cause hard starts with smoke. Who sells the best rebuilds or stock type?

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
When I replaced mine it was like night and day. However, my old ones had about 130k miles one them. It would be nice to start fresh and replace with stock, drive it awhile and then replace with the high-pops to see what the difference is. Any vollunteers to fund that study? :D tongue.gif
Anyways, I got my injectors from JK, I think he also sells factory rebuilds. Customer service is OUTSTANDING.
If I was doing it again I would DEFINENTLY remove the turbo. Also start with the pass side back one and go forward. This would make it HARDEST to easiest. The # 4 6 and 8 are BAD. I made a special socket and had just about all my tools out hanging on the floor trying to get those three. Getting them torqued to the proper ft-lbs is tough with the turbo in place. The heat shields are a NIGHTMARE!
Get the push on return line kit as the little hose clamps are a pain. :mad: Replace your glowplugs while you are in there. If you use any never-seeze on anything that is torqued then remember to adjust your values for the lubricity.
Make sure you use NEW copper washers on the injectors. Both of the times that I've done it I never had to bleed any lines, but maybe I'm just lucky.
Have fun!
L8r
Conley Janssen

[john8662]

I now am a member of the "change your injectors" club. I just got mine replaced on my 95 K2500 6.5TD. I'll agree too, the heat shields are a pain, really just the one right next to the injection lines. The one on the top of the turbo is easy. I replaced my fuel lines on the turbo side with the push on return lines. I re-used the return lines on the drivers side, because I can replaced them later if needed (I can at least get to them). Its really hard getting a torque wrench in there, but I went to the extra effort to torque everything. Just replacing the injectors isn't any warrant to bleed the system. It will fire on the second long cranking. I'll know if it was worth it when I get my exhaust on, I cranked it up with just the downpipe on, LOUD!! but sounds like a big block gasser with a whistle. My injectors had 108k miles.

One question though, is there a gasket for the oil drain from turbo should I want to remove the turbo for better access?

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
There is a gasket. It was really stuck on mine and I had to use my di-grinder to remove it. you might want to replace the rubber hose that connects the oil return to the block. My truck had 140k on it and that hose looked pretty shot. I replaced it with Goodyear Highmiler blue and SS clamps. Also if you remove the turbo make sure to prime the unit with oil before you crank it back up. Also be carefull on the down pipe T-bolt clamp as they are SS and like to gall and strip.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley