to prime or not to prime?

[jonflies]

Received the Stud girdle kit for my 6.2 and installed it, along with a rear main seal (see other post about that) and a new oil pump. I used the Right Stuff as everyone recommended and haven't seen a drop of oil since start up.
I had ordered the oil pump priming shaft and had intended to use it, but during the assembly process I couldn't figure out how I was going to verify that the plastic piece would be pushed on correctly. In the end I opted not to prime, and just cranked the engine without a glow cycle (this truck will not start without one, first time of the day) for about ten seconds. My logic was, since this was not a fresh build there was still oil in the various passageways and a little left on the bearings. Plus with so many miles, it was not as tight as a fresh build.

By the way, I woke up several times during the night, questioning the torque specs on the girdle kit, as they are about half that required in the shop manual. Since someone else installed the kit in my 6.5 and it is still running after 100K, I have to assume I didn't misread the instructions and everything will be alright.

Anyone have similar thoughts?

[ginger743]

I would prime if at all possible.

Heck I even fill the new filter with oil when I change oil.


Jerry

[john8662]

5/16 6-pont socket, some extensions, tape (to not lose your sockets and extensions) and an adapter for your drill to go to the extension. You can prime the oil pump using the drive shaft that's already in the hole.

Not always necessary.

On a new engine. yeah.

Used engine, only if the one down below won't prime quickly on first start, or within a reasonable amount of time.

Did a similar scenario on my 82 low rider 6.2. Used engine, new oil pump. Primed the fuel system (new injection pump) which should have given plenty of opportunity for the oil pump to prime too (lots of cranking) with no starting. when I finally got to the starting part. engine fired up, no oil pressure, let it run for 30 nervous seconds, no oil pressure.

Had to prime the pump to get it to work (it happens, not really common though) where it won't self prime with engine speed. Spun it over with a drill, finally primed, started engine 60psi oil pressure as normal.

I've had to do a couple of these like this...

If yours came up with oil pressure when you started it, good deal.

On the girdle..

The fasteners use Moly lube, which is slicker than regular oil, requiring less torque to get the required fastener stretch. So, it's not the 100 Ft. Lbs you see with oil in the book for stock bolts. U did use the Moly lube rite?

[bshull]

Somewhere I thought I read about removing the glow plugs and cranking the engine over (i assume you would also want to disable fuel as to not make a mess or a possible hydro-lock when the glows were put back in) with the starter. The theory was with no compression you would not put as much wear on the bearings until the oil worked it's way around the engine. when you get oil pressure on the gauge, install the glows and go.

Brian

[phantom309]

Somewhere I thought I read about removing the glow plugs and cranking the engine over (i assume you would also want to disable fuel as to not make a mess or a possible hydro-lock when the glows were put back in) with the starter. The theory was with no compression you would not put as much wear on the bearings until the oil worked it's way around the engine. when you get oil pressure on the gauge, install the glows and go.

Brian

This method works pretty good,.just pull the ecm fuse for drive by wire pumps,. unclip the power wire for manual pumps,.i prime the fuel system this way if i,ve had the heads off etc,.
It won't hydro lock,. the compression puffs the fuel out,.

Nick

[argo]

I second that. I am always afraid of the pump driveshaft falling into the oil pan, so I would disable fuel, pull the glow plugs, and crank until I got pressure on the oil gauge. If you do go the drill and primer shaft route, be sure that you don't sprain (or break) your wrist when the pump pressurizes and the drill suddenly twists in your hand.

[Robyn]

The only real way to prime one of these engines is to take an OLD 6.2 vacuum pump/oil pump drive and modify it.

Remove the vacuum pod, then dig into the upper end of the drive unit and expose the shaft.

Tack weld a nut onto the shaft end to allow a socket to fit.

Remove the teeth from the drive gear. Either grind them off or do it in a lathe.

The Oil Pump Drive has an area at the bottom the has two ridges around the thing with a groove in between. This groove is what channels oil into the lifter gallery.

Without this installed, all the oil simply falls to the pan and never enters the engine passages going to any of the bearings.

Now

The looking at the modified pump drive, in the little groove at the bottom is a tiny hole, this hole sends oil up into the shaft bearings on the thing.

For priming purposes, peen that little hole shut with a punch and hammer.

If you dont, oil will run out the top (after you modify the thing) and make a mess.

Spinning the oil pump with an extension and such will only prime the pump, cooler and filter, but not the engine, which is where you really want the oil anyway.

Missy

[jonflies]

Wow, after reading John's post, I regret not putting in a gauge. The idiot light didn't come on and I've been driving it for a week, so I guess it passed the test.

I would warn everyone to look carefully at the box that the stud girdle comes in, an perhaps the invoice that came with the kit to determine the stud size. There's one small sticker on the box. Don't be fooled by "injector box" printed on the bottom or the generic description on the top.