Dino or Synthetic Oil in my 2009

[bobt]

I know the issue of dino vs synthetic has been addressed before, but in searching I can't find the answer to my specific question. I put about 5,000 miles a year on the truck carrying a 4,000# camper and towing a Jeep Wrangler. The truck has 16,000 miles right now. I've been running Delo 400 and changing it twice a year which means I put about 2500 on an oil change. It doesn't use any oil between changes. I know I don't need to do it this often. The situation is this. If I stick with the dino, I could change it once a year at about 5,000 miles. If I go to synthetic oil, based on what I read here, I could go 10,000 to 15,000 miles between oil changes; however, in my case that would be changing the oil every two to three years. I don't like the thoughts of that oil sitting in there for two or three years between changes. Seems to me, that the impurities might start working on the internals if it stayed in there that long. So the two questions are:
1) Would it be acceptable (do no harm) to keep the synthetic in the truck for two to three years?

2) Would the additional cost of synthetic over the dino be worthwhile if I changed it once a year?

Bob

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Personally I would stay with the dino oil and change it once a year. I would not switch to syn and change it every three years. I also don't think I would spend the extra money on syn, let it sit except for 5000 miles per year then switch it out.

It might make a difference if you lived in an area with extreme cold weather conditions. My 2 cents worth.

[bobt]

Thanks Jeff. That's my thinking right now.
Bob

[hapaschold]

imo, stick with dino, but change every 6 months. for me that s cheap insurance against potential corrosion issues........... especially if your going to keep the truck till the wheels fall off....

[Mark Rinker]

Based on your dry location listed (Tucson, AZ) I would use Mobil Delvac 1300 15/40 convential, changing it every 12-18 months or 7500 miles, whichever comes first.

Your location is not condusive to the formation of condensation inside your engine, which leads to acids suspended in the oil. As long as the engine is being run often, and warmed up completely on most trips, I see no need to be changing oil as often as you have been, unless it just makes you feel good.

My time between change intervals is short (every month to six weeks at 10K miles) but the stress I put on the oil is much higher (towing 12K-14K 60%-80% of the miles, empty 3K# trailer all of the miles) and my experience with this same oil has been very good, with minimal to zero adding between changes.

[DmaxMaverick]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned........

Down time. If you are leaving it for extended periods, it changes the picture considerably. If you continue to use conventional oil, it should be started and ran long enough to bring it up to operating temp, every 2-4 weeks. Driving it a bit would be better. The engine isn't the only oil-lubed part of the truck, and it will minimize battery issues. Synthetic oil will have a much greater residual lube quality. When an engine is shut off, the oil begins to drain down (and continues until it's gone, or the next start), and evacuate the friction surfaces. Longer off times means less lube oil remaining for that next start, and a longer run time before it's replaced and up to full pressure. This can be offset with a pre-lube system, but these are usually impractical and/or cost prohibitive in most cases.

If it's left sitting for more than a month, consider that "storage", and treat it accordingly. In this case, battery care, lube oil, and other conditions must be considered.

Dino oil shouldn't be left, especially uncirculated/unheated for extended periods, typically 6 months. Synthetic oil can remain idle indefinitely, but typically 2-3 years is considered long enough to make even the most devout synthetic lube advocate feel the need for a change. For this comparison, synthetic doesn't necessarily mean synthetic. Many oils labeled synthetic are not synthetic, in this context. True synthetics (Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil) decompose at a much lower rate, are much more tolerant of contaminants and oxidation, and will have a much greater residual lubrication quality (static film) than their conventional counter parts. Sudo-synthetics (Rotella, Castrol, Penzoil) are "converted" dino oil (hydro-cracked conventional oil, only labeled "synthetic" due to legal definitions), and should not be considered for the same duty. Their actual long term quality probably falls somewhere in between that of full synthetic and conventional. "Blends" should not be considered any better than their weakest component, which is conventional oil.

For the same reasons, ATF shouldn't be left out of the discussion. Your 2009 was factory filled with, and should be serviced with Dexron-VI, which is synthetic.

The rear diff is serviced with full synthetic lube oil. The front, however, is/was not (4x4, except in the extreme northern climates).


My recommendation:

10K miles over 2 years is at the maximum service interval according to time, but at/near the interval for mileage. Forget the miles, and arrange your service interval according to time. Use full synthetic lubes, bumper to bumper, and change every 2 years. Or, use conventional lubes, run/drive every 1-2 weeks at most, and service every 6 months. Always store with a full tank of fuel, and use a quality additive with water/bio control. Use a battery maintenance strategy, in any case.

While geographic location can be considered, AZ does tend to be much "dryer" than other climates, but dry air is no better than moist air, all things considered. There will be a considerably higher ultra-fine silica content (small particles that pass the air filter). Therefore, location shouldn't be considered better/worse in all but extreme environments or conditions.

[bobt]

Thanks to all for the opinions and advice. I don't let it set idle for long periods of time such as up to six months, but I haven't been driving it as much as I should, mainly because my Jeep is parked behind it and I have to move the Jeep every time I want to drive the truck. I could park the Jeep elsewhere, but behind the truck is the best place. My routine has been to change the oil in late fall. Then in late May, I drive to Pennsylvania (2200 miles) where it sits for two months while at parent's home. I change it there before returning to AZ. Drive it another 600 -800 miles camping/hunting, then I change it again late fall. I haven't driven it since I took the camper off in early November, so I need to get it going. I do intend to drive it more and I will attempt to do so at least every couple of weeks. I think I will stick with the conventional engine oil and change it either every six months or at least no longer than a year (I haven't made my mind up on that yet). $$ are not an issue for me regarding six months or a year when using the dino.
Thanks again to all.
Bob

[Kennedy]

Sounds like you have the changing routine down pat. Trying to get that across to my brother is tough. He changes Ma's snowblower oil cold in fall/winter just before season starts. I've been trying to get it across to him that all the corosive elements in the used oil need to be evacuated before it gets put away. He also runs the fuel out which is something my Dad always did. Never any Sta-Bil in the gas. Well this year that is going to change. No more Murray/Tecumseh this year. I picked her up a Honda and at 3x the cost it's easily 10x the machine. Such a nice machine that I waxed it twice and also sprayed Amsoil MP HD in all the seams as a rust proofing.

I prefer a synthetic for my on road stuff, BUT I get plenty of miles and can run extended drains. For HP and infrequent use (my 2002) I've gone to Cenpeco 20w50 Racing which I believe is also available in a 15w40. I find that the petroleum oils remain on the parts longer than a synthetic and that trying to work on parts with this oil on them is pretty tough.

[bobt]

I think I've convinced myself (with advice from you all) to stick with the dino and change it twice a year. Dino oil and a Baldwin 1441 filter twice a year won't break the bank. Thanks to all for the input.

John, that new snow blower sounds like my dad's new John Deer yard tractor last summer-- too pretty to use. My father-in-law was the quintessential perfectionist when it came to caring for his vehicles and tools, probably because he had to work hard to get them. He would wash his John Deer after every mowing and wax it about every other. He had a Class C motor home that he also washed and waxed after every use, plus he covered everything but his cars (they were garaged) when he wasn't using them. People would line up to buy his used vehicles or equipment because it was as good or better than when new.
Bob